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Harry Levenson, Bookmaker

January 27, 2013
by the gentle author

These are just some of the bouncing cheques presented by inveterate gambler Sidney Breton to Spitalfields’ first Bookmaker Harry Levenson and preserved today by his son David Levenson as momentos, eternally uncashed. Indicative of the scale of the compulsion, David has over a thousand pounds worth of these cheques dating from an era when the average salary was just £4 a week.

Before 1961, it was illegal to accept bets off the racecourse and there were no Betting Shops, only Commission Agents who – in theory – passed the bets onto the Bookmakers at the courses. Yet the Bookie’s Agents often took bets themselves, resulting in a lucrative business that existed in the shadows, and consequently – David Levenson revealed to me – the police took regular backhanders off his dad, until the change in the law. After that, Harry was able to obtain a permit and operate legally from his premises on the first floor at 13 Whites Row, conveniently placed for all the bettors who worked in the Spitalfields Market and Truman’s Brewery, as well as the passing trade down Commercial St.

David came to Spitalfields recently and we made a pilgrimage together to Whites Row to find the site of his late father’s betting shop, and  I learnt that Harry’s career as a Bookmaker was just one in a series of interventions of chance that had informed the family history.

“My father was born in 1919 and grew up in Regal Place off Old Montague St. His father Hyman, a tailor, came from Latvia and his mother Sarah came from Lithuania or Belarus, and they met in London. I once asked my father why his parents came here but he said they never wanted to talk about it, and I knew about the pogroms against the Jews, so I imagine there were pretty bad things.

I think it was a tough childhood, but when my father spoke of it, it was with fondness. After school – he told me – he used to walk to his grandparents’ house and sit on the step and wait for his grandfather to come home from work, and his grandfather used to take him to buy sweets.

My dad told me he was there, standing with the other Jewish boys, when Mosley tried to march through Whitechapel in 1936 and he said all they had was rolled up copies of the News of the World to defend themselves.

His elder brother, Sam, had a barber’s shop and after he left school in the late thirties my dad went to work with him until war broke out, when my dad was twenty. He was the most peaceable man you could meet, but when he joined the army he said, “I want to fight at once, I don’t want to march about.” So they recruited him into the Isle of Man Regiment and he served as a gunner on a Bofors Gun. He became one of only forty soldiers from his Battery to escape alive from the battleground of Crete – none of the Jews that were captured ever returned. In January 1943, he suffered serious shrapnel wounds when several of his fellow gunners were killed by a direct aircraft attack near Tripoli. Then his father, Hyman, died while Harry was recuperating but he did not find out until months later when his brother Sam broke the news in a letter in July.

When my father came back on leave, he found just a bombsite where Regal Place had been and all the flats were destroyed. But he discovered the family had gone to Nathaniel Buildings in Flower & Dean St and everybody was safe. Incredibly, the bomb had fallen on the only night his father had ever gone to the shelter. They were calling out in the street for, “Any off-duty soldiers?” and my father spent his entire leave searching for bodies in bombed-out buildings.

I could see no relationship in my father’s life to what he had been through in the war – I think he wanted to start again. Afterwards, he simply went back to work in his brother’s barber shop. He learnt to cut hair and became a barber. He started getting tips for horses, so he phoned up his other brother who worked in a betting office and placed bets. There were no betting shops at the time – it was illegal – but people asked my father, “Why don’t you take bets yourself?” And as more as more people came to place bets than to have their hair cut, he was making more money from being a bookmaker than a barber. Because it wasn’t legal, he wasn’t paying tax, and he was walking around with thousands of pounds in his pocket. But you could never call our family wealthy, we were just middle class. So it is a mystery to me where the money went.

When my mother, Ivy, met him he was flush with cash and he used to drive a Jowett Javelin. She thought he was a millionaire. Although he was brought up Jewish, she was Church of England, so I am not Jewish and he never made any attempt to bring me up in the faith.

In 1961, the law changed and my dad obtained the first Bookmaker’s permit in Spitalfields. He moved the business out to Gospel Oak when I was about two, but he used to bring me back with him whenever he came visit his friend Dave Katz who had a factory making trousers off Commercial St. I remember walking around the streets when I was four or five years old, Spitalfields was frightening to a boy from the suburbs. It was a strange place.

My dad never gambled because he saw people lose all their money, and I’ve only ever had a little flutter myself –  but my mother is ninety-three and she says it’s what keeps her going.”

[youtube Kl5KZcMhH24 nolink]

Harry Levenson speaks in 2002, recalling compulsive gambler Sidney Breton.

Harry Levenson obtained the first bookmaker’s permit in Spitalfields in 1961.

Harry’s grandparents, Morris & Sarah Moliz.

Harry’s parents, Hyman & Sarah Levenson of Regal Place, Spitalfields,

Harry holds the card in his class photo at Robert Montefiore School, Deal St. c. 1925.

Harry at his Bar Mitzvah, Great Garden St Synagogue, Spitalfields, 1932.

Harry (left) with an army pal in Cairo, September 1941. On the reverse he wrote, “I wish this had been taken outside Vallance Rd Park instead.”

Harry & Ivy Levenson at their marriage in 1957.

Harry  takes Ivy for a spin in his Jowett Javelin.

Harry’s synagogue card, which lapsed in 1957 at the time of his marriage.

Harry returns to Old Montague St in 1980.

Harry revisits the site of Regal Place, off Old Montague St, where he was born in 1919.

Harry at Vallance Rd Park.

Harry reunited with an army comrade on the Isle of Man in 1989.

Harry with his granddaughter Katy in 2005.

David Levenson revisits 13 Whites Row where his father ran the first betting shop in Spitalfields.

Adam Dant’s Map of Industrious Shoreditch

January 26, 2013
by the gentle author

Click twice to enlarge and study the details of Industrious Shoreditch

A century before the New Industries that define Shoreditch today, there were once the Old Industries. Then, small manufacturers and their suppliers occupied every building, and the neighbourhood teemed with skilled workers and craftsmen who made things with their hands. Cartographer extraordinaire Adam Dant celebrates this culture with his Map of Industrious Shoreditch, 1912.

“I chose 1912 because it precedes the First World War, when everything changed. It encapsulates Industrious Shoreditch,” explained Adam, “I started off with the major landmarks serving the industries of the time. For the main thoroughfares, I listed the concentrations of manufacturers, using lists of companies from the Post Office Directories. These are complemented by vignettes of people making things, and I filled the border with machines used for wood and metalwork.”

After the First World War, many of the industries moved to larger factories outside London and the twentieth century saw the decline of manufacturing in Shoreditch, with the hardware shops and suppliers of raw materials being the last to go, holding on even into recent decades. Now that Shoreditch is booming again with new technology companies occupying many of the old buildings once used for manufacturing, Adam Dant’s map offers us a poignant opportunity to explore that lost world of industriousness.

You will discover mattress makers, french polishers, feather dyers, hatters, bootmakers, chandlers, over-mantle manufacturers, cabinet makers, coach builders, wood turners, corset makers, and more…

Adam Dant goes in search of Industrious Shoreditch

Map copyright © Adam Dant

You may like to take a look at some of Adam Dant’s other maps

Map of Hoxton Square

Hackney Treasure Map

Map of the History of Shoreditch

Map of Shoreditch in the Year 3000

Map of Shoreditch as New York

Map of Shoreditch as the Globe

Map of Shoreditch in Dreams

Map of the History of Clerkenwell

Map of the Journey to the Heart of the East End

Map of the History of Rotherhithe

Click here to buy a copy of The Map of Spitalfields Life drawn by Adam Dant with descriptions by The Gentle Author

Clive Murphy, Phillumenist

January 25, 2013
by the gentle author

Clive Murphy, Phillumenist

Nothing about this youthful photo of the novelist, oral historian and writer of ribald rhymes, Clive Murphy – resplendent here in a well-pressed tweed suit and with his hair neatly brushed – would suggest that he was a Phillumenist. Even people who have known him since he came to live in Spitalfields in 1973 never had an inkling. In fact, evidence of his Phillumeny only came to light recently when Clive donated his literary archive to the Bishopsgate Institute and a non-descript blue album was uncovered among his papers, dating from the era of this picture and with the price ten shillings and sixpence still written in pencil in the front.

I was astonished when I saw the beautiful album and so I asked Clive to tell me the story behind it. “I was a Phillumenist,” he admitted to me in a whisper, “But I broke all the rules in taking the labels off the matchboxes and cutting the backs off matchbooks. A true Phillumenist would have a thousand fits to see my collection.” It was the first time Clive had examined his album of matchbox labels and matchbook covers since 1951 when, at the age of thirteen, he forsook Phillumeny – a diversion that had occupied him through boarding school in Dublin from 1944 onwards.

“A memory is coming back to me of a wooden box that I made in carpentry class which I used to keep them in, until I put them in this album,” said Clive, getting lost in thought, “I wonder where it is?” We surveyed page after page of brightly-coloured labels from all over the world pasted in neat rows and organised by their country of origin, inscribed by Clive with blue ink in a careful italic hand at the top of each leaf. “I have no memory of doing this.” he confided to me as he scanned his handiwork in wonder,“Why is the memory so selective?”

“I was ill-advised and I do feel sorry in retrospect that they are not as a professional collector would wish,” he concluded with a sigh, “But I do like them for all kinds of other reasons, I admire my method and my eye for a pattern, and I like the fact that I occupied myself – I’m glad I had a hobby.”

We enjoyed a quiet half hour, turning the pages and admiring the designs, chuckling over anachronisms and reflecting on how national identities have changed since these labels were produced. Mostly, we delighted at the intricacy of thought and ingenuity of the decoration once applied to something as inconsequential as matches.

“There was this boy called Spring-Rice whose mother lived in New York and every week she sent him a letter with a matchbox label in the envelope for me.” Clive recalled with pleasure, “We had breaks twice each morning at school, when the letters were given out, and how I used to long for him to get a letter, to see if there was another label for my collection.” The extraordinary global range of the labels in Clive’s album reflects the widely scattered locations of the parents of the pupils at his boarding school in Dublin, and the collection was a cunning ploy that permitted the schoolboy Clive to feel at the centre of the world.

“You don’t realise you’re doing something interesting, you’re just doing it because you like pasting labels in an album and having them sent to you from all over the world.” said Clive with characteristic self-deprecation, yet it was apparent to me that Phillumeny prefigured his wider appreciation of what is otherwise ill-considered in existence. It is a sensibility that found full expression in Clive’s exemplary work as an oral historian, recording the lives of ordinary people with scrupulous attention to detail, and editing and publishing them with such panache.

Clive Murphy, Phillumenist

Images courtesy of the Clive Murphy Archive at the Bishopsgate Institute

You may like to read my other stories about Clive Murphy

Clive Murphy, Writer

A Walk With Clive Murphy

At Clive Murphy’s Flat

Clive Murphy’s oral histories are available from Labour and Wait

and his ribald rhymes are available from Rough Trade

Tony Hall’s East End Panoramas

January 24, 2013
by the gentle author

In the sixties, Tony Hall bought a Horizont camera of Russian manufacture that was designed for taking panoramic photographs and he used it to take these magnificent pictures of East End streets, published today for the first time. Originally trained as a painter, Tony Hall became a newspaper artist in Fleet St and pursued photography in the afternoons between shifts.

“He’d always been passionate about wide-angle lenses, it was his landscape painter’s background – he had a painter’s eye,” Libby Hall, Tony’s wife revealed to me, “When he was sixteen, his paintings were accepted for the Royal Academy but he wanted to do something different, so he gave it up in favour of commercial art and photography.”

The Horizont camera had a lens that rotated in sync with the shutter to create a panoramic view, but they were unreliable and, when the lens became out of sync with the shutter, patches of light and dark appeared on the image. Tony bought three cameras in the hope of getting one to work consistently and in the end he gave up, yet by then he had achieved this bravura series of pictures which emphasise the linear qualities of the cityscape to dramatic effect.

“Tony loved tools of all sorts and he always said that if you had the tool you could work out how to use it,” Libby recalled, “He was very frustrated by the Horizont, but he was very pleased when it worked.”

It is the special nature of Tony Hall’s photographic vision that he saw the human beauty within an architectural environment which others sought to condemn and, half a century later, his epic panoramas show us the East End of the nineteen sixties as we never saw it before.

Click on any of the photographs below to enlarge and enjoy the full panoramic effect.

Corner of Middleton Rd & Haggerston Rd

Haggerston Rd

Old Montague St & Black Lion Yard

Old Montague St

Hessel St

Corner of Lyal Rd & Stanfield Rd

Corner of Lyal Rd & Stanfield Rd

Bridge House, Tredegar Rd

Sclater St

Leopold Buildings, Columbia Rd

Pearson St & Appleby St

Corner of Well St & Holcroft Rd

Hackney Rd

St Leonards Rd

St Leonards Rd

Photographs copyright © Libby Hall

Images Courtesy of the Tony Hall Archive at the Bishopsgate Institute

Libby Hall & I would be delighted if any readers can assist in identifying the locations and subjects of Tony Hall’s photographs.

You may also like to read

Tony Hall, Photographer

At the Pub with Tony Hall

At the Shops with Tony Hall

Libby Hall, Collector of Dog Photography

The Dogs of Old London

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits (Part 6)

January 23, 2013
by the gentle author

With the icy blast howling through the East End, Contributing Photographer Colin O’Brien and I had no choice but to seek refuge at E.Pellicci, London’s best-loved family run cafe, at 332 Bethnal Green Rd. We arrived at seven o’clock and tucked in to bacon and eggs before dawn, and then Colin set to work to make these portraits of the early birds.

Quentin Croucher – “I’ve been coming here all my life…”

Daniella Parker – “I first came to Pelliccis five years ago and now I come once or twice a month.”

Terry Martin – “I first came here thirty years ago and I’ve been a regular for twenty-five years.”

Samantha Lomonaco – “I’m American but I’m visiting from Japan, I’ve come all the way from Tokyo to get real cannelloni.”

Joseph Surry, Specialist Lead Plumber “I first came here about four years ago, and now I drop in whenever I’m passing through or doing a job locally.”

Micha Kanis – “I discovered this place two years  ago and now I come here when I’m hung over – I haven’t had any sleep, I’ve been up all night drinking Jack Daniels.”

Miah Anhar – “I’ve been coming to Pelliccis for a long time, quite a few years. I come every day for breakfast and then tea. The staff are very good and always happy.”

Paul Tremmel – “I’ve been coming here for two years and I come once a week. I am Maria Pellicci’s neighbour.”

Kevin Brennan “I’ve been coming in here for fifteen years, I come in here a lot.”

Chris Punter, Artist – “My first time here!”

Liz Seabrook “I just got here two minutes ago. It’s beautiful, very atmospheric, and the food looks good.”

Mark Mulcahy, Musician – “This is my favourite place in London. I come here every seven years.”

Michaela Cucchi – “I’m forty-six and I’ve been coming to Pelliccis since I was forty-tw0. My grandparents used to come in here.”

Joseph De’Ath – “I’m only young, I’ve been coming three years. I come every day for lunch.”

Bruna Pellicci – “I used to do the washing up in here when I was seven years old. Now I come in every morning on my way to work, I’m a computer administrator for a law firm.”

Photographs copyright © Colin O’Brien

You may like to take a look at

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits ( Part One)

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits (Part Two)

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits (Part Three)

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits (Part Four)

Colin O’Brien’s Pellicci Portraits (Part Five)

and read these other Pellicci stories

Maria Pellicci, Cook

Pellicci’s Celebrity Album

Pellicci’s Collection

Maria Pellicci, The Meatball Queen of Bethnal Green

Colin O’Brien at E.Pellicci

and see these other Colin O’Brien stories

Colin O’Brien, Photographer

Colin O’Brien’s Clerkenwell Car Crashes

Colin O’Brien’s Kids on the Street

Gina’s Restaurant Portraits

Travellers’ Children in London Fields

Colin O’Brien’s Brick Lane Market

Colin O’Brien Goes Back To School

At Colin O’Brien’s Flat

The Dogs of Spitalfields in the Snow

January 22, 2013
by the gentle author

Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie braved the blizzard to bring us this survey of the effect of snowy conditions upon our frisky East End canines and here you see the results of her endeavours. “The snow had just started to fall and they were all so excited.” she reported to me afterwards in breathless understatement, “The dogs were going crazy,”

Beetlejuice (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) & Sarah

Beetlejuice is extremely friendly and bounded across to knock the photographer over next. Apparently, he has epilepsy and takes medication for it which makes him gain weight. Sarah, who walks Beetlejuice four times a week for her parents, calls him her “big dollop of lard.”

Daisy (Welsh Terrier) & Fiona

Although Fiona is a professional dog walker who usually walks a number of dogs at once – including Molly, Sandra Esqulant’s dog from The Golden Heart – Daisy is particular and will only tolerate being walked on her own.

Muffin (King Charles Spaniel) & Chris

Muffin was taking Chris for a walk in Ion Sq. Chris is a dignified East Ender who has lived her life around Columbia Rd and Muffin is her dedicated companion.

Malone (Golden Labrador) & Susanna

Malone was acquired by Susanna as a puppy seven years ago in Barcelona, and they moved to London three and a half years ago. After Susanna lost a baby in pregnancy, she realised through the depth of her affection for Malone that she could love an adoptive child as if it were her own, and that is what she hopes to do.

Higgins (King Charles Spaniel) & Mark

Higgins gets taken to Allen Gardens by Mark who is a graphic designer living in Spitalfields. They both came over from Australia last year and this is Higgins’ first experience of snow. The outfit Higgins is wearing was acquired on a recent trip to Vienna.

Buster (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) & Beth

Sometimes Buster gets anxious and insecure while he is outside walking on the leash but he turned playful and relaxed when he saw the school children running around in the snow. A homeboy by nature, Beth says Buster is cuddly and adorable like a teddy bear within the security of his own four walls.

Fred (Labrador) & Ron

Fred is five years old and lives on the outskirts of London with Ron. They arrive at the local school at 5:30am so that Ron can let the cleaners in as part of his caretaking duties. Then Fred & Ron head out for a walk around the park and Ron usually stops to have a chat with the prostitutes on the street.

Aggie (Staffordshire/French Bulldog Cross) & Liane

Aggie is four and a half years old and loves the snow so much that it was almost impossible for Liane to hold her still for a photograph.

Juju & Boudica with Penny & Leslie

Juju & Boudica were so over-excited by the snow that chaos ensued when Penny & Lesley even tried to get them to stand still for a picture.

The Bosses Dogs & Sandra

As part of her duties at work, Sandra regularly walks this eager and excitable pair of dogs belonging to her employer. They barked when they were going to have their picture taken, until Sandra showed them who was boss and achieved the desired result at once.

Stan (Long-Legged Irish Staffordshire) with Reg & Harry

Stan is one of the family for brothers Reg & Harry. So when Harry got the day off from work and the snow shut Reg’s college, it was the perfect opportunity for the three of them to enjoy an afternoon at the park.

Kobi (Victorian Bull Dog) & Steve

Kobi was chosen by Steve, who wanted a small dog, when he was just a little puppy with big feet. Originally bred for pulling logs, Victorian Bull Dogs require plenty of exercise and these days Kobi keeps Steve on the run in all weathers.

Pippi (Mongrel) with Trisha & Mason

As Sarah was walking through St Matthew’s Churchyard in Bethnal Green she saw Pippi scampering towards her through the snow accompanied by Mason. Then Mason’s granny – Trisha – appeared from behind a tree and hurled a well-aimed snowball at her grandson, scoring a directed hit. After introductions were made, Trisha explained she was supervising Mason since his school had closed at lunchtime, but the brief conversation was curtailed once Pippi appeared with a stick and they all ran off again off frolicking together in the snow.

Candy (Dachshund) & Fiona

Candy & Fiona live on Brick Lane and were in a big hurry, but they just stopped long enough to get their portrait done because they always wanted to be featured in ‘Dogs of Spitalfields.’

Fudge (Labradoodle) & John

Fudge was acquired by John when he retired from trading in street markets. Now John walks him three times a day and John’s grandchildren shout “Where’s Fudge?” whenever he pays them a visit. “People don’t take no notice of anyone, but when you’ve got a dog with you it’s different – now everyone says ‘hello’ to me.” John revealed proudly.

Coco (Papillion) & Keith

In the August 2011 series of ‘Dogs of Spitalfields,’ Coco & Keith were featured on their balcony overgrown with summery plants, so Sarah took this opportunity to make a contrasting portrait of these old friends in the snow.

Dasher (Saluki Lurcher) & Tamzin, Dora (Saluki Lurcher) & Mimi, Tim (Whippet) & Robert

Dasher and Dora are rescue dogs but Tim came from a farm in Somerset and has a classy pedigree. By nature, Lurchers and Whippets are very sociable creatures and like to stick together, consequently their owners met and became friends.

Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie

The Dogs of Spitalfields

More Dogs of Spitalfields

The Dogs of Spitalfields in Spring

The Dogs of Spitalfields in Autumn

The Dogs of Spitalfields in Winter

The Dogs of Old London

East End Snowmen

January 21, 2013
by the gentle author

Yesterday delivered the perfect conditions for the arrival of the snowmen in the East End. At first I came upon them in yards and gardens, but before long they were scattered all over the parks and open spaces, lonely sentinels with frozen smiles. Snowmen are short-lived beings and many of those I photographed were just completed, only to be destroyed shortly after my pictures were taken. Yet when I returned later, I often found they had been reconstructed, and – as others appeared in the vicinity and the creators sought to be distinctive – a strange kind of evolution was taking place.

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Snowfall at Bow Cemetery