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Along The Regent’s Canal From Shoreditch To Paddington

January 28, 2025
by the gentle author

The towpath fiddler in Camden

I continued my ramble along the towpath of the Regent’s Canal as far as Paddington Basin in the frost, picking up my journey where I cast off in Shoreditch. Swathed in multiple layers of clothing against the cold, I was alarmed to encounter rough sleepers under bridges when I set out but, as the temperature rose, I was astonished to discover a zealous sunbather in Camden. My most inspiring meeting of the day was with fiddler Lee Westbrook who, like me, had also been encouraged to venture out by the sunlight. His music echoed hauntingly under the multiple bridges at Gloucester Ave. And by the time I reached Paddington, it was warm enough to unbutton my coat before taking the Metropolitan Line back again to Liverpool St.

Approaching Bridport Place Bridge

De Beauvoir Rd Bridge

Approaching City Rd Lock

Lock keeper’s cottage at City Rd Lock

At City Rd Lock

Danbury St Bridge

Approaching the Islington Tunnel

Entrance to the Islington Tunnel

Lock Keeper’s Cottage at St Pancras Lock

Bridge at Royal College St

Canalside Terrace in Camden

At Camden Lock

At Camden Lock

Lee Westbrook

Mansions by Regent’s Park

Bridge into Regent’s Park

Mansion in Regent’s Park

Onwards towards Paddington

In Lisson Grove

In Maida Vale

Little Venice

Paddington Basin

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Along the Regent’s Canal

Along The Regent’s Canal

January 27, 2025
by the gentle author

Taking advantage of a rare day of January sunshine, I enjoyed a ramble along the towpath with my camera, tracing its arc which bounds the northern extent of the East End. At first there was just me, some moorhens, a lonely swan, and a cormorant, but as the morning wore on cyclists and joggers appeared. Starting at Limehouse Basin, I walked west along the canal until I reached the Kingsland Rd. By then clouds had gathered and my hands had turned blue, so I returned home to Spitalfields hoping for another bright day soon when I can resume my journey onward to Paddington Basin.

At Limehouse Basin

Commercial Rd Bridge

Johnson’s Lock

Lock keeper’s cottage at Johnson’s Lock

Great Eastern Railway bridge

Great Eastern Railway bridge

Salmon Lane Lock

Barge dweller mooring his craft

Solebay St Bridge

Mile End Rd bridge

Cyclist at Mile End Rd bridge

Looking through Mile End Rd bridge

Mile End Lock keeper’s cottage

Looking back towards the towers of Canary Wharf

At the junction with Hertford Union Canal

Old Ford Lock

Victoria Park Bridge

Victoria Park Bridge

Barge dwelling cat

At Kingsland Rd Bridge

Looking west from Kingsland Rd Bridge

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Canal Dogs

Frank Derrett’s West End

January 26, 2025
by the gentle author

Cranbourne St

Fancy a stroll around the West End with Frank Derrett in the seventies?

This invitation is possible thanks to the foresight of Paul Loften who rescued these photographs from destruction in the last century. Recently, Paul contacted me to ask if I was interested and I suggested he donate them to the archive at the Bishopsgate Institute, which is how I am able to show them today.

‘They were given to me over twenty-five years ago when I called at an apartment block in Camden,’ Paul explained. ‘A woman opened the door and, when said I was from Camden Libraries, she told me a solicitor was dealing with effects of a resident who had died and was about to throw these boxes of slides into a skip, and did I want them? I kept them in my loft, occasionally enjoying a look, but actually I had forgotten about them until we had a clear out upstairs.’

Charing Cross Rd

Bear St

Coventry St

Regent St

Earlham St

Long Acre

Dover St

Carnaby St

Carnaby St

Charing Cross Rd

Cranbourne St

Dover St

Perkins Rents

Great Windmill St

Brook St

Conduit St

Frith St

Drury Lane

Dean St

Garrick St

Great Windmill St

Archer St

Images courtesy Bishopsgate Institute

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Jeffrey Johnson’s Favourite Spots

Lew Tassell’s Day Trip

January 25, 2025
by the gentle author

Lew Tassell sent me these pictures that he took on a trip to London at fifteen years old in 1966

Old London Bridge

‘These pictures were taken in March 1966 with my first proper camera, albeit only a Zeiss Ikon Ikonette with a 35mm fixed lens viewfinder that cost me £7 secondhand. I loved that camera and wish I still had it, it had no metering or any features so it taught me a lot.

Film and developing were very expensive, so I had to be frugal with my picture-taking and then wait for them to be developed to see if I had judged the exposure correctly.

I was fifteen years old, living with my parents in South London and just about to leave school. I used to catch a train from Elmers End to Charing Cross – returning via London Bridge – and explore, usually taking in a visit to the National Gallery.’

‘My school friend, Paul, on one of Landseer’s Lions in Trafalgar Sq, he was instantly told to ‘get orf’ by a policeman’

‘I always found Piccadilly Circus magical and ever-changing. There was not much neon during the sixties and the buildings were generally dirty and grey, but the West End was a place with lively streets, especially this spot with the cinemas and theatres.’


The classic Coca-Cola sign

‘Carnaby St was a tremendously exciting place for a teenager to wander about. I didn’t have the money to buy anything but just to be there was enough’

John Stephen’s celebrated menswear shop in Carnaby St, clothes worn by The Who, The Kinks, The Rolling Stones and The Small Faces


‘Spot the Rolls Royce coming round the corner’

‘Spot the sandwich man for ‘Champagne Temps”

Looking across Carnaby St to Foubert’s Place

Lord Kitchener’s Valet sold military uniform as fashion, customers included Jimi Hendrix, John Lennon and Mick Jagger

Crowded pavements in Carnaby St

Old Cannon St Railway Station from Southwark Bridge


Eastcheap corner of Pudding Lane

Guy’s Hospital under construction by London Bridge Station

Tower of London in the mist

Old men sitting by the Tower

Cannons on the waterfront at the Tower

A foggy, soot-stained Tower Bridge

‘In the Pool Of London – one of my earliest memories is standing in this spot with my father, watching the ships being unloaded in the centre of the City’


‘Police launch on the Thames – four years later I joined the City of London Police’

Photographs copyright © Lew Tassell

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On Night Patrol With Lew Tassell

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A Walk Around The Docks With Lew Tassell

Lew Tassell at Charles & Diana’s Wedding

Lew Tassell at the Queen’s Silver Jubilee

So Long, Terry’s Tropicals

January 24, 2025
by the gentle author

After three generations and more than sixty years of service to the East End’s ichthyophiles and aquarists, Terry’s Tropicals closes forever this Sunday

What better refuge from the hurly-burly of the Bethnal Green Rd, than to step into the sub-aquatic glow of Wholesale Tropicals (universally known as Terry’s Tropicals) and lose yourself in contemplation amongst the banks of illuminated fish tanks, as if you were taking a stroll upon the bed of a vast river in an exotic sunlit land? Here three generations of the Jones family work ceaselessly – Christmas not excepted – to maintain the population of up to ten thousand tropical freshwater fish that are their charge and their passion. Like those ethereal creatures which inhabit the depths, the family share a pallor evident of their lives tending fish in the gloom – where today, Jordan Jones, the youngest member pursues the never-ending feeding round that was begun by his grandfather Terry in 1961.

Once you have enjoyed a turn around the magnificent aquatic display, it is time to meet the two Terrys, the father and son that run the place, holding court at the front of the shop with Archie, who comes in each day (and has his own chair next to the tanks of aquarium plants), on all subjects tropical fish related. “We are known as the cheeky chappies of the fishkeeping world because of the banter that goes on,” bragged Terry the younger, revealing, “I’ve been here twenty-five years with the old bugger, since the day I left school at sixteen,” and proud to inform me that they used to have eighty tanks in the back garden when he was a child and won multiple awards for breeding South American catfish. “We specialised in getting all the different types,” he informed me enigmatically, “We searched high and low.” Adding helpfully, “We still sell the red-tailed catfish – the king of the Amazon – capable of growing to a metre long.”

You can learn a lot just by hanging on the words of these wily specialists gathered at the counter, like always wear a pair of rubber gloves when changing the water for your electric eel, like many of the fish here are extinct in the wild due to pollution, like Africans are the most aggressive of freshwater fish and require caves at the rear of their tanks to escape when fights break out, like how you must always put piranhas together in pairs of either sex to avoid a blood bath, and how the African Tiger fish is the most lethal, on account of its articulated jaw lined with sharp teeth and propensity to grow to five feet long. I was shown a six-inch specimen currently available for seventy-five pounds – it may look as benign as a stickleback, but its precisely serrated fangs are framed by an expression of primeval antagonism.

“Fishkeeping is more keeping the water than keeping the fish,” confided Terry the younger later, turning philosophical in the back office as he revealed a trick of the trade, “If you can keep the water just right, clean and the correct temperature and pH, they more or less keep themselves.” Yet I was not convinced of Terry’s dispassionate posturing, watching him chuckle affectionately as the Koi carp came to suck the food off his fingers. “Can you have a relationship with a fish?” I queried, “Do they respond to you?” Terry blinked at me as if to discreetly conceal his surprise at my under-estimate of the sweet nature of his beloved creatures. “They recognise you if you gesture through the glass to them,” he informed me and, as he spread his fingers, caressing the air beside a tank, a whole shoal of little fish swam up to meet his shadow playfully and passed by, turning away with a flick of their tails in unison.

Once upon a time, Terry Jones senior, a native of Bethnal Green, made a fish tank at school, gluing the pieces of glass together and using a slate for the base, heated with night-lights burning beneath. Years later, when he completed National Service, he started out breeding tropical fish with a pal from the Bethnal Green Working Men’s Angling Club. When he began, there were twenty-five fish shops in the East End and sixty years later there are only two, but Terry persevered to create the phenomenon that is Wholesale Tropicals, drawing fish fanciers from as far as Fife. “Because we committed to something we do it properly, that’s why we work here seven days a week and all hours if necessary,” Terry junior assured me, as a loyal advocate of his father’s vision.

“I used to get home at eight each night, and then I’d be out in the shed with the seventy tanks I had there until midnight,” recalled Terry senior fondly, “- until the roof fell in, and I committed myself to building this extension.” And he raised his eyes in pride at his creation, the serried rows of burbling tanks in aisles surrounding us. Standing there in one of the East End’s secret marvels – a temple devoted to the sublime wonders of the deep – beside the unassuming man who kept fifteen-inch piranhas for pets, the discreet genius behind the tropical fish shop that won every award going including the Practical Fishkeeping award for the Best Shop in the South of England, years running – I knew I was in the presence of a big fish.

Terry Jones who started the company in 1961.

One of Bethnal Green’s most reclusive residents.

Terry Jones, junior, with his beloved Koi.

One of Bethnal Green’s most dangerous residents, the African Tiger fish.

Terry caresses a cherished specimen of a South American catfish.

Live locusts for sale off the shelf for the lizard-fanciers of Bethnal Green.

Archie, a regular customer, has a collection of three hundred goldfish, tropicals and toads at home.

The two Terrys at work.

The wall of fame.

Art, Documentary & Resistance In The Thirties

January 23, 2025
by the gentle author

These photographs are selected from the exhibition NOW FILMING: Art, Documentary & Resistance in 1930s East London which explores the work of the Workers’ Film & Photo League, who employed the camera as ‘a weapon in the struggle’ by representing working class lives in their fight against poverty, exploitation and the rise of fascism. This free exhibition opens tomorrow at Four Corners in Bethnal Green and runs until 22nd February.

The ‘Royal’ Repast by John Maltby, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Hunger marchers by Norman King, c 1936

Unemployed workers going to dine at the Ritz by John Maltby, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Reception for women hunger marchers, Islington Town Hall, 1937 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

March against the Unemployed Assistance Board in East London, Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

March against the Unemployed Assistance Board in East London, Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Police removing barricades in Long Lane, Bermondsey, 1937 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Socialist Youth by Workers’ Camera Club, 1935 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

National Unemployed Workers Movement Holloway Branch outside Holloway Odeon, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Kino mobile cinema, 1935

Back view of the Kino mobile cinema showing rear projection screen, 1935

Making the film ‘Bread’, Workers Film & Photo League production still, 1934 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Film & Photo League ‘Now Filming,’  stills from 1937 (courtesy BFI)

Film & Photo League ‘Construction’  stills, 1935 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Filming ‘The Merry Month of May’ 1937 (courtesy Film & Photo League Archive)

Banner of Prime Minister Caballero leads a march in support of the Spanish Republican government by John Maltby, c 1936 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Men reading a poster about the threat of war, c 1938-39 (courtesy Bishopsgate Institute)

Four Corners, 121 Roman Rd, Bethnal Green, E2 0QN

 

How To Make Rout Cakes

January 22, 2025
by the gentle author

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I am proud to publish this edited extract from THE REGENCY COOK by Paul Couchman, a graduate of my writing course. Paul set out to rediscover long-forgotten recipes from the early 1800s.

Follow THE REGENCY COOK

There is still time to book for the next writing course, HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ on February 1st & 2nd.

Come to Spitalfields and spend a winter weekend with me in an eighteenth century weaver’s house in Fournier St, enjoy delicious lunches and eat cakes baked to historic recipes, and learn how to write your own blog.

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Click here for details

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From their earliest beginnings, a rout meant the more people the better. In 1792 hundreds of invitations to a rout were sent by a hostess to people she did not even know. ‘The more people, the more éclat to the thing’ reported the Waterford Herald. Another report talks of guests ‘received at the door by the mistress of the house who smiles at every newcomer with a look of acquaintance.’

Five hundred people were invited by the Duchess of Wellington in 1820 for her rout at Apsley House where she threw open the library, saloon, picture gallery and even the china room. But the poor Marchioness of Landsdowne only managed to get three hundred fashionable guests to her house in Landsdowne Sq in the same year.

A Georgian satirical ‘recipe’ for a rout questions how many of these guests were true ‘fashionables’ – ‘Take all the ladies and gentlemen you can get, place them in a room with low fire, stir them well..the more you put the better, and the more substantial your rout will be.’ It even gave guidance to what to do if undesirables turned up – ‘Fill your room quite full and let scum rise of itself.’

Sometimes the rooms became so overcrowded and there was no room for guests to sit for conversation or a game of cards, or even space to move about. Indeed so cramped and disorderly that some people felt it necessary to remove their furniture. In 1810, an American visitor to London described how ‘the house…is frequently stripped from top to bottom…all but the ornamental furniture is carried out of sight.’

After fifteen minutes of crushing boredom, the American visitor tells us how the guests all rushed out to wait for their coaches and then, after half an hour of waiting outside, moved on to the next rout. But routs could last longer. In the Receipt Book of Mary Whiting Sewell, we learn of routs that lasted two or three hours. Whether long or short, contemporary reports tell us that many people hated attending the rout, some said they only went because one evening’s rout provided enough gossip for the rest of the year.

Music, conversation about books and art, occasionally cards and certainly eating happened at a rout. The menu for a successful rout included sliced beef or ham, seed cakes, sweetmeats and wine. But at the rout, most importantly for us, rout cakes were eaten. They are tiny rich sweet cakes made for routs and are mentioned in contemporary sources, and frequently referred to in eighteenth and nineteenth century literature.

Austen’s Emma was ‘a little shocked at the want of two drawing rooms, at the poor attempt at rout-cakes, and there being no ice in the Highbury card parties. Mrs Bates, Mrs Perry, Mrs Goddard and others, were a good deal behind hand in knowledge of the world, but she would soon shew them how every thing ought to be arranged.’

And in Thackeray’s Vanity Fair Joseph Sedley ‘managed a couple of plates full of strawberries and cream, and twenty-four little rout cakes that were lying neglected in a plate near him.’

‘To make rout drop-cakes, mix two pounds of flour with 1 pound of butter, one pound of sugar, and one pound of currants, cleaned and dried. Moisten it into a stiff paste with two eggs, a large spoonful of orange-flower water, as much rose water, sweet wine and brandy. Drop the paste on a tin plate floured, and a short time will bake them.’ – from the Cook & Housekeeper’s Dictionary, Mary Eaton, 1822.

RECIPE

Makes 12-14 individual small cakes

Ingredients

150g (5oz) plain flour

A pinch of salt

50g (1¾oz) butter at room temperature

50g (1¾oz) caster sugar

1 small egg

40g (1½oz) currants

1 teaspoon orange flower water

1 teaspoon rose water

1 teaspoon sweet wine

1 teaspoon brandy

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180C/160C fan (350F/320F fan/gas mark 4).

2. Grease and line a baking tray.

3. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl.

4. Rub in the butter using the tips of your fingers to make a crumbly mixture. Then stir in the sugar.

5. Beat the whole egg in a small bowl and stir in the orange flower water, the rose water, the sweet wine and the brandy.

6. Gradually mix the liquid ingredients into the dry ingredients to make a smooth dough.

7. Finally, stir in the currants.

8. Spoon small heaps of the mixture onto the baking tray and bake for 16-18 minutes until golden brown.

9. When cool dust with sieved icing sugar.

If you prefer, you can bake the sponge as one piece by spreading the mixture evenly to fill the baking tray. When the sponge has cooled down, you can then cut out, and perhaps decorate, individual cakes with a shaped cutter of your choice. Decorating with hundreds and thousands would be apt. Sugar sprinkles date back to at least the late eighteenth-century, if not earlier when they were called ‘nonpareils.’

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