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Ron McCormick’s Spitalfields

March 24, 2024
by the gentle author

If you are at a loose end over the forthcoming Easter holidays and looking for an excuse for a walk, why not join me for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on Easter Thursday 28th March at 2pm or THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON on Easter Monday 1st April at 2pm?

CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR EASTER TREAT

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Ron McCormick took these splendid pictures when he lived in Princelet St in the seventies

Knifegrinder, Spitalfields

Fishman’s tobacconist & sweet shop, Flower & Dean St, Spitalfields

Entrance to Chevrah Shass Synagogue, Old Montague St

Clock seller, Sclater St

Dressed up for the Sunday market, Cheshire St

Maurice, Gents’ Hairdresser, Buxton St

Gunthorpe St

Club Row

Steps down to Black Lion Yard, Old Montague St

Old Castle St, Synagogue

Sunday market, Cheshire St

Corner of Gun St & Artillery Lane

Shopkeeper, Old Montague St

Inter-generational conflict on Princelet St

Goldstein’s Kosher Butcher & Poulterer, Old Montague St

Great Eastern Buildings, Quaker St

Convenience Store, Artillery Lane

Soup Kitchen for the Jewish Poor, Brune St

Alf’s Fish Bar, Brick Lane

Waiting for the night shelter to open, Christ Church Spitalfields

Resting, Spitalfields Market Barrows, Commercial St

Great Eastern Buildings, Quaker St

Rough sleeper, Spitalfields

Mother and her new-born baby in a one bedroom flat, Spitalfields

Photographs copyright © Ron McCormick

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Ron McCormick’s Whitechapel

The Coal Holes Of London

March 23, 2024
by the gentle author

If you are at a loose end over the forthcoming Easter holidays and looking for an excuse for a walk, why not join me for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on Easter Thursday 28th March at 2pm or THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON on Easter Monday 1st April at 2pm?

CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR EASTER TREAT

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These hundred and fifty drawings of cast iron plate covers for coal chutes were sketched by a young medical student, Dr Shephard Taylor, while studying at King’s College Hospital in the Strand in 1863. “I determined to try to reproduce them on paper, and, although I had no particular artistic skill or genius, I found no great difficulty in making a fair sketch of the more simple devices,” he admitted proudly. Whether Dr Taylor was a purist who omitted those with their maker’s names because he preferred abstract design or whether he simply could not do lettering, we shall never know.

Dr Taylor was ninety years old before his cherished designs were published in 1929 and he christened them Opercula, which means a cover or a lid. I will give a prize to anyone that can send me a photograph of any of these opercula drawn by Dr Taylor still in its location today.

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The Manhole Covers of Spitalfields

Older Women Of Whitechapel

March 22, 2024
by the gentle author

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Join me on Easter Monday, April 1st, for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON. Meet me on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral at 2pm. We will walk eastward together through the Square Mile to explore the wonders and the wickedness of the City. Photo courtesy of Bishopsgate Institute

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CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKET

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Photographing daily on the streets of Spitalfields and Whitechapel for thirty years, Phil Maxwell took hundreds of pictures of older women – of which I publish a selection of favourites here today. Some of these photos were taken over thirty years ago now and a couple were taken recently, revealing both the continuity of their presence and the extraordinary tenacity for life demonstrated by these proud specimens of the female sex in the East End. Endlessly these women trudge the streets with trolleys and bags, going about their business in all weathers, demonstrating an indomitable spirit as the world changes around them, and becoming beloved sentinels of the territory.

“As a street photographer, you cannot help but take photos of these ladies.” Phil admitted, speaking with heartfelt tenderness for his subjects, “In a strange kind of way, they embody the spirit of the street because they’ve been treading the same paths for decades and seen all the changes. They have an integrity that a youth or a skateboarder can’t have, which comes from their wealth of experience and, living longer than men, they become the guardians of the life of the street.”

“Some are so old that you have an immediate respect for them. These are women who have worked very hard all their lives and you can see it etched on their faces, but what some would dismiss as the marks of old age I would describe as the beauty of old age. The more lines they have, the more beautiful they are to me. You can just see that so many stories and secrets are contained by those well-worn features.”

“I remember my darkroom days with great affection, because there was nothing like the face of an old lady emerging from the negative in the darkroom developer – it was as if they were talking to me as their faces began to appear. There is a magnificence to them.”

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Photographs copyright © Phil Maxwell

See more of Phil Maxwell’s work here

Phil Maxwell on the Tube

Phil Maxwell & Sandra Esqulant, Photographer & Muse

Phil Maxwell’s Brick Lane

The Cat Lady of Spitalfields

Phil Maxwell, Photographer

The Dioramas Of Petticoat Lane

March 21, 2024
by the gentle author

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Join me on Easter Monday, April 1st, for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON. Meet me on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral at 2pm. We will walk eastward together through the Square Mile to explore the wonders and the wickedness of the City. Photo courtesy of Bishopsgate Institute

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CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKET

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When the landlord of The Bell in Petticoat Lane wrote to say he had discovered some neglected old models of Spitalfields in the cellar, I hurried over to take a look. Once upon a time, these beautiful dioramas enjoyed pride of place in the barroom but by then they had been consigned to oblivion.

Although hefty and dusty and in need of a little repair, nevertheless they were skilfully made and full of intriguing detail, and deserved to be seen. Thanks to the enlightened curatorial policy of Archivist Stefan Dickers, today they enjoy a permanent home in the reading room at the Bishopsgate Institute where they can visited during opening hours.

I am always curious to learn more of this southerly corner of Spitalfields closest to the City that gives up its history less readily than some other parts, but where the market dates from the twelfth century – much older than that on the northern side of the parish which was not granted its charter until the seventeenth century. The Bell, topped off by a grotesque brick relief of a bell with a human face and adorned with panels of six thousand bottle tops by Robson Cezar, King of the Bottletops, has always fascinated me. Once the only pub in Petticoat Lane, it can be dated back to 1842 and may be much earlier since a Black Bell Alley stood upon this site in the eighteenth century.

I first saw the dioramas in the cellar of The Bell, when the landlord dragged them out for me to examine, one by one, starting with the largest. There are four – three square boxes and one long box, depicting Petticoat Lane Market and The Bell around a hundred years ago. In the market diorama, stalls line up along Middlesex St selling books and rolls of cloth and provisions, while a priest and a policemen lecture a group of children outside the pub. In total, more than thirty individually modelled and painted clay figures are strategically arranged to convey the human drama of the market. By contrast, the square boxes are less panoramic in ambition, one portrays the barroom of The Bell, one the cellar of The Bell and another shows a drayman with his wagon outside the Truman Brewery in Brick Lane, with a steam train crossing the railway bridge in the background.

A discreet plate on each diorama reveals the maker as Howard Kerslake’s model studio of Southend, a professional model maker’s pedigree that explains the sophisticated false perspectives and clever details such as the elaborate lamp outside The Bell – and the stuffed fish, the jar of pickled onions and the lettered mirror in the barroom – and the easy accomplishment of ambitious subjects such as the drayman’s cart with two horses in Brick Lane.

Nowadays, the dioramas have been dusted down and cleaned up and I recommend a visit to examine them for yourself.

Click on this picture to enlarge the diorama of Petticoat Lane

At the Truman Brewery Brick Lane, looking north

The barroom of The Bell

The cellar of The Bell

The Bell in the 1930s

You may like to read these other Petticoat Lane stories

Postcards from Petticoat Lane

Dennis Anthony’s Photographs of Petticoat Lane

Laurie Allen of Petticoat Lane

Irene & Ivan Kingsley, Market Traders of Petticoat Lane

Henry Jones, Jones Dairy

The Artists Of The East India Company

March 20, 2024
by Geoff Quilley

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The shadow of the East India Company looms large over Spitalfields. For it was to bring goods from the East India Dock that Commercial St was cut through the neighbourhood in the nineteenth century and, ultimately, it is why we have a large Bengali community here today.

Geoff Quilley, Emeritus Professor of Art History at Sussex University, will giving a lecture on this subject as part of the Spitalfields Series on Tuesday 2nd April at 7pm in the Hanbury Hall.

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CLICK HERE TO BOOK FOR PROFESSOR QUILLEY’S LECTURE

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Colonel Mordaunt’s Cock Match by John Zoffany 1784-8

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The English East India Company was established by royal charter in 1600, giving it a monopoly on trading rights to the seemingly limitless natural resources offered by India and Asia, particularly in lucrative commodities of spices. However, it was not until the eighteenth century that the Company shifted in status from being a wealthy corporation of private maritime traders to the East, to becoming a financial concern of national significance, influencing government policy and being a decisive factor in the national economy. Above all, following the British victories in India during the Seven Years War (1756-63), and the Treaty of Allahabad of 1765, by which the Mughal Emperor granted it the right of diwani, or the collection of land tax in Bihar and Bengal, the Company became a territorial power in India rather than just a maritime commercial organisation, and established its base at Calcutta, the centre of what would rapidly become British India.

This marked the start of the massive expansion of British settlement in India, from the late eighteenth and throughout the nineteenth centuries, culminating with India coming under formal crown control from 1858, following the Indian Rebellion. Prior to this date, colonial administration was undertaken through the East India Company, which assumed a complex and controversial dual role, as a commercial company answerable to its shareholders and Board of Directors, and also as the arm of British government across the subcontinent.

One of the most remarkable features of the Company’s meteoric rise is that this trading organisation, which would develop into ‘the corporation that changed the world’, as one historian has described it, operated in its early days out of relatively humble premises only a short walk from Spitalfields, in Leadenhall St, where it remained until it was wound up, thus placing the City of London for the first time at the centre of a global, commercial and imperial network. In return, its global enterprise permeated all corners of London and City life: the leading brewery Truman, Hanbury & Buxton, for example, was the supplier to the Company in the nineteenth century.

The increase of British settlement of India from around 1770 with a population of Company employees and associates, who were enabled to make huge fortunes very rapidly, opened up other commercial opportunities, not least to the growing profession of artists in Britain. Artists both saw the chance to exploit the Company in India as a source of patronage, but were also used by the Company and its individual officers as a means of representing its changing public image, and its encounters and relations with Indian rulers and culture.

With the establishment of the Royal Academy in 1768, there was a notable parallel between the growth of the Company and the expansion of British art. Yet making this parallel has significant implications, as it opens up a shift of focus away from the RA’s dominance of British art history, towards the City and its commercial imperatives. It reminds us as well that the precursors of the RA, the Society of Artists, Free Society of Artists, even the Foundling Hospital, were City-based institutions, set up and run by commercially-minded individuals, with a significant philanthropic intent. Artists in these early years often had City connections, through family or patronage, and were also among the first to take up the commercial and artistic opportunities offered by the rise of the East India Company.

Tilly Kettle, for example, left for India in the late 1760s and quickly developed a reputation as a clever and resourceful portrait painter, producing images of Company officials in India and local nawabs that negotiated the tricky and delicate relations between established Mughal rule and Company claims to power, presenting it as one of mutual commercial benefit, and depicting figures such as the Nawab of Arcot as both independent ruler and also as ally of the British, on whose credit he was dependent.

Muhammad Ali Khan, Nawab of Arcot by Tilly Kettle 1772-6

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Similarly, Johan Zoffany, who worked in India in the 1780s, developed a novel adaptation of the genre of the conversation-piece, to depict the particular character of Anglo-Indian society, and the social relations between British and Indian culture: so that a painting such as Colonel Mordaunt’s Cock Match becomes a complex allegory of the colonial encounter in the cultural melting-pot of Lucknow.

Other artists focussed less on the people in British India, and more on the landscape coming increasingly under British control. William Hodges was the first professional European landscape painter in India, and under the patronage of the first Governor-General, Warren Hastings, made several tours in the 1780s through north-east India, making records of the landscape and monuments of Hindu, Muslim and British India. More than simply topographical records of the landscape, his views provide commentaries on the history of the country through its architectural heritage, so that his view of the tomb of the great sixteenth-century Mughal Emperor Akbar is seen both as witness to the passing of a once great empire, and also as a homage to Hastings’ own governance, which was partly modelled on Akbar’s own imperial administration.

A View of the Gate of the Tomb of the Emperor Akbar at Secundra by William Hodges, engraved by John Browne 1786

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Hodges’s example was quickly followed by Thomas and William Daniell, who made a career from their travels through India, producing albums of prints after drawings made on the spot with the camera obscura, and published both in India and Britain. These represented the expanding territories coming under British control throughout the 1790s for a domestic audience, and also painted a positive image of Company commercial growth, through images of its factories and warehouses at Canton, the focus of the Company’s ambitions to penetrate the China market.

The European Factories at Canton by Thomas Daniell 1806

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The Company’s territorial expansion was achieved through military conquest which was commemorated in sensational, triumphalist imagery, most notably in the ongoing battles with Tipu Sultan of Mysore throughout the 1790s, including sentimental images of Tipu’s sons being taken as hostages by the British.

Lord Cornwallis receiving the Sons of Tipu Sultan as Hostages by Robert Home 1793-4

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Tipu was finally defeated at the Battle of Seringapatam in 1798 and the trophies from his looted palace brought back to London, such as his notorious mechanical model, Tipu’s Tiger, which was exhibited in London in the Company’s own India Museum.

Tipu’s Tiger, c.1793

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The Company’s maritime interests also opened up opportunities for marine artists, such as Thomas Luny, producing celebratory images of East Indiamen of growing size and tonnage as the Company’s transport of goods and merchandise increased. It also provided opportunities for amateur artists, such as Thomas Forrest, who combined his expertise in navigation with his interest in natural history, to produce accounts of South-East Asian geography with a view to expanding Company bases and shipping routes throughout Indonesia as far south as Papua New Guinea.

View of Dory Harbour on New Guinea by Thomas Forrest 1779

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Meanwhile, the rapidly changing and complex character of the Company was represented at home in London through a public profile centred on its commercial headquarters in Leadenhall Street, rebuilt in the 1730s as a modern, efficient, commercial organisation of national significance, and representing its activities allegorically through sculpture and paintings epitomised by Rysbrack’s chimney-piece depicting the Company as the means to British prosperity.

Britannia receiving the Riches of the East by John Michael Rysbrack c.1730

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Artists were involved in a variety of ways with the East India Company over the course of more than a century at the height of the development of British art. They represented the cultural encounter with India as British settlement there expanded and portrayed the Company as it would have like to be seen, offering a positive image of overseas colonial commerce that was in direct contrast to the controversial reputation of Company practice – whether through its adverse impact on the Indian population, or its central involvement in the opium trade, or in its constant financial scandals, which required regular bailing out by the British government, like the banks in 2008, as a commercial organisation too big to fail.

We need to ask why the Company is still largely peripheral to the understanding of British art. Given its centrality to the expansion of the British empire, this is surely has to do with the uncomfortable truths presented by our colonial past and the larger dissociation of the history of art from the history of empire. However, the current surge of interest in – and urgent debates around – the links between colonialism and heritage, and the place of empire in British identity, invites a rethinking of the place of the East India Company in British cultural history and its roots in the City of London.

East India House, Leadenhall St, attributed to John Michael Rysbrack, 1711

The Gentle Author’s Coin Collection

March 19, 2024
by the gentle author

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Join me on Easter Monday, April 1st, for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON. Meet me on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral at 2pm. We will walk eastward together through the Square Mile to explore the wonders and the wickedness of the City. Photo courtesy of Bishopsgate Institute

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CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKET

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In 1999, I bought a coin from a street trader at the time of the excavation of the Roman cemetery in Spitalfields. In 1576, John Stow wrote about the Roman coins that were dug up here in Spitalfields and I suspect mine came from the same source. A visit to the British Museum confirmed that the coin had been minted in London and the piercing was done in the Roman era when it was the custom to wear coins as amulets. Somebody wore this coin in London all those centuries ago and although I will never know who they were, now I wear it for them on a string around my neck, to give me a sense of perspective.

As you can see, my collection has grown as I have discovered that coin collectors are eager to dispose of pierced coins at low prices and I have taken on the responsibility of wearing them on behalf of their previous owners.

It was only when the string broke in Princelet St one dark night in the rain at Christmas and I found myself scrabbling in the gutter to retrieve them all that I realised how much they mean to me.

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Coin of the Emperor Arcadius minted in London

Figure of Minerva upon the reverse

Silver sixpence minted at the Tower of London, 1569

Head of Queen Elizabeth and Tudor rose

Silver sixpence minted at the Tower of London, 1602

Head of Elizabeth

Silver sixpence, 1676

Head of Charles II

Farthing, 1749

Head of George II

Silver sixpence, 1758

Head of George II

Young Queen Victoria

Half Farthing, 1844

Head of Queen Victoria

Silver sixpence, 1896

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The Gates Of The City Of London

March 18, 2024
by the gentle author

Join me on Easter Monday, April 1st, for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF THE CITY OF LONDON. Meet me on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral at 2pm. We will walk eastward together through the Square Mile to explore the wonders and the wickedness of the City.

CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKET

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The City Gates As They Appeared Before They Were Torn Down, engraved for Harrison’s History of London 1775

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I am delighted to show you this eighteenth century print that I came across in the Spitalfields Market for a couple of pounds with the plangent title “The City Gates As They Appeared Before They Were Torn Down.”

Printed in 1775, this plate recorded venerable edifices that had been demolished in recent decades and was reproduced in Harrison’s History of London, a publication notable for featuring Death and an Hourglass upon the title page as if to emphasise the mutable, ever-changing nature of the capital and the brief nature of our residence in it.

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Moorgate (demolished 1761)

Aldgate (demolished 1761)

Bishopsgate (demolished 1760)

Cripplegate (demolished 1760)

Ludgate (demolished 1760)

Newgate (demolished 1767)

Aldersgate (demolished 1617)

Bridgegate (demolished 1762)

Sixteenth century figures of King Lud and his sons that formerly stood upon Ludgate, and stowed ever since in an alley at the side of St Dunstan in the West, Fleet St

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The Gates of Old London