At The Grapes in Limehouse
Of a Summer’s evening it has become my habit to take an occasional leisurely stroll from Spitalfields down to Limehouse, to enjoy a few drinks at The Grapes. Out of all the historic riverside pubs, this tiny place dating from 1585, has best retained its idiosyncratic personality and modest charm, still resembling The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters in “Our Mutual Friend,” for which it is believed Charles Dickens took The Grapes as his model in 1865.
“In its whole construction it had not a straight floor and hardly a straight line, but it had outlasted and clearly would yet outlast, many a better trimmed building, many a sprucer public house. Externally, it was a narrow lop-sided wooden jumble of corpulent windows heaped one upon the other as you might heap as many toppling oranges, with a crazy wooden verandah impending over the water, but seemed to have got into the condition of a faint-hearted diver who has paused so long on the brink that he will never go in at all…”
Coming down Narrow St, parallel to the Thames, you arrive at a handsome eighteenth century terrace and walk straight off the pavement into the bar of The Grapes leaving the sunshine behind, to discover that the building is just one room wide – no more than fifteen feet across. In the cool gloom you find yourself in a bare-boarded bar room full of attractively mismatched furniture and look beyond to the source of glimmering light, which is the river. Stepping through into the cosy back bar, no larger than a small parlour, you realise this is the entire extent of the ground floor. With an appealing surfeit of old brown matchboarding and lined with picture frames containing a whole archive of prints, photographs and paintings that tell the story of this venerable pub and outline its connection to the work of Dickens, this is one of the most charismatic spaces I know.
Through the double doors, you find yourself upon the verandah and the full expanse of the water is quite overwhelming to behold at this bend in the river where it twists towards Greenwich, shimmering in the distance. In fact, this is the frontage of the pub because, until recently, most customers would have come directly from the river. The photograph above, dating from 1918, advertises “You may telephone from here” to those passing on the water, while James Mc Neill Whistler’s lithograph of 1859 shows a gangplank laid across from the balcony onto a barge. If you are searching for the riverside atmosphere that once existed here, come one misty Autumn evening, enjoy a drink while watching the lights of passing boats gleaming through the raindrops upon the panes, and relish your proximity to the grim murky depths from the safety and warmth of the parlour.
Dickens described the landlady of The Six Jolly Fellowship Porter thus, “Miss Potterson, sole proprietor and manager… reigned supreme on her throne, the bar, and a man must have drunk himself mad drunk indeed if he thought he could contest the point with her. Being known on her own authority as Miss Abbey Potterson.” It was my pleasure to ascend the narrow staircase to the dining room overlooking the river where Dickens once sat. Here I enjoyed the honour of taking afternoon tea with the current sole proprietor and manager, the gracious Miss Barbara Haigh, who like her fictional predecessor also reigns supreme. As we sipped our tea, sitting close by the curved windows overlooking the water, it was as if we were in the stateroom of a great ship and the passing vessels, which interrupted our conversation – including a magnificent brown sailed Thames Sailing Barge – were there for our sole amusement, displaying themselves simply to enjoy the privilege of Barbara’s inspection.
The redoubtable Barbara, who has been landlady here for the past sixteen years, is a proud ex-Bunny Girl from The London Playboy Club in Park Lane, as well as a keen enthusiast for the works of Dickens and a passionate custodian of the history of The Grapes too. With so many exciting avenues to pursue, we barely knew where to commence our conversation. Speaking fondly of her twelve years at the Playboy Club, working her way up to become top bunny (appointed room director at the club), it was apparent that Barbara still retains the physical confidence and poise from these years. I was stunned when Barbara produced images of herself cavorting with David Frost, describing the camaraderie between the bunny girls, and recalling when the club shut forever in 1982.“We’d all become close friends, and we still have our reunions here each September, but when the club closed, I thought, ‘I’ll offer myself to a brewery and ask, ‘What do you want to do with me?”” Barbara’s Playboy years certainly taught her how to couch a proposition.
Working at first in partnership, Barbara quickly realised she could run a pub better by herself and, after a spell at The Brown Bear in Leman St, she was offered The Grapes although she was not at all enthusiastic at first. “I came down here to take a look at the end of February. It was freezing cold and windy. Quite desolate. I thought, ‘I’m not coming here to the back of beyond.’ All I heard was the creak of the sign blowing in the wind. But I came back for dinner and I fell in love with the place. When I first came here I used to sit in the bar after it was closed. Now I feel I was destined to be here.” explained Barbara, dismissing her former scepticism and casting her grey eyes with a tender smile of proprietary satisfaction around the narrow dining room, where she has created a reputation for serving fish delivered fresh daily from nearby Billingsgate Market.
“I haven’t changed it at all,” continued Barbara, her eyes glittering with defiance and affection, “but not a week went by during the first twelve years without a stand up row, to preserve it as it is and stop the brewery’s unwanted interference. I altered nothing but the atmosphere, I have warmed it up by loving the place. I’ve had three lots of staff in the last sixteen years, terrific teams that ran like clockwork. Then in 2006 I was offered the choice of redundancy or buying the lease, so now it is mine, until the three hundred years’ lease expires in 2042, then we’ll see what happens, because after all this time no-one knows who owns the freehold.”
Over these years, Barbara has lived in the tiny flat with river views perched precariously up on the top, and connected to the pub by a fine seventeen-twenties staircase. Her precious spare time has been spent researching the history and collecting the pictures that line the walls, becoming fascinated with Emily Judge, the model for Abbey Potterson, the landlady in “Our Mutual Friend”. With some remarkable detective work, Barbara has uncovered a portrait of Emily in an oil painting by the Victorian seascape artist Charles Napier Hemy, entitled”Limehouse Barge Builders,” which shows her bringing a basket of vittles to the group of men working on the shore, and wearing a stunning red cape. It cannot be an accident that it is the same hue as the leather jacket Barbara wears in the photograph below. We shall all be waiting to see if the mysterious freeholder appears in 2042, but in the meantime I will continue popping down to the The Grapes in the hope of stumbling upon a Bunny Girls’ reunion.
The grapes as portrayed by James McNeill Whistler in 1859.
“An old tavern on the riverside at Limehouse. There are still many delightful riverside scenes hidden away amongst much that is sordid and unsightly. Few but local inhabitants ever see them.” (This is the original caption from a magazine of a century ago)
A enigmatic face gazes down from the upper window upon landlady Charlotte (Lottie) Higgins in 1918.
This oil painting “Saturday Night at the Grapes” by Alice West in 1949, as exhibited at the Royal Academy, still hangs in the bar room today.
Looking through towards the Thames.
Looking back towards Narrow Street.
In the first floor dining room where Dickens sat.
Barbara in her heyday as a bunnygirl at the Playboy Club
Barbara making a literary connection with with Charles Dickens’ great grandson Cedric.
Barbara Haigh
Portrait copyright © Alice Hawkins
What a gem!
The first photo of this post made me immediately think of Dickens. And then I read on that there was a very good reason for that connection. And read on to see that other connection to the wonderful etchings of Whistler. And then read on to see an answer to my emerging question about what The Grapes would be like in winter.
The landlady is amazing. Many congratulations to her on keeping this fantastic place alive. Should I even be fortunate enough to again visit London, I will surely try to visit The Grapes.
Your posts go from strength to strength. Please do continue!
What an amazing looking place. Would love to see it in reality.
There is also something satisfyingly timeless about the two dogs in the first photo – the alpha dog sitting importantly at the top of the steps, keeping an eye on the riverside, backed up by the deputy dog on the seat behind him.
For several years in the early 2000s when I was a student nearby, I worked as a barman at the Grapes. It was lovely to read your article and even more lovely to hear that Barbara is still at the helm. She was (and I imagine still is) the most wonderful, if slightly formidable boss, and to us young staff experiencing London for the first time Barbara really fulfilled the role of surrogate mother. Back in the days before all-day opening she would cook Sunday lunch for her staff and lucky invited guests. These lunches were the stuff of legend – very long and very boozy.
If there were more women like Barbara running more pubs like the Grapes, the world would be a much better place!
You have reminded me what a magical place this higgledy-piggledy old boozer is. I must visit soon.
What a fantastic story. Barbara is a national treasure for keeping this piece of our heritage intact.
I too will visit soon for a pint!
Lovely. I must have walked past the Grapes hundreds of times, it’s great to know so much about it. Does Barbara do the flowers? They’re always impressive. And how incredibly fascinating about the 300-yr lease! No wonder so many leasehold premises in London are falling apart.
hi barbara, it is wonderful to see your face again and all that you have achieved. katrina and i miss and remenice. i hope one day we can have a beer together again. i hope you remember us. your old staff members, ben and katrina
Hi there
My great Aunt used to be landlady of a pub called ‘The Bunch of Grapes’ back in the 1960’s. Her name was Mrs Mary Failes.
I know there are several pubs with this name in London but my Father always said her pub was in Limehouse, however, he could have been wrong
If anyone can shed some light, I’d really appreciate it.
Maybe Barbara the current Landlady has some info
Nicky
I recall some of the fights we had together at muswell hill, with various area managers and humanly resourseful people, I am glad it was worth it. Letter in the post Love Raoul and Jane
My comment is for Barbara Haigh.
I,m writing this on behalf of my sister who is absolutely comp illiterate.
My sister (Sandra Dunn) was a bunny in 1970 and stayed a couple of years,
she worked in the VIP lounge. and treasures her memories there.
She has lost all contact with te girls she worked with.
and was wondering if you remembered her.
Chris…
The best old photos I’ve seen of the ‘real’ Limehouse and informative and evocative story. I’ve just arrived to this virtual site after tracing my Clark family roots to 1700’s in Limehouse Causeway and Narrow St.
William Clark was an Anchor Smith and his son a Mariner. Look forward to docking into The Grapes’ (after the Olympics!).
all the best from sunny Queensland
I was there on Saturday and sat first on the balcony and then in the bay window seat. What a fantastic place. Do not ever let it change.
What a great blog/website! I found it during a search for “Dirty Dick’s” and just kept following links! Next time I find myself in London I will definitely refer to it again and again! Thanks.
i wonder if you could help me locate or learn something of Barbara,a Canadian Bunny,in 1967 i think,after the Bunny Club she worked at the Electric Cinema in Portobello rd.she returned to Canada ithink.she was pregnant then.thank you so much,hope to hear from you.regards ,Robin
Does Barbara still run the grapes and still hold bunny girls reunions. If she has left does she still hold reunions elsewhere? What are new contact details, thanks John
Sadly, The Grapes of this article is now history. It’s been gentrified. *tears roll*
And there it is… The Grapes. A big part of my parent’s lives from 1960,until they were re-housed over to Crisp St market above another pub.in 1978. Rene & Jack Phillips ran the Grapes through the 60s & 70s until it was taken over by a younger couple who i knew as Frank & Jennifer,if i remember rightly.
My mum was the cleaner,& dad helped out with cellars,bringing the fish from Billingsgate,potman,chauffer,& anything else that needed doing,including decorating & bits of carpentry around the pub.
Love the photos…love the article…than you Gentle Author.
I started ‘Our Mutual Friend’ after reading this article and was pleased to find The Six Jolly Fellowship Porters referenced right away at the beginning of the book
On my list to visit soon – born just round the corner myself in Stepney, in researching my family history of Clarks I discover my Great grandfather’s 1st cousin Mary Nugent married Bill Higgins, sister of Lottie Higgins in the photo above. Not sure if Bill was ever landlord but an interesting connection! this was my Clark family local for generations living in Faraday House, Chivers Court, Northey Street from 1880’s to 1940’s. My dad used to tell me tales of The Grapes – see you soon.
Found this website while researching for a novel. Wonderful photos and a fascinating piece on the Grapes (which I shall adapt for my purposes, as I needed a setting for a pub scene). You’ve obviously put a lot of hard work and love into the site, and I thank you for sharing it with us.
I believe Lottie Higgins was the mother of my uncle ( by marriage ) Henry Higgins who married Edith Wright and moved to Benfleet Essex. The facial resemblance to his daughter Patricia Higgins is obvious. I knew Lottie Higgins as Mrs Eskew ( possibly a second marriage ) a formidable old lady who always wore a fox fur round her shoulders. My uncle told that when she was landlady she slept with a pistol under her pillow !
My Dad ( Keith Higgins ) is Lottie’s Grandson . He is the son of Gwendoline Higgins and Sandy Leonard Higgins . The family still holds lots of photos of the Pub and the people that lived there .
Sam Saunders ( nee Clark ) and Alan Baptist , it would be nice to swap stories ?
Hi Ashley we must be cousins.
My mother Sandra (Higgins) Pauling was also granddaughter to charlotte. My grandfather Victor Higgins was charlottes son. Both me and my mother still live in poplar.
Hello my grandmother Charlotte Willmott was Victors sister as was my great aunt Ivy
I was so delighted to find this photo of my great grandmother on this website.Charlotte Higgins married John Willmott and had four children Charlotte,John, Ivy and Francis. IVY was my mother, I must be related to at least 3 people on this site, would love to find out more.
Knew Barbara from both the Brown Bear and the Grapes (I used to stocktake both pubs). Max the alsatian always kept a watchful eye over his mistress ! The Lord of the Scarves now owns the Grapes from the last I heard, so probably full of luvvies. I hope Barbara is keeping well, and send my regards.
I remember Don Holden well, he was one of the decent men in stocktaking for Taylor Walker/Allied Domecq. Always fair and polite. I recall his parting words after finding a discrepancy in the snacks stock control. He told me to tell Max (my adored and faithful Alsatian) to pay for his own crisps…!! Also remember Raoul & Jane de Vaux, last heard of living in Seville – I think…!
Max lived to the great age of thirteen-and-a-half and I had him put to sleep, peacefully, in front of the fire in the river end of the bar, in the afternoon of Sunday the 19th November, 1995 after we had closed. Beautiful sunset with the river lapping gently against the balcony. Freddie and Adrian, my two original barmen at that time were so distraught, I had to close the pub that evening due to a “family bereavement”… One of my dearest customers, artist and sculptor Nicola Toms, presented me with a treasured gift of a bronze sculpture “Max of The Grapes” – he really was such a handsome boy..
I also remember with great fondness the members of staff mentioned above. The great Henry Mackley, always in a good mood, charming and polite. I hope he went on to be a very successful man – I think he may have been studying law..?? The beautiful Katrina and Ben Knight, Australian couple travelling Europe etc. Katrina studying to be an architect and Ben an aspiring DJ – bless him… I imagine they are back in Australia now.
I was always very lucky with staff – apart from the occasional thief and one or two misogynists who didn’t like taking orders from a woman – I always had great brigades of staff in the kitchen and bar. Here I must mention the indomitable, the late Patricia Ganesh aka Mrs. Pat who was Sous Chef and chef extraordinaire Karim Azzouzi, the original catering team. My dearest Mrs.Pat lost her fight with cancer in 2008.
I am now very happily retired and often wonder how I ever had time to work – I regularly put in 120 hours per week working in the licensed trade..! I still hold Playboy Bunny Reunions (covid permitting) with the kind generosity of Jimmy and Simon Thomas, owners of The Hippodrome Casino in Leicester Square.
The Grapes has changed hands and changed completely for the latest chapter in its existence. The Stamp of Gandalf has been firmly placed by my cherished friend Sir Ian McKellen as he guides the “old boozer” through the beginning of the 21st Century. Who knows what the future will hold when the current lease runs out. A lease for 300 years granted in 1742 and due to expire in twenty years… nobody knows who OWNS the freehold. I hope I’m still around to see who may “rise from the ashes”… Barbara Haigh
Wonderful to get an update from Barbara!
All the time I was reading your article GA, I was wondering if this was The Grapes used frequently in Patrick O’Brian’s Master and Commander ‘Aubrey & Maturin’ novels. So off I popped to do a bit of research. Sadly, it wasn’t as O’Brian’s The Grapes was on The Strand and no longer exists…
…however, The Grapes, Limehouse, does indeed get a mention!
I’m always finding something to keep me interested in your vocational blogs – I love it! ❤️⚓️
My mother Patricia Higgins. Lottie’s grand-daughter currently lives in Eastbourne. She moved from Benfleet, Essex about five years ago. She married a man from Scotland, John Archer. Her children John and Aileen Archer currently live between Eastbourne and Brighton