In Search Of The Alleys Of Old London
Almost a century later, I set out in the footsteps of Alan Stapleton seeking London’s Alleys, Byways & Courts that he drew and published in a book in 1923, which I first encountered in the archive at Bishopsgate Institute.
It is a title that is an invitation to one as susceptible as myself to meander through the capital’s forgotten thoroughfares, and my surprising discovery was how many of these have survived in recognisable form today.
Clearly a kindred spirit, Stapleton prefaces his work with the following quote from Dr Johnson (who lived in a square at the end of an alley) – ‘If you wish to have a notion of the magnitude of this great city, you must not be satisfied with seeing its great streets and squares, but survey its innumerable little lanes and courts.’

Jerusalem Passage, Clerkenwell

Jerusalem Passage, Clerkenwell

St John’s Passage, Clerkenwell

St John’s Passage, Clerkenwell

Passing Alley, Clerkenwell

Passing Alley, Clerkenwell

In Pear Tree Court, Clerkenwell

In Pear Tree Court, Clerkenwell

Faulkner’s Alley, Clerkenwell

Faulkner’s Alley, Clerkenwell

Red Lion Passage, Holborn

Red Lion Passage is now Lamb’s Conduit Passage, Holborn

Devereux Court, Strand

Devereux Court, Strand

Corner of Kingly St & Foubert’s Place, Soho

Corner of Kingly St & Foubert’s Place, Soho

Market St, Mayfair

Market St is now Shepherd Market, Mayfair

Crown Court, St James

Crown Court is now Crown Place, St James

Rupert Court, Soho

Rupert Court, Soho

Meard St, Soho

Meard St, Soho
Alan Stapleton’s images courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
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My Advanced Blog-Writing Course

On Sunday, I wrapped up the last of my ‘How to Write a Blog that People Will Want to Read’ courses that I have been undertaking for the past eight years in Spitalfields.
In March, I am running two Advanced Blog -Writing Courses for those who already have a blog and want to develop and refine it. I wrote privately to all the graduates of my previous courses and the demand was such that I am doing it twice.
This means there are a few places available on the weekend of 7th/8th March and on the weekend of 28th/29th March. If you already have a blog or have experience of writing, you are eligible and welcome to attend, just drop me a line to SpitalfieldsLife@gmail.com and I will send you the details.
This is your last chance to spend a weekend with me in an eighteenth century weaver’s house in Fournier St, enjoy delicious lunches, savour freshly baked cakes from historic recipes, discover the secrets of Spitalfields Life and learn how to improve your own blog.

East End Women Photographers
Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie has curated an exhibition of fellow female photographers who have photographed the East End, WE STAND TOGETHER, Women’s photographs of women 1970-2020. The show runs at the Brady Centre, Hanbury St, E1 5HU, from Monday 2nd until Saturday 28th March. All are welcome at the private view on Tuesday 3rd March from 6pm.

Marketa Luskacova – Street musicians

Marketa Luskacova – Three girls

Patricia Niven – Portrait of Jagir Kaur

Patricia Niven – Jagir Kaur in her Princelet St kitchen

Chris Kelly – Manda Helal at her Cable St allotment

Chris Kelly – Anwara Begum at her Cable St allotment

Rachel Ferriman – Portrait of Lucy Yates

Rachel Ferriman – Portrait of Alison Light

Moyra Peralta – Portrait of Peggy

Moyra Peralta – Portrait of Mary reading the Big Issue

Sarah Ainslie – Portrait of Emily Shepherd in her wardrobe

Sarah Ainslie – Portrait of Ruhela in her wardrobe

Tamara Rabea Still – Portrait of Leigh Mayo in Ridley Rd Market

Tamara Rabea Stoll – Portrair of Angelique in Ridley Rd Market

Lucinda Douglas Menzies – Portrait of Val Wilmer

Lucinda Douglas Menzies – Portrait of Lutfun Rahman at Spitalfields City Farm

Jenny Lewis – Portrait of Sonia with Florenca

Jenny Lewis – Portrait of Xanthe with Louie

Julie Cook – Portrait of Stacey Clare

Julie Cook – Portrait of Kitty Velour

Hussina Raja – Portraits of Mehreen Ahmed, Mohona Qadar & Riamaz-Saich

Hussina Raja – Portraits of Akuc Bol & Bel Odawa

Paula Roush – Blackchapel Flaneuse

Paula Roush – Blackchapel Flaneuses
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Alison Light’s Spitalfields
The writer and historian Alison Light spent fifteen formative years in Elder St, as she recounts in her new book A Radical Romance, A Memoir of Love, Grief & Consolation, exploring her marriage to the Marxist historian Raphael Samuel. Nadia Valman talked to her about the challenges and revelations of life in Spitalfields.

Portrait by Rachel Ferriman
I met Alison Light on a bright winter’s afternoon in White’s Row beside one of Spitalfields’ most shiny new developments. It could not have been more different from the Spitalfields that Alison remembered from her first visit to Elder St in 1984.
‘The old Liverpool St Station was very cavernous and confusing,’ she recalled, ‘with lots of brick parapets and walkways. You emerged at Broad St and you would have to find a way from there to Bishopsgate. I remember everything as dark. As you went past Spital Sq, you could see the hushed darkness of the market with its green Arts & Crafts ironwork and then you turned into an extremely dark road, which was Folgate St. There weren’t really any decent pavements but there were bollards and cobblestones everywhere.’
Alison was born in Portsmouth and the urban landscape she was familiar with was a Victorian suburb with its uniform terraces and parish landmarks of church and pub. Spitalfields felt very different: it was, she admitted, ‘a very easy place to get lost in.’
That day, a young scholar full of intellectual curiosity, Alison was on her way to a reading group at the home of Raphael Samuel, the charismatic historian twenty years her senior. Before long, Raphael would become her husband and 19 Elder St her home. Raphael had first moved to Elder St in the early sixties. ‘He came here,’ Alison explained, ‘because it was the oldest suburb in London and because he had family connections – his grandfather’s Jewish bookshop off Brick Lane, his mother had grown up off Wentworth Street, as a boy in the forties he campaigned here for the Communist Party – and for him there was the very deep historical layering of the place.’
But dramatic changes were afoot with the construction of Broadgate and the threat of further encroachment from the City. The rapid disappearance of local shops was bewildering. Alison and Raphael were among those who campaigned against the closure of fruit and vegetable market, even though it kept local residents awake in the early hours of the morning. ‘It wasn’t because we felt sentimental about the market,’ remembers Alison, ‘but because we knew it protected lots of local industry and a mix of jobs, and many others who were dependent on it in the neighbourhood. And it kept house prices down.’
Preserving the built environment has been an important theme in the last few decades in Spitalfields, so I was interested in how Alison and Raphael, as historians, felt about the Conservation movement. ‘Some of our neighbours were involved in squatting the threatened Georgian houses back in the seventies and Raphael supported that,’ Alison confirmed. ‘But,’ she admitted, ‘Conservationism was strange to me because I had grown up in an English working-class family and for me bare floorboards were a sign of poverty, something my family had struggled very hard to overcome. Refusing to have central heating struck me as astonishing … why would you want to live like that?’
So although they kept the floorboards bare and the toilet – ‘beautifully crafted by Jim Howett’ – stayed outside, Alison and Raphael were not purists. ‘The house wasn’t a period piece,’ insisted Alison, ‘and before I moved in Raphael had already Victorianised it quite a bit. He put up heavy velvet curtains and covered up a lot of panelling with books and files. He’d got a Victorian stove. He had a Victorian love of darkness and shade, so he planted ivy which took over the back of the house and made things even darker – absolutely not an eighteenth-century way to live.’
I found this especially revealing because Raphael Samuel was one of the first historians to analyse the heritage industry and especially the public fixation on Victoriana during the Thatcher years. But Alison’s additions – a Habitat table, a sofa and a fitted carpet in the bedroom – brought the twentieth century into the mix.
Alison evoked a vivid picture of living at 19 Elder St during the eighties and nineties: the cramped basement kitchen, noisy with gesticulating historians engaged in intense debate and the dusty groaning bookshelves in the dark upper rooms. In her calm and measured way, Alison reflected candidly, too, on how the house shaped the intimacies of their marriage.
‘I believe that where you live shapes your daily habits, and shapes what is and isn’t possible,’ she began. ‘I was always delighted by the fact that the house was full of books and was a place of learning.’ But it was built for multiple occupancy with one room on each floor, and that encouraged a kind of separateness.
Meanwhile the sound insulation was minimal, which made privacy impossible. ‘Lying in the bath,’ Alison remembered, ‘I could hear the Central Line rumbling underneath and Raphael overhead pounding away at the Olivetti’. The traffic on Bishopsgate and the colossal building site of Broadgate increased her feeling of being shut in. Trying to find a way to live amid the claustrophobia of 19 Elder St became overwhelming. ‘Spitalfields was also a place of breakdown,’ she revealed.
I wondered what impact the experience of living in Elder St had on Alison’s thinking as a scholar and writer. She considered the question carefully. ‘I started to think much more about what Englishness might or might not mean and that came from living with someone profoundly Jewish. The exchange of differences between us certainly got me thinking. And being in Spitalfields, with its rich mix of people, made me think in a more complex way about how there were different kinds of working classes. And feeling very displaced and isolated also became a way for me to put a distance between myself and my own family home.’
She explained how -in different ways – their research kept coming back to understanding the roots of English conservatism: the attachment to the past, fears of invasion, traditions of deference. These were urgent questions in the years of Tory government during the eighties and nineties, whose impact was being felt all over the East End.
After ten years of their marriage, Raphael died of cancer in 1996. One of the ways Alison kept herself going was writing her diary, which she described as a lifeline. Years later, it enabled her to recount in sharp detail the long and terrible process of mourning.
Alison continued to live in the house she had shared with Raphael. ‘I think what happens after a bereavement or a divorce is that you realise you want to live in the house in different ways, and then you realise you can leave it.’ She donated Raphael’s three thousand books to the University of East London where he had been a professor, and his papers to the Bishopsgate Institute, and the house began to open up. After seven years spent sorting through the prolific traces of Raphael’s life, oscillating between keeping things and letting them go, it was time to depart. Her voice lifts audibly when she remembers ‘feeling really pleased that the house had become a shell again, that someone else could do what they wanted to with it.’
One of the reasons Raphael Samuel loved Spitalfields was because he saw it as a place of, in his words, ‘Comers and Goers’ – beggars, wayfarers and vagrants. Living with Raphael and in Elder St had a lasting influence on Alison too.
‘It gave me a more historical turn of mind and got me thinking about what constitutes history,’ she reflected. ‘It was the oldest house I’d ever lived in and it felt on loan. I think that’s a good thing to feel. So many people had lived there and lived in very different ways. There were signs of them, like the Jewish mezuzahs on the door, or a little basin in the second-floor cupboard from when it was a lodging house in the fifties. You knew you were just passing through.’

Alison Light and Raphael Samuel celebrating their marriage in July 1987

Alison at her desk

Raphael at his desk

Elder St in the eighties

Alison Light
Portraits copyright © Rachel Ferriman
Raphael Samuel’s archive is held at the Bishopsgate Institute. The History Centre founded in his memory continues to organise lectures and seminars on public history for people in and beyond academia. For further information visit Raphael Samuel History Centre
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The Town House Open Exhibition
In recent years, the Town House Gallery in Spitalfields has made a reputation for bringing unjustly neglected artists to recognition such as Doreen Fletcher and Peri Parkes. Now curator Fiona Atkins is launching Town House Open to which all artists are invited to submit work on an East End theme by 5th April for exhibition this summer. The selection committee will be Fiona Atkins, David Buckman, Doreen Fletcher & The Gentle Author. CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS

Save The Chamber St Wall

This week Historic England refused the application to list the Chamber St wall and offer it protection, so now it may be destroyed. As the most visible and best preserved piece of shrapnel damage from World War II in the East End, this wall carries great significance for a lot of people and its loss would be a disaster. It is – in effect – a war memorial that commemorates the bombing of London and the East End, and the thousands who died and were injured.
Last year, Tower Hamlets approved a planning application to demolish the wall to make way for a hotel extension. Yet it would not be impossible for the hotel to be constructed around the wall, leaving it in place as a feature to remind future generations of the important history that it witnesses.
The developers say they propose to reassemble the wall on the site within a publicly accessible courtyard, although there will be no legal obligation for them to follow this through. I think it is clear from the photograph above, which shows the complex and subtle scarring of the wall, that any attempt to take it apart and rebuild it will destroy its value as an authentic relic.
Please write to the owner of the site, Henry Bartlett of Marldon Developments and ask him to build around the wall and not move it. Email hrbartlett@marldon.net Copy in the East End Preservation Society eastendpsociety@gmail.com so we know how many people have written.

Here is the current building which the developers want to extend, Prescott House, showing the Chamber St wall to the right

Here is the developer’s proposal for their hotel extension that will replace the wall of shrapnel damage with the location of the existing wall marked

Extract from Historic England’s explanation of their decision to refuse listing the wall
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Peta Bridle’s New Etchings
Since 2013, I have been regularly publishing Peta Bridle’s splendid drypoint etchings of London and it my pleasure to present this selection of recent works, many seen publicly for the first time here today.

Commercial Taxis, Commercial Rd, Limehouse
“This taxi office once stood in a parade of little shops and businesses, facing the busy Commercial Rd. But in 2018 the terraces on either side were pulled down, leaving the cab company stranded.”

The former Kings Head Pub, Three Colt St, Limehouse
“Today it is an ex-pub painted a striking cobalt blue with a golden angel hanging over the doorway, but in the thirties it was the premises of a banana merchant, B A Lambert.”

The former Lion Pub, Tapp St, Bethnal Green
“Now converted into housing, this old pub sits on a quiet backstreet next to a railway bridge and a faded Trumans sign still hangs on the wall.”

Manzes Pie & Mash, Deptford
“A traditional shopfront in dark green with gold lettering on black glass. This shop has been in the Manze family for over a century and they still make pies, mash and liquor daily.”

Goddards at Greenwich, Pie & Mash Shop
“My daughter Daisy enjoying cherry pie and a tea upstairs at Goddards, a family run business who have been making pie & mash since 1890.”

The Regal Cinema, Highams Park
“This fine art deco cinema first opened in 1911 as The Highams Park Electric Theatre but was renamed the Regal in 1928. Over the years it has been a bingo club and a snooker hall, before finally closing as a cinema in 1971. When I saw it last, it offered an excellent perch for pigeons to survey the road below.”

Morden Wharf, Greenwich
“I passed this former warehouse with its green sign on a walk along the Thames from Greenwich. The pathway is quiet and undeveloped as yet, and willow trees and long grasses line the bank. I believe Morden Wharf takes its name from landowners Morden College, established in 1700 by Sir John Morden with a gift of land.”

Chinese Cake Selection, Chinatown, Soho
“These cakes were bought in various shops around Chinatown. They are little works of art in themselves and very enjoyable to eat afterwards! Top row (left to right): red bean chess cake, red bean mini moon cake and lotus puff with salty egg yolk. Bottom row: taiyaki fish with red bean and mini lotus moon cake.”
View over Mare St, from St. Augustine’s Tower, Hackney
“I visited St Augustine’s Tower recently. Although I do not like heights, it was worth the struggle up the stairs for the view from the top. A man sat begging under the bridge while people on mobiles walked past, red buses turned the corner onto Mare St and the towers of the City huddled in the distance.”
George Davis is Innocent, Salmon Lane, Limehouse
“This graffiti has survived under a railway bridge, adorned with metal signs, since the seventies. I like graffiti and street art because it manifests the human touch. George Davis was an ex-armed robber who was imprisoned in 1975 for an armed payroll robbery at the London Electric Board Offices. Graffiti proclaiming his innocence can still be found on walls and railway arches.”
The Poplar Rates Rebellion Mural, Hale St, Poplar
“This bold mural, painted in primary colours, commemorates the rates rebellion led by councillor George Lansbury in 1921, pictured on the wall in his hat and chain of office. Poplar Council refused to take rates money off their poor residents because they believed it was unjust. Thirty councillors were imprisoned for contempt of court but were released after campaigning and their names are listed on the wall.”
The Thames Pub, Deptford
“This derelict pub, once know as the Rose & Crown, sits on the corner of Thames St and Norway St, and has been painted a deep rose hue. It is surrounded by new building and a brand new supermarket across the road, so I think its days are numbered.”
Petro Lube, Silvertown
“This derelict building, once the headquarters of Petro Lube, stands on an industrial estate in Silvertown. Note the building works in the background – (a common theme in many of these etchings).”
Abandoned Caravan, Poplar
“This caravan had been abandoned at the side of a minor road near the tip. When I returned a few weeks later to take reference shots, I discovered it in pieces piled on top of a skip. Nothing stands still in London.”
Gasometer, Bow Creek, Poplar
“I spotted this Victorian gasometer while out for a walk along Bow Creek. It was already partially dismantled and, when I returned a couple of months later, it had totally disappeared.”
Abandoned Nissan, Chapman St, Shadwell
“This car is not going anywhere, but I found it made a good subject with its graffittied bonnet and crazed windscreen.”
Spur Inn Yard, off Borough High St, Southwark
“Borough High St was once lined with inns . The Spur Inn, first recorded on a map in 1542, was desrcibed by John Stow as one of the ‘fayre Innes for receipt of travellers.’ It stood the test of time, even though it ceased to be an inn in 1848. A huge wooden beam was set into the left hand wall as you enter under the high archway and, on the right, timber frames criss-crossed the brickwork. The cobbled yard was narrow yet quite beautiful. This is the view from the back of the yard looking towards Borough High St. The tarpaulin at the top hides the roof and chimney stack, prior to demolition. Spur Inn Yard was swept aside to be replaced by a new hotel which opened in 2017. All that remains is the timber set into the wall and the old stone cart tracks.”
Prints copyright © Peta Bridle
Some of Peta Bridle’s etchings are on exhibition at Southwark Cathedral until 20th March
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