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List of Local Shops Open For Business

April 15, 2020
by the gentle author

Corner Shop, Canning Town, 1994 by Doreen Fletcher

Every Wednesday, I shall be publishing the up to date list of stalwarts that remain open in Spitalfields. Readers are especially encouraged to support small independent businesses who offer an invaluable service to the community. This list confirms that it is possible to source all essential supplies locally without recourse to supermarkets.

Be advised many shops are operating revised opening hours at present, so I recommend you call in advance to avoid risking a wasted journey. Please send any additions or amendments for next week’s list to spitalfieldslife@gmail.com

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Leslies, Turners Rd, Stepney, 1983 by Doreen Fletcher

GROCERS & FOOD SHOPS

The Albion, 2/4 Boundary St
Ali’s Mini Superstore, 50d Greatorex St
AM2PM, 210 Brick Lane
As Nature Intended, 132 Commercial St
Banglatown Cash & Carry, 67 Hanbury St
Brick Lane Minimarket, 100 Brick Lane
The Butchery Ltd, 6a Lamb St (Open Thursdays only)
City Supermarket, 10 Quaker St
Costprice Minimarket, 41 Brick Lane
Faizah Minimarket, 2 Old Montague St
JB Foodstore, 97 Brick Lane
Leila’s Shop, 17 Calvert Avenue (Call 0207 729 9789 between 10am-noon on Tuesday-Saturdays to place your order and collect on the same day from 2pm-4pm)
The Melusine Fish Shop, St Katharine Docks
Nisa Local, 92 Whitechapel High St
Nude Expresso, The Roastery, 25 Hanbury St (For sale of coffee beans only)
Pavilion Bakery, 130 Columbia Rd
Spitalfields City Farm, Buxton St (Order through website)
Sylhet Sweet Shop, 109 Hanbury St
Taj Stores, 112 Brick Lane
Zaman Brothers, Fish & Meat Bazaar, 19 Brick Lane

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Terminus Restaurant, Mile End, 1985 by Doreen Fletcher

TAKE AWAY FOOD SHOPS

Absurd Bird Fried Chicken, 54 Commercial St
Al Badam Fried Chicken, 37 Brick Lane
Band of Burgers, 22 Osborn St
Beef & Birds, Brick Lane
Beigel Bake, 159 Brick Lane
Beigel Shop, 155 Brick Lane
Bengal Village, 75 Brick Lane
Big Moe’s Diner, 95 Whitechapel High St
Burro E Salvia Pastificio, 52 Redchurch St
China Feng, 43 Commercial St
Eastern Eye Balti House, 63a Brick Lane
Enso Thai & Japanese, 94 Brick Lane
Holy Shot Coffee, 155 Bethnal Green Rd
Jonestown Coffee 215 Bethnal Green Rd
La Cucina, 96 Brick Lane
Leon, 3 Crispin Place, Spitalfields Market
E. Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Rd
Pepe’s Peri Peri, 82 Brick Lane
Peter’s Cafe, 73 Aldgate High St
Picky Wops Vegan Pizza, 53 Brick Lane
Quaker St Cafe, 10 Quaker St
Rosa’s Thai Cafe, 12 Hanbury St
Shawarma Lebanese, 84 Brick Lane
String Ray Globe Cafe, 109 Columbia Road
Sushi Show, 136 Bethnal Green Rd
Vegan Yes, Italian & Thai Fusion, 64 Brick Lane
Yuriko Sushi & Bento, 48 Brick Lane

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Fishmongers, Commercial Rd, 2003 by Doreen Fletcher

OTHER SHOPS & SERVICES

Boots the Chemist, 200 Bishopsgate
Brick Lane Bookshop, 166 Brick Lane (Books ordered by phone or email are delivered free locally)
Brick Lane Bikes, 118 Bethnal Green Rd
Brick Lane Off Licence, 114/116 Brick Lane
Day Lewis Pharmacy, 14 Old Montague St
GH Cityprint, 58-60 Middlesex St
Leyland Hardware, 2-4 Great Eastern St
Post Office, 160a Brick Lane

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Launderette, Ben Jonson Rd, Bow, 2003 by Doreen Fletcher

ELSEWHERE

City Clean Dry Cleaners, 4a Cherry Tree Walk, Whitecross St
Hackney Essentials, 235 Victoria Park Rd
Quality Dry Cleaners, 16a White Church Lane
Newham Books, 747 Barking Rd (Books ordered by phone or email are posted out)
Region Choice Chemist, 68 Cambridge Heath Rd
Symposium Italian Restaurant, 363 Roman Road (Take away service available)
Thompsons DIY, 442-444 Roman Rd

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Sheldon’s Dress Shop, Knutton, 1982 by Doreen Fletcher

William Kent’s Arch In Bow

April 14, 2020
by the gentle author

The wisteria on William Kent’s spectacular arch in Bow is in flower this week

‘a poignant vestige from a catalogue of destruction’

Ever since I first discovered William Kent’s beautiful lonely arch in Bow, I wanted to go back to take a photograph of it when the wisteria was in bloom. For a couple of years circumstances conspired to prevent me, but eventually I was able to do so and here you can admire the result without needing to leave your home.

This fine eighteenth century rusticated arch designed by the celebrated architect and designer William Kent was originally part of Northumberland House, the London residence of the Percy family in the Strand which was demolished in 1874. Then the arch was installed in the garden of the Tudor House in St Leonard’s Street, Bow, by George Gammon Rutty before it was moved here to the Bromley by Bow Centre in 1997, where it makes a magnificent welcoming entrance today.

The Tudor House was purchased in a good condition of preservation from the trustees of George Gammon Rutty after his death in 1898 by the London County Council, who chose to demolish it and turn the gardens into a public park. At this point, there were two statues situated at the foot of each of the pillars of the arch but they went missing in the nineteen-forties. One of the last surviving relics of the old village of Bromley by Bow, the house derived its name from a member of the Tudor family who built it in the late sixteenth century adjoining the Old Palace and both were lovingly recorded by CR Ashbee in the first volume of the Survey of London in 1900.

The Survey was created by Ashbee, while he was living in Bow running the Guild of Handicrafts at Essex House (another sixteenth century house nearby that was demolished), in response to what he saw as the needless loss of the Old Palace and other important historic buildings. Today, only William Kent’s arch remains as a poignant vestige from a catalogue of destruction.

William Kent (1685 –1748) Architect, landscape and furniture designer

Northumberland House by Canaletto, 1752

Northumberland House shortly before demolition, 1874

William Kent’s arch in the grounds of the Tudor House, Bow, in 1900 with its attendant statues, as illustrated in the first volume of the Survey of London by CR Ashbee (Image courtesy Survey of London/ Bishopsgate Institute)

William Kent’s arch at St Leonard’s Street, Bromley by Bow

You may also like to read about

In Old Bow

At St Mary Stratford Atte Bow

CR Ashbee in Bow

The Spitalfields Rebus

April 13, 2020
by the gentle author

As an Easter treat we are offering 50% off all titles in the Spitalfields Life Bookshop with the discount code ‘EASTER’ until midnight on Easter Monday. Please click here to visit the bookshop

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Contributing Artist ADAM DANT created this ingenious puzzle to amuse you while staying at home this Easter Monday. We will send a free Map of Spitalfields Life to everyone who submits the correct answers to spitalfieldslife@gmail.com before midnight. Be sure to include your postal address.

The answers are

1. SALT BEEF BEIGEL
2. TOYNBEE HALL
3. REPTON BOYS CLUB
4. PELLICCIS
5. MISTER PUSSY
6. SPITALFIELDS LIFE
7. GOLDFINCH
8. AURICULA
9. JELLIED EELS
10. GOLDEN HEART
11. BRICK LANE
12. MULBERRY
13. GARDNERS BAGS
14. WEAVERS
15. BISHOPSGATE INSTITUTE

Congratulations to those clever readers who successfully deduced the correct answers on Easter Monday. A copy of the Map of Spitalfields Life is on the way to each of them.

Julian Alubaidy
Geraldine Anslow
Doreen Baker
Michelle Balcombe
Douglas & Benita Brett
Paul Bolding
Rebecca Buisson
Amanda Bush
Rachel Butler
Joceline Bury
Sara & Monica Canullo
Kate Cassidy
Andrew Collingridge
Sharon Deadman
Professor Lina Drew
Annemarie Fearnley
James Finlay
Anne Flavell
Lee Gage
Sean Galvin
Deborah Geary
Julia Harrison
Michael Jarman
Lucy Kattenhorn
Fiona Larcombe
Jane Lees
Geneviève Letellier
Lena Marx
Eve McBride
Jane McChrystal
Keren McConnell
Gill Mitchell
Tim Molloy
Kate Noonan
David Oates
Julie Price
Susan Robinson
Alistair Ross
Sarah Salmon
Helen Simpson
Ann Smith
Alicia Stolliday
Rex Thornborough
Helen Tilley
Henrietta Varley
Sarah Winman
Rosie Williams

Spitalfields In Kodachrome

April 12, 2020
by the gentle author

As an Easter treat we are offering 50% off all titles in the Spitalfields Life Bookshop with the discount code ‘EASTER’ until midnight on Easter Monday.

Please click here to visit the bookshop

Photographer Philip Marriage took these pictures on 11th July 1984

Crispin St

Widegate St

White’s Row

Artillery Passage

Brushfield St

Artillery Passage

Brushfield St

Fashion St

Widegate St

Artillery Passage

Gun St

Brushfield St

Gun St

Brushfield St

Parliament Court

Leyden St

Fort St

Commercial St

Brushfield St

Photographs copyright © Philip Marriage

You may also like to take a look at

Philip Marriage’s Spitalfields

Photographs of Time Passing in Spitalfields

An Easter Treat

April 11, 2020
by the gentle author

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Recognising the pressing need for quality entertainment at home, we are offering readers 50% discount on all titles in the Spitalfields Life Bookshop until midnight on Easter Monday. Simply add discount code ‘EASTER’ at checkout.

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PLEASE CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE BOOKSHOP

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So Long, Ahmet Kamil

April 10, 2020
by the gentle author

Ahmet Kamil of Newington Green died of the coronavirus last Wednesday April 1st,  just one week after his father Sattretin Kamil

“I always trust my work”

Ahmet Kamil has been one of the most popular characters around Newington Green in recent decades. His modest repair shop was firmly established as a local hub where everyone was constantly popping in and out getting news, exchanging the time of day and having their shoes mended while they were about it too. At the end of a fine seventeenth century brick terrace, tucked in beneath a green awning, Ahmet’s premises have not changed for as long as anyone can remember.

Winter was the busy season for Ahmet but rainy days in summer sent people into his shop too, so I took advantage of a sunny day to pop over to Newington Green and have a chat with him while the business was quiet. Possessing a soulful charisma and a generous spirit, Ahmet spoke his thoughts to me as he continued with his work and I enjoyed my morning in the peace of his beautiful workshop, offering a calm refuge from the clamour of the traffic outside heading up to Stoke Newington.

“This is a family business, we’ve been here about thirty years – maybe more. My father Sattretin Kamil started it up and passed it onto me, his son. Then I took over and now my son, Tevfik Kamil, will follow me. He hasn’t fully taken over yet but he will do so. He tried other things but he’s not been happy with them, so now he’s got interested in this and has decided to do it.

My father Sattretin made shoes by hand in Cyprus, he learnt it when he was only twelve years old and, after he came to this country at thirty-five, he couldn’t get a job so he decided to make shoes here. But he was advised that mending shoes might be easier and more profitable. He had four shops – in New Cross, Charlton, Hornchurch, and this one, all run by the family. After my father retired, we cut back to just this and the one in Charlton. When my son takes over, he’ll be here and I’ll be in Charlton.

I was twenty-five when I decided to give my father a hand and the business just stuck on me – he didn’t push me into it. Because everything’s done by hand, the more you do, the more you like it. Over the years there has been no real competition. If you trust the quality of your work there will never be any competition. I do everything by hand and my work is quality. There are chains with fifty or hundred branches where they do poor quality shoe repair and key cutting, and charge more money. My customers often complain to me about them. I always trust my work.

Shoes are getting more expensive and people’s habits are changing with time. They’re taking more care of their shoes, not throwing them away and getting a new pair – so there is a tendency to repair. Also, there’s a lot of secondhand shops popping up and people are buying old shoes, but the leather dries out and comes away from the sole, and stilleto heels get brittle and smash – and, as a consequence, they are bringing them to me. There’s a healthy future in it, yet there are easier jobs than this in which you can make better money.  I’ve always thought of shoe repair alongside dry-cleaning, those shops make more money for less work. We are under pressure with the rent that is constantly going up and the price of materials, but we try to keep the service as cheap as we can.

Not many people will do shoe repair, you have to be fully committed and make good quality shoe repairs, and the work grows on you. But it’s the most difficult job you can do. It’s dirty and it’s hard work. While I was playing football until the age of thirty-five, I never had any aches and pains, but now standing still I get back ache. It’s midday and I’ve been working since nine o’clock – see how dirty my hands are. I work six days a week all year round. I’ve never had a Saturday off in thirty years. I’d like to go and watch the football, but instead I listen to it on the radio and watch the highlights.

You make a lot of friends. I’ve met a lot of people doing this work and many of my customers call me by my name. I’ve just recently been in hospital for an operation for ten days and my son was running the shop, and everybody was coming round, asking about me, ‘Where is he?’ So they are not just customers. Every year I take four weeks off in August and go back to Cyprus. When I come back again, everyone brings in their shoes. They say, ‘We wouldn’t take them anywhere else.’ They tell me, they wait until I come back because of the friendship. That’s the bond I have with my customers.”

“Because everything’s done by hand, the more you do, the more you like it”

“I’ve never had a Saturday off in thirty years”

“It’s midday and I’ve been working since nine o’clock – see how dirty my hands are”

“You make a lot of friends”

At the end of a fine seventeenth century brick terrace, tucked in beneath a green awning, Ahmet’s premises have not changed for as long as anyone can remember.

You may also like to read about

The Cobblers of Spitalfields

Wenceslaus Hollar’s Plague Letters

April 9, 2020
by Gillian Tindall

Contributing Writer Gillian Tindall sent me this account of studying letters written by engraver Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-77) at the time of the Great Plague of London in 1665

The Coat of Arms of Death by Wenceslaus Hollar, c.1680

We live in an age when a virus can travel at the speed of a jet-plane and cause the entire world to shut down, yet the internet permits us all to remain in constant communication with each other. How dreadful it would be to be shut up for an indefinite number of weeks at home without such means of contacting family, neighbours and friends – including all manner of digital ones, such as you, my readers.

Thank goodness that parcels, boxes and letters still arrive. Safe enough, provided we and the deliverer do not stand too near one another, and we wear gloves and wash our hands and dispose of the packaging.

During the Plague of London on 1665, few people had any perception of the origin of the infection apart from God’s Wrath at Sin, so they did not know what precautions were appropriate. Only a few had any realistic understanding that dirt and infestation were the main vectors of the sickness. It was generally and wrongly supposed that the sheer presence of a sick person or anything they had breathed over might be fatal. Ironically, this is more relevant to the Coronavirus than to the Bubonic Plague of the seventeenth century.

Letters were far rarer and more personal objects than today. By the time of the Plague many people in Protestant England – rather than in Catholic Europe – had learned to read thanks to the translation of the Bible into English, the Prayer Book, the hugely-popular Pilgrim’s Progress and Foxe’s Book of Martyrs. Yet for many the art of writing remained a skill too far. So the arrival of a letter, penned with a quill by somebody educated and delivered by hand, was a notable moment, even if no-one knew what such a communication might bring with it. 

By the time the Plague was at its summer height, all kinds of notions were circulating as to the best way to detoxify a letter before opening it. Some said it should be hung up to air or toasted before a fire of pine logs and others that it should be held in the steam of a boiling pot, perhaps one to which vinegar or herbs had been added – there was no shortage of suggestions.

I have held in my hands one of the letters treated in this way, more than four hundred years after it was originally delivered. This was when I was researching my book about Wenceslaus Hollar, the gifted Slav engraver who by the time of the Plague had lived in London for many years. It is thanks to him that we know today what London looked like before the Great Fire. When Hollar died, a dozen years later, he left many prints but little writing, although, being ‘good-hearted and pleasant’ as well as talented, he was missed and mentioned by many people. In particular, he was much appreciated by John Aubrey, a seventeenth century man-about-town who knew everyone. Two letters from Hollar to Aubrey survive in Duke Humfrey’s Library at the Bodleian in Oxford.

Having got to know Hollar and his movements through others’ fleeting views of him, I suspected that the standard catalogue of his surviving work had one of these two missives wrongly dated. So I got the Library’s permission to check the dates on the letters myself, and took the train to Oxford on the appointed day. Without any further fuss – though I am sure someone checked my hands were clean, clean hands being more sensitive than gloves for handling such documents – the slim file was brought to me in the Library’s historic splendour. Inside were two smallish, folded pieces of soft, thick, durable paper – at that time paper was made not from wood pulp but from recycled linen rags. Thrilled to be at last in closer touch with my unseen companion, I carefully unfolded them.

The elegant, clear, small writing was familiar to me from Hollar’s captions on numerous birds-eye maps. In these two communications, both of which seemed, from their content, to be written with some urgency, the writing was hardly less graceful. The letter that interested me most was indeed headed `1st August 1665′ – the height of the Plague, as I had suspected.

It concerned a portrait of Thomas Hobbes, the political philosopher and Fellow of the Royal Society, which Aubrey had encouraged Hollar to engrave, “…I have shewed it to some of his acquaintances, who say it be werry like, but Stint… maketh demurr to have it of me…” Hollar’s voice, in the speech of London four centuries ago.

He hoped that Aubrey would buy copies off him. Stint is Peter Stent, a dealer in prints who died a few weeks later. No doubt he had difficulties of the kind that are with us now, that in a time of sickness people do not buy pictures. Yet what most interested me about this short letter was that the writing was very faintly blurred. On receiving it, Aubrey or his servant had taken the precaution of passing it through steam.

Hollar remained at work in London through the summer and survived, although he may have sent his wife and young daughters to Islington which was then a village outside town, since his pictures of Islington are dated to that fateful year and the previous.

Aubrey reported that Hollar’s only son, by his first marriage, “died in the plague, an ingeniose youth, drew delicately,” so there was no male heir to succeed his father. No dynasty of Hollars continued into the great era of engraving in the eighteenth century and his name goes unrecognised by many who explore London’s history today, though they have seen his best known prints. In the City, in Westminster, by the Thames, in Lincolns Inn Fields and in the alleys off the Strand, we are walking in Wenceslaus Hollar’s footsteps and I think of him often.

The Procession of the Dance of Death by Wencelaus Hollar

Wenceslaus Hollar by Jan Meyssens

Gillian Tindall’s The Man Who Drew London, Wenceslaus Hollar in Reality & Imagination is published by Chatto & Windus. Her latest book The Pulse Glass & The Beat of Other Hearts is also published by Chatto & Windus

You may like to read these other stories by Gillian Tindall

Wenceslaus Hollar at Old St Paul’s

The Plagues of Old London

The Bones of Old London

Memories of Ship Tavern Passage

Gillian Tindall’s Wartime Memories

At Captain Cook’s House in Mile End

In Stepney, 1963

Stepney’s Lost Mansions

Where The White Chapel Once Stood

The Old South Bank

Leonard Fenton, Actor

In Old Deptford

Lifesaving in Limehouse

From Bedlam To Liverpool St

Smithfield’s Bloody Past

The Tunnel Through Time