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Victory For East End Preservation Society!

April 17, 2014
by the gentle author

On the eve of the Easter Holiday, it fills me with great delight to announce that the old terrace in Whitechapel, comprising the last fragment of the nineteenth century Pavilion Theatre complex, has been saved from demolition – thanks to a campaign that began in these pages and was taken up by the members of the East End Preservation Society and the readers of Spitalfields Life.

In response to the numbers of objections received, Tower Hamlets Council have withdrawn their application for demolition in order to explore new options, which means that although the future for this terrace remains undecided it has been rescued from destruction – and below I outline its historic and cultural significance.

3-13 Vallance Rd

In January, when I was writing about the artist Morris Goldstein who lived at 13 Vallance Rd, I was reminded of the distinctive quality of this unusual Victorian terrace in Whitechapel. Despite all the changes since World War II, these old shops have survived and the exoticism of their architecture with its strange mixture of styles fascinates me – as it does many others for whom the terrace is also a landmark in this corner of the East End, where so few old buildings remain to tell the story of what once was here.

In fact, I realised these tatty shopfronts and ornate facades have always spoken to me, but it was only then that I discovered the nature of the story they were telling. The florid decoration was no whim upon the part of the architect but reflected their association and direct proximity to the adjoining Pavilion Theatre which opened here early in the nineteenth century, at first presenting nautical dramas to an audience from the docks and later becoming a Yiddish theatre to serve the Jewish population in Whitechapel.

Commanding the southern extremity of Vallance Rd, this terrace is almost the last fragment to remind us of the history of one of the East End’s most ancient thoroughfares, linking Bethnal Green and Whitechapel. Built in 1855, the vast and forbidding Whitechapel Union Workhouse once stood a few hundred yards north. In common with most of the nineteenth century buildings in this corner of what was known as Mile End New Town, it has long gone – swept away during the decades following the last war, leaving the streetscape fragmented today. Old Montague St, leading west to Commercial St and formerly the heart of the Jewish commerce in the East End, was entirely demolished.

Even Whitechapel Rd, which retains good sweeps of historic buildings – many of which are now under restoration as part of a Heritage Lottery Fund project – suffered major post-war casualties, including a fine eighteenth century terrace west of the London Hospital that was demolished in the seventies. Yet there was one building of great importance of which the loss went seemingly unnoticed -The Pavilion Theatre, a favourite resort for East Enders for nearly one hundred and fifty years before it was demolished in 1961.

The New Royal Pavilion Theatre opened in 1827 at the corner of Whitechapel Rd and Baker’s Row (now Vallance Rd) with a production of The Genii of the Thames, initiating its famous nautical-themed productions, pitched at the the maritime community. In 1856, the theatre burnt down and its replacement opened in 1858, boasting a capacity of three-thousand-seven-hundred, which was a thousand more than Covent Garden and included the largest pit in London theatre, where two thousand people could be comfortably accommodated.

‘The Great National Theatre of the Metropolis’ – as it was announced – boasted a wide repertoire including Shakespeare, opera (it became the East London Opera House in 1860) and, of course, pantomime. It gained a reputation for the unpretentious nature of its patrons, with one critic remarking “there is a no foolish pride amongst Pavilion audiences, or, as far as we could see, any of those stupid social distinctions which divide the sympathies of other auditoriums.”

In 1874, the Pavilion was reconstructed to the designs of Jethro T. Robinson, a notable theatre architect who designed two other East End theatres. both of which are now lost – the Grecian Theatre in Shoreditch and the Albion in Poplar, that was oriental in style. It was this rebuilding of the Pavilion which included the construction of a new terrace on Baker’s Row with interwoven Moorish arches evoking the Alhambra. The theatrical design of these buildings, with decorated parapets, panels and window surrounds, and the integration of side entrances to the theatre suggest the authorship or influence of J. T. Robinson himself.

In its later years, the Pavilion became one of the leading theatres in London, offering Yiddish drama, but as tastes changed and the Jewish people began to leave, the audience declined until it closed for good in 1934. In ‘East End Entertainment’ (1954) A. E. Wilson recalls a final visit to the old theatre before it closed.

“Once during the Yiddish period I visited the theatre. What I saw was all shabbiness, gloom and decay. The half-empty theatre was cold and dreary. The gold had faded and the velvet had moulted. Dust and grime were everywhere. And behind the scenes it was desolation indeed. The dirty stage seemed as vast as the desert and as lonely. I realised that there was no future for the Pavilion, that nothing could restore its fortunes, that its day was over.”

The decline of the Pavilion had been slow and painful. After the theatre closed in the thirties, it was simply left to decay after plans to transform it into a ‘super cinema’ failed to materialise. Bomb damage in the war and a fire meant that when a team from the London County Council’s Historic Buildings Division went to record the building in 1961, they found only a shell of monumental grandeur. After the theatre was finally demolished in 1961, the northern end of the terrace was also demolished leaving just number 13 (the former Weavers Arms Pub) and the battered row that has survived to this day.

Until last week, when Tower Hamlet Council withdrew their application for demolition after the huge number of objections from members of the East End Preservation Society and readers of Spitalfields Life, this last fragment of the Pavilion Theatre complex – numbers 3-11 Vallance Rd was under threat of imminent demolition. Responding positively to public opinion, the Council is now considering a more sympathetic proposal incorporating this much-loved terrace. The new proposal has been rendered by local conservation practice Jonathan Freegard Architects, commissioned by the Spitalfields Trust, and it retains the buildings as part of a mixed-use scheme delivering housing, retail and office space.

In the spirit of high theatrical farce, the Council’s consultant wrote of these buildings in Vallance Rd in the 2013 Heritage Report, accompanying the former application for demolition, that  ‘… [they] do not contribute to the character or appearance of the Conservation Area,’ directly contradicting the Council’s earlier Conservation Area Appraisal of the area in 2009 which outlined the following priority for action – “Encourage sympathetic redevelopment of gap sites west of Vallance Rd and secure restoration of 3-11 Vallance Rd.”

Thus it gives me great pleasure to report to you that in the true classical tradition of comedy, justice and sanity have prevailed and this particular drama is one that promises a happy ending.

5 & 7 Vallance Rd, showing decorative window surrounds and parapet (Alex Pink)

9 & 11 Vallance Rd. With its decorative central panel, number 9 leads through to a courtyard where the theatre’s carpentry workshop once stood (Alex Pink)

3 Vallance Rd with original shopfront (Alex Pink)

Looking north over Vallance Rd (left) and Hemming St (right), 1957 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Whitechapel Union Workhouse in Vallance Rd, at junction with Fulbourne St, 1913 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Whitechapel Union Workhouse, Vallance Rd 1913 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Corner of Vallance Rd and Hereford St, 1965 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Bricklayers Arms, Vallance Rd and Sale St, 1938 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Old Montague St and Black Lion Yard, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Old Montague St and Kings Arms Court, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Old Montague St looking east with Pauline House under construction, 1962 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

The first Royal Pavilion Theatre in Whitechapel, 1856  (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1867, nautical drama was a speciality at the Pavilion  (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1854 (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1835 – note reference to gallery entrance in Baker’s Row (Vallance Rd)  (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1856 (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1833 (East London Theatre Archive)

Playbill 1851 (East London Theatre Archive)

The Great National Theatre of the Metropolis’ – the rebuilt Pavilion, 1858

Plan of the Pavilion in eighteen-seventies showing how the houses in Baker’s Row (Vallance Rd) are integrated into the theatre

The Pavilion as a Yiddish theatre in the thirties

Pavilion Theatre facade on Whitechapel Rd, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Auditorium of Pavilion Theatre, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Pit and stage at Pavilion Theatre, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Fly tower of Pavilion Theatre, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Back wall of the Pavilion Theatre, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

17-29 Vallance Rd, showing the large scene doors entrance and gallery entrance beyond, all integrated into the terrace, 1961 (City of London, London Metropolitan Archives)

Sketch of the elevation of the Oriental Theatre, Poplar High St, by Jethro T. Robinson, 1873 – note usage of the arch-within-an-arch motif as seen in the Vallance Rd terrace

First sketch by Tim Whittaker, Director of the Spitalfields Trust, proposing courtyard housing behind the terrace which reflects the local vernacular of Whitechapel

Proposal by  Jonathan Freegard Architects for restoration of the terrace with a new yard at rear

South-westerly view of  proposal by Jonathan Freegard Architects

Rear view of proposal by Jonathan Freegard Architects

New photographs of Vallance Rd Terrace © Alex Pink

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28 Responses leave one →
  1. jeannette permalink
    April 17, 2014

    thank you. thrilled.

  2. Molasses permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Delighted that history will be preserved for generations to come.

    Amazed that preservation won over real estate lobbyist!

    The tenacity of the campaigners are to be admired and, hopefully, replicable.

  3. Lucinda permalink
    April 17, 2014

    What fantastic news to wake up to! My husband’s great grandmother lived for many happy years in Vallance Road with her family. Congratulations and huge thanks to everyone who campaigned so successfully.

  4. April 17, 2014


  5. April 17, 2014

    Great news – well done for getting this started!

  6. April 17, 2014

    Well done everyone who contributed to the positive outcome, that’s a great story to hear.

    How lovely we keep this beautiful and distinctive patch of architecture for our city.

  7. April 17, 2014

    Good news! Well done!

  8. Ken permalink
    April 17, 2014

    This is a landmark decision and a great victory for the Society. So much of the fabric of London has been needlessly destroyed. The proposals for reconstructing the terrace look very practical and there is every reason to believe they can be implemented. Well done!

  9. Bob Gladding permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Fabulous news – that’s made my Easter. This corner of old Whitechapel means a lot to my Family. Thanks Gentle Author for your efforts.

  10. April 17, 2014

    Congratulation and well done! — One can see what an effect community may have!

    I’m enjoying the typographic art of the ancient playbills. Very fine!

    Love & Peace

  11. April 17, 2014

    wonderful news !

  12. April 17, 2014

    Lovely to see the vintage photos of the area.

  13. alison homewood permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Hoorah hoorah hoorah, three cheers and thanks for everyone who signed the petition, wrote letters and especially to the Gentle Author and the East End Preservation Society to highlighting and supporting it. If everything proceeds as it should now, we will have saved another beautiful and important fragment of old London. Now – please let Smithfield Market have the same reprieve.

  14. Deborah Fyrth permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Congratulations, delighted to see that your hard work has paid off! One in the eye for the developers.

  15. Eliza permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Great news!

  16. Jasmin permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Well done !

  17. April 17, 2014

    This is great news – well done to everyone involved! Sometimes, things do get better….

  18. Barbara permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Well done everyone ! We all obviously need to remain vigilant otherwise the history of this special place will be swept away.

  19. April 17, 2014

    I was born in Bethnal Green and lived at 5 Cambridge Heath Road for many years – this is close to Vallance Road. I have been horrified how Tower Hamlets have allowed Whitechapel and Mile End Road to rot and decay. There are many monuments and buildings of interest on these roads, including the Alms House and Wickhams that are decaying and will soon fall down. I am very very happy to see that this stretch on Vallance Road will survive. A truly great success.

  20. David Whittaker permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Excellent news. This should just be the start. There are many more perhaps less architecturally and historically important yet still aesthetically pleasing buildings of similar human scale that should also be saved for the future.

  21. DX Manners permalink
    April 17, 2014

    Well done!

  22. April 17, 2014

    Wonderful news and a real gem!

  23. Vicky permalink
    April 17, 2014

    I’m so happy about this and agree with David, there’s so much here to fight for! I walked past this terrace today and wanted to put out bunting and hold a street party.

  24. April 17, 2014

    Excellent news, well done to all involved

  25. ROBERT GREEN permalink
    April 17, 2014

    I have never been more delighted to admit that I have been proved WRONG, when I first heard of the news that the East End Preservation Society was to be set up my natural cynicism led me to pour scorn on the idea assuming that no pressure group would ever be able to stem the tide of property developer’s from trampling over anyone who dared to stand in the way of their relentless pursuit of profit, AT WHATEVER COST TO THE COMMUNITY, I am now pleased to say how wrong I was, but still with natural caution, I can only hope that this will prove to be an outright victory and not just a temporary reprieve, fantastic photo’s of the Pavilion, I offer my sincere thank’s and respect to all those actively involved in the society.

  26. William Sovie permalink
    April 18, 2014


  27. Mike W permalink
    April 18, 2014

    I’m so pleased the campaign has been successful. My family originated from Bethnal Green and I took a walk down Vallance Rd recently to look at the terrace, for what I assumed would be the last time. Let’s hope the Council now seem the wisdom in some thoughtful and fitting refurbishment!

  28. john garwood permalink
    April 18, 2014

    Well done!!! what a victory! lets hope it all comes good!
    John Garwood

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