At Plough Yard
Plough Yard
If you walk up Norton Folgate, past the Crown & Shuttle, then turn left down a narrow side-street and go under the disused bridge of the former London & North Eastern Railway, you will discover Plough Yard.
Resembling the galleried courtyard of a coaching inn – of the kind that once lined Bishopsgate when it was the point of arrival and departure for those travelling the Roman road north from the City of London – this unexpected enclave of tranquillity, concealed amidst the clamor where major thoroughfares collide, has always fascinated me. And, in recent years, the excavation of the Curtain Theatre where ‘Romeo & Juliet’ and ‘Henry V’ were first performed on a site adjoining Plough Yard, has served to increase my curiosity for this hidden corner still further.
So last week, Contributing Photographer Patricia Niven & I went along to explore. We received a generous welcome from the occupants of Plough Yard and encountered a thriving community of small businesses, run by people working and living side-by-side in a wide variety of different spaces, within this appealingly ramshackle collection of buildings of indeterminate age.
Ancient battered floorboards and remnants of nineteenth century machinery attest to the immediate industrial past of Plough Yard as a steelworks, but the presence of vast wooden beams and some earlier rough stonework suggest that this charismatic amalgam of structures has evolved on this site over many centuries. Such a palimpsest of yards and interconnected buildings has long been the architectural pattern here at the boundary of the City of London as small trades and artisans have gathered to take business advantage of their wealthy neighbours.
Just south of Plough Yard is the monolithic Broadgate Tower and the space between is presently to be filled by Pinnacle Place, another high rise development of monstrous ambition in harsh contrast to the human scale of the Shoreditch streets beyond. Next, Plough Yard will be erased by the forty-storey Bard Tower constructed on top of the site of Shakespeare’s theatre. It is astonishing to me that the discovery of a location of global cultural significance such as the Curtain Theatre is viewed as a development opportunity to put up another tower block with a shopping mall underneath and I cannot resist the notion that this cheap opportunism will be judged retrospectively as a condemnation of our age.
But, in the meantime, it is my pleasure to introduce you to some of the residents of Plough Yard. “Our community means so much to those who live here,” resident Zak Coogan admitted to me, “but it is worthless to the developers.”
These are the most recent in a long continuum of the proprietor owned-and-run businesses which have always characterised this corner of the East End, with families living in the workplace and small inter-related companies supporting each other.
Zak Coogan, proprietor of Smartinfo Ltd, and his wife Rachel live and work in Plough Yard with their baby daughter, Freya
“I run a telecommunications business from home and many of my customers are in the City of London so I need to be close to them. Eight years ago, we moved to Plough Yard from Old St to escape the noise. We’ve had the happiest years of our lives here – we got married in Plough Yard and our lives are intertwined with this building. Like the other tenants, we’re on an annual lease but the developers will only say we have ‘about two years’ – we know we’re definitely here until February.”
The first floor “cottage” where Zac, Rachel and Freya live.
Painter, Jasper Joffe lives and works in a studio on the ground floor with his eight-year-old daughter
“This is one of the few places I’ve lived where I’ve become friends with the neighbours. It’s incredible for sleeping because it is so quiet and neither too hot in summer or too cold in winter – the thick old walls hold a stable temperature. My daughter’s become a bit fashionable and arranges her toys to decorate the place. She says, ‘We really live at the centre of things, don’t we?’ Since I moved in, I have felt at home. “
Jasper Joffe’s daughter’s cabin
Film Editor, Ben Hilton, lives and works on the ground floor with his wife and their dog, Jarvis Cocker
“The reason I live here is the history. I find it a constant source of inspiration to be living not only in a historic building but amongst streets and upon land in which the past is so compelling – from the Shakespearean theatre literally beneath my feet while I work, to the age-old pattern of streets surrounding me and the legacy of the people that walked them, and what they achieved through the centuries. The thought of all this makes living here feel like a privilege. I feel honoured to have my small patch of working London.”
The view towards Bethnal Green.
Film composer, Amory Leader, moved in on the first floor six weeks ago.
The view towards Shoreditch.
Video production in an attic space at Plough Yard.
Film-maker, Chris Richmond of Atticus Finch has been based at Plough Yard for eleven years.
Plough Yard
The Curtain Theatre with Plough Yard in front and Ermine St, the Roman road north, in the foreground – as pictured in “A View of the Cittye of London” c. 1600
Built upon the site of the Curtain Theatre, the Bard Tower will replace Plough Yard.
Photographs copyright © Patricia Niven
This is being demolished?!
I am saddened this morning. The Bard Tower??? Why develop? Why build so high? (Well I know the answer th that one). Leeds has also recently been blighted by skyscrapers.
Can’t believe they can knock down ancient buildings and build a 60s style tower block – how did that get through planning?!
Absolutely astonishing this is about to go! Breaks your heart.
Yes, so like the courtyard of a coaching inn. This rich dust to be blown away, and the emptiness built upon by empty souls building empty towers.
True tragedy. Indeed a time of historic shame. But, in the end, all so tenuous – so soon to crumble and to be reclaimed.
The last picture gives it all – the apparently drunken gorilla obliterating the O of HOPE as someone’s idea of street art, while the real art of the street is wiped out. Way too realistic!
Soon we will be surrounded on all sides with soulless , high rise development like Bard Tower. How does something like that get planning approval? Shocking.
Tragic development wasting the heritage of London. Like the grey concrete box that will stifle the Marquis of Lansdowne. Any ugliness is acceptable as long as the developers can make money.
Bobbster… (I imagine) that you can get anything past the planning stage with money and friends or contacts in high places. The truth is that most of us who are forced by circumstances to live in cities would rather live in thriving (Small) communities like this one. You only have to see the comments that are made by the residents and workers to realise that they value being part of this community.
“Our community means so much to those who live here,” “I find it a constant source of inspiration,” “This is one of the few places I’ve lived where I’ve become friends with the neighbours.” I wish that I could say the same about my small part of the world….
I can only echo everyone’s dismay at the way the monstrous new development will obliterate a thriving, successful and ancient community. Unfortunately that new tower block looks all too much like those from the 1960s and 1970s which have proved to be disastrous and have been pulled down.
I visit London because it’s not New York or Toronto or Hong Kong. Why does London want to copy highrise ugliness?
The demolition of this special, secret corner of South Shoreditch will be a huge loss, not only to those who live and work there but also to lovers of higgledy piggledy inner city-scapes which have been built-up and worn-in by countless generations plying their trades and living their lives.
Human scale places of live and work form the heart of soul of our great cities and it is dispiriting in the extreme to see all those memories so casually swept aside by the developers broom, aided and abetted by their cronies in the Council Planning Dept.
How on earth can the developers be allowed to carelessly throw aside people’s lives and businesses like this to build such a monstrosity for no other reason than profit, and in the process, destroy a thriving and happy community and these wonderful buildings. Madness!!
This is just madness, what is heritage if not alive?, history, that’s what. A community is a living human thing, last time I checked it was still illegal to kill a human thing.
It is such a shame that another community will be demolished along with these lovely historic building. Do we really need more ugly towers and less history and community?
I’m saddened to read about this and to see how short-sighted poeple can be in their wish for ‘progress’ and ‘development’. We should be hanging on to places like this for dear life as once it’s gone it’s gone…along with the history and community that brings it to life…
It is such a pity that we pride ourselves on being an inclusive country and yet we continue to destroy communities that create the multitude of cultures that we have already living in Britain creating a monoculture of tower blocks. This desecration pushes small businesses and artisans away from where they can thrive. Plough Yard is a fantastic small community right in the heart of the city it should be celebrated not destroyed.
I was uplifted on this Sunday evening when I read about Plough Yard and its
inhabitants and then I’m told it will all go one day and be replaced by another
tower block monstrosity – no, no, no!!
When you see the 1600 map, recognise the same type of building in almost the same place and realise the horribly named Bard Tower will destroy 400 years of London history it’s doubly depressing. As the author says, the way of life in Plough Yard is something with roots in the past. The current trend seems to be to pull up all the roots and sow salt in the ground.
What a shame. It’s hard to believe such a historic theater was demolished, and that such an interesting area is being targeted now.
I have walked past Plough Yard on many occasions and always wondered who lived and worked there. Well, now I know and I’m devastated to hear that this urban idyll is to be destroyed in favour of yet another hideous, faceless tower block. How can this happen? We are constantly being told by Mr D Cameron that we all need to do our bit for the Big Society, yet here we have a thriving, working community about to be uprooted and destroyed. No, no, no! Secondly, how can a site of such historical significance be celebrated by the erection of a 40 floor tower and the destruction of the layers of history that surround it. Again, no, no, no!!
Its such a pity when a sense of community & history count for so little in todays world. Surely there must be other unused sites that could be developed instead of using places such as this where there is a vibrant community & that have a direct link with our capitals past.
Bard Tower? Seriously? Is it April Fool’s Day? That can’t really happen, can it? That mock up of that Godzilla building is just horrible. Aren’t there any height restrictions? I just can’t even fathom it.
These little hubs of urban creativeness are so essential to keep the heart and soul of London alive. The small enterprises that thrive within these areas are accessible, inviting and bespoke. It’s a tragedy that the proposed building is to be a complete contradiction to this… sterile, non- accessible and generically corporate.
omigod – what has it come to that we see such a creative and dynamic place evolved organically through history and we pull it down and build another monstrosity – I am a Councillor in Lincolnshire and on Development Control and we discover that there is little that we can do because of the appeal system but we try and I thank God I don’t have to have this on my conscience! We just turned down an application for a wind turbine in the middle of the Vale on Belvoir last week …
The railway used to go into Broad Street station, and it was the London Midland & Scottish, not Liverpool Street’s LNER.
Well, just saying.
Yikes, the new development is in no way an improvement. I guess somebody is looking to make as much money as possible in as short a time as possible. Heartbreaking for everyone else.
I live where I work and I love the set up.
What a shame, I’ve always loved how carefully London preserves its rich history – it looks like if left to ‘planning’ it will all be destroyed
Such a little gem Plough Yard, London always manages to have pockets of creativity tucked away where you least expect it- it will such a shame to see it go for another tower, I mean do we really need another tower? Its been on borrowed time for years I guess which makes it all the more special! I have many happy memories from there from visits of old. RIP Plough yard.
The tower is not only ugly but completely out of proportion which the neighbouring buildings and will cast huge shadows over the South Shoreditch Conservation area. Neighbourhoods such as Plough Yard with years of history and architectural charm should be cherished and preserved rather than encroached upon and dominated by terrifyingly foreboding tower blocks.
Who is going to live in this monstrosity? …..A bunch of overpaid bankers from Monday to Thursday who will return to their ‘piles’ in the country for the weekend.
Will it benefit anyone who is currently living in Hackney? Only the very few who may succeed in getting the ‘social housing’.
So Hackney does not benefit that just leaves the Developers and the Bankers. No change there then.
This would mean yet another magic pocket of London destroyed. What differentiates this city is hubs of creativity mixed with family life not distinct ghettos. Let’s hope it doesn’t happen…
what an ugly building the Bard Tower is. it must be stopped. does shoreditch really need this ?
Hi, I am wondering why there are no photos anywhere on the web of The Curtain Theatre that was in the grounds of Toynbee Hall during the 1960s-80s (not the original Curtain). The only photos of the theatre are the ones I have of me performing on the stage as a child. I haven’t lived in the East End since 1965, and doubt I’d recognise it now .
when is our history and historical landmarks going to be left alone. This national heritage is a testimony to our past and home to people who respect and love the area they have chosen to live and work in. I sincerely hope that any planning permission will swiftly and irrevocably be turned down.
and……………..inspired yet again by the outstanding blog that we have here, I made a deliberate visit today to visit Plough Yard and to photograph what’s there and also to do the same from the garden of the adjacent ‘Crown and Shuttle’
if Boris and the developers have their way, all that remains of anything different will be demolished, progress isn’t good at all and isn’t needed
That is so sad, everyone seems to be so content and thriving in this small community in such a historic location.
So sad! The higher the buildings, the lower the morals. Valerie
I’m all in favour of progress but at what price? The developers have obviously chosen to ignore the lessons of the past. People don’t like living long term in high rise buildings. They are depressing. The design of the Bard has absolutely no imagination. It looks soulless. I would hate to live/work there. Can it be stopped? Why bulldoze our history. Regeneration of the existing is surely a better solution.
I used to work as a Finished Artist for a company called Eureka Arts in a rickety old building in Bowl Court off Plough yard….. Freezing in the winter sweltering in the summer, most of the time we spent either huddled around heaters or fans. The street lighting was very poor and consequently was very dark at night time, come opening up time we often had to sweep away the evidence of the working girls who plied their trade in our doorway. Every day we toiled away with Rotring pens, scalpels, hairdryers, drafting film, drawing boards and wax machines on the attic floor of what must have been a very old warehouse given all the doors and crane jibs on each floor …. Our fire escape was a kind of harness thing that hung from the jib outside and we looked out onto an old railway viaduct which was overgrown with grass and blackberry bushes, was lovely to look at in the summer…It was a hard life (especially for our busy courier Jamie who had to walk up all those flights of stairs countless times a day) but oh what fun and what a great area to spend the late 80’s to late 90’s, we were witnesses to the whole trendification (is that a word) and artying-up of the area probably because of clubs like the Blue Note in Hoxton. It’s such a shame to see this go I will always have a soft spot for it I spent many happy days there.
Just read a planning info sheet on this proposed tower block. Apparently the Curtain Theatre (where Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet was first performed) is being preserved below as an exhibition and performance space and is expected to become a major tourist attraction.
Does any one know the once whereabouts of the plough inn in plough yard? If so does anything still exist?
thank you
Keith
I recently found out that my ancestors in the late 1700s were born, brought up and plied their trade of gin distillation and selling from Plough Yard. I wonder what Thomas North and his family would have thought about the way their London was being destroyed.
My ancestors lived at the Plough in Plough Yard and he was called Thomas North. I’m happy to share my research around the Plough at Plough Yard and the North family. They also had a licence for The Unicorn on the high street. I have insurance document for Thomas North at Kings Head Court of 1789. he was a butcher and licenced victualler. It was his son Thomas North who had the plough and Unicorn. His son another Thomas North left and went to Shrewsbury. His great grand Daughter Lizzie May North was my grand mother.