Walking west from Spitalfields
Each week, I walk up to the West End and back a couple of times. It takes about an hour from Spitalfields to Covent Garden and I love this precious time of free-associative thought as I take my steps through the infinite spectacle of the city. When I set out, I usually let my feet guide me, but the first clear choice is whether to go north or south of Liverpool Street Station. South of the station takes me through the City and past St Paul’s Cathedral, whereas north of the station takes me via the Barbican and Smithfield or Clerkenwell. Most often, recently, I find myself walking through Bunhill Fields (pictured above) north of the Barbican, dropping in on Whitecross Street Market, then through Fortune Street Park, over to Smithfield and straight on to the West End.
As I walk back and forth, I’ll be reporting regularly to you on my recommended routes, discoveries and observations along the way.
Invasion of the monster veg in Spitalfields
Over recent weeks, there has been a stealthy silent invasion of the neighbourhood. In the side streets, lurking behind abundant greenery, sometimes concealed behind plastic sheeting or even protected behind wire mesh are these monster Kodu. There are long ones and round ones, ridged ones and smooth ones, yellow ones and green ones, patterned ones, and some which can grow so enormous that, like this one in a garden at Albert Cottages, they require ropes to hold them up – or maybe, like James’ giant peach, the ropes are there to hold them down?
At the Spitalfields City Farm in the polytunnel, there is currently one of the most incredible displays of vegetable life you will ever see, pictured below.
The future skyline of Spitalfields
At first glance, you would be forgiven for mistaking this cityscape with its cluster of tall towers for Los Angeles, Houston, Dubai, or even Shanghai or any one of those other fast-growing Asian cities – but this is in fact London with Spitalfields in the foreground. All the buildings in white are new or yet to be built.
This prophetic vision was revealed to me when I visited the New London Architecture exhibition at The Building Centre off Tottenham Court Road last week, where The Pipers Central London Model is on permanent display. It is made to a scale of 1:1500 and every building is there – I wondered to see my own home reduced to a tiny grey plastic cube the size of a Monopoly house. Though, strangely, the Spitalfields Market development appears not to have happened yet and the spire of Nicholas Hawksmoor’s Christ Church has been lopped off.
If you want to know more about future developments including Crossrail, go and take a look for yourself at The Building Centre or, alternatively, keep your eyes on the skyline, because it is going to change.
Mr Fox in Spitalfields
Columbia Road Market 2
Last week, as if somebody had flicked a switch on the day after the bank holiday, the weather changed. Suddenly autumn is in the air, the nights are cooler and I put the quilt on my bed for the first time. The end of summer brings Cyclamen into the market and today I bought six for a fiver. My preference is for tiny white ones close to the wild species (they also come in red and a range of luscious pinks), and I look out for varieties with elegant spidery patterned leaves like these. Always a great bargain, if you deadhead them conscientiously they will flower through until Easter. I planted them to lighten the shade under the Magnolia Stellata just as I did last year, and I hope if I keep doing this they will naturalise in my garden.
Shakespeare’s younger brother
In Southwark Cathedral the other day, I found the tomb of William’s younger brother Edmond, who followed his elder brother’s path to London to become an actor. In 1607 he performed at the Curtain Theatre (situated where Curtain Road is now) in Shoreditch. Ten years earlier at this theatre, Romeo and Juliet and Henry V were premiered – William described it as “this wooden O”. Think of that, next time you visit the Hoxton Pony, American Apparel or SCP.
It seems Edmond had a life here in the neighbourhood, because his illegitimate son was baptised in St Leonard’s Church, Shoreditch, but the child died soon after and Edmond just four months later, aged only twenty seven – all in 1607. It cost twenty shilling for his burial “with a forenoone knell of the great bell”, most likely paid for by his more successful brother. Nothing else is known of Edmond Shakespeare.
Brick Lane market find
For more than twenty years, I have been trawling Brick Lane Market for interesting old things and while the market has changed beyond all recognition, and though you may have to look harder now, there are still bargains to be discovered if you have sharp eyes. Last Sunday, I bought this lovely pair of nineteenth century plates in a delicate blue and white transfer willow pattern for just £4. They were hidden amongst a pile of twentieth century reproductions and were priced accordingly. I swear my toast tastes better eaten off these.
