At Fieldgate St Great Synagogue

There is an overwhelming melancholy at Fieldgate St Great Synagogue. A place of reverence for over a century, it is no longer required now the congregation has departed. It closed for regular services in 2007.
When the synagogue was founded in 1899, Whitechapel was defined by the Jewish community that filled the surrounding streets, yet they dwindled away through the second half of the last century, moving to better housing and better lives in the newly-built suburbs.
After bomb damage in World War II, Fieldgate St Synagogue was rebuilt and reopened in 1959, retaining significant features from the earlier building. There is a lonely grandeur to the place today, worn and dusty now but still with evidence of the attention exercised in its care. Fine gilt texts upon panels around the balcony record benefactors and commemorate loved ones, never to be forgotten. A cotton roller towel still hangs by the sink in the hallway, stale matzos sit in a cupboard upstairs and tablecloths grace abandoned tables, awaiting those who will not return.
Sold last summer to the East London Mosque, which has extended itself upon three sides of the building in recent years, the empty structure sits in limbo awaiting an uncertain future yet, for the meantime, Fieldgate St Great Synagogue harbours the lingering presence of all the worshippers who passed through.























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Announcement Of Rodney Archer’s Funeral
Rodney Archer‘s funeral will take place at Christ Church, Spitalfields at noon on Wednesday 16th December, preceded by a procession from 31 Fournier St. All are welcome to attend. No flowers please but instead donations can be made to Spitalfields Crypt Trust or Suited & Booted.
https://vimeo.com/33156078
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Happy Birthday Broadway Bookshop!

Broadway Bookshop in Hackney celebrates ten years trading this week and continues to thrive, in contradiction of the commonly-held belief that the imminent death of all bookshops is at hand. As author and publisher, I have come to cherish independent bookshops such as this one and so I went along to meet proprietor Jane Howe in the hope of learning the secret of success in bookselling.
Although it has a modest frontage, Broadway Bookshop is like a warren inside, opening out as you pass through the narrow passage past the cash desk and descend the staircase into the huge burrow lined with books. The clamour of Broadway Market recedes and you find yourself as if in a private library where an atmosphere of literary calm prevails. Yet beyond this chamber lies another secret space, where only initiates are admitted. A tiny cavern beneath the street, stacked with boxes of books concealed behind a discreet green curtain, where Jane sits at her desk.
I was fascinated to learn of the women booksellers in West London who had inspired Jane and I realised that she is one of a trio of remarkable women booksellers who run bookshops in East London today – Denise Jones at Brick Lane Books, Vivian Archer at Newham Books & Jane Howe at Broadway Bookshop.
‘I first started to become a bookseller at Dillons, High St Kensington after I left University College London. You had to wear a plastic apron and a badge and you weren’t allowed to look at the books, only dust them – you didn’t open them. I had also been doing proof reading for publishers but I can’t spell so it was ridiculous.
Then I went to work for Mary Mackintosh at Elgin Books in Portobello. She was an American woman in her sixties and her shop was nicely furnished with lovely carpets and furniture and fresh flowers. She was my inspiration. She had this welcoming manner which all the customers loved. She used to let me do the window display which changed every week and she gave me free rein and I loved it. There was always a theme but I didn’t tell her what it was, she had to guess it – sometimes it was that all the books were the same subject and sometimes it was simply that the covers were all the same colour. As Notting Hill changed, the annual rent went from seventeen thousand to thirty-seven thousand and Mary tried to find alternative cheaper premises but she became ill and died.
From there I went to work for Sarah Anderson at the Travel Bookshop, a redoubtable woman who had started the shop twenty years before. It was also in Portobello and, alongside Elgin Books, was the other bookshop that inspired the film Notting Hill. We sold travel books alongside travel literature.
By then I was fifty, but I had a windfall which gave me an opportunity, and I thought, ‘I’ve got to do something for myself, I can’t just be a part-time bookseller for the rest of my life.’ Friends encouraged me to do it. They said, ‘You know enough.’ So I was looking for premises and my eldest daughter Bridget was studying at the Royal London Hospital. I heard there was an empty shop in Broadway Market and it was very cheap. I thought, ‘It’s a long way from the tube,’ but there was a market starting up and I was used to Portobello and I thought, ‘There’ll be loads of people.’ I went into the cafe next door and it was full of young people in their late twenties and early thirties and I thought, ‘These could be my customers.’
It was a perfect High St, it had a butcher, a baker and a fishmonger, and I thought, ‘Every High St needs a bookshop,’ and ten years later that has been proved right. It has become a community meeting place. You hear people saying, ‘I’ll meet you in the bookshop,’ or they call on their phones and say, ‘I’m in the bookshop.’ Sometimes they leave their children in the book corner at the back of the shop, I set it up there so little children can’t sneak out the door without passing the counter.
Recently, we’ve been under pressure to sell kindles and other things than books, and to open a coffee shop, but we haven’t done any of that – instead we’ve focussed our efforts on offering the very best, most-knowledgeable customer service we can give. We weathered the Recession and the Olympics, when nobody came because they had been told there was nowhere to park, and we’re still here.’



Jane Howe, Bookseller
Photographs copyright © Colin O’Brien
The Broadway Bookshop, 6 Broadway Market, Hackney, E8 4QJ
All are welcome to a party at Broadway Bookshop tonight with drinks & food from 6:30pm and 10% discount on all sales including the CRIES OF LONDON
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The Players Of St Peter

Jenny Williamson as the Virgin Mary
Ever since my stint as the Innkeeper, turning the Holy Family away when they knocked without reading the ‘No Vacancies’ sign, I have been in thrall to the curious literal magic of the ancient Mystery Plays. So you can imagine my delight to discover the Players of St Peter performing at St George-in-the-East, Wapping this week, still carrying the torch for fifteenth century English drama after seventy years.
The Players were originally founded in 1946 in St Peter’s Cornhill in the first week of Advent, as a celebration of the return of Peace at the end of the Second World War, before moving to Holy Trinity, Sloane St in 1988 and then arriving at St-George-in-the-East in 2012. Jock Longstaff supervised most performances during the first twenty-five years, suceeded by Olive Stubbs, a member of the acting company who became director and has overseen every production for the last thirty years.
When Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie & I slipped into the back of the darkened church to watch the dress rehearsal, we were astonished by the glowing Biblical visions that arose before our eyes and even more amazed when a shining Angel drifted up the aisle to deliver us cups of tea and homemade spice cake, from a recipe adopted by the Players years ago and baked annually ever since.
Dazzled by God’s radiance and raptured by the sight of the Virgin Mary, we were puzzled by the presumed invisibility of Mary Magdalene in scenes where the Players appeared to address a presence composed only of thin air – until the friendly Angel bearing tea and cake helpfully explained that, ‘Mary Magdalene can’t be here this evening, she’s doing shift work.’

Robert Hayward as the Holy Lamb of God from the Coventry Shearmen & Taylors’ play

Mike Harding as King Herod and his lackeys from the Coventry Weavers’ play

Steve Brett as Jesus in the York Carpenters’ play

Stephen Wright, Anthony Sullivan & Robert Hayward as the three soldiers at the Crucifixion

Brian David as Almighty God and his Angels, Anthea Wormington & Jackie Withnail

Gill Taylor as Lucifer, the Prince of Darkness from the Chester Tanners’ Play

Olive Stubbs, Director of the Players of St Peter for thirty years in the role of Delight

Herod’s Lackey

Vicky Bettelheim, Judith Elbourne & Deborah Pollard as the three Marys

Pharisee



God in Splendour

The Players of St Peter
Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie
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The Boar’s Head Parade
Today sees the annual Boar’s Head Parade in the City of London – leaving Butcher’s Hall in Bartholomew Close, Smithfield at 3pm – to mark the beginning of the Christmas Season

Drawing by Paul Bommer
Contributing Photographer Colin O’Brien & I were greeted by Neil Hunt, Beadle of The Worshipful Company of Butchers, when we arrived at their Hall in St Bartholomew’s Close, Smithfield, to join a small crowd eagerly awaiting the annual appearance of the celebrated Boar’s Head in the first week of Advent, marking the beginning on the Christmas season in London.
This arcane tradition has its origin in 1343 when the Lord Mayor, John Hamond, granted the Butchers of the City of London use of a piece of land by the Fleet River, where they could slaughter and clean their beasts, for the token yearly payment of a Boar’s Head at Christmas.
To pass the time in the drizzle, the Beadle showed us his magnificent staff of office dating from 1716, upon which may be discerned a Boar’s Head. “Years ago, they had a robbery and this was the only thing that wasn’t stolen,” he confided to me helpfully, ” – it had a cover and the thieves mistook it for a mop.”
Before another word was spoken, a posse of members of the Butcher’s Company emerged triumphant from the Hall in blue robes and velvet hats, with a livid red Boar’s Head carried aloft at shoulder height, to the delighted applause of those waiting in the street. Behind us, drummers of the Royal Logistics Corps in red uniforms gathered and City of London Police motorcyclists in fluorescent garb lined up to receive instructions from Ian Kelly, the Master of the Company.
Everyone assembled to pose for official photographs with the perky red ears of the Boar sticking up above the crowd, providing the opportunity for a closer examination of this gloss-painted paper mache creation, sitting upon a base of Covent Garden grass and surrounded by plastic fruit. As recently as 1968, a real Boar’s Head was paraded but these days Health & Safety concerns about hygiene require the use of this colourful replica for ceremonial purposes.
The drummers set a brisk pace and before we knew it, the parade was off down Little Britain, preceded by the police motorcyclists halting the traffic. For a couple of minutes, the City stopped – astonished passengers leaned out of buses and taxis, and office workers reached for their phones to capture the moment. It made a fine spectacle advancing down Cheapside, past St Mary Le Bow, with the sound of drums echoing and reverberating off the tall buildings.
The rhythmic clamour accompanying the procession of men in their dark robes, with the Boar’s Head bobbing above, evoked the ancient drama of the City of London and, as they paraded through the gathering dusk towards the Mansion House looming in the east on that occluded December afternoon, I could not resist the feeling that they were marching through time as well as space.
Neil Hunt, Beadle of The Worshipful Company of Butchers
The Beadle’s staff dates from 1716
Leaving St Bartholomew’s Close
Advancing through Little Britain

Passing St Paul’s
Entering Cheapside
Passing St Mary Le Bow
In Cheapside
Approaching the Mansion House
The Boar’s Head arrives at the Mansion House
Photographs copyright © Colin O’Brien
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Marian Monas’ Portraits
Marian Monas has been painting her neighbours in Cable St, inspiring Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie to visit the subjects and photograph them with their pictures. You can see these paintings in a joint exhibition alongside recent pictures of France by Doreen Fletcher displayed for two days in a floating gallery at Hermitage Moorings, Wapping, this Wednesday 2nd December 10:30-5:30pm & Thursday December 3rd 10:30-7.30pm

Peter Duggan, Waterman & Lighterman

Terry Duncan, Compositor – ‘I lived in Glamis Rd as a child then I grew up and went to live in Dagenham but now I’ve come back to Cable St’

Mary Flanagan, Home Carer – ‘I was born in Wapping and have lived nine years in Cable St. I cared for my mother at home until she was ninety-five.’

Terry Page, West Ham Supporter – ‘I’ve lived forty years in Cable St. I was an electrician at Royal London Hospital then Watney Mann Brewery in Whitechapel and now I do bulk clearance.’

Joe Parker, ex-landlord of the Old House At Home in Watney St

Alicia Morrison, Housekeeper in the West End – ‘I came here from the Philippines thirty years ago and I’ve done a lot of jobs in hospitals and hotels, anything that’s legal’

Harry Parlour – ‘I’m from Bow’

Peter Duggan, Lighterman & Waterman
Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie
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Shopping In Old London
Butcher, Hoxton St, Shoreditch, c.1910
D0 Black Friday and Cyber Monday fill you with overwhelming feelings of lethargy, apathy and disdain? Why not consider visiting the shops of old London instead? There are no supermarkets, malls or pop-ups, but plenty of other diversions to captivate the eager shopper.
These glass slides once used for magic lantern shows by the London & Middlesex Archaeological Society at the Bishopsgate Institute offer the ideal consumer experience for a reluctant browser such as myself since, as this crowd outside a butcher in Hoxton a century ago illustrates, shopping in London has always been a fiercely competitive sport.
Instead of braving the crowds and emptying our wallets, we can enjoy window shopping in old London safe from the temptation to pop inside and buy anything – because most of these shops do not exist anymore.
Towering over the shopping landscape of a century ago were monumental department stores, beloved destinations for the passionate shopper just as the City churches were once spiritual landmarks to pilgrims and the devout. Of particular interest to me are the two huge posters for Yardley that you can see in the Strand and on Shaftesbury Avenue, incorporating the Lavender Seller from Francis Wheatley’s Cries of London, originally painted in the seventeen nineties. There is an intriguing paradox in this romanticised image of a street seller of two centuries earlier, used to promote a brand of twentieth century cosmetics that were manufactured in a factory in Stratford and sold through a sleek modernist flagship store, Yardley House, in the West End.
Wych St, lined with medieval shambles that predated the Fire of London and famous for its dusty old bookshops and printsellers is my kind of shopping street, demolished in 1901 to construct the Aldwych. Equally, I am fascinated by the notion of cramming commerce into church porches, such as the C. Burrell, the Dealer in Pickled Tongues & Sweetbreads who used to operate from the gatehouse of St Bartholomew the Great in Smithfield and E.H. Robinson, the optician, through whose premises you once entered St Ethelburga’s in Bishopsgate. Note that a toilet saloon was conveniently placed next door for those were nervous at the prospect of getting their eyes tested.
So let us set out together to explore the shops of old London. We do not need a shopping basket. We do not need a list. We do not even need money. We are shopping for wonders and delights. And we shall not have to carry anything home. This is my kind of shopping.
Optician built into St Ethelburga’s, Bishopsgate, c.1910
Decorators and Pencil Works, Great Queen St, c.1910
Newsagent and Hairdresser at 152 Strand, c.1930
Dairy and ‘Sacks, bags, ropes, twines, tents, canvas, etc.’ Shop, c. 1940
Liberty of London, c.1910
Regent St, c.1920.
Harrods of Knightsbridge, c.1910
The Fashion Shoe Shop, c.1920 “Repetiton is the soul of advertising”
Evsns Tabacconist, Haymarket, c.1910
F. W. Woolworth & Co. Ltd. 3d and 6d store, c.1910
Finnigan’s of New Bond St, gold- & silversmiths, c.1910
Achille Serre,Cleaner & Dyers, c. 1920
Old Bond St. c. 1910
W.H.Daniel, Cow Keeper, White Hart Yard, c.1910
John Barker & Co. Ltd., High St Kensington, c.1910
Tobacconist, Glovers and Shoe Shop, c.1910
Ford Showroom, c.1925
Civil Service Supply Association, c. 1930
Swears & Wells Ltd, Ladies Modes, c. 1925
Glave’s Hosiery, c 1920
Shopping in Wych St, c. 1910 – note the sign of the crescent moon.
Horne Brothers Ltd, c. 1920
Tobacconist, High Holborn, c. 1910
Yardley House, c. 1930
Peter Robinson, Oxford St, c. 1920
Confectionery Shop, corner of Greek St and Shaftesbury Ave, c. 1930
Bookseller, Wych St, c. 1890
Pawnbroker, 201 Seven Sisters Rd, Finsbury Park, c. 1910
Bookseller & Tobacconist and Dealer in Pickled Tongues at the entrance to St Bartholomew’s, Smithfield, c. 1910
Oxford Circus, c. 1920
Glass slides courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
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