Townhouse Open 2023 (Part One)
What is this curious architectural excrescence and why is it at the rear of the Bank of England? Join my City of London tour next weekend to find out. There are only two left this summer – Sunday 2nd July and Sunday 6th August at 2pm.
Enjoy a storytelling ramble across the Square Mile, from the steps of St Paul’s through the narrow alleys and lanes to the foot of old London Bridge, in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City of London.
Click here to book THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOURS for June & July
In celebration of Townhouse Open, Part One (Paintings & Drawings) which opens today, I have selected a few favourites to show you.
Gary Arber, Peta Bridle
‘I visited Gary during his last week of trading. Businesses and buildings close and disappear at an alarming rate in London, but Gary’s print works were opened by his grandfather in 1897 and shut in 2014. It was my privilege to meet Gary in person and make this visual record.’
Lewisham Landscape (Snow), Amelia Power
‘Although my work begins with observation, memory and imagination form a crucial part of my process. I am interested in making the familiar seem strange. Many of my paintings explore the relationship between plants and the built environment and the tension between them. This painting is of the view from my window in South East London that I paint regularly throughout the year – I was mesmerised by the pink sky.’
Wild Flowers, Andrea Humphries
‘My still lives often start with botanical drawings made outdoors in a park or garden when a plant or a flower catches my eye, and I take it back to the studio. I made Wild Flowers after a woodland walk where I noticed wild anemones and violets growing in the shade of oak trees, like tender sparks of hope. Flowers are restorative, evoking feelings of happiness and contentment, and I can imagine this jug of woodland stems on my kitchen table.’
Evening Shadows, Caroline Bowder-Ridger
‘My work is a response to the complex patterns, shapes and textures of the city. I am fascinated by the way human habitation leaves scars, textures and memories for future generations. Our needs and activities are constantly changing, feeding the energy of an ancient city. The act of mark-making, layering and creating texture as I rework the painting reflects my experience of the grain of the urban environment.’
Corner of Page St, Diana Sandetskaya
‘I have been observing North London and reflecting on the emotional responses evoked by locations dependent on the time of day, weather or season, and coloured by moods and experience. This is a favourite corner in my neighbourhood. Walking there one evening, I loved the soft colours of the night with the streetlight and light from the car illuminating the tree … it was calm and peaceful but mysteriously enchanting at the same time.’
Jug with Two Apples, Eleanor Crow
‘This small still life is painted contre jour, against the light on a bright day in April. I was interested in the ochre and raw sienna of the small apples – the last of the year – against the blue and white china, and the light catching the rim of the jug and casting a strong blue shadow across the china plate. Simple objects that we handle daily suggest a human presence. I wanted to convey how they had just been placed there for a moment, in that particular position, in that particular light.’
Whitechapel Market, Elizabeth Nast
‘I love the hustle and bustle of the markets of the East End. Every day they open up, just as thy have always done and the fact that the action of buying and selling continues to this day is a marvel. My personal connection with Whitechapel began in the 1890s with my great-grandfather, a police constable, whose beat consisted of Whitechapel and it was there he met his wife, a milkmaid from Wales. They never imagined that one hundred and thirty years later, one of their descendants would be walking the same streets.’
Little Ruby, Janet Keith
‘My approach is to begin without preconceived ideas. I activate the blank surface with spontaneous, intuitive marks and respond to them with others as the painting evolves – weaving together the spontaneous and the considered. Sometimes I can discern visual parallels to familiar surroundings, colours or contours of landscapes, cadences of birdsong, rhythms of music playing in the studio. But I do not speculate too much about where my paintings come from.’
Church St at Dusk, Jane Young
‘I grew interested in Christ Church, Spitalfields, when it was suggested that my great grandparents were married there. This painting is a result of my research scribblings, an odd hybrid of thirty years of census returns and different editions of Kelly’s directories – a strange, imagined street spanning decades in one moment.’
The Road to Whitechapel, John Bartlett
‘Whilst walking to the Whitechapel Art Gallery as a post-lockdown outing, I came across these buildings. At the time, London was just easing itself out of social distancing restrictions and people were tentatively returning to the streets. In Commercial St, these buildings stood alone as though the remnants of an abandoned film set, a backdrop waiting for life to unfurl again.’
Pause (II), Matt Bannister
‘I am fascinated by urban life. The drama created by natural and artificial light attracts me. Strong shadows and highlights can transform the familiar into something more atmospheric and compelling, and this painting was inspired by the experience of time passing during the recent lockdowns.’
April Trees, Michelle Mason
‘Painting and sketching in Victoria Park, I worked on a series of small paintings to capture the low, spring light through the trees skirting the oldest part of the park. These mature trees are horse chestnut, oak and London planes with new leaves just emerging after winter.’
Mile End Station, Stewart Smith
‘I was born and brought up in Hackney, and am currently engaged in a series of oil paintings about East London. I have also painted the East End and Greenwich, where I live today. ’
Kensington Palace to Marble Arch, Natalie Newsom
‘This painting captures my memories of a walk through Hyde Park from Kensington Palace to Marble Arch. It was March, and purple and yellow crocuses had broken through, parakeets were chattering, people were out and about enjoying the first signs of spring. All the while, I was taking in the smells, sounds and colours to create a visual representation. With the help of an audio recording, I created this painting from memory as an interpretation of my sensory experience, using marks to represent sounds like the thrum of a car engine or muffled chitter-chatter.’
A Stolen Glimpse, Suzanne McGilloway
‘Well known for its shabby pink facade, this Spitalfields townhouse was built in 1723. Today it is rented for events and as a filming location. I peered through the hole in the door where the shiny brass doorknob had recently been stolen. I crouched and caught my breath. The view on the other side was so atmospheric, it was other-worldly. The light from the window flooded into the stairwell, the panelling and well-worn staircase, revealing evidence of centuries of immigrant families that made it their home.’
Borough Market, Nicholas Borden
This market has never been so busy with a constant flow of newcomers keen to sample what is on offer. After a thousand years of history, it remains a draw for visitors and sustains itself, stronger than ever, despite the setbacks of lockdowns and a terror attack.
In The Lavender Fields Of Surrey
Click here to book THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOURS for June & July
I cannot imagine a more relaxing way to enjoy a sunny English summer afternoon than a walk through a field of lavender. Observe the subtle tones of blue, extending like a mist to the horizon and rippling like the surface of the sea as the wind passes over. Inhale the pungent fragrance carried on the breeze. Delight in the orange butterflies dancing over the plants. Spot the pheasants scuttling away and – if you are as lucky as I was – encounter a red fox stalking the game birds through the forest of lavender. What an astonishing colour contrast his glossy russet pelt made as he disappeared into the haze of blue and green plants.
Lavender has been grown on the Surrey Downs for centuries and sold in summer upon the streets of the capital by itinerant traders. The aromatic properties and medicinal applications of lavender have always been appreciated, with each year’s new crop signalling the arrival of summer in London.
The lavender growing tradition in Surrey is kept alive by Mayfield Lavender in Banstead where visitors may stroll through fields of different varieties and then enjoy lavender ice cream or a cream tea with a lavender scone afterwards, before returning home laden with lavender pillows, soap, honey and oil.
Let me confess, I had given up on lavender – it had become the smell most redolent of sanitary cleaning products. But now I have learnt to distinguish between the different varieties and found a preference for a delicately-fragranced English lavender by the name of Folgate, I have rediscovered it again. My entire house is scented with it and the soporific qualities are evident. At the end of that sunny afternoon, when I returned from my excursion to the lavender fields of Surrey, I sat down in my armchair and did not awake again until supper time.
‘Six bunches a penny, sweet lavender!’ is the cry that invites in the street the purchasers of this cheap and pleasant perfume. A considerable quantity of the shrub is sold to the middling-classes of the inhabitants, who are fond of placing lavender among their linen – the scent of which conquers that of the soap used in washing. – William Craig Marshall’s Itinerant Traders, 1804
‘Delight in the orange butterflies dancing over the plants…’
Thomas Rowlandson’s Characteristic Series of the Lower Orders, 1820
‘Six Bunches a-Penny, Sweet Lavender – Six Bunches a-Penny, Sweet Blooming Lavender’ from Luke Clennell’s London Melodies, 1812
‘Spot the pheasants scuttling away…’
From Aunt Busy Bee’s New London Cries
Card issued with Grenadier Cigarettes in 1902
WWI veteran selling lavender bags by Julius Mendes Price, 1919
Yardley issued Old English Lavender talcum powder tins from 1913 incorporating Francis Wheatley’s flower seller of 1792
Archive images courtesy Bishopsgate Institute
Leo Epstein, Epra Fabrics
Let me take you underground and show you this lost fragment of the Roman Wall marooned in a subterranean car park. There are only two left this summer – Sunday 2nd July and Sunday 6th August at 2pm
Enjoy a storytelling ramble across the Square Mile, from the steps of St Paul’s through the narrow alleys and lanes to the foot of old London Bridge, in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City of London.
Click here to book tickets for my Spitalfields and my City of London tours
Leo Epstein
When the genial Leo Epstein, proprietor of Epra Fabrics said to me, “I am the last Jewish trader on Brick Lane,” he said it with such a modest balanced tone that I knew he was just stating a fact and not venturing a comment.
“If you’re not a tolerant sort of person you wouldn’t be in Brick Lane,” he added before scooting across the road to ask his neighbour at the Islamic shop to turn down the Friday prayer just a little. “I told him he can have it as loud as he wants after one o’clock when I’ve gone home,” he explained cheerily on his return. “We all get on very well,” he confirmed.”As one of my Bengali neighbours said to me, ‘On Brick Lane, we do business not politics.'”
While his son was in Israel organising Leo’s grandson’s wedding, Leo was running the shop single-handedly, yet he managed – with the ease and grace of over half a century of experience – to maintain the following monologue whilst serving a string of customers, cutting bolts of fabric, answering the endless phone calls and arranging a taxi to collect an order of ten rolls of velvet.
“I started in 1956, when I got married. I used to work for a company of fabric wholesalers and one of our customers on Brick Lane said, “There’s a shop to let on the corner, why don’t you take it?” The rent was £6.50 a week and I used to lie awake at night thinking, “Where am I going to find it?” You could live on £10 a week then. My partner was Rajchman and initially we couldn’t decide which name should come first, combining the first two letters of our names, but then we realised that “Raep” Fabrics was not a good trade name and so we became “Epra” Fabrics.
In no time, we expanded and moved to this place where we are today. In those days, it was the thing to go into, the fabric trade – the City was a closed shop to Jewish people. My father thought that anything to do with rebuilding would be a good trade for me after the war and so I studied Structural Engineering but all the other students were rich children of developers. They drove around in new cars while I was the poor student who could barely afford my bus fare. So I said to my father, “I’m not going to do this.” And the openings were in the shmutter trade, I didn’t ever see myself working in an office. And I’ve always been happy, I like the business. I like the social part.
In just a few years, the first Indians came to the area, it’s always been a changing neighbourhood.The first to come were the Sikhs in their turbans, and each group that came brought their trades with them. The Sikhs were the first to print electronic circuits and they had contacts in the Far East, they brought the first calculators. And then came the Pakistanis, the brought the leather trade with them. And the Bengalis came and they were much poorer than the others. They came on their own, as single men, at first. The head of the family, the father would come to earn the money to send for the rest of the family. And since they didn’t have women with them, they opened up canteens to feed themselves and then it became trendy for City gents to come and eat curry here and that was the origin of the curry restaurants that fill Brick Lane today.
Slowly all the Jewish people moved away and all their businesses closed down. Twenty years ago, Brick Lane was a run down inner city area, people didn’t feel safe – and it still has that image even though it’s a perfectly safe place to be. I’ve always like it here.”
At any time over the last half a century, you could have walked up Fashion St, crossed Brick Lane and entered Epra Fabrics to be greeted by Leo, saying “Good morning! May I help you?’ with respect and civility. After all those years, it was no exaggeration when he said, “Everyone knows me as Leo.” A tall yet slight man, always formally dressed with a kippa, he hovered at the cash desk, standing sentinel with a view through the door and West along Fashion St to the towers of the City.
In his shop you found an unrivalled selection of silks and satins. “This is Brick Lane not Park Lane,” was one of Leo’s favourite sayings, indicating that nothing cost more than a couple of pounds a metre. “We only like to take care of the ladies,” was another, indicating the nature of the stock, which was strong in dress fabrics.
“I lived through the war here, so the attack wasn’t really that big a deal,” he said with a shrug, commenting on the Brick Lane nail bomb of 1999 laid by racist David Copeland, which blew out the front of his shop, “Luckily nobody was seriously hurt because on a Saturday everything is closed round here, it’s a tradition going back to when it was a Jewish area, where everything would close for the Sabbath.”
“Many of the Asian shop owners come in from time to time and say,’Oh good, you’re still here! Why don’t you come and have a meal on us?’ You can’t exist if you don’t get on with everybody else. It was, in a way, a weirdly pleasant time to see how everyone pulled together.” he concluded dryly, revealing how shared experiences brought him solidarity with his neighbours.
Leo Epstein was the last working representative of the time when Brick Lane and Wentworth St was a Jewish ghetto and the heart of the schmutter trade, but to me he also exemplified the best of the egalitarian spirit that exists in Brick Lane, defining it as the place where different peoples co-exist peacefully.
Among The Druids On Primrose Hill
Architects and engineers puzzle over what to do with a poor lonely facade in the City of London yesterday. Join my walk through the Square Mile and learn more about facadism. There are only two left this summer – Sunday 2nd July and Sunday 6th August at 2pm
Enjoy a storytelling ramble across the Square Mile, from the steps of St Paul’s through the narrow alleys and lanes to the foot of old London Bridge, in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City of London.
Click here to book tickets for my Spitalfields and my City of London tours
In the grove of sacred hawthorn
One Midsummer years ago, my friend the photographer Colin O’Brien & I joined the celebrants of the Loose Association of Druids on Primrose Hill for the solstice festival hosted by Jay the Tailor, Druid of Wormwood Scrubs. As the most prominent geological feature in the Lower Thames Valley, it seems likely that this elevated site has been a location for rituals since before history began.
Yet this particular event owes its origin to Edward Williams, a monumental mason and poet better known by his bardic name Iolo Morganwg, who founded the Gorsedd community of Welsh bards here on Primrose Hill in June 1792. He claimed he was reviving an ancient rite, citing John Tollund who in 1716 summoned the surviving druids by trumpet to come together and form a Universal Bond.
Consequently, the Druids began their observance by gathering to honour their predecessor at Morganwg’s memorial plaque on the viewing platform at the top of the hill, where they corralled bewildered tourists and passing dog walkers into a circle to recite his Gorsedd prayer in an English translation. From here, the Druids processed to the deep shade of the nearby sacred grove of hawthorn where biscuits and soft drinks were laid upon a tablecloth with a bunch of wild flowers and some curious wooden utensils.
Following at Jay the Tailor’s shoulder as we strode across the long grass, I could not resist asking about the origin of his staff of hawthorn intertwined with ivy. “It was before I became a Druid, when I was losing my Christian faith,” he confessed to me, “I was attending a County Fair and a stick maker who had Second Sight offered to make it for me for fifteen pounds.” Before I could ask more, we arrived in the grove and it was time to get the ritual organised. Everyone was as polite and good humoured as at a Sunday school picnic.
A photocopied order of service was distributed, we formed a circle, and it was necessary to select a Modron to stand in the west, a Mabon to stand in the north, a Thurifer to stand in the east and a Celebrant to stand in the South. Once we all had practised chanting our Greek vowels while processing clockwise, Jay the Tailor rapped his staff firmly on the ground and we were off. A narrow wooden branch – known as the knife that cannot cut – was passed around and we each introduced ourselves.
In spite of the apparent exoticism of the event and the groups of passersby stopping in their tracks to gaze in disbelief, there was a certain innocent familiarity about the proceedings – which celebrated nature, the changing season and the spirit of the place. In the era of the French and the American Revolutions, Iolo Morganwr declared Freedom of Thought, Freedom of Speech and Freedom of Association. Notions that retain strong resonance to this day.
Once the ritual wound up, we had exchanged kisses of peace Druid-style and everyone ate a biscuit with a gulp of apple juice, I was able to ask Jay the Tailor more questions.“I lost my Christian faith because I studied Theology and I found it difficult to believe Jesus was anything other than a human being, even though I do feel he was a very important guide and I had a personal experience of Jesus when I met Him on the steps of Oxford Town Hall,” he admitted, leaving me searching for a response.
“When I was fourteen, I went up Cader Idris at Midsummer and spent all night and the next day there, and the next night I had a vision of Our Lady of Mists & Sheep,” he continued helpfully,“but that just added to my confusion.” I nodded sagely in response.“I came to Druids through geometry, through studying the heavens and recognising there is an order of things,” he explained to me, “mainly because I am a tailor and a pattern cutter, so I understand sacred geometry.” By now, the other Druids were packing up, disposing of the litter from the picnic in the park bins and heading eagerly towards the pub. It had been a intriguing afternoon upon Primrose Hill.
“Do not tell the priest of our plight for he would call it a sin, but we have been out in the woods all night, a-conjuring the Summer in!” – Rudyard Kipling
Sun worshippers on Primrose Hill
Memorial to Iolo Morganwg who initiated the ritual on Primrose Hill in 1792
Peter Barker, Thurifer – “I felt I was a pagan for many years. I always liked gods and goddesses, and the annual festivals are part of my life and you meet a lot of good people.”
Maureen – “I’m a Druid, a member of O.B.O.D. (the Order of Bards, Ovates & Druids), and I’ve done all three grades”
Sarah Louise Smith – “I’m training to be a druid with O.B.O.D. at present”
Simeon Posner, Astrologer – “It helps my soul to mature, seeing the life cycle and participating in it”
John Leopold – “I have pagan inclinations”
Jay the Tailor, Druid of Wormwood Scrubs
Iolo Morgamwg (Edward Williams) Poet & Monumental Mason, 1747-1826
Photographs copyright © Estate of Colin O’Brien
You may also like to read about
Peta’s Bridle’s Watery London
Let me show you this 18th century graffiti on St Paul’s Cathedral…join my walk through the City of London. There are only two left this summer – Sunday 2nd July and Sunday 6th August at 2pm
Enjoy a storytelling ramble across the Square Mile, from the steps of St Paul’s through the narrow alleys and lanes to the foot of old London Bridge, in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City of London.
Click here to book tickets for my Spitalfields and my City of London tours
Today it is my pleasure to publish Peta Bridle‘s new drawings and captions, all on a watery theme
Pump, St. Leonard’s Churchyard, Shoreditch
This churchyard is a quiet place to draw despite the procession of traffic and buses beyond the railings. A brolly propped over my legs kept my drawing dry in the drizzle. I returned a few days later to make a second pencil sketch and the ground was carpeted with daisies and celandines, and geraniums had been planted around the base of the pump. I met the gardener who told me stories of the area and its people, and kindly made me a cup of tea. The cast iron pump has lost its handle and the nozzle is only a stump now but it once provided clean drinking water to local people. A spring rises beneath the pump that is the source of the ‘suer’ from which Shoreditch got its name and which became the river Walbrook when it reached the City of London. A well has been on this spot since Roman times.
Cody Dock, River Lea
A colourful bridge spans the river here. Cody Dock is now a community space with a cafe and gardens. The bridge was built in 1871 to unload coal from barges but, before that, the area was marshland.
Cannon St Station seen from Bankside
Last year I visited a rooftop garden at Bankside overlooking Cannon St Station across the river.
Coal Drops Yard, King’s Cross
Thirty years ago when I first moved to London I rented a flat near King’s Cross Station. At the time I found the rundown streets surrounding the old station forbidding and would not even venture down them, though now I wish I had. Coal Drops Yard was the goods yard receiving and storing coal arriving from the north by rail. In 2018, the area was transformed and old buildings repurposed into shops and restaurants to become a tourist destination. The Regent’s Canal winds around the side of the yard, separating it from the station.
Nelson Dry Dock, Rotherhithe
To reach Nelson Dry Dock involves walking in thick soft mud. Engineers Mills & Knight Ltd Ship Repairs is painted in bold red lettering around the yellow wrought iron gate. The dock closed in 1968 and now sits within a hotel complex. You only get this view from the foreshore or the water.
Battersea Power Station
I sat out on the coal jetty facing the great bulk of the power station to make my sketch until the cold and drizzle drove me inside. Located on the south bank of the Thames, the decommissioned Grade II coal-powered station is now redeveloped as a destination with flats, shops and restaurants – quite an amazing place to visit.
Padlock by W.M. & A. Quiney, Rotherhithe
William Matthew Quiney and his brother Alfred took over their father’s nail-making business on Paradise St, Rotherhithe, in 1865. They opened three warehouses and their iron and steel merchants’ business was still trading in 1910. This padlock and chain, which has the maker’s name stamped upon it, is from the wonderful collection of items found by mudlark Monika Buttling-Smith and reproduced with her kind permission.
Ragged School Museum, Mile End
A view of the school across the Regent’s Canal. It opened in 1877 to provide education for the children of Mile End and is now a museum, showing the reality of Victorian life for the poor.
Religious river finds
Three religious offerings found in the Thames including a clay pot for burning incense, a Ganesh statue and a golden amulet tied with string. Drawn with kind permission of mudlark Monika Buttling-Smith.
Star Yard Urinal, Holborn
This beautiful Victorian urinal is in Star Yard Alley off Chancery Lane. Painted pale blue, decorated in patterns and a royal coat of arms, it has survived in situ to this day. I made my sketch on a Sunday afternoon and a few passers by queried why I was drawing an old toilet. Geoffrey Fletcher – my drawing hero – sketched the urinal in the sixties and I was happy to discover it still here, even if no longer in use.
St Clement’s Watch House, Strand Lane
The Old Watch House can be found downhill from the Strand and not far from Charing Cross Station. Behind the railings is a Roman bathhouse which was once a cistern, later used as a bathing pool. Where I was sitting, I could hear a singer practising scales mixed with the sound of water gurgling down a drain.
Barge Master & Swan Marker, St James Garlickhythe
Outside St James Garlickhythe stands this beautiful bronze statue of the Vintner’s Swan Marker with a swan at his feet. The Vintners’ are one of the twelve Great Livery Companies of the City of London and jointly, with the Dyers’ Livery Company and the Crown, they own the swans on the River Thames. Each July, during Swan Upping, the swans are marked or ringed. The Swan Marker wears the traditional Barge Master’s uniform.
Lions, Trafalgar Square
The fountains and Nelsons Column are guarded by Sir Edwin Landseer’s four great lions. They offer a popular spot for selfies today, with parents shoving their children up on to the pedestal for pictures and tourists clambered all over it. Although the square was later swamped by crowds of protestors, I did manage to complete my drawing in time before I went home.
Holborn Viaduct over the hidden River Fleet
Red and gold dragons guard the bridge, while the subterranean River Fleet flows beneath Holborn Viaduct to join the Thames at Blackfriars. Beyond is Smithfield Market which will become the site for the new London Museum.
Watergate Steps, Deptford
A cobbled dead end alley takes you to Watergate Steps and the river, where I was down on the shore by 7am to catch the low tide. Drawing with my back to the river, I was aware the tide had turned and the water was slowly creeping back up the beach, so I made a swift pencil sketch within the hour. Along the Thames, there were once many stairs and steps serving as points where watermen gathered in their boats to row passengers up, down or across the river. Watergate Steps would have been a landing for the ferry over to the Isle of Dogs.
Drawings copyright © Peta Bridle
You may also like to take a look at
Peta Bridle’s London Viewpoints
Peta Bridle’s East End Sketchbook
Peta Bridle’s Riverside Sketchbook
Peta Bridle’s Gravesend Sketchbook
Peta Bridle’s City of London Sketchbook
In Old Rotherhithe
Let me show you this 18th century graffiti on St Paul’s Cathedral…join my walk through the City of London. There are only two left this summer – Sunday 2nd July and Sunday 6th August at 2pm
Enjoy a storytelling ramble across the Square Mile, from the steps of St Paul’s through the narrow alleys and lanes to the foot of old London Bridge, in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City of London.
Click here to book your tickets
St Mary Rotherhithe Free School founded 1613
To be candid, there is not a lot left of old Rotherhithe – yet what remains is still powerfully evocative of the centuries of thriving maritime industry that once defined the identity of this place. Most visitors today arrive by train – as I did – through the Brunel tunnel built between 1825 and 1843, constructed when the growth of the docks brought thousands of tall ships to the Thames and the traffic made river crossing by water almost impossible.
Just fifty yards from Rotherhithe Station is a narrow door through which you can descend into the 1825 shaft via a makeshift staircase. You find yourself inside a huge round cavern, smoke-blackened as if the former lair of a fiery dragon. Incredibly, Marc Brunel built this cylinder of brick at ground level – fifty feet high and twenty-five feet in diameter – and waited while it sank into the damp earth, digging out the mud from the core as it descended, to create the shaft which then became the access point for excavating the tunnel beneath the river.
It was the world’s first underwater tunnel. At a moment of optimism in 1826, a banquet for a thousand investors was held at the bottom of the shaft and then, at a moment of cataclysm in 1828, the Thames surged up from beneath filling it with water – and Marc’s twenty-two-year-old son Isambard was fished out, unconscious, from the swirling torrent. Envisaging this diabolic calamity, I was happy to leave the subterranean depths of the Brunels’ fierce imaginative ambition – still murky with soot from the steam trains that once ran through – and return to the sunlight of the riverside.
Leaning out precariously upon the Thames’ bank is an ancient tavern known as The Spread Eagle until 1957, when it was rechristened The Mayflower – in reference to the Pilgrims who sailed from Rotherhithe to Southampton in 1620, on the first leg of their journey to New England. Facing it across the other side of Rotherhithe St towers John James’ St Mary’s Rotherhithe of 1716 where an attractive monument of 1625 to Captain Anthony Wood, retrieved from the previous church, sports a fine galleon in full sail that some would like to believe is The Mayflower itself – whose skipper, Captain Christopher Jones, is buried in the churchyard.
Also in the churchyard, sits the handsome tomb of Prince Lee Boo. A native of the Pacific Islands, he befriended Captain Wilson of Rotherhithe and his two sons who were shipwrecked upon the shores of Ulong in 1783. Abba Thule, the ruler of the Islands, was so delighted when the Europeans used their firearms to subdue his enemies and impressed with their joinery skills in constructing a new vessel, that he asked them to take his second son, Lee Boo, with them to London to become an Englishman.
Arriving in Portsmouth in July 1784, Lee Boo travelled with Captain Wilson to Rotherhithe where he lived as one of the family, until December when it was discovered he had smallpox – the disease which claimed the lives of more Londoners than any other at that time. At just twenty years old, Lee Boo was buried inside the Wilson family vault in Rotherhithe churchyard, but – before he died – he sent a plaintive message home to tell his father “that the Captain and Mother very kind.”
Across the churchyard from The Mayflower is Rotherhithe Free School, founded by two Peter Hills and Robert Bell in 1613 to educate the sons of seafarers. Still displaying a pair of weathered figures of schoolchildren, the attractive schoolhouse of 1797 was vacated in 1939 yet the school may still be found close by in Salter Rd. Thus, the pub, the church and the schoolhouse define the centre of the former village of Rotherhithe with a line of converted old warehouses extending upon the river frontage for a just couple of hundred yards in either direction beyond this enclave.
Take a short walk to the west and you will discover The Angel overlooking the ruins of King Edward III’s manor house but – if you are a hardy walker and choose to set out eastward along the river – you will need to exercise the full extent of your imagination to envisage the vast vanished complex of wharfs, quays and stores that once filled this entire peninsular.
At the entrance to the Rotherhithe road tunnel stands the Norwegian Church with its ship weather vane
Chimney of the Brunel Engine House seen from the garden on top of the tunnel’s access shaft
Isambard Kingdom Brunel presides upon his audacious work
Visitors gawp in the diabolic cavern of Brunel’s smoke-blackened shaft descending to the Thames tunnel
John James’ St Mary’s Rotherhithe of 1716
The tomb of Prince Lee Boo, a native of the Pelew or Pallas Islands ( the Republic of Belau), who died in Rotherhithe of smallpox in 1784 aged twenty
Graffiti upon the church tower
Monument in St Mary’s, retrieved from the earlier church
Charles Hay & Sons Ltd, Barge Builders since 1789
Peeking through the window into the costume store of Sands Films
Inside The Mayflower
A lone survivor of the warehouses that once lined the river bank
Looking east towards Rotherhithe from The Angel
The Angel
The ruins of King Edward III’s manor house
Bascule bridge
Nelson House
Metropolitan Asylum Board china from the Smallpox Hospital Ships once moored here
Looking across towards the Isle of Dogs from Surrey Docks Farm
Take a look at
Adam Dant’s Map of Stories from the History of Rotherhithe
and you may also like to read
On Father’s Day
Click here to book your tour tickets for next Saturday and beyond
My father
On Sunday – when I was a child – my father always took me out for the morning. It was a routine. He led me by the hand down by the river or we took the car. Either way, we always arrived at the same place.
He might have a bath before departure and sometimes I walked into the bathroom to surprise him there lying in six inches of soapy water. Meanwhile downstairs, my mother perched lightly in the worn velvet armchair to skim through the newspaper. Then there were elaborate discussions between them, prior to our leaving, to negotiate the exact time of our return, and I understood this was because the timing and preparation of a Sunday lunch was a complex affair. My father took me out of the house the better to allow my mother to concentrate single-mindedly upon this precise task and she was grateful for that opportunity, I believed. It was only much later that I grew to realise how much she detested cooking and housework.
A mile upstream there was a house on the other riverbank, the last but one in a terrace and the front door gave directly onto the street. This was our regular destination. When we crossed the river at this point by car, we took the large bridge entwined with gryphons cast in iron. On the times we walked, we crossed downstream at the suspension footbridge and my father’s strength was always great enough to make the entire structure swing.
Even after all this time, I can remember the name of the woman who lived in the narrow house by the river because my father would tell my mother quite openly that he was going to visit her, and her daughters. For she had many daughters, and all preoccupied with grooming themselves it seemed. I never managed to count them because every week the number of her daughters changed, or so it appeared. Each had some activity, whether it was washing her hair or manicuring her nails, that we would discover her engaged with upon our arrival. These women shared an attitude of languor, as if they were always weary, but perhaps that was just how they were on Sunday, the day of rest. It was an exclusively female environment and I never recalled any other male present when I went to visit with my father on those Sunday mornings.
To this day, the house remains, one of only three remnants of an entire terrace. Once on a visit, years later, I stood outside the house in the snow, and contemplated knocking on the door and asking if the woman still lived there. But I did not. Why should I? What would I ask? What could I say? The house looked blank, like a face. Even this is now a memory to me, that I recalled once again after another ten years had gone by and I glanced from a taxi window to notice the house, almost dispassionately, in passing.
There was a table with a bench seat in an alcove which extended around three sides, like on a ship, so that sometimes as I sat drinking my orange squash while the women smoked their cigarettes, I found myself surrounded and unable to get down even if I chose. At an almost horizontal angle, the morning sunlight illuminated this scene from a window in the rear of the alcove and gave the smoke visible curling forms in the air. After a little time, sitting there, I became aware that my father was absent, that he had gone upstairs with one of the women. I knew this because I heard their eager footsteps ascending.
On one particular day, I sat at the end of the bench with my back to the wall. The staircase was directly on the other side of this thin wall and the women at the table were involved in an especially absorbing conversation that morning, and I could hear my father’s laughter at the top of the stairs. Curiosity took me. I slipped off the bench, placed my feet on the floor and began to climb the dark little staircase.
I could see the lighted room at the top. The door was wide open and standing before the end of the bed was my father and one of the daughters. They were having a happy time, both laughing and leaning back with their hands on each other’s thighs. My father was lifting the woman’s skirt and she liked it. Yet my presence brought activities to a close in the bedroom that morning. It was a disappointment, something vanished from the room as I walked into it but I did not know what it was. That was the last time my father took me to that house, perhaps the last time he visited. Though I could not say what happened on those Sunday mornings when I chose to stay with my mother.
We ate wonderful Sunday lunches, so that whatever anxiety I had absorbed from my father, as we returned without speaking on that particular Sunday morning, was dispelled by anticipation as we entered the steamy kitchen with its windows clouded by condensation and its smells of cabbage and potatoes boiling.
My mother was absent from the scene, so I ran upstairs in a surge of delight – calling to find her – and there she was, standing at the head of the bed changing the sheets. I entered the bedroom smiling with my arms outstretched and, laughing, tried to lift the hem of her pleated skirt just as I saw my father do in that other house on the other side of the river. I do not recall if my father had followed or if he saw this scene, only that my mother smiled in a puzzled fashion, ran her hands down her legs to her knees, took my hand and led me downstairs to the kitchen where she checked the progress of the different elements of the lunch. For in spite of herself, she was a very good cook and the ritual of those beautiful meals proved the high point of our existence at that time.
The events of that Sunday morning long ago when my father took me to the narrow house with the dark staircase by the river only came back to me as a complete memory in adulthood, but in that instant I understood their meaning. I took a strange pleasure in this knowledge that had been newly granted. I understood what kind of house it was and who the “daughters” were. I was grateful that my father had taken me there, and from then on I could only continue to wonder at what else this clue might reveal of my parents’ lives, and of my own nature.
Me and my father
You may also like to read about
