My Coin Collection

Around twenty years ago, I bought this coin from a street trader at the time of the excavation of the Roman cemetery in Spitalfields. In 1576, John Stow wrote about the Roman coins that were dug up here in Spitalfields and I suspect mine came from the same source. A visit to the British Museum confirmed that the coin had been minted in London and the piercing was done in the Roman era when it was the custom to wear coins as amulets. So somebody wore this coin in London all those centuries ago and today I wear it on a string around my neck to give me a sense of perspective.
As you can see, my collection has grown as I have discovered that coin collectors are eager to dispose of pierced coins at low prices and I have taken on the responsibility of wearing them on behalf of their previous owners. It was only when the string broke in Princelet St one dark night in the rain and I found myself scrabbling in the gutter to retrieve them all that I realised how much they meant to me.
Coin of the Emperor Arcadius minted in London
Figure of Minerva upon the reverse
Silver sixpence minted at the Tower of London, 1569
Head of Queen Elizabeth and Tudor rose
Silver sixpence minted at the Tower of London, 1602
Head of Elizabeth
Silver sixpence, 1676
Head of Charles II
Farthing, 1749
Head of George II
Silver sixpence, 1758
Head of George II
Young Queen Victoria
Head of Queen Victoria
Silver sixpence, 1896
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Colin Thubron Remembers Gillian Tindall
This is the eulogy for writer and historian Gillian Tindall by travel writer Colin Thubron which he read at her memorial gathering held at Cecil Sharp House in Regent’s Park on Friday last. Gillian died aged eighty-seven on 1st October and we are proud to have published her final work Journal of a Man Unknown. She was a Contributing Writer to Spitalfields Life for many years.

Gillian Tindall used to say with some amusement that her literary life was split into different regions. Whereas in England she was known for her urban studies such as The Fields Beneath or The House by the Thames, in France she was recognised as the author of Celestine, and in India as the writer of Bombay: City of Gold. In fact her Indian obituary recorded that ‘she had a huge impact on Indian readers and writers, and strongly influenced Mumbai’s urban heritage movement.’ Whereas a recent article in the journal of the Royal Institute of British Architects writes that her work on London ‘helped forge a way of seeing cities and places that is integral to most architects’ education’.
While hallmark interests run through all Gillian’s work, its range across genres is extraordinary. Beside those books of so-called micro-history for which she is celebrated, she wrote nine distinguished novels – Fly Away Home won the Somerset Maugham Award – three collections of short stories, biographies of George Gissing and of Wenceslaus Holler, (whose etchings are a crucial guide to seventeenth century London), an appreciation of Rosamund Lehmann, radio plays, a study of London’s future Elizabeth Line, and a poignant reflection, partly autobiographical, on the memories evoked by leftover objects: The Pulse Glass, and the Beat of Other Hearts.
She also wrote an affecting survey called Countries of the Mind: the Meaning of Place to Writers. And place – the observation of a street, a house, even of chance artefacts – was the wellspring of her non-fiction. ‘Houses and barns,’ she wrote, ‘gate posts, hedgerows, field slopes and the lie of paths, persist and persist, even when people that created them are earth themselves’. In effect cities and buildings become, in her work, a palimpsest, in which the past lingers beneath the surface of things, and continues to shape them.
We think not only of The Fields Beneath but of The House by the Thames, which breathes life into forgotten individuals, from traders in coal and iron to a motley middle class, over more than four centuries. Of Three Houses, Many Lives, with their changing medley of uses: a girls’ boarding school, a vicarage, a lorry drivers’ drinking club; and of her Footsteps in Paris which illuminates the Latin Quarter through six past, transient inhabitants, including, obliquely, herself.
Memory, in Gillian’s work, seems almost to be embodied in the buildings and objects that elicit it. In her novels, too, the past presses up beneath the present, but here as a corrective to the illusions or evasions of the living. In her novel Spirit Weddings the past reasserts itself with shocking revelations. The protagonists of two other novels, Give Them all my Love and To the City become overwhelmed by memories that fracture their lives. And Gillian’s sixth novel Looking Forword might be read as a reflection on memory itself, and on loss.
France, in whose heartland in the Indre she and her husband bought a village house, was an abiding love. ‘In my teens,’ she wrote, ‘my personal England seemed a dark, ramshackle, threatening place… Lacking any internalised Paradise derived from my actual childhood, I have apparently worked in a back-to-front manner from my youthful attachment to French urban life and culture, accreting round myself the compost of an older France….In central France, I have found the mythic house of childhood simplicity.’
It was here, in an abandoned home near her own, that she came by chance on a sheaf of letters addressed in the mid-nineteenth century by five different suitors to the local innkeeper’s daughter, and from which, with Gillian’s intimate knowledge of French rural history, she was able to resurrect a world on the brink of change in her celebrated Celestine. ‘A narrative of enigmatic beauty,’ wrote the poet W.S.Merwin in the New York Times, ‘a glimpse of time and mortality.’
It was typical of Gillian that the lives she resurrected were not those of the so-called great but of the overlooked and unremembered, who seem, in her work, to stand in for the great mass of those forgotten, who have nevertheless shaped our own world. For instance, her The Journey of Martin Nadaud, based on unpublished papers, traces the career of a nineteenth-century French stone mason. Her last novel, published earlier this month, is the vividly imagined life-story of a Sussex-born ironmonger, Journal of a Man Unknown. In The Pulse Glass she remarks that in the recreating of family trees those who don’t procreate are sidelined, and she affectionately resurrects, from a wide and convoluted family history, a distant relative, a benign Aunt Bess, who died almost two centuries ago.
Gillian’s research was meticulous, excited and focused, and crucially productive of the telling detail and anecdote. Besides the regular volumes of history and sociology, the archives of her choice were multiple: town and parish records, local newspapers, chance letters, the memories of the old. ‘To sit all day in a newspaper library’ she wrote, ‘with a succession of leather-bound broadsheet volumes before you, turning pages through the weeks, months and years, is to feel both the copious existence of daily life and its transience…. You could write a complete social history of the twentieth century simply out of the pages of the Hornsey Journal’.
When she and her husband had finally to leave their beloved house in France, she compiled, in French, a history of its previous owners – poor farmers, for the most part – which she was able to give to people in parting. ‘Both I and those who received my account’, she wrote, ‘were pleased that another handful of such people had been brought back from the quiet darkness of forgetting.’
Gillian’s was a richly distinctive mind and voice, and in her conviction that the death of the past impoverishes the present, she created books that will surely stand the test of time.
But typically she was conscious of the vulnerability of all communication. ‘No one has yet invented a better storage and retrieval system than the book,’ she wrote. ‘Our current digital methods of record are, by comparison, laughably ephemeral, vulnerable to time, error and the obsolescence of technology…. even now wiping out vast potential areas of paper record that have been the staple of research for centuries. Time will show,’ she continued, ‘whether this change is just another version of the casually brutal but necessary wastage and winnowing that have always occurred….’ But ‘I don’t somehow think that in thirteen centuries’ time some future archivist will be lovingly cradling a preserved hard disc in his hand and produce the means to decode its secrets.’
But we may be confident that, in whatever form it takes, Gillian’s own work, with its rare combination of scholarly rigour and imaginative sympathy, will endure into the uncertain future.

Click here to order a copy of Journal of a Man Unknown

Gustave Doré’s East End

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I have been thinking about Gustave Doré lately, as the freezing miasma of winter descends upon the city and I struggle to negotiate the excited crowds thronging in the busy streets. Gazing upon the teeming masses in the flickering half-light outside Liverpool St Station, I see his world where deep shadows recede into infinite gloom and I succumb to its terrible beauty.
Doré signed a contract to spend three months in London each year for five years and the completed book of one hundred and eighty engravings with text by Blanchard Jerrold was published in 1872, entitled London – A Pilgrimage. Although he illustrated life in the West End and as well as in the East End, it is Doré’s images of the East End that have always drawn the most attention with their overwhelming sense of diabolic horror and epic drama, in which his figures drift like spectres coalesced from the ether.
In Bishopsgate
In Wentworth St, Spitalfields
Riverside St
In Bluegate Fields
A City Thoroughfare
Inside the Docks
In Houndsditch
Turn Him Out, Ratcliff
Warehousing in the City
Billingsgate Early Morning
Off Billingsgate
Refuge – Applying For Admittance
Brewer’s Men
Hay Boats On The Thames
Images courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
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Charles W Cushman’s London

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American Photographer Charles Weaver Cushman (1896-1972) visited London only a couple of times and yet, alongside shots of landmarks such as Big Ben & Trafalgar Sq, he recorded these rare and unexpected images of markets and street vendors in Kodachrome. He bequeathed over 14,000 of his images to Indiana University, where the entire range of his work may be explored in the Charles W. Cushman Photograph Collection.

Aldgate huckster, April 30th 1961

Bell Lane, April 30th 1961

Petticoat Lane, April 30th 1961

Petticoat Lane, April 30th 1961

Petticoat Lane, April 30th 1961

New Goulston St, April 30th 1961

At St Botolph’s Bishopsgate, April 30th 1961

Liverpool St Station, June 26th 1960

Liverpool St Station, Sunday May 30th 1965

Liverpool St Station, Sunday May 30th 1965

Finsbury Sq, May 30th 1965

St Giles Cripplegate, June 26th 1960

Moorgate, April 30th 1961

Sunday morning on London Bridge, June 26th 1960

Gas lamp cleaners London Bridge, May 29th 1965

Looking east from London Bridge, May 29th 1965

Smithfield Market, May 2nd 1961

Leather Lane, April 28th 1961

Leather Lane, April 28th 1961

Leather Lane, April 28th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Covent Garden, June 26th 1961

Buskers, Leicester Sq, May 14th 1961

St. Martin in the Fields, Trafalgar Sq, June 19th 1960
Photographs copyright © The Trustees of Indiana University
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George Cruikshank’s London In Winter

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As the temperatures plunge this week, there will be no denying that winter has its grip upon London – which offers the ideal premise to look back at winters long ago in the capital, as witnessed by George Cruikshank in the LONDON ALMANAC published between 1835 & 1838 (Click on any of these images to enlarge)
Everybody freezes
Penny for the guy!
St Cecilia’s Day
Lord Mayor’s Show
Ice skating on the Serpentine
Christmas Eve
Christmas Ball
Christmas Dinner
Frost Fair on the Thames
January – New Year’s bills arrive
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At Stationers’ Hall

Meet me on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral at Christmas for a walking tour of storytelling and sightseeing through the alleys and byways of the Square Mile to London Bridge in search of the wonders and wickedness of the City of London. CLICK HERE TO BOOK

‘The Word of the Lord Endures Forever’
Next time you walk up Ludgate Hill towards St Paul’s, turn left down the narrow passage just beyond the church of St Martin Within Ludgate and you will find yourself in a quiet courtyard where Stationers’ Hall has stood since the sixteen-seventies.
For centuries, this whole district was the heart of the printing and publishing, with publishers lining Ludgate Hill, St Paul’s Churchyard and Paternoster Row, while newspapers operated from Fleet St. Today, only Stationers’ Hall and St Bride Printing Library, down behind Ludgate Circus, remain as evidence of this lost endeavour that once flourished here.
Yet the Stationers’ Company was founded in 1403, predating printing. At first it was a guild of scriveners, illuminators, bookbinders, booksellers and suppliers of parchment, ink and paper. Even the term ‘stationer’ originates here with the stalls in St Paul’s Churchyard where they traded, which were immovable – in other words, ‘stationary’ stalls selling ‘stationery.’
No-one whose life is bound up with writing and words can fail to be touched by a visit to Stationers’ Hall. From 1557, when Mary Tudor granted the Stationers their Charter and for the next three hundred years, members had the monopoly upon publishing and once one member had published a text no-one else could publish it, thus the phrase ‘Entered at Stationers’ Hall’ became a guarantee of copyright.
Built in the decade following the Fire of London, the Great Hall was panelled by Stephen College ‘the protestant joiner’ at price of £300 in 1674. In spite of damage in the London Blitz and extensive alterations to other buildings, this central space retains its integrity as an historic interior. At one end, an ornate Victorian window shows William Caxton presenting his printing to Edward IV while an intricate and darkly detailed wooden Restoration screen faces it from the other. Wooden cases display ancient plate, colourful banners hang overhead, ranks of serried crests line the walls, stained glass panels of Shakespeare and Tyndale filter daylight while – all around – books are to be spied, carved into the architectural design.
A hidden enclave cloistered from the hubbub of the modern City, where illustrious portraits of former gentlemen publishers – including Samuel Richardson – peer down silently at you from the walls, Stationers’ Hall quietly overwhelms you with the history and origins of print in London through six centuries.


The Stock Room

The Stock Room c. 1910




The Stock Room door, c.1910

Panel of Stationers that became Lord Mayor includes JJ Baddeley, 1921

The Great Hall, where Purcell’s Hymn to St Cecilia was first performed in 1692

The Great Hall c. 1910





Stained glass window of 1888 showing Caxton presenting his printing to Edward IV

The vestibule to Great Hall

The Stationers’ Garden

The Court Room with a painting by Benjamin West

Looking out from the Court Room to the garden with the Master’s chair on the right

The Court Room

The Court Room, c 1910




Exterior of Stationer’s Hall, c. 1910


Archive photographs courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
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The Nights Of Old London

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The temperature is plunging and I can feel the velvet darkness falling upon London. As dusk gathers in the ancient churches and the dusty old museums in the late afternoon, the distinction between past and present becomes almost permeable at this time of year. Then, once the daylight fades and the streetlights flicker into life, I feel the desire to go walking out in search of the dark nights of old London.
Examining hundreds of glass plates – many more than a century old – once used by the London & Middlesex Archaeological Society for magic lantern shows at the Bishopsgate Institute, I am in thrall to these images of night long ago in London. They set my imagination racing with nocturnal visions of the gloom and the glamour of our city in darkness, where mist hangs in the air eternally, casting an aura round each lamp, where the full moon is always breaking through the clouds and where the recent downpour glistens upon every pavement – where old London has become an apparition that coalesced out of the fog.
Somewhere out there, they are loading the mail onto trains, and the presses are rolling in Fleet St, and the lorries are setting out with the early editions, and the barrows are rolling into Spitalfields and Covent Garden, and the Billingsgate porters are running helter-skelter down St Mary at Hill with crates of fish on their heads, and the horns are blaring along the river as Tower Bridge opens in the moonlight to admit another cargo vessel into the crowded pool of London. Meanwhile, across the empty city, Londoners slumber and dream while footsteps of lonely policemen on the beat echo in the dark deserted streets.
Glass slides courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
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