Spitalfields Life

Later this week, I shall be publishing my final assignment with Colin O’Brien –  but today I am delighted to introduce you to the joyous paintings of Julie Price, whose debut exhibition opens in the New Artist Fair at the Old Truman Brewery on 9th September and runs until 11th September.

Elder St

Folgate St

Dennis Severs’ House, Folgate St

Wilkes St

Townhouse, Fournier St

Ten Bells

Leila’s Shop, Calvert Avenue

Arnold Circus

Wilton’s Music Hall

Julie Price in Spitalfields

Paintings copyright © Julie Price

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Today’s story is the last of seven features by Contributing Writer Delwar Hussain and the third in a series of three related stories exploring the fate of Robin Hood Gardens housing estate in Poplar

While visiting Robin Hood Gardens, Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie & I found our impressions were like shifting sands. Whenever we formed a picture, someone else said something to contradict it, changing our view of the place.

Rugena Ali, whose family lived there for more than twenty years, initially corresponded with me by email. I wanted to hear her stories about growing up in Robin Hood Gardens but Rugena was reticent. Alongside other residents, she and her family had been part of the campaign to stop the demolition. I wondered if this explained her reluctance, since the campaign failed and her family had been ‘decanted.’ Yet I persisted and she sent me this –

‘Delwar, we have stories, of fires, police raids, random shootings on the fifth floor, but also of games we used to play. Memories of how our landing was used for gossip and to pass on information, and of the 10pm ladies walking club! And happy memories of weddings. And how the ladies on the estate used to come together after a death to support families. We used to live in each other’s houses and I was babysat by practically everyone at some point. The adventures in the park were endless and there were dramas including someone being attacked by a dog. Then, entire estate cricket matches (which stopped after the ball smashed our kitchen window), rounders and football! It really was incredible growing up there.

I will be visiting my family on Sunday, maybe if you are free you can come by and interview all of us siblings together? I’m also sure my mum will have a lot to say!’

And she did. They all did.

Rugena lives in Essex now and works for Girlguiding. In the sitting room of her parents’ new home in Mile End, Rugena introduced her mother Amirun and brothers – Amirul who is a science teacher, Sahedul who is an aid worker and Hasan, a student.

Robin Hood Gardens was a refuge for the family. In 1992, following a racist attack against one of Rugena’s siblings, the Council wanted to re-house the family and offered them a flat on the estate. One of Rugena’s older sisters and two family friends, Joyce and Margaret, went to look at the place. They were not impressed and wanted to wait and see what else came up but, fearful of what might happen if they stayed where they were, Rugena’s mother was keen to move out immediately. So she and her husband went to have a look at the flat at Robin Hood Gardens and rang the bell of the neighbour.

‘Shamima’s father was in and showed us around their flat,’ Rugena’s mother remembered, ‘and we decided to take it because we realised what good neighbours we’d have.’

Amirul interrupted, ‘I remember our very first meal was at Shamima’s house. When we moved in, people turned up to help us, they even helped clean our windows.’

Rugena’s mother continued, ‘Yes, we did have good neighbours. They would pick the children up from school and drop them off. There were all sorts of people living there, Bengali families, a fireman and his family, the Pakistanis, the woman with the dogs…’

‘…the druggie family…’ someone added.

‘In the mid-to-late nineties, heroin came to the estate,’ Amirul explained, ‘One night there was a loud banging at the door. My mum looked through the window and four policemen had pinned someone against our door. There was always Kitkat foil lying around everywhere and then ITV news did a story about a druggie family from the estate…’

‘Is the staircase still blue?’ Sahedul asked me, like an expatriate enquiring about the old country.

‘Yes,’ I confirm.

‘They painted it blue so people couldn’t use syringes there,’ Sahedul continued, ‘Once, a man in a suit, who obviously worked at Canary Wharf, knocked on our door asking if we had any kitchen foil he could use to smoke heroin…’

‘…we were always worried about our children,’ Rugena’s mother added.

‘As far as the Council was concerned, their behaviour was always reactive with Robin Hood Gardens,’ Sahedul informed me, ‘If anything happened, the Council would do something about it, but they were never pro-active – ‘The estate is on the news for drugs, let’s do something about it ’ – an automatic response, never about people.’

Our conversation about Robin Hood Gardens ebbed and flowed, collapsing the past and the present, the good and the hard times, and both happy and distressing events. Memories of a dead man found in a car intermingled with tales of another stabbed for £20, followed by accounts of weddings between neighbours on the landings, rumours of secret rooms in the building, a description of someone breaking limbs while jumping off balconies and neighbours running out of the building with their gold and passports to escape a fire.

When Rugena’s mother left us to tend to Sunday lunch, I asked Rugena, Amirul and Sahedul about the campaign they were involved with to stop the demolition of Robin Hood Gardens and Amirul took up that story.

‘At the beginning, we received letters informing us that architects had been employed to redesign the estate. Then we received more post saying that Swan Housing had won the bid and we thought they were going to thoroughly clean and fix Robin Hood Gardens, you know, regenerate it. We were told that we were going to get a new bathroom and a new kitchen, and we thought it was going to be fantastic.’

‘You can appreciate how top-down it was,’ Sahedul recalled, ‘People who lived there were never involved in the process. They didn’t speak to us, they just sent us letters and later they would call this ‘consultation’. Many on the estate were illiterate and unable to read what was sent. I believe it was done that way on purpose, they didn’t want any resistance to their plans and so they did the bare minimum.’

‘I remember attending cabinet meetings at Tower Hamlets Council,’ Rugena explained to me, ‘also a meeting at a fancy hotel somewhere. They told us we would get to choose our own interior on the new estate. Some people were concerned about open-plan layouts and didn’t want that. Children at the local school were asked to draw pictures of their perfect bathroom, something the architects might use in their designs. No-one expected that everyone was simply going to be moved out and the buildings demolished.’

I talked about the woman Sarah & I met the first time we visited Robin Hood Gardens. She told us she had been promised that she could move back into the new, regenerated estate once it was complete. I said I thought it sounded a bit far-fetched and maybe the woman had misunderstood.

‘No, it’s true,’ Rugena and her siblings replied in unison.

‘That woman isn’t wrong. They call it ‘double-decant’. They made so many promises like that,’ Amirul assured me, ‘and, as far as I know, many of them haven’t been kept and won’t be honoured. They promised that they would pay transportation costs and any damages incurred to belongings, they also promised a lump sum of ten or five thousand pounds to people if they were willing to move out. We know some people who took it and others who didn’t. Some who didn’t move out, including our neighbour Shamima’s family, were offered like-for-like housing and some compensation. But the value of their property was reduced and so was what they were offered.’

Rugena took up the story. ‘Once we learnt what was being planned, we drew up a petition for the building to be listed and took it around the estate. Then we took a second one around asking that tenants should have more say in the process. We attended so many meetings to try and stop them. Our family were the only ones involved who didn’t own their flat, but we did it because we believed in saving what we had.’

‘If you were against the proposals, why did you move out?’ I asked.

‘The main issue was our father,’ Rugena admitted, ‘He has dementia and uses a wheelchair. When the lift broke in the building, he would be stuck in the flat and it might be days until he could get out. We attended campaign meetings knowing that we were on the relocation list, but we did it for him.’

The current house in Mile End was the first they were offered. Amirul, his mother and his father’s occupational therapist came to view it. Amirul liked it from the start. Though it is much bigger than the flat in Robin Hood Gardens, their mother thought it too small. She thought this because the family’s life in Robin Hood Gardens was not just inside the flat, there was also the landings, the garden and other people’s homes. All those people and their intermingled lives, it was a world in itself and collectively much bigger than the new house.

‘It was not easy to leave,’ Amirul confided, ‘But once word got out that we had accepted this house, virtually everyone came to help. People were crying. Some drove our things over to Mile End and others were desperate to move in next to us. Yet some people did stop talking to us, feeling cheated that we had left, as if we had left them behind.’

Although he missed Robin Hood Gardens, Amirul confessed it feels surreal when he goes back. He said, ‘It feels like a porthole to me now, there are so many gaps which used to be full of so much life.’

Finally, we went out into the garden to take a family photo. In one corner was a plum tree that Rugena’s mother grew from seed on the landing at Robin Hood Gardens and then transplanted into the earth at her new home. It was the perfect place to take the picture.

Rugena Ali

Sahedul Islam

Amirun Nessa

Amirul Islam

In the garden at Mile End

Happy Days At Robin Hood Gardens

Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie

If you live or once lived in Robin Hood Gardens and would like to tell your story, please contact Spitalfieldslife@gmail.com

You may like to read the earlier parts of this story

At Robin Hood Gardens

Return to Robin Hood Gardens

Today’s story is the fifth of seven features by Contributing Writer Delwar Hussain and the first in a series of three related stories exploring the fate of Robin Hood Gardens housing estate in Poplar

Like many superheroes, Robin Hood had a thing for coloured tights and strange headgear. In common with other fantasy figures, Robin also had a favourite colour – in his case green – and spent his time opposing the tyranny of the powerful elites. Yet unlike some of his fictional colleagues, he did not have special powers, no flying or ability to become invisible. Instead, he had a merry band who stole from the rich and gave to the poor. The theme of his ‘Adventures of Robin Hood’ series has these lyrics:

“He came to Sherwood Forest with a feather in his cap

A fighter never looking for a fight

His bow was always ready, and he kept his arrows sharp

He used them to fight for what was right.”

.

I would like to imagine that Alison & Peter Smithson might have hummed along to these lines if the show came on their grainy black and white television set in their architecture studio in the sixties. The pair had been charged with designing a public housing estate in a neighbourhood of Poplar that would become ‘Robin Hood Gardens’ and it was a highly appropriate name for their project.

The tale of Robin Hood proposes an allegory of the Welfare State and the redistribution of wealth of the few throughout the whole of society, based upon the belief that everyone, regardless of how much or how little they have, should have free access to the basics of healthcare, education and a home. More than an ambitious idea, it was a revolutionary endeavour.

Yet, less than fifty years after the first families moved into Robin Hood Gardens, it is to be torn down as part of the £500 million Blackwall Reach Regeneration Project, which might equally be described as a redevelopment, a land grab or an act of social cleansing – depending upon your point of view.

The undertaking is a joint venture between Tower Hamlets Council and Swan Housing Group that will see 1,575 new homes built over ten years. When Swan’s bid was accepted by the Council in 2011, it was on the basis that half the homes would be ‘affordable,’ yet Swan’s website now says the majority will be for the rich and just a third, only 560 homes, will be social housing.

Earlier this year, a group of architects failed in an attempt to get Robin Hood Gardens listed, protecting the buildings from demolition. Consecutive campaigns led by residents have been ignored by the Council and their calls for refurbishment of the buildings rejected.

It was a listless day when Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie & I visited Robin Hood Gardens. The sky was so low you could almost touch it, yet the pair of long concrete buildings that the Smithsons created were truly a sight to behold. Conceived in the ‘Brutalist’ style, they face each another across a garden with a mound in the centre. They are beasts of buildings, grotesque, petrifying even – but alluring and sublime at the same time – as if you were gazing up at a sheer rock face or the protective walls of a medieval fortress built to keep out marauders.

We walked around the periphery of the first of the edifices which houses flats 1 to 104. Deserted now, the residents have already been dispersed or – to use the official jargon – ‘decanted.’ The doors have been boarded up and numbered haphazardly with red paint like plague dwellings, while in the gardens roses, lavender and parsley continue to grow in spite of their abandonment.

Satellite dishes clung to the concrete walls like fungus. It made me wonder what the exodus looked like when the residents departed. Notices warning of ‘Potential Asbestos Hazard’ have been put up deter would-be intruders, even though the inhabitants lived alongside this implied threat for years

One motive for support of the ‘redevelopment’ among some residents was the Council’s lack of maintenance of Robin Hood Gardens. It was a comment I heard over and over again from residents and those who once lived there. I found old graffiti – Mick your mum – intermingled with more recent examples – ROTEN – with the second ‘T’ missing for lack of space and – TORN. Through the grimy windows, the accoutrements of everyday life were still visible where exposed light bulbs dangled like nooses, while the different styles, colours and textures of curtains and wallpapers echoed the former occupants, revealing their personal tastes and aspirations.

Pinned to a lamp post was a weathered notice dated 25th October 2015, stating that the Blackwall Reach Compulsory Purchase Order 2013 submitted by Tower Hamlets Council had been upheld by the Secretary of State for Communities & Local Government. The order gave the go-ahead for the Council’s compulsory purchase of flats. The purpose of the order, the notice said, is ‘for carrying out development, redevelopment and improvement of the area’ to ‘contribute to achieving the promotion or improvement of the economic, social or environmental well-being of the area.’ Yet this ominous notice failed to mention who the eventual beneficiaries of the improvement will be.

Standing in the shadow of the building, I noticed a strange silence, existing in spite of the constant traffic entering and leaving the nearby Blackwall Tunnel which gushes around the estate like a river. The Smithsons’ original design included concrete sound buffers but they could never have envisaged how the area would be transformed by the Canary Wharf development that surrounds Robin Hood Gardens today.

Outside the estate playground there was another notice, warning children to be wary of strangers. A boy in a baseball cap walked past. The boy and this stranger looked at one another. Taking no notice of the sign, he talked to me. His name was Adil. He appeared to be about thirteen years old. His grandmother lived in the now-deserted building before she was re-housed in autumn of 2015, he told me.

He pointed to the shiny, pre-fabricated flats just over the road where she now lived. This is part of what Swan call ‘Phase 1a’ of the project, where two andoyne new blocks housing some of the decanted residents from Robin Hood Gardens. Phase 1a also includes the construction of a new mosque, playground and a community centre.

‘Is your grandmother happy in the new place?’ I asked.

‘I don’t know,’ Adil replied, ‘She can see her old flat through her new windows and she keeps saying how the old building is full of her memories.’

‘What sort of memories?’ I queried.

‘You know. Of living here, raising my mum and my aunt, that sort of thing.’

‘Do you know when these buildings will to be knocked down?’ I enquired.

“I don’t. I don’t think anyone does, but my grandmother said that the football pitch and the park in the middle will stay.”

‘You must be happy about that?’ I suggested.

‘Maybe? Depends if we’re allowed to still use them,’ he replied.

I told Adil I would like to speak to his grandmother about her memories and wrote my phone number on a piece of paper for him. No sooner did he leave than the strange silence descended again yet I picked up another sound. It was faint but I was sure I heard it. I strained my ear to listen for it again. There it was – a beep – every minute or so, coming from the belly of the building and echoing around the empty carcass. It was a smoke detector in one of the flats, waiting to have its battery replaced. Like a pulse, a heartbeat, it was calling out to tell anyone passing that the building was alive. It was still living.

The second of the two buildings is taller than the first and houses flats 105 – 214. Most of this is still inhabited and the smell of warm spices pervades, but there is something about it that gives off the sense that it has been condemned. When Secretaries of State and Members of Parliament have written you off and global capital investment is circling, you do not have too many options left, other than a miracle or a superhero, perhaps.

From here too, the sounds of life continued to reverberate, refusing to be quietened. I heard the voices of London in Sylheti, Polish, Somali and English. ‘Kelly you’re getting on my nerves,’ someone shouted. Someone else was doing DIY, hammering into a concrete wall, unperturbed that the building was destined to be cleared and knocked down.

A man in a pair of sunglasses opened the main door and I asked whether he will allow us in.

‘You architects?’ he enquired in a thick cockney accent.

‘Do we look like architects?’ I smiled.

‘There have been loads coming and going recently.

‘No, we’re just curious about the community here and what they will do when these buildings are knocked down.’

‘I’m looking forward to it,’ he stated adamantly, ‘It’s about time. There are people here ‘chasing the dragon’ in broad daylight. I’ve been coming here for the last twenty years but have lived here for the past five and the problem has just got worse.’

‘Will knocking the building down solve the drug problem?’ I suggested.

‘Probably not, but I have neighbours who never use the staircase, they don’t know what they will find. Hopefully the new place won’t be like this…”

‘Aren’t you worried about being moved out of the area to somewhere you have no connection to?’

‘If we’re moved to Birmingham…?’ he queried.

‘Birmingham?’ I interrupted, ‘I was thinking of Stratford or someplace like that.’

‘I know some people who have been moved to Birmingham, that’s just the way it is.’ he assured me, ‘I have a full time job and need to live around here, but to them, it doesn’t really matter where they are – they don’t have jobs, they’re claiming benefits, they could do that from anywhere.’

Sarah & I took the lift to the top floor. On one side, we saw Canary Wharf, the Millennium Dome, the Emirates Cable Car, the Olympic Park and Balfron Tower (another Brutalist building in Poplar built as social housing, yet now being sold privately as luxury flats). From the other side, past the garden and the abandoned building, the views are telling. Ahead, in the City, grows a forest of gleaming towers including the Shard, the Grater, the Gherkin and the Natwest building. They loom over Robin Hood Gardens as if to assert, ‘Give it up, your time is up.’

All along the large, wide landing, not one door was the same as another – they had all been personalised. Stickers on windows proclaimed ‘Back the Bid – Olympics 2012’ –‘Burglars Beware’ and ‘I’m helping to save lives:lifeboats.‘ There were coconut trees growing in plastic pots, a chilli plant here and a lemon tree there, all healthy and thriving.

Back outside, we encountered an old lady in the gardens pulling clumps of a tall plant out of the ground. She wore a black hijab with strands of her grey hair concealed below a canary yellow scarf.  She explained that she had grown the mustard and come back to pick it. She lived on the second floor of this building, raising six children there before she was decanted across the road into the same new building as Adil’s grandmother, the boy I had met earlier.

‘At Robin Hood Gardens, we had space,’ she said, without stopping what she was doing, ‘We had a breeze, we had light, but now we are living in boxes, that’s what the new place is like. I’m on the ninth floor, can you believe, an old lady like me?’

‘What do you think of Robin Hood Gardens?’

‘Some people thought it ugly but I found it beautiful. They didn’t fix anything so that’s why it’s in the state that it’s in. I always said that if they spent the money to fix it and not knock it down, then that would be better, but who am I to be heard, nobody? These buildings were solid, built to last until the end of time. The new ones aren’t like this – in ten years time they will say that they too have gone bad and knock them down.’

‘So why did you leave?’

‘We had to. Unless we took the flat they offered, there was no guarantee – they said – that we could continue living in this area. But once the new buildings are completed, we will be allowed to come back. They showed us the paperwork. We are just temporary over there in those buildings, not legal. We will be back.’

I did not understand what she meant when she said she would be back once the new buildings were built. Much later, I discovered that all kinds of promises were made to residents to bring them on side, including a promise that they would be allowed to move back into the new flats that are to be built.

‘What will you do with the mustard plants?’ I asked.

‘I’ll keep some and I’ll give some to the people who now live in my flat in Robin Hood Gardens,’ she admitted, ‘They are a nice family. I tell them that I lived there for twenty-one years and no-one knows more about the flat than I do. They don’t mind me visiting. They give me tea and ask me how to fix things there.’

(This feature continues tomorrow)

Click to enlarge this panorama of Robin Hood Gardens

Photographs copyright © Sarah Ainslie

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Today’s story is the fourth of seven features by Contributing Writer Delwar Hussain

Halima Blacker is perched on the edge of the table, head tilted to one side, mouth ajar. Like a surgeon with a scalpel, she draws a line over an eyebrow with absolute precision. In her other hand, smeared in colours that resemble bruises, she holds a palette of paints.

Halima is a make-up artist and we are in her attic studio overlooking the rooftops of Brick Lane. Her friend Zahra Idrissi, whom she is working on, is a soul singer and lives a few streets away.

Around them, the table as well as the rest of the room is overflowing with containers crammed with brushes and sponges, pens and bottles, tubs, tubes, jars, vials and trays. There are racks of liquids and powders, things that squirt, others that spew, some that pump, or burst or spray. They have names like Liquid Suede, Intense Retinal Fluid, Liquid Metal, Le Style Ultra Slim & Aqua Cream. Colours range from cyan or peach tornado to jungle and soft ochre. There are brushes that look like spring flower buds, others that resemble the heads of little birds or the tails of furry creatures.

Halima mostly works in silence even though reggae music plays from a mobile phone. At one point, she stops and she and Zahra talk about Grace Jones, Kim Kardashian and the Hottentot Venus all in one breath. The process is intimate, tactile and visceral. Quick, delicate waves and sweeps across a cheekbone, a cotton bud below an eye to merge colours together and finger tips to pat colour in. All of this is occasionally broken up with instructions for Zahra.

“E” Halima says.

“EEEEEEEE,” Zahra repeats, stretching her mouth as far back as possible so that she can apply colour on the contours of her lips.

“Don’t blend yet, it needs to dry.”

Zahra keeps her mouth open but has stopped EEEEEEing.

“Ok, blend….” Halima instructs.

Zahra brings her lips together and gently squeezes them, smudging the various tones together to make a different shade from the ones applied.

“……that will make the colour pop,” Halima says, “like you’ve had a raspberry and it’s stained your lips.”

With another look, I watch as Halima takes a honeycomb stencil, places it onto Zahra’s forehead and dabs it with fluorescent pink powder.

“That’s done,” she announces. “It’s messy, but I like it.”

“Really, what about my lips,” Zahra asks, confused.

“I’m drawing them on your hands.”

“Oh really,” Zahra replies, “that’s ‘sick,’” and they both burst into laughter.

Zahra now looks part-reptilian, part-something-that-has-emerged-out-of-sixties-Pop-Art-or-nineties-Acid-House. But it is not finished until she puts her hand with the lips painted on it next to her mouth in the style of The Thinker by Rodin and suddenly it all changes. It reminds me of Picasso’s, Weeping Woman or Woman Wearing Yellow Hat (Jaqueline). Yet Halima’s work is not static, or one-dimensional on a canvas, or – in this case – even on a face. It moves, acts and reacts. Zahra pulls her phone out and makes a video of herself and uploads it onto Snapchat giving it new life and incarnations.

It may be too easy to say that what Halima does is an extension of the graffiti that lines Brick Lane where she has lived all her life, but it emerges out of the same place and time. She is not limited to just faces or hands either, her studio is packed full of jewellery that she also makes. It all blends different styles and forms – from Fine Art to Performance to Craft, as well as urban street culture, music and fashion.

Halima tells me that she has been making people up since she was six, when her older sister gave her lipstick samples from Avon. She remembers painting her cousin’s faces, doing different themes and, from that, she progressed to weddings.

“Brides usually want to look as different to their real self as possible,” Halima says. “They want a defined nose, sculpted cheekbones, chiselled this and highlighted that. They want to hide what they think are their imperfections. The funny thing is that they always say they want it natural, but this requires a huge amount of make-up.”

Today Halima works on music videos and fashion shoots, yet it is her own work that she feels most connected to. “I use make-up to create something, rather than just to make someone beautiful or blend in. I love colour and I love experimenting with texture. I like using make-up to communicate whatever I’m feeling. People may feel free, but looking at what they put on their faces you can see that they are trapped. I hear people say that they have never put green on their face – for example – or blue, which I find strange. I think what I do helps them to express a sense of freedom.”

Halima stamps Zahra’s mouth with an ink pad. I ask what it says on it.

“The world of reality has its limits but the world of imagination is boundless.”

“Don’t focus too much on what it says,” she tells me, “I’m using it more for how it looks” – yet I like these words, they are entirely appropriate.

Halima Blacker

Photographs © Sarah Ainslie

Arrange your make-up session with Halima at www.makeupsurgery.net

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