In Old Globetown
I took advantage of rare hours of January sunlight to take a stroll over to Globetown. You walk east from Museum Gardens in Bethnal Green through Sugar Loaf Walk and immediately recognise you have entered a different neighbourhood, where an atmosphere of domestic quietude prevails in distinct contrast to the clamour you encountered at the junction of Bethnal Green Rd and Cambridge Heath Rd. Cats prowl the empty streets while the residents are either snug in their homes or enjoying a long afternoon in The Camel or The Florists’ Arms.
This former marshland bisected by Globe Lane – now Globe Rd – takes its name from a old tavern that once stood here. The area was built up in the early nineteenth century by exploitative developers, throwing up poor quality homes for weavers on low incomes. Before long, commentators were comparing the notorious Globetown slum with Saffron Hill and St Giles High St. Consequently, most of the good quality nineteenth century building that remains today was constructed as social housing to alleviate the legacy of this poor development.
In Globe Rd, the first structure that you come upon is the handsome red brick Merceron Houses constructed by East End Dwellings Company in 1901. It was built upon the garden of Joseph Merceron, the most reprehensible eighteenth century resident of Bethnal Green, whose notoriety had faded by the end of the nineteenth century. Across the road is a modest sequence of terraces of workers’ cottages in the Arts & Crafts style from 1906 and, directly to the south, towers the handsome Board School with Mendip House and Shepton House beyond. All these buildings were the work of East End Dwellings Company and together they form a sympathetic complex of streets on a human scale, with The Camel adorned with its attractive Art Nouveau tiles at the centre.
Walking south and turning east into the Roman Rd, I was dismayed to discover the beloved Victoria Fish Bar has closed forever. After a lifetime of service behind the fryer, the proprietors have finally retired. On Sunday, Globetown Market Sq was empty but on weekdays this is a popular destination with stalls of keenly-priced fresh produce and the East End’s best wet fish barrow run by Del Downey, third generation fishmonger in this location.
I walked north up Bonner St and turned west again at the former Bishop Bonner pub into Cyprus St, built in a distinctly aspiration style as ‘Wellington St’ in 1850, still remembered in the name of the former Duke of Wellington pub. This is an astonishing and handsome example of an unaltered mid-nineteenth century streetscape.
These distinguished nineteenth century survivals are surrounded by twentieth century housing of greater and lesser quality, evidencing the continuing struggle to overcome the grim legacy of exploitative development – both historical and recent – and give everyone in the East End a decent home.
The Camel on Sugar Loaf Walk dates from before 1861 when it was named as the Museum Beer Shop
Cottages built by East End Dwellings company in Globe Rd
In Gawber Rd
Board School of 1900 in Welwyn St
Open staircase at Mendip Dwellings built by East End Dwellings Company in 1900
The Florists’ Arms in Globe Rd dates from before 1871 and its name refers to the former local culture of competitive flower growing introduced by the Huguenots
The Victoria Fish Bar in Roman Rd has closed forever
The Bishop Bonner, Bonner St, dates from before 1863 and its name refers to Bishop Bonner whose palace formerly stood nearby on the site of the London Chest Hospital
In Cyprus St
Memorial to former residents of Cyprus St who died in war – Bethnal Green provided the highest number of volunteers of any London borough in the First World War
Drinking fountain in Museum Gardens
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I’d love you to do an article on Arnold Circus – the “roundabout mound” in the middle is all the old rubble from the destroyed slums. The surrounding buildings were supposedly new flats for the poor, which didn’t quite live up to expectations for accommodation for the poor as they were too expensive. The idea was great though and well meant.
The bandstand looks lovely and the trees are superb.
Thanks,
Nick.
An excellent artcle. I recently did a walk round there myself revisiting my old school buildings (Parmiters) in Approach Rd.
As a scoolboy in the 50s I was deeply impressed with the war memoral in Cyprus St.
Even as a child I found it poignant
Great photos, I haven’t wandered around Globetown for years, I’m glad these beautiful buildings are still there!
Cyprus St is very handsome terrace.
Sadly Del gave up his fish stall around 18mths ago as his refrigerstion costs rocketed with the energy price rises.
I enjoyed experiencing this walk through your eyes. I do it most days as I take my daughter to school. I still marvel at Cyprus Street (and now she does too), just as I did twenty-five years ago when I first moved to the East End. We lived in the estate further up Approach Road, along the canal in those days.
I have to comment if only to thank you for this post. It covers the childhood area of my dad – his father was the licensee of the Bishop Bonner in the 1920s. I never knew my grandad; he died in 1931, long before I was born.
The interior of the pub was recorded for posterity in 1975 in a TV programme presented by Melvyn Bragg about the Cockney dialect. Chas and Dave provided the entertainment! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=–iMo7mHEyA
I 2 weeks ago went to Bethnal green as I lived in approach road for nearly for over 30 years I miss Bethnal green so much was part of my life but has changed quite a lot the it’s just not the same
So so sad
Globe town is my old and present stomping ground.
I went to Globe Primary School as a kid and frequent the Florist Arms and The Camel pubs.
Still use York Hall baths as my local swimming pool. Watched the Buddhists move in 40 odd years ago and still delighted by their charity shop, bookshop and cafe Mandala.
The Market Square is a dead market these days but provides a social space for the locals with seating and planting of trees and shrubs. The Victoria Fish Bar is now a nail bar but l still remember the Wimpy in Roman Road from my school days, coming out for lunch from Morpeth Secondary School and get a Cola float with my school mates. My mum still lives off the Roman, the E2 end so l am there most days visiting her after work.
A beautiful and very moving write up, with some wonderful photographic images.