Rosie Dastgir’s Letter From Tokyo
Contributing Writer Rosie Dastgir sent me this despatch with photographs from Tokyo

Yoyogi Park, Shibuya
There have been hints for days that the virus is coming to Tokyo – the thinned-out crowds along the Meguro River, banked with cherry blossom, the usual sakura celebrations eerily damped down. On the ten minute walk to Nakameguro, my subway station, I pass shuttered cocktail bars under the railway arches that stretch along a brightly lit street. Normally it thrums with people heading home from work for beer or piling into the many little ramen and sushi restaurants, and Spanish, Mexican and French bistros. A hasty shift from sit down service to takeaway is underway.
I arrived here in Japan in February to visit my husband who is working in Tokyo at present, not expecting to outstay the arrival of the blossom that heralds the arrival of spring. It is now past full bloom as I wait in abeyance, my flight home in March cancelled by the airline. We have been waiting for days for the government to announce a state of emergency and for lockdown in the world’s most populous city. But I do not know what is happening. I speak no Japanese and know barely anyone here. My Google Translate app is a slippery and unreliable friend when it comes to interpreting the written signs and warnings springing up on store fronts and lampposts.
At dusk, I walk outside to see what is still open. The young couple who run the miniature Italian bistro round the corner from our apartment wave through the lamplit windows where I ate a perfect pizza last week. I pause to peer through the blinds into the amber light. The folded-in air about the place has been been replaced by something else. There is a spirit of readying and preparation, with plastic boxes and dishes being lined up in cheery precision. On the blackboard outside, the only English word standing out is ‘takeaway’, giving me a pop of joy. Carbonara risotto and pizza margherita to go, which in Tokyo means beautifully cooked and then sculpted in Saran wrap.
The pink moon rises over the little graveyard beside the busy highway and I head to the 7–Eleven, the local convenience store that is my second home. It glows with possibility, the jingle soundtrack tinkling Cheer Up Sleepy Cheap as I drift round the shelves to see what is missing. The gaps speak of pragmatism rather than panic, I tell myself. The emptying began a month ago when semi lockdown was implemented in Tokyo, and schools and municipal spaces were closed. An extreme step for this orderly city which produced a quiet rush on hand sanitizer and face masks. Tylenol has fled the shelves. The anti-bacterial floor wipes are in peculiar demand. I try not to become restive.
Here are the boys gathered around the magazine section, lost in manga comics. There is the cute girl printing out documents at the photocopier. A mother wrangles her knee-high charge in school uniform and a floral face mask. Oh, they are back to school then. The masked cashier greets me jubilantly with “Irasshaimasé!” as she scans my carton of milk, a bag of sesame crisps and the pale pink mascara wand I have chosen from the make-up section. In February, I bought a can of Sakura-themed Asahi beer here, shiny pink with blossom and still emblazoned with the doomed Tokyo 2020 Olympics. That is all over and hanafukui time is here now, flower snow drifting onto the paths and the river.
In the Tokyu Store, a supermarket close to the station, I stare at a blank space where I believe toilet roll once was and I angle my Google Translate at the label. A woman notices and knowingly advises me that Japan will not run out. “We have plenty,” she says and I do not doubt her. This is not what I fear.
Needling messages arrive – shot through with panic – from a friend in New York. The fear has gripped him now, as if he had not noticed what was going on for months in Wuhan and South Korea. It has come to Europe and the United States and friends are understandably terrified. On WhatsApp, I still glimpse reassuring frames of life from our home in London – the freshly washed cat, a glossy tuft of grass, a bowl of hummus, one of my daughters revising for university exams and an oil painting by the other.
Distance stretches out between us. My family is bifurcated in two cities by the coronavirus. I am nearly 10,000 km away from London. I watch a video of flight patterns around the globe. From tomorrow, British Airways will cease flying from Tokyo to the United Kingdom. I flinch at a feeling I have resisted until now. I weigh up the odds. If I need to get back to London, I can fly via Qatar through the Gulf. It would take twenty-four hours. It is just possible – I tell myself – if there is an emergency. If? The emergency is already here.













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At Tjaden’s Electrical Repair Shop
Gulam Taslim, Funeral Director
Cable St Gardeners
Now allotments have become even more valuable, both as havens of solace and sources of fresh greens, Photographer Chris Kelly celebrates the perennial Cable St Gardeners

Jane Sill – I hope to grow more vegetables in future. Other plants have taken over the space, especially poppies. They remind me of my grandfather who was wounded and left for dead of the first day of the Battle of the Somme, 1st July, 1916. He survived, was nursed in France and eventually brought back to this country. The Tibetan prayer flags were brought back from Lhasa by a friend.
Ray Newton – There are more younger people in the gardens now and more flowers. I’m still growing mainly vegetables. We’ve had a plague of snails this year because of the wet weather. I’m kept busy with my work as secretary of the History of Wapping Trust, I give talks and guided walks.
Anwara Begum – I’m growing more varieties of vegetables now. I have Bangladeshi pumpkins and different types of Bangladeshi cucumbers. I grow aubergines and chillies in my greenhouse – one of them is too hot even for me.
Manda Helal – Manda’s vines, pretty and delicious.
Marian Monas – I’ve been coming to the gardens for a few months. I live just around the corner. Eventually I hope to have a plot or to share one, but in the meantime I’m growing things in a raised planter. I’m happy with anything that grows really. I’ve got herbs, chard, rhubarb, lavender – and there are visits from a friendly rat.
Ron Osborne – I was one of the original gardeners here back in the seventies and I had a plot for about ten years. Then I started the Shadwell Basin Project for local youth and became involved with other things. I came back when Gina got this plot and we both spend time on it, but it’s basically hers.
Anne Herbert – Anne moved out of the area in 2005 but always comes back to the gardens on Open Day and keeps in touch with some of the other gardeners. Part of Anne’s former plot is now a well stocked pond.
Ann Ahern – I moved to Tower Hamlets from Notting Hill in 1999 and I’ve had my plot here since 2005. I live just eight minutes away. I’m growing mixed flowers, a few vegetables and I have a pond. My nephew has a seed bed on part of the plot. I’m not so good with seeds.
Monir Uddin – My latest project is to specialise in roses. I’m transplanting them, but they are quite tricky to grow and it takes at least a year for the roots to become established. I’m a photographer and I hope to photograph the roses for cards and calendars.
Helen Keep
Emir Hasham – Emir’s plot houses one of two beehives introduced to the gardens recently.
Hasan Chowdhury – I’m twelve and I’m the youngest gardener here. I first came with our neighbour Angel, who has a cat, and then Jane let me take over these raised planters. I’m growing spinach and potatoes, three different types of pumpkins, peas and coriander. I first learned about gardening from my mum and I like it because gardening is fun.
Suzanne & Mark Lancaster – We started gardening here fairly recently. It’s lovely to come to this beautiful oasis of flowers, birds and greenness in the heart of the East End. We live on busy Brick Lane, so it’s a joy to have somewhere so pretty and tranquil for a break. We hope to grow french beans, rhubarb and herbs in our raised planters.
Devika Jeetun – I’ve been coming to the gardens for a long time. I had to give up my plot when I was caring for my brother and I’m on the waiting list now. I’m growing herbs and vegetables in raised planters – potatoes, tomatoes, runner beans, spring onions and coriander. And I’m looking forward to having a plot again.
Balkis Karim
Annemarie Cooper – I’ve been gardening here for sixteen years and I don’t bother so much with vegetables now, my garden is basically a wildlife area. Those of us who encourage frogs have been using lion poo to keep the cats away from the ponds and it seems to work.
Sheila McQuaid – My gardening is more organised now. I come here at least twice a week. I’m growing different types of vegetables such as squashes and courgettes and I use the greenhouse for tomatoes. But the fruit has not been so good this year, so I’m growing more herbs, especially varieties of mint – I’m into mint tea in quite a big way.
Photographs copyright © Chris Kelly
To learn more about Cable Street Community Gardens or buy copies of the Cable St Gardeners book, contact Jane Sill janesill@aol.com or visit www.cablestreetcommunitygardens.co.uk
You may like to see the earlier series of Chris Kelly’s Cable St Gardeners
or take a look at these other pictures by Chris Kelly
A Pack Of Knaves
While people are staying indoors, I have no doubt that some will be getting on each other’s nerves. So for anyone who is growing frustrated, this Pack of Knaves engraved by Wenceslaus Hollar (1607-77) might permit you to forgive your household. Count yourself lucky that you are not cooped up with this lot.
















Images courtesy University of Toronto
You may like to read these stories about Wenceslaus Hollar
In Convalescence With My Mother
Anthropologist & Writer Delwar Hussain sent me this follow-up to his recent pieces, describing his experiences of self-isolating with his mother in the family home in Spitalfields

Portrait by Lucinda Douglas Menzies
It has been several days since our bodies returned to us. My mother and I are free of the virus. We no longer have coughs and pains but await the return of our senses of smell and taste. During the ordeal, I put on weight while my mother, who has always been lean, looks thinner. The inability to taste has had an effect on how much she eats. Yet we remind ourselves that we are the lucky ones.
My friend’s father died of the virus and was buried in a body bag with just five members of the family allowed to attend the funeral. My brother’s best friend’s father was buried in Ilford when the death certificate was eventually issued. Some people my mother knows have died and several are in intensive care. Our neighbours are unwell. My friends are living with uncertainties around employment, homes and, indeed, their health.
As we recuperated, my siblings brought us food. Dressed in surgical masks and rubber gloves, they dropped off curries, fruit and lemons on the doorstep. Friends and neighbours offered to deliver supplies too. We accumulated so many Tupperware containers that a mountain of them formed on the kitchen table, threatening to topple over onto the cat when she brushed her neck against the table leg.
In the evenings, I put the scraps in to the compost bin and wash each container fastidiously, making sure I clean in the creases and the binds of the lids, ready to return to the owner the next day. And herein lies the problem – I cannot remember who it was that gave us which one. The boxes look the same yet belong to different people. My sister-in-law who works at the Royal London Hospital asked my mother on the phone whether she had seen the one with the blue lid, it belonged to her own mother.
A friend once told me that Tupperware containers are not to be held on to but should always be in circulation – amongst friends, neighbours, family, colleagues – preferably with something inside. Apparently, it is bad luck to return an empty one, not in keeping with the spirit of reciprocation. However the washing is all I am able to manage before the little boxes go back out in to the world to be returned to other sets of hands than those that gave them to us.
Over Easter weekend I stood in the garden. Leaves glistened as though encrusted with tiny jewels. Birds swooped and circled, reclaiming the skies. I stared up at the sun with my eyes shut. Stars floated and danced behind my eyelids. Filled with intimations of summer to come and memories of ones past, I felt a quickening of the heart, reminding me of why I live and want to continue living.
Like everyone else, I want life to go back to normal. At the same time, it was that ‘normality’ which delivered the pandemic. That normality was also the cause of climate change, deforestation, wars, streams of refugees, scarcity of resources and excessive consumption. So I wonder, what is the normality without all of the devastation and how do we get there?
My mother arrived at the kitchen door, swathed in shawls, surveying the garden. She had spent the morning transferring little bean and gourd plants that she had grown from seed into individual pots and, once bigger, she will plant them out in the garden. She has placed the pots on every available space in the house including, most inconveniently, on the staircase. Throughout the day, she rotates them into the shifting pools of sunlight. She always grows much more than she needs so she can give some to her sister, friends and neighbours – receiving plants from them in turn.
‘Seeing as you’re just standing idly around’, my mother said, ‘Can you attend to the compost? The roots of the olive, plum and orange trees could do with a boost of new soil.’ I harrumphed, preferring to be reminiscing about summer glories but she asked again. From experience, I have learnt it is best to acquiesce to her gardening demands yet – regardless of her wishes – I knew the spade was missing. She could not remember who she had last lent it to or whether they had returned it. I thought about using one of the Tupperware boxes to shovel the soil until she indicated with her chin the little hand trowel, with its handle broken, half-buried amongst the gooseberry bushes.
I approached the compost bin. The top layer had not fully decomposed, with scraps from recent meals still evident, and I was relieved that I was still unable to smell it. As I dug out the compost the best I could with my broken trowel, I came across the old credit cards my mother had snapped in half and put in there as a secure way to dispose of them. Thick worms, as thick as my finger, and a cornucopia of other creepy crawlies grew irritated as I disturbed their lives.
All the while my mother watched me, cautiously making sure I did not spill any of the thick, dense, heavy compost I was digging at the bottom of the bin. She wanted to make sure I was treating it with due respect and care. ‘Most of that,’ she said, her breathing laboured, ‘was the peels and scraps that your brother and sister brought back from Jennifer’s restaurant in Spitalfields Market when they worked for her. She’s dead now. What a good woman, she loved your brother and sister.’ My mother was not being morose, she was instructing me that gardening is about remembering. Remembering those who are still with us and those who have passed on.





Portrait by Patricia Niven
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List of Local Shops Open For Business

Corner Shop, Canning Town, 1994 by Doreen Fletcher
Every Wednesday, I shall be publishing the up to date list of stalwarts that remain open in Spitalfields. Readers are especially encouraged to support small independent businesses who offer an invaluable service to the community. This list confirms that it is possible to source all essential supplies locally without recourse to supermarkets.
Be advised many shops are operating revised opening hours at present, so I recommend you call in advance to avoid risking a wasted journey. Please send any additions or amendments for next week’s list to spitalfieldslife@gmail.com

Leslies, Turners Rd, Stepney, 1983 by Doreen Fletcher
GROCERS & FOOD SHOPS
The Albion, 2/4 Boundary St
Ali’s Mini Superstore, 50d Greatorex St
AM2PM, 210 Brick Lane
As Nature Intended, 132 Commercial St
Banglatown Cash & Carry, 67 Hanbury St
Brick Lane Minimarket, 100 Brick Lane
The Butchery Ltd, 6a Lamb St (Open Thursdays only)
City Supermarket, 10 Quaker St
Costprice Minimarket, 41 Brick Lane
Faizah Minimarket, 2 Old Montague St
JB Foodstore, 97 Brick Lane
Leila’s Shop, 17 Calvert Avenue (Call 0207 729 9789 between 10am-noon on Tuesday-Saturdays to place your order and collect on the same day from 2pm-4pm)
The Melusine Fish Shop, St Katharine Docks
Nisa Local, 92 Whitechapel High St
Nude Expresso, The Roastery, 25 Hanbury St (For sale of coffee beans only)
Pavilion Bakery, 130 Columbia Rd
Spitalfields City Farm, Buxton St (Order through website)
Sylhet Sweet Shop, 109 Hanbury St
Taj Stores, 112 Brick Lane
Zaman Brothers, Fish & Meat Bazaar, 19 Brick Lane

Terminus Restaurant, Mile End, 1985 by Doreen Fletcher
TAKE AWAY FOOD SHOPS
Absurd Bird Fried Chicken, 54 Commercial St
Al Badam Fried Chicken, 37 Brick Lane
Band of Burgers, 22 Osborn St
Beef & Birds, Brick Lane
Beigel Bake, 159 Brick Lane
Beigel Shop, 155 Brick Lane
Bengal Village, 75 Brick Lane
Big Moe’s Diner, 95 Whitechapel High St
Burro E Salvia Pastificio, 52 Redchurch St
China Feng, 43 Commercial St
Eastern Eye Balti House, 63a Brick Lane
Enso Thai & Japanese, 94 Brick Lane
Holy Shot Coffee, 155 Bethnal Green Rd
Jonestown Coffee 215 Bethnal Green Rd
La Cucina, 96 Brick Lane
Leon, 3 Crispin Place, Spitalfields Market
E. Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Rd
Pepe’s Peri Peri, 82 Brick Lane
Peter’s Cafe, 73 Aldgate High St
Picky Wops Vegan Pizza, 53 Brick Lane
Quaker St Cafe, 10 Quaker St
Rosa’s Thai Cafe, 12 Hanbury St
Shawarma Lebanese, 84 Brick Lane
String Ray Globe Cafe, 109 Columbia Road
Sushi Show, 136 Bethnal Green Rd
Vegan Yes, Italian & Thai Fusion, 64 Brick Lane
Yuriko Sushi & Bento, 48 Brick Lane

Fishmongers, Commercial Rd, 2003 by Doreen Fletcher
OTHER SHOPS & SERVICES
Boots the Chemist, 200 Bishopsgate
Brick Lane Bookshop, 166 Brick Lane (Books ordered by phone or email are delivered free locally)
Brick Lane Bikes, 118 Bethnal Green Rd
Brick Lane Off Licence, 114/116 Brick Lane
Day Lewis Pharmacy, 14 Old Montague St
GH Cityprint, 58-60 Middlesex St
Leyland Hardware, 2-4 Great Eastern St
Post Office, 160a Brick Lane

Launderette, Ben Jonson Rd, Bow, 2003 by Doreen Fletcher
ELSEWHERE
City Clean Dry Cleaners, 4a Cherry Tree Walk, Whitecross St
Hackney Essentials, 235 Victoria Park Rd
Quality Dry Cleaners, 16a White Church Lane
Newham Books, 747 Barking Rd (Books ordered by phone or email are posted out)
Region Choice Chemist, 68 Cambridge Heath Rd
Symposium Italian Restaurant, 363 Roman Road (Take away service available)
Thompsons DIY, 442-444 Roman Rd

Sheldon’s Dress Shop, Knutton, 1982 by Doreen Fletcher
William Kent’s Arch In Bow
The wisteria on William Kent’s spectacular arch in Bow is in flower this week

‘a poignant vestige from a catalogue of destruction’
Ever since I first discovered William Kent’s beautiful lonely arch in Bow, I wanted to go back to take a photograph of it when the wisteria was in bloom. For a couple of years circumstances conspired to prevent me, but eventually I was able to do so and here you can admire the result without needing to leave your home.
This fine eighteenth century rusticated arch designed by the celebrated architect and designer William Kent was originally part of Northumberland House, the London residence of the Percy family in the Strand which was demolished in 1874. Then the arch was installed in the garden of the Tudor House in St Leonard’s Street, Bow, by George Gammon Rutty before it was moved here to the Bromley by Bow Centre in 1997, where it makes a magnificent welcoming entrance today.
The Tudor House was purchased in a good condition of preservation from the trustees of George Gammon Rutty after his death in 1898 by the London County Council, who chose to demolish it and turn the gardens into a public park. At this point, there were two statues situated at the foot of each of the pillars of the arch but they went missing in the nineteen-forties. One of the last surviving relics of the old village of Bromley by Bow, the house derived its name from a member of the Tudor family who built it in the late sixteenth century adjoining the Old Palace and both were lovingly recorded by CR Ashbee in the first volume of the Survey of London in 1900.
The Survey was created by Ashbee, while he was living in Bow running the Guild of Handicrafts at Essex House (another sixteenth century house nearby that was demolished), in response to what he saw as the needless loss of the Old Palace and other important historic buildings. Today, only William Kent’s arch remains as a poignant vestige from a catalogue of destruction.

William Kent (1685 –1748) Architect, landscape and furniture designer
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Northumberland House by Canaletto, 1752
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Northumberland House shortly before demolition, 1874

William Kent’s arch in the grounds of the Tudor House, Bow, in 1900 with its attendant statues, as illustrated in the first volume of the Survey of London by CR Ashbee (Image courtesy Survey of London/ Bishopsgate Institute)

William Kent’s arch at St Leonard’s Street, Bromley by Bow
You may also like to read about
The Spitalfields Rebus
As an Easter treat we are offering 50% off all titles in the Spitalfields Life Bookshop with the discount code ‘EASTER’ until midnight on Easter Monday. Please click here to visit the bookshop


Contributing Artist ADAM DANT created this ingenious puzzle to amuse you while staying at home this Easter Monday. We will send a free Map of Spitalfields Life to everyone who submits the correct answers to spitalfieldslife@gmail.com before midnight. Be sure to include your postal address.
The answers are
1. SALT BEEF BEIGEL
2. TOYNBEE HALL
3. REPTON BOYS CLUB
4. PELLICCIS
5. MISTER PUSSY
6. SPITALFIELDS LIFE
7. GOLDFINCH
8. AURICULA
9. JELLIED EELS
10. GOLDEN HEART
11. BRICK LANE
12. MULBERRY
13. GARDNERS BAGS
14. WEAVERS
15. BISHOPSGATE INSTITUTE
Congratulations to those clever readers who successfully deduced the correct answers on Easter Monday. A copy of the Map of Spitalfields Life is on the way to each of them.
Julian Alubaidy
Geraldine Anslow
Doreen Baker
Michelle Balcombe
Douglas & Benita Brett
Paul Bolding
Rebecca Buisson
Amanda Bush
Rachel Butler
Joceline Bury
Sara & Monica Canullo
Kate Cassidy
Andrew Collingridge
Sharon Deadman
Professor Lina Drew
Annemarie Fearnley
James Finlay
Anne Flavell
Lee Gage
Sean Galvin
Deborah Geary
Julia Harrison
Michael Jarman
Lucy Kattenhorn
Fiona Larcombe
Jane Lees
Geneviève Letellier
Lena Marx
Eve McBride
Jane McChrystal
Keren McConnell
Gill Mitchell
Tim Molloy
Kate Noonan
David Oates
Julie Price
Susan Robinson
Alistair Ross
Sarah Salmon
Helen Simpson
Ann Smith
Alicia Stolliday
Rex Thornborough
Helen Tilley
Henrietta Varley
Sarah Winman
Rosie Williams
































