Skip to content

Tony Bock on the Railway

March 10, 2013
by the gentle author

A mischievous trainspotter changes the departure time at Liverpool St Station

“I have always liked railway stations, a focal point of the community – the start and finish of a journey,” Photographer Tony Bock admitted to me, introducing these elegant pictures which are published here for the first time today. “Often the journey was a daily chore, but sometimes it was an occasion,” he added, in appreciation of the innate drama of rail travel.

Tony’s railway photographs date from the years between 1973 and 1978, when he  was living in the East End and worked on the East London Advertiser, before he left to take took a job on the Toronto Star, pursuing a career as a photojournalist there through four decades.

“Although plenty has been written about the architecture of railways and the industrial ‘cathedrals’ – from the perspective of the twenty-first century, it is easy to forget the great change the railway brought when it first arrived in the mid-nineteeth century. Liverpool St Station was opened in 1874 and survived largely unchanged into the nineteen seventies.

So, in 1977, when proposals to redevelop the station were suggested, I decided to spend some time there, documenting the life of the station with its astonishing brick and iron architecture. I loved the cleaners, taking a break, and the young lad taking it upon himself to reschedule the next train – ‘Not This Train’!  Meanwhile, the evening commuters heading home looked as if they were being drawn by a mysterious force.

Next door to Liverpool St was Broad St Station, only used for commuter trains from North London then and already it was looking very neglected. Only a few years later, it closed when Liverpool St was redeveloped.

Over in Stratford, the rail sheds dated back to the days when the Great Eastern Railway serviced locomotives there. Surprisingly, British Rail were still using some of the sheds in 1977, maintaining locomotives amongst the rubble that eventually became the site of the Olympic Park.

Finally, from the very earliest days of railways, I found three posters on the wall in the London Dock, Wapping.  The one in the centre is from the Great Northern Railway, dated 1849, the other two from the North Union Railway Company, dated 1836, and it is still possible to read that one hundred and twelve pounds or ten cubic feet would be carried for three shillings according to the Rates, Tolls and Duties. The North Union operated in Lancashire and only lasted until 1846.  How did these posters survive, they were likely one hundred and thirty years old. I wonder if anyone was able to salvage them?

I suppose there is an irony that I am writing this today in my home which is a village railway station built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1904.  The building now sits in woods, since the local branchline is long gone. Yet any station – grand or modest – will always carry a significance for the community they are part of.”

Farewells at  LIverpool St

Ticket collecting at Liverpool St

Cleaners, taking a break, at Liverpool St.

Commuters at Broad St Station.

Waiting for a train at Victoria Station

Wartime sign in the cellar of Broad St Station, demolished in 1986.

Stratford Railway works, now engulfed beneath the Olympic site

Repair sheds at Stratford

Engine sheds at Stratford

Railway posters dating from 1836 in London Dock, Wapping

Photographs copyright © Tony Bock

You may like to see these other photographs by Tony Bock

Tony Bock, Photographer

Tony Bock at Watney Market

Tony Bock on the Thames

More Spires of City Churches

March 9, 2013
by the gentle author

St Lawrence Jewry, Gresham St

In January, I waited so long for a clear day to take pictures of spires in the City of London that when we were blessed with another one last week, I could not resist going back to take more photographs. Such has been my preoccupation that, in future, I shall always be inclined now to think of clear days in early spring as “ideal weather to photograph church spires in the City.”

Yet there were other obstacles beyond the meteorological that I had to contend with in my quest for spires, not just delivery vans parked in the wrong places and people standing in front of churches making long mobile phone calls, but the over-zealous guard who challenged my motives as I stood with my camera upon the public footpath, suspiciously implying I might have sinister intent in photographing church spires – which could have grave implications for national security. “You realise this is the City of London,” he informed me in explanation of his impertinence, as if I could be unaware.

Fortunately, it is in the nature of photographing church spires that I had no choice but to lift up my eyes above these trifles of life and I was rewarded for my tenacity in the pursuit with all the wonders that you see here. In Rome or any other European capital, such a close gathering of  architectural masterpieces would be venerated among the finest treasures of the city. In London, our overfamiliarity with these epic churches means they have become invisible and hardly anyone looks at them. Commonly, the ancient spires are overshadowed by the modern buildings which surround them today, yet I found – in many cases – that the act of focusing attention upon these under-appreciated edifices revealed them newly to my eyes.

St Mary Le Bow, Cheapside

St Margaret’s, Lothbury

St Vedast, Foster Lane

Christchurch Greyfriars, Newgate St

Christchurch Greyfriars, Newgate St

St Mary Le Bow, Cheapside

St Mary Le Bow, Cheapside

St Stephen, Walbrook

Whittington’s Almshouses, College Hill

St James, Garlickhythe

St Michael Paternoster Royal, College Hill

1 & 2 Lawrence Pountney Hill – Built in 1703, these are the finest surviving merchants’ houses in the City.

Churchyard of St Laurence Pountney

St Magnus the Martyr, Lower Thames St

St Dunstan in the East, Idol Lane

All Hallows Staining, Mark Lane

St Botolph’s, Aldgate

You may also like to take a look at

Spires of City Churches

Nicholas Hawksmoor’s Churches

A View of Christ Church Spitalfields

In City Churchyards

Last Night at St John Bakery

March 8, 2013
by the gentle author

Heroic Baker & Pastry Chef Justin Piers Gellatly places his last loaf of bread into the oven

Three years ago, I spent a night in the bakery at St John, recounting the nocturnal activities of Justin Piers Gellatly and his fellow bakers, making the delicious bread which became so integral to the success of St John that they named their Spitalfields restaurant St John Bread & Wine. In those days, Justin used to take over the kitchen in Commercial St at night to do his baking, but as demand for his bread grew he moved to his own bakery under a railway arch in Druid St, south of the river, where production quadrupled as the bakers worked in shifts twenty-two hours a day, seven days a week.

At the same time, the word spread of Justin’s heroic prowess in the creation of eccles cakes, mince pies, hot cross buns and especially doughnuts, turning the railway arch into a popular destination on Saturday mornings as hundreds of hungry south Londoners converged at the bakery, intent upon carrying off trophies while they were still warm from the oven.

Yet, just as all good things must come to an end, Justin left the bakery last week. So I returned to share his last night among the ovens, recording the moment for posterity and celebrating his catalogue of achievement in baking over the last thirteen years at St John. You might think that such success would compromise Justin in some way, but what I discovered was that during the small hours he checked every single one of the thousand loaves he baked that night to ensure they met his approval and then he did all his own cleaning up too, carrying sacks of flour around and making up all the orders as well.

“It’s quite emotional tonight,” he admitted to me with a crooked smile when I arrived around ten to the seeming chaos of the steamy bakery, where Justin stood surrounded by hundreds of loaves proving. Further into the recesses of the arch, beneath the golden barrelled vault, Luka Mokliak was producing the vast quantities of dough required and at the far end Mariusz Korczak was making the cakes. The warm humid air was fragrant with the commingled aromas of sour dough, hot cross buns and doughnuts. “It doesn’t feel like it’s ending, it seems like I’ll be back tomorrow,” Justin declared over his shoulder, as he tossed flour onto a table of loaves and set to work furiously, scoring them and delivering them into the oven just as he removed others that were baked.

“Time goes so quickly here,” he admitted, running back and forth between the preparation of loaves to go into the oven and checking the progress of those already in each of the six ovens, “You blink and it’s time to go home – the night disappears.” I perched on a table, amazed at Justin’s stamina. “The longest shift I did was three days,” he confessed as he ran past, “I lived at St John, I slept on the flour sacks. I baked at night, slept for a few hours, did pastry during the day and baked again at night.”

Casting my eyes around the bakery at all the activity, I asked Justin how much of the output was his creation. “Everything,” he said, “the sweet side of it.”

“When I first started, there was not much baking going on at St John – only the eccles cake and I perfected that.” he recalled, “I was let loose, to be honest. My mother left me these cookbooks, handwritten by her, and  full of things she had learnt from her mother and others. Many of the things I created for St John, such as the mince pies and Christmas puddings, were her recipes.”

It made complete sense, since the wonder of Justin’s baking is that it is like superlative home baking without any of the compromises of commercial production. Watching Justin manage the process of baking a thousand loaves to perfection, I realised what a complex task it was to pull it off at this volume. Over the years, he perfected juggling all the variables, so that the loaves went not just into the oven but into his mind too and he held them there, paying attention to every mutable aspect, the seasonal qualities of the flour, even the effects of changing air pressure and moisture in the atmosphere. It was a virtuoso act of mental and physical dexterity all at once.

“I never set out to be a baker but I worked in a kitchen where there were bakers, so I came in on my day off to learn and I got hooked.” he told me, preparing the last batch of loaves to go into the oven, “One of the first things to get me was the sound the bread makes when it cools after it has come out of the oven – it’s the bread singing!”

The hours had flown away and a stack of a thousand loaves had grown between the ovens and the door. It was an epic night’s work for one man, a daily miracle of Biblical proportions. Justin worked placidly as he had done through all the years until the moment came to take out the last loaves and shut down the ovens. He lifted out the shovel of rye sourdough and tipped it down, so that the loaves fell into the basket with finality. “That’s the end of the show!” he said quietly, almost to himself and in disbelief at his own words. Yet you may be assured Justin leaves a team of bakers that he trained who will continue his work faithfully.

I learnt the catalyst for Justin’s departure is his wish to spend more time caring for his sister, who is unwell, but one day he means to come back to baking. “I’ve had some generous offers, but I want to do my own thing.” he confessed, “I want to do more doughnuts but always with bread , that’s my passion.”

Justin places  baguettes upon the ‘peal’ ready to go in the oven.

Scoring the loaves with a razor blade

Luka Mokliak makes the dough

Mariusz Korczak crosses the buns.

A moment of preoccupied calculation.

Luka & Justin make soda bread.

Mariusz waits for the doughnuts to fry.

Justin prepares to put his last loaves in the oven.

“That’s the end of the show!” – Justin’s last loaves come out of the oven.

You may like to read my other bakery stories

Night in the Bakery at St John

Justin Piers Gellatly, Head Baker & Pastry Chef

Five Hundred Eccles Cakes

The Bread, Cake & Biscuit Walk

and look back over my eulogies of Justin’s creations

Hot Cross Buns from St John

The First Mince Pies of the Season

Go Nuts for Doughnuts!

The Tart with the Heart of Custard

The Daily Loaf

Soerditch by Dant (Chapter Two)

March 7, 2013
by the gentle author

Please join me tonight from 6:30- 8:30pm at Eleven Spitalfields Gallery for the opening of Adam Dant‘s exhibition of cartoons SOERDITCH, Diary of a Neighbourhoodsatirising the culture of our dearly-beloved Shoreditch – comprising beautifully rendered views of the neighbourhood , captioned with clueless things overheard on the streets.

“No it’s not a brewery anymore, that must just be the drains … ”

“They say he buried a baby under all his churches … but it doesn’t seem to bother all the film stars that live here.”

“I’d offer to buy you a bagel but I spent my last tenner on that aniseed soap and a bit of coral.”

“Go back to work? Don’t be ridiculous, we haven’t tried the dessert wines let alone the calvadoses yet!”

“They were filming up here again yesterday, so far this week I’m in the background of a BT ad, a Ripper doc and a Jessie J. vid.”

“Oh, my nice hat pin fell out in the market last week, will you keep an eye out for it?”

“My Uncle Stan said he used to live round here.” … “Wow!  He must have been sooo cool.” … “Not really, he was a meths drinker.”

“We got rid of the old sign, this is a photo of the new neon one.” … “Nice!  What was there before?” … “Oh some nasty stone carving that said ‘1760’ or something.”

“No!  Not the halter neck dress, that one would clash with my robot tat …”

“We’ve got to get over to my stupid brother’s new cake shop quickly…before he spells ‘cakes’ wrong again”

“My word, this is some stinky alley, Kev! Were you thinking of ‘doin me’ or ‘doin me in’ ? ”

“Here, hold my handbag. I’m nipping up this scarey Victorian alley for a wee.”

.

Soerditch is the old name for Shoreditch, quoted by the historian John Stowe in his Survey of London 1598, as “so called more than four hundred yeares.” It means sewer ditch, in reference to the spring beside Shoreditch Church, once the source of the lost River Walbrook which flowed from there towards the City of London.

Drawing from a pair of unlikely inspirations, namely Giles‘ cartoons for the Daily Express and Hiroshige‘s ‘One Hundred Famous Views of Edo,’ Adam Dant pulls off an astonishing sleight of hand – simultaneously portraying the urban landscape of Shoreditch with spare lines and flat tones that evoke the woodcuts of Hiroshige, while also satirising the manners and mores of the people through witty social observations in the manner of Giles.

The exhibition runs at Eleven Spitalfields Gallery from 7th March – 26th April and all one hundred and twenty-five cartoons are published in an album with an introduction by Jarvis Cocker, produced in the style of Giles’ celebrated annuals and available to buy online from Spitalfields Life Shop.

.

Click here to buy your copy of SOERDITCH by DANT – Diary of a Neighbourhood (125 Views of Shoreditch) – while stocks last!

.

Adam Dant hides behind his assumed identity of “Dant.”

Cartoons copyright © Adam Dant

Adam Dant is represented by Hales Gallery

You may also like to see this earlier selection of cartoons by Dant

Soerditch by Dant (Chapter One)

Somali Portraits

March 6, 2013
by the gentle author

Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie has been working on a series of Somali portraits in recent months and we publish a first selection today, accompanied with testimonies dictated by the subjects.

Adan Jama Mohammed – Seaman

“I came to this country when I was twenty years old in 1958. Before than I was in Aden, working on a small passenger boat, but when I came here I was thirty years as a seaman and living in Middlesbrough. I started on 8th April 1959 as a merchant seaman, earning £21.50 a month. Until 1980 it was my job, then I worked on big container ships. We didn’t have much to do. I married in 1987 and I had a family in Middlesbrough, but we had to leave because they closed the docks and the factories. I had a house and a family, and a mortgage I couldn’t pay. The building society said if I didn’t pay £70 a month, they would take the house back. I had to sell the house at half price, and now my children are grown up and don’t want to know me. I live on my own in a flat at the Seamen’s Mission in West Ferry Rd, Isle of Dogs, and my family live on the other side of London. I don’t like living here in this city, there’s too many people – but you can’t help it, if you don’t have a choice. I do have some friends at the Mission. It was a hard life as a seaman.”

Ahmed Hassan Sulieman – Seaman

“I was born in Aden, when I was a schoolboy everyone over sixteen joined the army. My father was in the First World War and he was killed fighting for the British in Egypt in 1918, when I was four. So my brother and I, we wanted to join the army and take revenge on the people who killed him. All my family were in the army. All the army, they treated us very good – white and black together, no colour bar.

In 1944, I was shot in the leg while I was on a British ship that was sunk by two German U-boats off Durban. We were at sea on a raft for two days and two nights before we were marooned on land without food. I went inland and walked for six days to search for help before the British found us and took us to Durban, and when we recovered they sent us back to fight. In Egypt, four thousand people were being killed a day at that time.

I was also in Germany and Japan, the kamikaze pilots crashed into our ship.  It was a very bad war, but we wanted to win – losing was nothing. I am brave because I wanted to beat the Germans and I fought for myself, I didn’t want to be captured. I was happy when we won the war and I’m happy that I’m still alive. I had four medals but I lost two recently, I never asked for them.

At the end of the war, they gave us a passport and a suit of clothes, and they brought us here to the Seamen’s Mission where I live today. So we were quite happy. I’ve been here seventy years. They said you are fit to work and I joined the Merchant Navy. I got £200 a month, before that I only got £24 a month and I had to shovel coal but the food was free. I worked as a merchant seaman until I got too old and I have lived in the Seamen’s Mission for the last forty years. I and my brother we used to go back to Somalia every year, until he was killed in a car crash in Poplar in 1980.

They told me I could bring my family over, but  there’s nowhere here for them to stay. I had eight children, all grown up. Now haven’t seen them for over a year and I feel sick, and I want to go home for good. I’m too old and I want to see my children.”

Shamsa Hersi – Manager of Somali Elders Day Centre

“I was born in a town called Burao in Somaliland and I came to UK as a refugee in 1990 when I was a child. From an early age, I wanted to work for UNICEF and in those days my great uncle used to work for the United Nations, he talked to me about his work when I was eight. I cared for my family for many years in Somalia – it is second nature to me, but you have to train to be a Social Worker. I believe that if you can work with people to help them, then it gives you a more rewarding life. I studied at university in the UK and I have a qualification in psycho-therapy and a diploma in working with people who have had traumatic life experiences. It’s about giving something back for the support I received when I came to this country. It takes a lot of guts and hard work and skills to build relationships, but it’s a privilege to work with these people – they are survivors.”

Ali Mohammad – Day Care Officer

“In 1988, there was a civil war in Somalia and I fled to my brother Isaac who was a senior official at the Ministry of Education in Mogadishu. Then, in 1989, there was a massacre – fifty-six people in my tribe were shot. They dug a mass grave and shovelled them in, but there was boy who was not shot and fell in the grave too. He managed to get out and spread the news. My brother told me to go to South Africa or India, anywhere away from Somalia, and he gave me 200,000 Somali shillings and $100. I went to India and then to Bangladesh where I studied at Dhaka University, hoping to come to Europe. My grandfather Uma Hassan sent me some money from London and my visa came through before I graduated, so he told me to come at once and I arrived at Heathrow on August 21st 1992. Because I had a family address, I decided to surprise them. I took a minicab to Poplar and they couldn’t believe it was me when I arrived!

I shared a two bedroom flat with another guy in Woolwich. The country was in recession at that time and there were no jobs. Some of the Somalis who came before me didn’t try to find work, they were so negative. They said, ‘As a black guy, you haven’t got a chance.’ But I tried and, after a month, I got a job as a kitchen porter at Queen Elizabeth Military Hospital in Woolwich, all the kitchen staff and cleaners were employed by a contractor. At first, I found it hard to get all the work completed on time but it got easier after a while. I got £2.85 an hour. Language was a problem and it was a very physical job, I found it exhausting. I couldn’t understand the people I worked with because they spoke colloquially – innit? – whereas I spoke more formal English.

I enrolled at Greenwich University and while I was working seven until seven for five days, on the other two days I did my part-time course. What I earned, I sent home but there wasn’t much left after I paid the bills. I lost my job when the contract ended after one year and eight months but by the time I finished I was earning £4.50 an hour. After three years at university, I left with a diploma in computing but I was unemployed for three months. I could only get work one day a week, doing cleaning and security in the City, I couldn’t find a decent job – they were all shut to me.

Someone told me there was an apprenticeship in Social Care available for a resident of the Ocean Estate. I was still living in Woolwich but I thought, ‘I could move to the Ocean Estate.’ A Somali landlord had a four bedroom flat with an empty room, so I took it and I got the job. They paid £500 a month and I did six months working in Social Care with disabled people, seniors and children. I did well and, in 1995, I spotted a job for a Day Care Officer advertised. By then I had my certificate, so I applied  and I won that one. And this is the job I do now here at the Somali Elders Day Centre. I got married in 1997 and I have three daughters and I live in Bethnal Green, five minutes walk from my work. I know everyone in this area.”

Ahmed Yunis – Seaman

“I came here in 1956 when I was a sailor in the Royal Navy. I felt comfortable in London because at that time my country was a British colony. I came on a Saturday and I left on the Monday. I was only here two days, I went to the Merchant Navy office and they gave me a job which lasted until 1982, when I retired. I lived in Liverpool for twenty-eight years but I consider London my home.

I am ninety-three years old. I have two wives, one here and one in Somalia. My London wife is forty-five and I have four children under eleven, the youngest is six.  I am a grateful father. I am also a great-grandfather. If you don’t smoke or drink or kiss women, you stay healthy.”

Kinsi Abdulleh – Artist

“When I got off the plane in the eighties as an eighteen-year-old refugee, I had an older family of relations to go to in Cable St. I remember thinking, ‘We’re going to England.’ and we passed Westminster and the Tower, and we ended up in this run-down, dark little side street. I thought, ‘God, what have we come to?  This is really poor, like being in Africa. I’m jumping from the frying pan into the fire!’ But, on the other hand, I fell in love with the place. I went to college and it was exciting that I could get up and go without supervision. I watched the Jackson 5 on TV and bought jeans, even though the older generation expected me to be more conventional. They said, ‘You’ve only been in the city two days and you’re going ice skating!’ They had a false outdated view of my country that I was supposed to believe. I came from the city not the village. People imagine you’ve come from Zululand and you live up a tree. I spent the formative years of my life being displaced, so I should be the one longing for tribal culture, but I am frustrated by the patriarchal tribal culture. I’ve been fortunate to end up in a place where people have extended a hand to me. I can go anywhere in Tower Hamlets, and that’s why I’ve stayed because I can walk down the street here and make my own history.”

Ali Mohammed Adan – Seaman

“I first came to London by ship in March 1958. I stayed in Aldgate for a night and went to Newport where my cousin had a house. There are many Somalis there. From that day until I retired in 1990, I was in the Merchant Navy, and I brought my family over from Somaliland. In 1970, I moved back to London to Bethnal Green but my wife and daughters chose to stay in Newport.

In Somaliland, I owned over a hundred camels and sheep. Nobody keeps camels anymore, everyone sold them and moved to the city. They say, ‘It’s too much work.’ But keeping camels and sheep and living on a farm, it’s a good life because you eat every day. Everybody wants to do it again now.”

Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie

These pictures form part of the new exhibition Don’t Just Live, Live To Be Remembered: the Somali East End produced by Tower Hamlets Local History Library & Archives. On view at Oxford House, Derbyshire St, Bethnal Green E2 6HG from 8th-31st March, with a programme of events and activities hosted at Idea Stores and other venues throughout the month.

.

You may also like to take a look at

Surma Centre Portraits

The Modern Cries of London

March 5, 2013
by the gentle author

This comic series of The Modern Cries of London from the Bishopsgate Archive are the first I have discovered that are seasonal, illustrating produce to be bought upon the streets of Georgian London in March. These traders were struggling to sell their wares to customers without any money to spare, just as their counterparts do today – rendering this series of Cries of London “Modern” in the sense that they reflect impecunious circumstances.

Images courtesy Bishopsgate Institute

You may also like to take a look at these other series of the Cries of London

Samuel Pepys’ Cries of London

London Characters

Geoffrey Fletcher’s Pavement Pounders

Faulkner’s Street Cries

William Craig Marshall’s Itinerant Traders

London Melodies

Henry Mayhew’s Street Traders

H.W.Petherick’s London Characters

John Thomson’s Street Life in London

Aunt Busy Bee’s New London Cries

Marcellus Laroon’s Cries of London

John Player’s Cries of London

More John Player’s Cries of London

William Nicholson’s London Types

John Leighton’s London Cries

Francis Wheatley’s Cries of London

John Thomas Smith’s Vagabondiana of 1817

John Thomas Smith’s Vagabondiana II

John Thomas Smith’s Vagabondiana III

Thomas Rowlandson’s Lower Orders

More of Thomas Rowlandson’s Lower Orders

Victorian Tradesmen Scraps

Cries of London Scraps

New Cries of London 1803

Cries of London Snap Cards

Adam Dant’s  New Cries of Spittlefields

Tony Bock on the Thames

March 4, 2013
by the gentle author

Pier at Beckton Gas Works

Photographer Tony Bock took these pictures of the dockland – published here for the first time today – between 1973 and 1978, when he worked on the East London Advertiser and lived in Wapping. Subsequently, he returned to Canada where he had been brought up and, for more than thirty years, enjoyed a career as a leading photojournalist on the Toronto Star. Yet Tony’s mother’s family had originated in the East End, and the pictures he took here comprise both an important testimony of a vanished era and the record of one photographer’s search for his roots.

“Although the Thames is such a fundamental part of London’s history, in my time it was difficult to get access to it. In East London, every foot was lined by warehouses and industry which meant there were few places I could peer into the life of the river. And the docks were surrounded by high walls, some even inspired by prison walls. The goods being handled were often fragrant, exotic and valuable, both to the importers and the Chancellor of the Exchequer. So accessing the water was often a challenge.

The seventies were a sad time.  Starting upriver, the docks, wharves and warehouses were closing. St. Katherine, London and East India Docks were old, small and inefficient, and they had closed in the sixties. The Surrey Commercial Docks in Rotherhithe did not last any longer, and by the mid-seventies the West India and Millwall Docks on the Isle of Dogs and the Royals in Newham were just hanging on. They could only handle open-hold ships and there were fewer of them calling, by then most shipping had been containerized and moved downriver to Tilbury.  And, as the dockers and rivermen moved or lost their jobs, there was a noticeable effect upon the old communities along the river.

There were still some barges being towed. A friend, Don Able, was a tug boat skipper who let me accompany his crew, delivering barges six at a time, to a cement works upriver.  Don was a big advocate of shipping freight on the river and avoiding the traffic jams on the A13.

Wapping was changing too.  The warehouses, built overhanging Wapping High St, looked just as they had for years but then there was an epidemic of fires – usually in the dead of night – and many of the finest nineteenth century riverside buildings were destroyed in scenes reminiscent of the Blitz.

My brother-in-law, Ian Olley, was one of the last to get his Lighterman’s license. It was another dying trade, so he went into the docks following his grandfather and uncles. My own grandfather, Edward Axton, had worked as as docker all his life.  He started at Hay’sWharf in the the twenties. The building is still there, re-developed, on Tooley St on the South Bank between London Bridge and Tower Bridge. After a few years, he transferred to the Royal Docks and worked there through the war until he retired in the sixties.  I still have his T.& G.W. union cards.  I wonder, would that entitle me to get a job in the docks?”

One of the last open-hold vessels to visit West India Dock.

Royal Dock on a winter’s day.

Heading downriver from West India Dock.

View from the abandoned Free Trade Wharf.

Lightermen.

Barges hauled through East London.

Barges hauled through Central London.

New and old buildings in Limehouse.

Firemen watch as yet another warehouse succumbs to fire in the middle of the night.

Wapping High St, deserted early on a Saturday morning.

All that was left of Surrey Commercial Docks after the basins had been filled in.

Old warehouses at Wapping Wall.

Demolishing Tobacco Dock, Wapping.

View from Isle of Dogs towards the City.

Photographs copyright © Tony Bock

You may like to see these other photographs by Tony Bock

Tony Bock, Photographer

Tony Bock at Watney Market

and these other stories about Lightermen and the Thames

Bobby Prentice, Waterman & Lighterman

“Old Bob” Prentice, Waterman & Lighterman

Among the Lightermen

Harry Harris, Lighterman