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So Long, Terry’s Tropicals

January 24, 2025
by the gentle author

After three generations and more than sixty years of service to the East End’s ichthyophiles and aquarists, Terry’s Tropicals closes forever this Sunday

What better refuge from the hurly-burly of the Bethnal Green Rd, than to step into the sub-aquatic glow of Wholesale Tropicals (universally known as Terry’s Tropicals) and lose yourself in contemplation amongst the banks of illuminated fish tanks, as if you were taking a stroll upon the bed of a vast river in an exotic sunlit land? Here three generations of the Jones family work ceaselessly – Christmas not excepted – to maintain the population of up to ten thousand tropical freshwater fish that are their charge and their passion. Like those ethereal creatures which inhabit the depths, the family share a pallor evident of their lives tending fish in the gloom – where today, Jordan Jones, the youngest member pursues the never-ending feeding round that was begun by his grandfather Terry in 1961.

Once you have enjoyed a turn around the magnificent aquatic display, it is time to meet the two Terrys, the father and son that run the place, holding court at the front of the shop with Archie, who comes in each day (and has his own chair next to the tanks of aquarium plants), on all subjects tropical fish related. “We are known as the cheeky chappies of the fishkeeping world because of the banter that goes on,” bragged Terry the younger, revealing, “I’ve been here twenty-five years with the old bugger, since the day I left school at sixteen,” and proud to inform me that they used to have eighty tanks in the back garden when he was a child and won multiple awards for breeding South American catfish. “We specialised in getting all the different types,” he informed me enigmatically, “We searched high and low.” Adding helpfully, “We still sell the red-tailed catfish – the king of the Amazon – capable of growing to a metre long.”

You can learn a lot just by hanging on the words of these wily specialists gathered at the counter, like always wear a pair of rubber gloves when changing the water for your electric eel, like many of the fish here are extinct in the wild due to pollution, like Africans are the most aggressive of freshwater fish and require caves at the rear of their tanks to escape when fights break out, like how you must always put piranhas together in pairs of either sex to avoid a blood bath, and how the African Tiger fish is the most lethal, on account of its articulated jaw lined with sharp teeth and propensity to grow to five feet long. I was shown a six-inch specimen currently available for seventy-five pounds – it may look as benign as a stickleback, but its precisely serrated fangs are framed by an expression of primeval antagonism.

“Fishkeeping is more keeping the water than keeping the fish,” confided Terry the younger later, turning philosophical in the back office as he revealed a trick of the trade, “If you can keep the water just right, clean and the correct temperature and pH, they more or less keep themselves.” Yet I was not convinced of Terry’s dispassionate posturing, watching him chuckle affectionately as the Koi carp came to suck the food off his fingers. “Can you have a relationship with a fish?” I queried, “Do they respond to you?” Terry blinked at me as if to discreetly conceal his surprise at my under-estimate of the sweet nature of his beloved creatures. “They recognise you if you gesture through the glass to them,” he informed me and, as he spread his fingers, caressing the air beside a tank, a whole shoal of little fish swam up to meet his shadow playfully and passed by, turning away with a flick of their tails in unison.

Once upon a time, Terry Jones senior, a native of Bethnal Green, made a fish tank at school, gluing the pieces of glass together and using a slate for the base, heated with night-lights burning beneath. Years later, when he completed National Service, he started out breeding tropical fish with a pal from the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Angling Club. When he began, there were twenty-five fish shops in the East End and sixty years later there are only two, but Terry persevered to create the phenomenon that is Wholesale Tropicals, drawing fish fanciers from as far as Fife. “Because we committed to something we do it properly, that’s why we work here seven days a week and all hours if necessary,” Terry junior assured me, as a loyal advocate of his father’s vision.

“I used to get home at eight each night, and then I’d be out in the shed with the seventy tanks I had there until midnight,” recalled Terry senior fondly, “- until the roof fell in, and I committed myself to building this extension.” And he raised his eyes in pride at his creation, the serried rows of burbling tanks in aisles surrounding us. Standing there in one of the East End’s secret marvels – a temple devoted to the sublime wonders of the deep – beside the unassuming man who kept fifteen-inch piranhas for pets, the discreet genius behind the tropical fish shop that won every award going including the Practical Fishkeeping award for the Best Shop in the South of England, years running – I knew I was in the presence of a big fish.

Terry Jones who started the company in 1961.

One of Bethnal Green’s most reclusive residents.

Terry Jones, junior, with his beloved Koi.

One of Bethnal Green’s most dangerous residents, the African Tiger fish.

Terry caresses a cherished specimen of a South American catfish.

Live locusts for sale off the shelf for the lizard-fanciers of Bethnal Green.

Archie, a regular customer, has a collection of three hundred goldfish, tropicals and toads at home.

The two Terrys at work.

The wall of fame.

Art, Documentary & Resistance In The Thirties

January 23, 2025
by the gentle author

These photographs are selected from the exhibition NOW FILMING: Art, Documentary & Resistance in 1930s East London which explores the work of the Workers’ Film & Photo League, who employed the camera as ‘a weapon in the struggle’ by representing working class lives in their fight against poverty, exploitation and the rise of fascism. This free exhibition opens tomorrow at Four Corners in Bethnal Green and runs until 22nd February.

The ‘Royal’ Repast by John Maltby, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Hunger marchers by Norman King, c 1936

Unemployed workers going to dine at the Ritz by John Maltby, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Reception for women hunger marchers, Islington Town Hall, 1937 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

March against the Unemployed Assistance Board in East London, Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

March against the Unemployed Assistance Board in East London, Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Police removing barricades in Long Lane, Bermondsey, 1937 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Socialist Youth by Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

National Unemployed Workers Movement Holloway Branch outside Holloway Odeon, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Kino mobile cinema, 1935

Back view of the Kino mobile cinema showing rear projection screen, 1935

Making the film ‘Bread’, Workers Film & Photo League production still, 1934 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Film & Photo League ‘Now Filming,’  stills from 1937 (courtesy BFI)

Film & Photo League ‘Construction’  stills, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Filming ‘The Merry Month of May’ 1937 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Banner of Prime Minister Caballero leads a march in support of the Spanish Republican government by John Maltby, c 1936 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Men reading a poster about the threat of war, c 1938-39 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Four Corners, 121 Roman Rd, Bethnal Green, E2 0QN

 

How To Make Rout Cakes

January 22, 2025
by the gentle author

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I am proud to publish this edited extract from THE REGENCY COOK by Paul Couchman, a graduate of my writing course. Paul set out to rediscover long-forgotten recipes from the early 1800s.

Follow THE REGENCY COOK

There is still time to book for the next writing course, HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ on February 1st & 2nd.

Come to Spitalfields and spend a winter weekend with me in an eighteenth century weaver’s house in Fournier St, enjoy delicious lunches and eat cakes baked to historic recipes, and learn how to write your own blog.

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Click here for details

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From their earliest beginnings, a rout meant the more people the better. In 1792 hundreds of invitations to a rout were sent by a hostess to people she did not even know. ‘The more people, the more éclat to the thing’ reported the Waterford Herald. Another report talks of guests ‘received at the door by the mistress of the house who smiles at every newcomer with a look of acquaintance.’

Five hundred people were invited by the Duchess of Wellington in 1820 for her rout at Apsley House where she threw open the library, saloon, picture gallery and even the china room. But the poor Marchioness of Landsdowne only managed to get three hundred fashionable guests to her house in Landsdowne Sq in the same year.

A Georgian satirical ‘recipe’ for a rout questions how many of these guests were true ‘fashionables’ – ‘Take all the ladies and gentlemen you can get, place them in a room with low fire, stir them well..the more you put the better, and the more substantial your rout will be.’ It even gave guidance to what to do if undesirables turned up – ‘Fill your room quite full and let scum rise of itself.’

Sometimes the rooms became so overcrowded and there was no room for guests to sit for conversation or a game of cards, or even space to move about. Indeed so cramped and disorderly that some people felt it necessary to remove their furniture. In 1810, an American visitor to London described how ‘the house…is frequently stripped from top to bottom…all but the ornamental furniture is carried out of sight.’

After fifteen minutes of crushing boredom, the American visitor tells us how the guests all rushed out to wait for their coaches and then, after half an hour of waiting outside, moved on to the next rout. But routs could last longer. In the Receipt Book of Mary Whiting Sewell, we learn of routs that lasted two or three hours. Whether long or short, contemporary reports tell us that many people hated attending the rout, some said they only went because one evening’s rout provided enough gossip for the rest of the year.

Music, conversation about books and art, occasionally cards and certainly eating happened at a rout. The menu for a successful rout included sliced beef or ham, seed cakes, sweetmeats and wine. But at the rout, most importantly for us, rout cakes were eaten. They are tiny rich sweet cakes made for routs and are mentioned in contemporary sources, and frequently referred to in eighteenth and nineteenth century literature.

Austen’s Emma was ‘a little shocked at the want of two drawing rooms, at the poor attempt at rout-cakes, and there being no ice in the Highbury card parties. Mrs Bates, Mrs Perry, Mrs Goddard and others, were a good deal behind hand in knowledge of the world, but she would soon shew them how every thing ought to be arranged.’

And in Thackeray’s Vanity Fair Joseph Sedley ‘managed a couple of plates full of strawberries and cream, and twenty-four little rout cakes that were lying neglected in a plate near him.’

‘To make rout drop-cakes, mix two pounds of flour with 1 pound of butter, one pound of sugar, and one pound of currants, cleaned and dried. Moisten it into a stiff paste with two eggs, a large spoonful of orange-flower water, as much rose water, sweet wine and brandy. Drop the paste on a tin plate floured, and a short time will bake them.’ – from the Cook & Housekeeper’s Dictionary, Mary Eaton, 1822.

RECIPE

Makes 12-14 individual small cakes

Ingredients

150g (5oz) plain flour

A pinch of salt

50g (1¾oz) butter at room temperature

50g (1¾oz) caster sugar

1 small egg

40g (1½oz) currants

1 teaspoon orange flower water

1 teaspoon rose water

1 teaspoon sweet wine

1 teaspoon brandy

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan (350F/320F fan/gas mark 4).

2. Grease and line a baking tray.

3. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl.

4. Rub in the butter using the tips of your fingers to make a crumbly mixture. Then stir in the sugar.

5. Beat the whole egg in a small bowl and stir in the orange flower water, the rose water, the sweet wine and the brandy.

6. Gradually mix the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients to make a smooth dough.

7. Finally, stir in the currants.

8. Spoon small heaps of the mixture onto the baking tray and bake for 16-18 minutes until golden brown.

9. When cool dust with sieved icing sugar.

If you prefer, you can bake the sponge as one piece by spreading the mixture evenly to fill the baking tray. When the sponge has cooled down, you can then cut out, and perhaps decorate, individual cakes with a shaped cutter of your choice. Decorating with hundreds and thousands would be apt. Sugar sprinkles date back to at least the late eighteenth-century, if not earlier when they were called ‘nonpareils.’

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Old Trees In Richmond Park

January 21, 2025
by the gentle author

The Royal Oak

The presence of great trees in the city has always been a source of fascination to me as one born in the countryside. I often think of the nineteenth century rural writer Richard Jefferies who, while struggling to make a career in London, took lonely walks in the parks for consolation and once, to ameliorate his home-sickness for the West Country, spontaneously wrapped his arms around a tree. Thus he originated the notion of’ tree-hugging,’ a phrase that is now used to embrace the deep affection which many people feel for trees. It is a tendency I recognise in myself, as I came to realise last week, while prowling around Richmond Park in the frost in search of ancient trees.

Yet I did not have to look very far, since this Royal Park has more than nine hundred oaks which are over five hundred years old – thus qualifying as ‘ancient’ – many of which are over seven hundred years in age. In fact, it is claimed that Richmond Park has more ancient trees than in the whole of France and Germany.

As I came upon more and more of them, the wonder of these tottering specimens filled me with such an accumulating sense of awe and delight that I could not understand how I could be entirely alone in the great empty park, enjoying them all to myself. It seemed incredible to me that the place was not teeming with visitors paying adoring homage to these gnarly old time-travellers, although I was equally grateful for their absence because my pleasure in communing with these ancient oaks was greater for being an intimate, solitary experience.

The ultimate object of my quest was the celebrated Royal Oak at the heart of the park. Since it is not marked on any map, I had no choice but to stop the few people I did meet and ask directions. Yet all of those of whom I enquired simply replied with a shrug and a polite grin, and consequently I could not avoid a certain absurdity in asking my question of unwary visitors while in a park surrounded by ancient trees. Eventually I had no choice but to retreat to a lodge where, after several phone calls among the park wardens, I was offered directions.

Returning to the woodland, I wondered how I might distinguish the wood for trees or rather – in this case – the Royal Oak from its fellows. The low-angled sunshine emerged at intervals from the passing clouds, casting a transient light upon the forest. As I reached the edge of the tree line and the landscape opened up, declining towards Pen Ponds, the clouds separated permitting a shaft of afternoon sunlight to illuminate a tree standing apart from the rest. A massive trunk, twisted and split, testified to seven centuries of growth, while the whirling crown of branches spreading in all directions was a product of more recent time, when the tree was no longer pollarded for the supply of oak staffs. I stood and contemplated its implacable presence in silent awe, confronting the aged monarch among an army of elderly cohorts in a forest of ancient trees. This was the Royal Oak.

The Royal Oak is over seven hundred years old

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‘No Enemy But Winter And Rough Weather’

January 20, 2025
by the gentle author

‘No enemy but winter and rough weather…’ As You Like It

Every year at this low ebb of the season, I go to Columbia Rd Market to buy potted bulbs and winter-flowering plants which I replant into my collection of old pots from the market and arrange upon the oak dresser, to observe their growth at close quarters and thereby gain solace and inspiration until my garden shows convincing signs of new life.

Each morning, I drag myself from bed – coughing and wheezing from winter chills – and stumble to the dresser in my pyjamas like one in a holy order paying due reverence to an altar. When the grey gloom of morning feels unremitting, the musky scent of hyacinth or the delicate fragrance of the cyclamen is a tonic to my system, tangible evidence that the season of green leaves and abundant flowers will return. When plant life is scarce, my flowers in pots that I bought for just a few pounds each at Columbia Rd acquire a magical allure for me, an enchanted quality confirmed by the speed of their growth in the warmth of the house, and I delight to have this collection of diverse varieties in dishes to wonder at, as if each one were a unique specimen from an exotic land.

And once they have flowered, I place these plants in a cold corner of the house until I can replant them in the garden. As a consequence, my clumps of Hellebores and Snowdrops are expanding every year and thus I get to enjoy my plants at least twice over – at first on the dresser and in subsequent years growing in my garden.

Staffordshire figure of Orlando from As You Like It

At The Mansion House

January 19, 2025
by the gentle author

Contributing Photographer Rachel Ferriman & I were granted the privilege of a visit to the Mansion House designed by George Dance the Elder (1739) in the City of London. I use the word privilege because this gleaming palace that serves as the official residence of the Lord Mayor of the City is an embodiment of the notion. Lest there should be any doubt, Robert Taylor’s sculptures on the pediment proclaim it by representing a female figure personifying the City triumphant, trampling the figure of Envy beneath her feet while receiving the bounty of the earth in a cornucopia delivered by another allegorical figure.

The weight of history is inescapable here. ‘This is the vortex and whirlpool, the centre of human life today on the earth,’ wrote Richard Jefferies in 1883 of the crossroads where the Bank of England, the Royal Exchange and the Mansion House face each other to form a triangle of powerful institutions. No-one would make the same comment today now that the traffic haas thinned out and the Empire is no more.

Arriving at the service entrance demystifies the pomp, just as it would if you entered the kitchen door of a restaurant or the stage door of a big theatre. Here is the vault where a vast array of the gold and silver is stored for the grand dinners, watched over by Plate Butler Andrew Ford who kindly points out Queen Elizabeth I’s sword and the chain of office believed to have been worn by Thomas More, lest you miss these astonishing personal artefacts amidst the dazzling bling. Leading off from the low vaulted passages are old wooden doors that led to holding cells in the days when the Mansion House served as a court of law. Emmeline Pankhurst was imprisoned here in the women’s cell known as the ‘birdcage.’

Ascending to the public spaces, you encounter the vast Salon at the centre of the building that was once an open courtyard. It is riot of pillars and plasterwork, highlighted in gilt and illuminated by massive crystal chandeliers. This is where Anne Fanshawe would have been seen in her dress of Spitalfields silk at the inauguration when her father Crisp Gascoyne became Lord Mayor in 1752.

From here you proceed to the galleried Egyptian Hall laid out for a banquet of over a hundred, where minions check that knives and forks are laid correctly while keeping an eye on the lustrous gold metalware adorning the long tables. Here the Chancellor gives the annual Mansion House speech, outlining the state of the economy.

On the other side of the building is the Old Ballroom with an impressive coffered ceiling embellished with rosettes and the largest sash window I ever saw. A door leads directly from the Ballroom to the State Bedroom which offers a startling juxtaposition between the public and the private while delivering luxurious convenience for an individual of high status. Although the furnishing of this room is a recreation apart from the Thomas Sheraton furniture, I found it the most evocative space where any manner of liaison might be envisioned by one with a colourful imagination.

Studying Sally Jeffery’s definitive architectural history of the Mansion House revealed how much the building and its interiors have been transformed through time, with the most recent renovation being in 1991. I could not resist an equivocal response. On one hand, the place fills me with fascination and respect for the breathtaking paintings and sculptures, and the superlative design and craft skills expended in the creation of such a wonder. On the other, I cannot wholeheartedly accept the celebration of imperial power that is embodied here. Yet despite my reservations, the Mansion House still does its job as an events venue for those City institutions whose guests seek the affirmation of status that these interiors are designed to celebrate.

The North-West Staircase

The Saloon

The Saloon

The Saloon

The north Drawing Room with reinstated 19th century colour scheme

The North-West Drawing Room

The Lord Mayor’s office

The North-West State Bedroom with furniture by Thomas Sheraton, conveniently adjacent to the Old Ballroom permitting monarchs or other important guests a private retreat

The Egyptian Hall

The Egyptian Hall

The Egyptian Hall

The Egyptian Hall

The Egyptian Hall

The Egyptian Hall

The Old Ballroom

The Old Ballroom

Caroline Jack, Director of Mansion House at the large sash window at the end of the Old Ballroom

At the centre is a sword belonging to Elizabeth I

Andrew Ford, Plate Butler in the vault

Door to one of the holding cells, where Emmeline Pankhurst was held prior to trial

Watchman’s chair in the vestibule

Photographs copyright © Rachel Ferriman

With thanks to Caroline Jack, Director of the Mansion House

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At The Golden Heart

January 18, 2025
by the gentle author

Photographer Phil Maxwell knows that the centre of the universe in Spitalfields is The Golden Heart on the corner of Hanbury St and Commercial St where publican Sandra Esqulant, hula-hoop champion and spiritual mother of our community, has presided for more than forty years.

“I cannot count the number of times I have said, “Wouldn’t it be great to go for a pint at The Golden Heart?” Relaxing with a drink and snatching a few moments with my friend Sandra has always been one of life’s great pleasures. Some of these photographs were taken as I drank a pint of real ale outside the ‘Heart’ with my partner Hazuan Hashim. If you enjoy people watching, then there is nowhere better in Spitalfields than the pavement outside The Golden Heart.”

Phil Maxwell


Photographs copyright © Phil Maxwell

Follow Phil Maxwell’s blog Playground of an East End Photographer

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