Spitalfields In Kodachrome
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Photographer Philip Marriage took these pictures on 11th July 1984
Crispin St
Widegate St
White’s Row
Artillery Passage
Brushfield St
Artillery Passage
Brushfield St
Fashion St
Widegate St
Artillery Passage
Gun St
Brushfield St
Gun St
Brushfield St
Parliament Court
Leyden St
Fort St
Commercial St
Brushfield St
Photographs copyright © Philip Marriage
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An Easter Treat

Recognising the pressing need for quality entertainment at home, we are offering readers 50% discount on all titles in the Spitalfields Life Bookshop until midnight on Easter Monday. Simply add discount code ‘EASTER’ at checkout.
PLEASE CLICK HERE TO ENTER THE BOOKSHOP

So Long, Ahmet Kamil
Ahmet Kamil of Newington Green died of the coronavirus last Wednesday April 1st, just one week after his father Sattretin Kamil
“I always trust my work”
Ahmet Kamil has been one of the most popular characters around Newington Green in recent decades. His modest repair shop was firmly established as a local hub where everyone was constantly popping in and out getting news, exchanging the time of day and having their shoes mended while they were about it too. At the end of a fine seventeenth century brick terrace, tucked in beneath a green awning, Ahmet’s premises have not changed for as long as anyone can remember.
Winter was the busy season for Ahmet but rainy days in summer sent people into his shop too, so I took advantage of a sunny day to pop over to Newington Green and have a chat with him while the business was quiet. Possessing a soulful charisma and a generous spirit, Ahmet spoke his thoughts to me as he continued with his work and I enjoyed my morning in the peace of his beautiful workshop, offering a calm refuge from the clamour of the traffic outside heading up to Stoke Newington.
“This is a family business, we’ve been here about thirty years – maybe more. My father Sattretin Kamil started it up and passed it onto me, his son. Then I took over and now my son, Tevfik Kamil, will follow me. He hasn’t fully taken over yet but he will do so. He tried other things but he’s not been happy with them, so now he’s got interested in this and has decided to do it.
My father Sattretin made shoes by hand in Cyprus, he learnt it when he was only twelve years old and, after he came to this country at thirty-five, he couldn’t get a job so he decided to make shoes here. But he was advised that mending shoes might be easier and more profitable. He had four shops – in New Cross, Charlton, Hornchurch, and this one, all run by the family. After my father retired, we cut back to just this and the one in Charlton. When my son takes over, he’ll be here and I’ll be in Charlton.
I was twenty-five when I decided to give my father a hand and the business just stuck on me – he didn’t push me into it. Because everything’s done by hand, the more you do, the more you like it. Over the years there has been no real competition. If you trust the quality of your work there will never be any competition. I do everything by hand and my work is quality. There are chains with fifty or hundred branches where they do poor quality shoe repair and key cutting, and charge more money. My customers often complain to me about them. I always trust my work.
Shoes are getting more expensive and people’s habits are changing with time. They’re taking more care of their shoes, not throwing them away and getting a new pair – so there is a tendency to repair. Also, there’s a lot of secondhand shops popping up and people are buying old shoes, but the leather dries out and comes away from the sole, and stilleto heels get brittle and smash – and, as a consequence, they are bringing them to me. There’s a healthy future in it, yet there are easier jobs than this in which you can make better money. I’ve always thought of shoe repair alongside dry-cleaning, those shops make more money for less work. We are under pressure with the rent that is constantly going up and the price of materials, but we try to keep the service as cheap as we can.
Not many people will do shoe repair, you have to be fully committed and make good quality shoe repairs, and the work grows on you. But it’s the most difficult job you can do. It’s dirty and it’s hard work. While I was playing football until the age of thirty-five, I never had any aches and pains, but now standing still I get back ache. It’s midday and I’ve been working since nine o’clock – see how dirty my hands are. I work six days a week all year round. I’ve never had a Saturday off in thirty years. I’d like to go and watch the football, but instead I listen to it on the radio and watch the highlights.
You make a lot of friends. I’ve met a lot of people doing this work and many of my customers call me by my name. I’ve just recently been in hospital for an operation for ten days and my son was running the shop, and everybody was coming round, asking about me, ‘Where is he?’ So they are not just customers. Every year I take four weeks off in August and go back to Cyprus. When I come back again, everyone brings in their shoes. They say, ‘We wouldn’t take them anywhere else.’ They tell me, they wait until I come back because of the friendship. That’s the bond I have with my customers.”
“Because everything’s done by hand, the more you do, the more you like it”
“I’ve never had a Saturday off in thirty years”
“It’s midday and I’ve been working since nine o’clock – see how dirty my hands are”
“You make a lot of friends”
At the end of a fine seventeenth century brick terrace, tucked in beneath a green awning, Ahmet’s premises have not changed for as long as anyone can remember.
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Wenceslaus Hollar’s Plague Letters
Contributing Writer Gillian Tindall sent me this account of studying letters written by engraver Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-77) at the time of the Great Plague of London in 1665

The Coat of Arms of Death by Wenceslaus Hollar, c.1680
We live in an age when a virus can travel at the speed of a jet-plane and cause the entire world to shut down, yet the internet permits us all to remain in constant communication with each other. How dreadful it would be to be shut up for an indefinite number of weeks at home without such means of contacting family, neighbours and friends – including all manner of digital ones, such as you, my readers.
Thank goodness that parcels, boxes and letters still arrive. Safe enough, provided we and the deliverer do not stand too near one another, and we wear gloves and wash our hands and dispose of the packaging.
During the Plague of London on 1665, few people had any perception of the origin of the infection apart from God’s Wrath at Sin, so they did not know what precautions were appropriate. Only a few had any realistic understanding that dirt and infestation were the main vectors of the sickness. It was generally and wrongly supposed that the sheer presence of a sick person or anything they had breathed over might be fatal. Ironically, this is more relevant to the Coronavirus than to the Bubonic Plague of the seventeenth century.
Letters were far rarer and more personal objects than today. By the time of the Plague many people in Protestant England – rather than in Catholic Europe – had learned to read thanks to the translation of the Bible into English, the Prayer Book, the hugely-popular Pilgrim’s Progress and Foxe’s Book of Martyrs. Yet for many the art of writing remained a skill too far. So the arrival of a letter, penned with a quill by somebody educated and delivered by hand, was a notable moment, even if no-one knew what such a communication might bring with it.
By the time the Plague was at its summer height, all kinds of notions were circulating as to the best way to detoxify a letter before opening it. Some said it should be hung up to air or toasted before a fire of pine logs and others that it should be held in the steam of a boiling pot, perhaps one to which vinegar or herbs had been added – there was no shortage of suggestions.
I have held in my hands one of the letters treated in this way, more than four hundred years after it was originally delivered. This was when I was researching my book about Wenceslaus Hollar, the gifted Slav engraver who by the time of the Plague had lived in London for many years. It is thanks to him that we know today what London looked like before the Great Fire. When Hollar died, a dozen years later, he left many prints but little writing, although, being ‘good-hearted and pleasant’ as well as talented, he was missed and mentioned by many people. In particular, he was much appreciated by John Aubrey, a seventeenth century man-about-town who knew everyone. Two letters from Hollar to Aubrey survive in Duke Humfrey’s Library at the Bodleian in Oxford.
Having got to know Hollar and his movements through others’ fleeting views of him, I suspected that the standard catalogue of his surviving work had one of these two missives wrongly dated. So I got the Library’s permission to check the dates on the letters myself, and took the train to Oxford on the appointed day. Without any further fuss – though I am sure someone checked my hands were clean, clean hands being more sensitive than gloves for handling such documents – the slim file was brought to me in the Library’s historic splendour. Inside were two smallish, folded pieces of soft, thick, durable paper – at that time paper was made not from wood pulp but from recycled linen rags. Thrilled to be at last in closer touch with my unseen companion, I carefully unfolded them.
The elegant, clear, small writing was familiar to me from Hollar’s captions on numerous birds-eye maps. In these two communications, both of which seemed, from their content, to be written with some urgency, the writing was hardly less graceful. The letter that interested me most was indeed headed `1st August 1665′ – the height of the Plague, as I had suspected.
It concerned a portrait of Thomas Hobbes, the political philosopher and Fellow of the Royal Society, which Aubrey had encouraged Hollar to engrave, “…I have shewed it to some of his acquaintances, who say it be werry like, but Stint… maketh demurr to have it of me…” Hollar’s voice, in the speech of London four centuries ago.
He hoped that Aubrey would buy copies off him. Stint is Peter Stent, a dealer in prints who died a few weeks later. No doubt he had difficulties of the kind that are with us now, that in a time of sickness people do not buy pictures. Yet what most interested me about this short letter was that the writing was very faintly blurred. On receiving it, Aubrey or his servant had taken the precaution of passing it through steam.
Hollar remained at work in London through the summer and survived, although he may have sent his wife and young daughters to Islington which was then a village outside town, since his pictures of Islington are dated to that fateful year and the previous.
Aubrey reported that Hollar’s only son, by his first marriage, “died in the plague, an ingeniose youth, drew delicately,” so there was no male heir to succeed his father. No dynasty of Hollars continued into the great era of engraving in the eighteenth century and his name goes unrecognised by many who explore London’s history today, though they have seen his best known prints. In the City, in Westminster, by the Thames, in Lincolns Inn Fields and in the alleys off the Strand, we are walking in Wenceslaus Hollar’s footsteps and I think of him often.

The Procession of the Dance of Death by Wencelaus Hollar

Wenceslaus Hollar by Jan Meyssens
Gillian Tindall’s The Man Who Drew London, Wenceslaus Hollar in Reality & Imagination is published by Chatto & Windus. Her latest book The Pulse Glass & The Beat of Other Hearts is also published by Chatto & Windus
You may like to read these other stories by Gillian Tindall
Wenceslaus Hollar at Old St Paul’s
Memories of Ship Tavern Passage
Gillian Tindall’s Wartime Memories
At Captain Cook’s House in Mile End
List Of Local Shops Open For Business

W.Wernick, Old Montague St, 1962 by John Claridge
Every Wednesday, I shall be publishing the up to date list of stalwarts that remain open locally. Readers are especially encouraged to support small independent businesses who offer an invaluable service to the community. This list confirms that it is possible to source all essential supplies locally without recourse to supermarkets.
Be advised many shops are operating revised opening hours at present, so I recommend you call in advance to avoid risking a wasted journey. Please send any additions or amendments for next week’s list to spitalfieldslife@gmail.com

Greengrocer, Bethnal Green 1961 by John Claridge
GROCERS & FOOD SHOPS
The Albion, 2/4 Boundary St
Ali’s Mini Superstore, 50d Greatorex St
AM2PM, 210 Brick Lane
As Nature Intended, 132 Commercial St
Banglatown Cash & Carry, 67 Hanbury St
Brick Lane Minimarket, 100 Brick Lane
The Butchery Ltd, 6a Lamb St (Open Thursdays only)
City Supermarket, 10 Quaker St
Costprice Minimarket, 41 Brick Lane
Faizah Minimarket, 2 Old Montague St
JB Foodstore, 97 Brick Lane
Leila’s Shop, 17 Calvert Avenue (Call 0207 729 9789 between 10am-noon on Tuesday-Saturdays to place your order and collect on the same day from 2pm-4pm)
Nisa Local, 92 Whitechapel High St
Nude Expresso, The Roastery, 25 Hanbury St (For sale of coffee beans only)
Pavilion Bakery, 130 Columbia Rd
Sylhet Sweet Shop, 109 Hanbury St
Taj Stores, 112 Brick Lane
Zaman Brothers, Fish & Meat Bazaar, 19 Brick Lane

Shop in Spitalfields, 1964 by John Claridge
TAKE AWAY FOOD SHOPS
Absurd Bird Fried Chicken, 54 Commercial St
Al Badam Fried Chicken, 37 Brick Lane
Band of Burgers, 22 Osborn St
Beef & Birds, Brick Lane
Beigel Bake, 159 Brick Lane
Beigel Shop, 155 Brick Lane
Bengal Village, 75 Brick Lane
Big Moe’s Diner, 95 Whitechapel High St
Burro E Salvia Pastificio, 52 Redchurch St
China Feng, 43 Commercial St
Eastern Eye Balti House, 63a Brick Lane
Enso Thai & Japanese, 94 Brick Lane
Holy Shot Coffee, 155 Bethnal Green Rd
La Cucina, 96 Brick Lane
Leon, 3 Crispin Place, Spitalfields Market
E. Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Rd
Pepe’s Peri Peri, 82 Brick Lane
Peter’s Cafe, 73 Aldgate High St
Picky Wops Vegan Pizza, 53 Brick Lane
Quaker St Cafe, 10 Quaker St
Rosa’s Thai Cafe, 12 Hanbury St
Shawarma Lebanese, 84 Brick Lane
Stingray Globe Cafe, 109 Columbia Road
Sushi Show, 136 Bethnal Green Rd
Vegan Yes, Italian & Thai Fusion, 64 Brick Lane
Yuriko Sushi & Bento, 48 Brick Lane

Fishmonger, Spitalfields, 1965 by John Claridge
OTHER SHOPS & SERVICES
Boots the Chemist, 200 Bishopsgate
Brick Lane Bookshop, 166 Brick Lane (Books ordered by phone or online are delivered free locally)
Brick Lane Bikes, 118 Bethnal Green Rd
Brick Lane Off Licence, 114/116 Brick Lane
Day Lewis Pharmacy, 14 Old Montague St
GH Cityprint, 58-60 Middlesex St
Leyland Hardware, 2-4 Great Eastern St
Post Office, 160a Brick Lane

Sammy Fisher in the doorway of his grocer’s shop in Old Montague St, 1961 by John Claridge
ELSEWHERE
City Clean Dry Cleaners, 4a Cherry Tree Walk, Whitecross St
Hackney Essentials, 235 Victoria Park Rd
Quality Dry Cleaners, 16a White Church Lane
Region Choice Chemist, 68 Cambridge Heath Rd
Thompsons DIY, 442-444 Roman Rd

In Self-Isolation With My Mother
Anthropologist & Writer Delwar Hussain sent me this follow-up to his recent piece, describing his experiences of self-isolating alone with his mother in the family home in Spitalfields

Portrait by Sarah Ainslie
My mother and I may have the virus. It began with a cough followed by flu symptoms. I had night sweats, she had headaches and we each had swollen glands, and a general weakness and soreness. We both lost our sense of taste and smell.
Every morning, we wake late and gargle with hot salt water to clear bacteria from our throats. Through the day, we sip a tea of turmeric, cinnamon bark, cloves, Nigella seeds, garlic, ginger and lemon.
‘It is now up to Allah,’ my mother says, rubbing dollops of Vicks onto her forehead and chest. She has been having nightmares but tries to rest. I struggle with the books I set myself to read over Easter because it is impossible to immerse myself in other worlds and times when this one is so pressing, so big.
I find myself ambling around the house and my tread is heavy, often painful. I have lived here for thirty years and although I have tried other places, in other cities in other parts of the world, I am unable to sever my attachment to this one. Every inch, every doorknob, hinge, every gap, crack and blemish is a prompt, recalling constellations of memories that span epochs of our family life. These stories criss-cross, beginning here and ending over there, their contours no longer precise or clear. Details, chronologies, who actually said what and why, cease to matter as much as that they happened here. The house embodies our collective histories, hopes, resources, ideals and fears – all the pain, despair and dreams of my family and those who have lived here.
My attic bedroom looks out to the City of London with a view of Christ Church and the weavers attics of neighbouring houses. It is freezing in winter, boiling in summer. I have had my room for over a decade but I inherited it from my cousin whom my mother raised with us. He had it for years before he got married and moved out, then it became our sitting room until I was able to claim it. My mother and I watched Princess Diana’s funeral up here, both of us numbed into silence.
Across the landing is my sister’s workroom, full of colours, paints and brushes. Her room faces east, looking towards the minaret of the Brick Lane Jama Masjid and, beyond that, the helipad of the Royal London Hospital where today coronavirus patients are being ferried. Before my sister took over this room, my mother kept her sewing machine there and stitched lining for leather jackets late into the night. It was full of scraps, boxes of bobbins, spools of thread in a myriad of colours, tape measures and massive scissors. The floor below is where my mother has her bedroom. Other than rearranging the direction her bed faces in the nineties, an event in itself, I do not recall her moving bedrooms as the rest of us did. She recently asked me to paint the walls of her room and I had been planning to do it over Easter, but this will need to be postponed for the moment.
Styga, our old cat, warily accompanies me as I lumber around the house. She is disorientated, not just because of her grand age, but because the pandemic is confusing her. She does not understand why there are no people on the streets, taking photographs of her, or why she is not being stroked by those on the Ripper tours that stop outside. Her sister, Chompa, was the fiercest cat to have lived with us. The two could not stand the sight of each another, dividing the house between them. Styga had the top half and Chompa the bottom half. Like border guards, they scowled and snarled when one encroached the other’s territory until, a few years ago, Chompa disappeared. Then Styga changed, became nervous, unsettled, anxious and was in constant search for her sister.
Styga accompanies me, joining my mother in the sitting room where I can hear her coughing and praying to herself. This room is where we encounter the world and the world encounters us. It is the site of victories and where schemes, plans and ambitions are laid out. This is where our family gather when it appears everything may have been lost. The place where difficult conversations are had and rites of passage held. My cousin was made to confess to his gambling addiction here. My brothers brought their brides and introduced them to the rest of the household here. My sisters departed from this room when they married. It is where grandchildren and great-grandchildren come to play when we are not in self-isolation, where kittens are raised, and Eid parties and Christmas lunches held.
As I walk down the stairs, I am reminded of the last time my father was in the house. I was descending as I am now, aged eighteen, and he was sprawled out on the floor below, writhing and grimacing in pain. I tried to pick him up and he was frail and light. Doctors could not diagnose what was wrong. He died a month after this.
In the kitchen, I make more of the tea that we think is doing us good. Outside, the streets are thick with silence, yet from everywhere, I hear a confetti of sounds, of laughter, of tears, the voices of people who have rung the doorbell, the voices of our younger selves. They come for friendship, for refuge, for solace, for time, and to play a game of cricket. People shout, whisper and cry. There are disorderly queues formed by lovers. There is the song of blackbirds and of the ducks we once kept. The latest Bollywood songs, the azaan from the mosque, the church bells from next door. I can hear preparations to go on anti-war demonstrations, the fruit and vegetable merchants from the Spitalfields Market, drunk office workers vomiting curry and beigels. The man who sold rice from a supermarket trolley is calling, and Sheila and Paddy from number eight are telling me to turn the radio down. Fireworks are exploding on Guy Fawkes night, bailiffs are knocking, camera-shutters are falling, countless winos are sleeping, peeing and raging at our door.
One day we will have to give up our house and we will be left with our past. Our past became our stories. Like our forebears, the Huguenot and Jewish families who lived here before us, the house made us who we are and we, too, have made it what it is.

Family portrait, 1980. From left to right – Arful Nessa (mother), Haji Abdul Jalil (father), Hafsa Begum (sister), Rahana Begum (sister), Faruk Miah (cousin), Shiraz Miah (cousin) and Delwar Hussain.
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The Consolation Of Schrodinger
I believe most will agree that life is far from easy and that dark moments are an inescapable part of human existence. When I feel sad, when I feel confused, when I feel conflicted, when it all gets too much and my head is crowded with thoughts yet I do not even know what to do next, I lie down on my bed to calm myself.
On such an occasion recently, I was lying in a reverie and my consciousness was merging with the patterns of the changing light on the ceiling, when I heard small footsteps enter the room followed by a soft clump as Schrodinger landed upon the coverlet in a leap.
I lifted my head for a moment and cast my eyes towards him and he looked at me askance, our eyes meeting briefly in the half-light of the shaded room before I lay my head back and he settled himself down at a distance to rest.
I resumed my contemplation, trying to navigate the shifting currents of troubling thoughts as they coursed through my head but drifting inescapably into emotional confusion. Suddenly my mind was stilled and halted by the interruption of the smallest sensation, as insignificant yet as arresting as a single star in a night sky.
Turning my head towards Schrodinger, I saw that he had stretched out a front leg to its greatest extent and the very tip of his white paw was touching my calf, just enough to register. Our eyes met in a moment of mutual recognition that granted me the consolation I had been seeking. I was amazed. It truly was as if he knew, yet I cannot unravel precisely what he knew. I only know that I was released from the troubles and sorrow that were oppressing me.
When he was the church cat, Schrodinger lived a public life and developed a robust personality that enabled him to survive and flourish in his role as mascot in Shoreditch. After two years living a private domestic life in Spitalfields, he has adapted to a quieter more intimate sequestered existence, becoming more playful and openly affectionate.
At bedtime now, he leaps onto the coverlet, rolling around like a kitten before retreating – once he has wished me goodnight in his own way – to the sofa outside the bedroom door where he spends the night. Thus each day with Schrodinger ends in an expression of mutual delight.
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