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	<title>Culinary Life &#8211; Spitalfields Life</title>
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	<description>In the midst of life I woke to find myself living in an old house beside Brick Lane in the East End of London</description>
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		<title>The Ceremony Of The Widow&#8217;s Buns</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/03/the-ceremony-of-the-widows-buns-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/03/the-ceremony-of-the-widows-buns-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Apr 2026 23:01:34 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cultural Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206538</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The Gentle Author’s Tour of the City of London: Meet me at 2pm on EASTER MONDAY on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral for a tour of sightseeing and storytelling, rambling through the alleys and byways of the Square Mile in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City. (Also booking for Spring Bank [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-206539" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?resize=600%2C729&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="729" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?resize=247%2C300&amp;ssl=1 247w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><span style="color: #800000;"><em><strong>The Gentle Author’s Tour of the City of London:</strong> Meet me at 2pm on EASTER MONDAY on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral for a tour of sightseeing and storytelling, rambling through the alleys and byways of the Square Mile in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City. (Also booking for Spring Bank Holiday Monday 4th May)</em></span></p>
<p><a href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>CLICK HERE TO BOOK</strong></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Fifteen years ago on a cold Good Friday, I attended the ceremony of the widow&#8217;s buns at Bow. The ceremony will taking place at 2pm today.</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1507/" rel="attachment wp-att-30392"><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30392" title="IMG_1507" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?resize=600%2C793" alt="" width="600" height="793" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Baked by Mr Bunn&#8217;s Bakery in Chadwell Heath</em></p>
<p>On Good Friday, what could be more appropriate to the equivocal nature of the day than an event which involves both celebration of Hot Cross Buns and the remembrance of the departed in a single custom &#8211; such is the ceremony of the Widow&#8217;s Buns at Bow.</p>
<p>A net of Hot Cross Buns hangs above the bar at The Widow&#8217;s Son in Bromley by Bow, and each year a sailor comes to add another bun to the collection. And this year I was there to witness it for myself, though &#8211; before you make any assumption based on your knowledge of my passion for buns  &#8211; I must clarify that no Hot Cross Buns are eaten in the ceremony, they are purely for symbolic purposes. Left to dry out and gather dust and hang in the net for eternity, London&#8217;s oldest buns exist as metaphors to represent the passing years and talismans to bring good luck but, more than this, they tell a story.</p>
<p>The Widow&#8217;s Son was built in 1848 upon the former site of an old widow&#8217;s cottage, so the tale goes. When her only son left to be a sailor, she promised to bake him a Hot Cross Bun and keep it for his return. But although he drowned at sea, the widow refused to give up hope, preserving the bun upon his return and making a fresh one each year to add to the collection. This annual tradition has been continued in the pub as a remembrance of the widow and her son, and of the bond between all those on land and sea, with sailors of the Royal Navy coming to place the bun in the net every year.</p>
<p>Behind this custom lies the belief that Hot Cross Buns baked on Good Friday will never decay, reflected in the tradition of nailing a Hot Cross Bun to the wall so that the cross may bring good luck to the household &#8211; though what appeals to me about the story of the widow is the notion of baking as an act of faith, incarnating a mother&#8217;s hope that her son lives. I interpret the widow&#8217;s persistence in making the bun each year as a beautiful gesture, not of self-deception but of longing for wish-fulfilment, manifesting her love for her son. So I especially like the clever image upon the inn sign outside the Widow&#8217;s Son, illustrating an apocryphal scene in the story when the son returns from the sea many years later to discover a huge net of buns hanging behind the door, demonstrating that his mother always expected him back.</p>
<p>When I arrived at the Widow&#8217;s Son, I had the good fortune to meet Frederick Beckett who first came here for the ceremony in 1958 when his brother Alan placed the Hot Cross Bun in the net, and he had the treasured photo in his hand to show me. Frederick moved out from Bow to Dagenham fifteen years ago, but he still comes back each year to visit the Widow&#8217;s Son, one of many in this community and further afield who delight to converge here on Good Friday for old times&#8217; sake. Already, there was a tangible sense of anticipation, with spirits uplifted by the sunshine and the flags hung outside, ready to celebrate St George next day.</p>
<p>The landlady proudly showed me the handsome fresh 2011 Hot Cross Bun, baked by Mr Bunn of Mr Bunn&#8217;s Bakery in Chadwell Heath who always makes the special bun each year  <em>-&#8221; fabulous buns!&#8221; </em>declared Kathy, almost succumbing to a swoon, as he she held up her newest sweetest darling that would shortly join its fellows in the net over the bar. There were many more ancient buns, she explained, until a fire destroyed most of them fifteen years ago, and those burnt ones in the net today are merely those few which were salvaged by the firemen from the wreckage of the pub. Remarkably, having opened their hearts to the emotional poetry of Hot Cross Buns, at the Widow&#8217;s Son they even cherish those cinders which the rest of the world would consign to a bin.</p>
<p>The effect of the beer and the unseasonal warm temperatures upon a pub full of sailors and thirsty locals rapidly induced a pervasive atmosphere of collective euphoria, heightened by a soundtrack of pounding rock, and, in the thick of it, I was delighted to meet my old pal Lenny Hamilton, the jewel thief. <em>&#8220;I&#8217;m not here for the buns, I&#8217;m here for the bums!&#8221; </em>he confided to me with a sip of his Corvoisier and lemonade, making a lewd gesture and breaking in to a wide grin of salacious enjoyment as various Bow belles, in off-the-shoulder dresses, with flowing locks and wearing festive corsages, came over enthusiastically to shower this legendary rascal with kisses.</p>
<p>I stood beside Lenny as three o&#8217; clock approached, enjoying the high-spirited gathering as the sailors came together in front of the bar. The landlord handed over the Hot Cross Bun to widespread applause and the sailors lifted up their smallest recruit. Then, with a mighty cheer from the crowd and multiple camera flashes, the recruit placed the bun in the net.  Once this heroic task was accomplished, and the landlady had removed the tinfoil covers from the dishes of food laid out upon the billiard table, all the elements were in place for a knees-up to last the rest of the day. As they like to say in Bromley by Bow, it was <em>&#8220;Another year, another Good Friday, another bun.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1491/" rel="attachment wp-att-30390"><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30390" title="IMG_1491" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Peter Gracey, Nick Edelshain and Roddy Urquhart raise a pint to the Widow&#8217;s Buns.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1484/" rel="attachment wp-att-30388"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30388" title="IMG_1484" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?resize=600%2C455" alt="" width="600" height="455" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?resize=300%2C227&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Tony Scott and Debbie Willis of HMS President with Frederick Beckett holding the photograph of his brother placing the bun in the net in 1958.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1488/" rel="attachment wp-att-30389"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30389" title="IMG_1488" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?resize=600%2C820" alt="" width="600" height="820" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?resize=219%2C300&amp;ssl=1 219w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Alan Beckett places the bun on Good Friday, 4th April 1958.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1503/" rel="attachment wp-att-30391"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30391" title="IMG_1503" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=600%2C598" alt="" width="600" height="598" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=200%2C200&amp;ssl=1 200w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_4439/" rel="attachment wp-att-30396"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30396" title="IMG_4439" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?resize=600%2C513" alt="" width="600" height="513" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?resize=300%2C256&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>3 pm, Good Friday, 22nd April 2011.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1551/" rel="attachment wp-att-30394"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30394" title="IMG_1551" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The Widow&#8217;s Son was the local for my pal Lenny Hamilton, the jewel thief.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_4428/" rel="attachment wp-att-30395"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30395" title="IMG_4428" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?resize=600%2C450" alt="" width="600" height="450" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1516/" rel="attachment wp-att-30393"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30393" title="IMG_1516" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?resize=600%2C745" alt="" width="600" height="745" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?resize=241%2C300&amp;ssl=1 241w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A Widow&#8217;s Son of Bromley by Bow</strong></p>
<p>by Harold Adshead</p>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A widow had an only son,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The sea was his concern,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">His parting wish an Easter Bun</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Be kept for his return.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">But when it came to Eastertide</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">No sailor came her way</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">To claim the bun she set aside</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Against the happy day.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">They say the ship was lost at sea,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The son came home no more</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">But still with humble piety</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The widow kept her store.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">So year by year a humble bun</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Was charm against despair,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A loving task that once began</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Became her livelong care.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The Widow&#8217;s Son is now an inn</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">That stands upon the site</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">And signifies its origin</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Each year by Easter rite</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The buns hang up for all to see,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A blackened mass above,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A truly strange epitome</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Of patient mother love.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-206546" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?resize=600%2C739&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="739" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?resize=244%2C300&amp;ssl=1 244w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></address>
<address> </address>
<address>London’s oldest buns photographed by London &amp; Middlesex Archaeological Society in the 1940s</address>
]]></content:encoded>
					
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		<title>The Bakers Of Widegate St</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/06/the-bakers-of-widegate-st-iiii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/06/the-bakers-of-widegate-st-iiii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2026 00:01:31 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spiritual Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206312</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[CLICK HERE TO BOOK &#160; Next time you pass through Widegate St, walking from Bishopsgate towards Artillery Passage on your way to Spitalfields, lift up your eyes to see the four splendid sculptures of bakers by Philip Lindsey Clark (1889 &#8211; 1977) upon the former premises of Nordheim Model Bakery at numbers twelve and thirteen. [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0045-9/" rel="attachment wp-att-58534"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205815" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?w=672&amp;ssl=1 672w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener">CLICK HERE TO BOOK</a></strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58534" title="IMG_0045" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Next time you pass through Widegate St, walking from Bishopsgate towards Artillery Passage on your way to Spitalfields, lift up your eyes to see the four splendid sculptures of bakers by Philip Lindsey Clark (1889 &#8211; 1977) upon the former premises of Nordheim Model Bakery at numbers twelve and thirteen. Pause to take in the subtle proportions of this appealing yet modest building of 1926 by George Val Myers, the architect of Broadcasting House.</p>
<p>Born in Brixton, son of Scots architectural sculptor Robert Lindsey Clark, Philip trained in his father&#8217;s studio in Cheltenham and then returned to London to study at the City &amp; Guilds School in Kennington. Enlisted in 1914, he was severely wounded in action and received a Distinguished Service Order for conspicuous gallantry. Then, after completing his training at the Royal Academy Schools, he designed a number of war memorials including those in Southwark and in Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow.</p>
<p>The form of these ceramic reliefs of bakers &#8211; with their white glaze and sparing use of blue as a background &#8211; recalls religious sculpture, especially stations of the cross, and there is something deeply engaging about such handsome, austerely-modelled figures with their self-absorbed presence, preoccupied by their work. The dignity of labour and the poetic narrative of transformation in the baking of bread is made tangible by these finely judged sculptures. My own favourite is the figure of the baker with his tray of loaves upon his shoulder in triumph, a satisfaction which anyone who makes anything will recognise, borne of the work, skill and application that is entailed in creation.</p>
<p>These reliefs were fired by Carters of Poole, the company that became Poole Pottery, notable for their luminous white glazes, elegant sculptural forms and spare decoration using clear natural colours. They created many of the tiles for the London Underground and their relief tiles from the 1930s can still be seen on Bethnal Green Station.</p>
<p>Philip Lindsey Clark&#8217;s sculptures are those of a man who grew up in the artists&#8217; studio, yet witnessed the carnage of First World War at first hand, carrying on fighting for two days even with a piece of shrapnel buried in his head, and then turned his talents to memorialise those of his generation that were gone. After that, it is no wonder that he saw the sublime in the commonplace activity of bakers yet, from 1930 onwards, his sculpture was exclusively of religious subjects. Eventually Lindsey Clark entered a Carmelite order, leaving London and retiring to the West Country where he lived until the age of eighty-eight.</p>
<p>So take a moment next time you pass through Widegate St &#8211; named after the wide gate leading to the &#8216;spital fields that once were there &#8211; and contemplate the sculptures by Philip Lindsey Clark, embodying his vision of the holiness of bakers.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0047-6/" rel="attachment wp-att-58535"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58535" title="IMG_0047" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0049-4/" rel="attachment wp-att-58536"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58536" title="IMG_0049" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0050-11/" rel="attachment wp-att-58537"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58537" title="IMG_0050" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0061-4/" rel="attachment wp-att-58538"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58538" title="IMG_0061" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>George Val Myer&#8217;s former Nordheim Model Bakery with sculptures by Philip Lindsey Clark</p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/04/26/a-night-in-the-bakery-at-st-john/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>A Night in the Bakery at St John</em></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/11/19/dorothy-annans-murals-in-farringdon-st/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>Dorothy Annan&#8217;s Murals in Farringdon St</em></a></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/05/19/margaret-ropes-east-end-saints/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Margaret Rope&#8217;s East End Saints</a></em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/06/24/a-door-in-cornhill/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>A Door in Cornhill</em></a></p>
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		<title>At The Pellicci Museum</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/01/at-the-pellicci-museum/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/01/at-the-pellicci-museum/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Mar 2026 00:01:55 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cultural Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206295</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[&#160; This is Lucinda Rogers&#8216; drawing of E.Pellicci in the Bethnal Green Rd, London&#8217;s most celebrated family-run cafe, into the third generation now and in business for over a century &#8211; and continuing to welcome East Enders who have been coming for generations to sit in the cosy marquetry-lined interior and enjoy the honest, keenly-priced meals [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0001/" rel="attachment wp-att-26445"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26445" title="pellicci_0001" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?resize=600%2C355" alt="" width="600" height="355" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?resize=300%2C177&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>This is <a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/11/10/lucinda-rogers-east-end/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lucinda Rogers</a>&#8216; drawing of E.Pellicci in the Bethnal Green Rd, London&#8217;s most celebrated family-run cafe, into the third generation now and in business for over a century &#8211; and continuing to welcome East Enders who have been coming for generations to sit in the cosy marquetry-lined interior and enjoy the honest, keenly-priced meals prepared every day from fresh ingredients.</p>
<p>E.Pellicci is a marvel. It is so beautiful it is listed, the food is always exemplary and I every time I come here I leave heartened to have met someone new.</p>
<p>I found Lucinda Rogers&#8217; drawing on the wall in one of the small upper rooms that now serves as an informal museum of the history of the cafe, curated by Maria Pellicci&#8217;s nephew &#8211; Toni, a bright-eyed Neapolitan, who has been working here since he left school in Lucca in Tuscany and came to London in 1970. He led me up the narrow staircase, opened the door of the low-ceilinged room and with a single shy gesture of his arm indicated the family museum. Toni has lined the walls with press cuttings, photographs and all kinds of memorabilia, which tell the story of the ascendancy of Pellicci&#8217;s, attended by a few statues of saints to give the pleasing aura of a shrine to this cherished collection.</p>
<p>Primo Pellici began working in the cafe in 1900 and it was here in these two rooms that his wife Elide brought up his seven children single-handedly, whilst running the cafe below to keep the family after her husband&#8217;s death in 1931. Elide is the E.Pellicci whose initial is still emblazoned in chrome upon the primrose-hued vitroglass fascia and her portrait remains, she and her husband counterbalance each other eternally on either side of the serving hatch in the cafe. In 1921, Nevio senior was born in the front room here. He ran the cafe until his death in 2008, superceded as head of the family business today by his wife Maria who possesses a natural authority and charisma that makes her a worthy successor to Elide.</p>
<p>As I sat alone in the quiet of the room, leafing through the albums, surrounded by the walls of press coverage, Maria came upstairs from the kitchen to join me. She pointed out the flat roof at the rear where her former husband Nevio played as a child. <em>&#8220;He was very happy here,&#8221;</em> she assured me with a tender smile, standing silently and casting her eyes between the two empty rooms &#8211; sensing the emotional presence of the crowded family life that once filled in this space that is now a modest store room and an office. Maria and Nevio brought up their children in a terraced house around the corner in Derbyshire St, and these days Toni goes round each morning early to pick her up from there, before they start work around six at the cafe she runs with her son Nevio and daughter Anna.</p>
<p>Pellicci&#8217;s collection tells a very particular history of the twentieth century and beyond &#8211; of immigration, of wars, of coronations and gangsters too. But, more than this, it is a history of wonderful meals, a history of very hard work, a history of great family pride, and a history of happiness and love.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8462/" rel="attachment wp-att-26435"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26435" title="IMG_8462" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Primo Pellicci still presides upon the cafe where he started work in 1900</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive10/" rel="attachment wp-att-26442"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26442" title="pell_archive10" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?resize=600%2C910" alt="" width="600" height="910" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?w=495&amp;ssl=1 495w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Primo&#8217;s children, Nevio and Mary Pellicci, 1930</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0002/" rel="attachment wp-att-26446"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26446" title="pellicci_0002" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?resize=600%2C890" alt="" width="600" height="890" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?resize=202%2C300&amp;ssl=1 202w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s wartime licence issued to Elide Pellicci in 1939 by the Ministry of Food</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0011/" rel="attachment wp-att-26451"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26451" title="pellicci_0011" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?resize=600%2C636" alt="" width="600" height="636" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?resize=283%2C300&amp;ssl=1 283w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s paper bag issued to celebrate the Coronation of Elizabeth II  in 1953 &#8211; note the phone number, Bishopsgate 1542</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive11-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26460"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26460" title="pell_archive11" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?resize=600%2C911" alt="" width="600" height="911" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?w=527&amp;ssl=1 527w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Mary and Maria Pellicci, Trafalgar Sq, 1963</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26461"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26461" title="pellicci" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?resize=600%2C625" alt="" width="600" height="625" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?resize=288%2C300&amp;ssl=1 288w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0003/" rel="attachment wp-att-26447"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26447" title="pellicci_0003" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?resize=600%2C806" alt="" width="600" height="806" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?resize=223%2C300&amp;ssl=1 223w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio junior, aged seven, skylarking outside the house in Derbyshire St with pals Claudio and Alfie</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive4-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26462"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26462" title="pell_archive4" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?resize=600%2C401" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?w=528&amp;ssl=1 528w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio senior and Toni, 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive3-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26463"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26463" title="pell_archive3" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?resize=600%2C384" alt="" width="600" height="384" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?w=536&amp;ssl=1 536w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?resize=300%2C191&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s customers in 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive6/" rel="attachment wp-att-26441"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26441" title="pell_archive6" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?resize=600%2C397" alt="" width="600" height="397" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?w=539&amp;ssl=1 539w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?resize=300%2C198&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio senior, 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0005/" rel="attachment wp-att-26449"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26449" title="pellicci_0005" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?resize=600%2C476" alt="" width="600" height="476" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?resize=300%2C238&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio and Toni</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0007/" rel="attachment wp-att-26450"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26450" title="pellicci_0007" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?resize=600%2C883" alt="" width="600" height="883" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?resize=203%2C300&amp;ssl=1 203w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive14/" rel="attachment wp-att-26444"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26444" title="pell_archive14" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?resize=600%2C765" alt="" width="600" height="765" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?w=439&amp;ssl=1 439w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?resize=235%2C300&amp;ssl=1 235w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Christmas card from Charlie Kray, 1980</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8455-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26434"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26434" title="IMG_8455" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?resize=600%2C415" alt="" width="600" height="415" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?resize=300%2C207&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Nevio junior and Nevio senior</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8467/" rel="attachment wp-att-26436"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26436" title="IMG_8467" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?resize=600%2C417" alt="" width="600" height="417" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?resize=300%2C208&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">George Flay&#8217;s montage of the world of Pellicci&#8217;s</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/nevio_tel/" rel="attachment wp-att-26438"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26438" title="nevio_tel" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?resize=600%2C361" alt="" width="600" height="361" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?w=450&amp;ssl=1 450w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?resize=300%2C180&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Nevio Senior, 2005</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8479/" rel="attachment wp-att-26437"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26437" title="IMG_8479" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?resize=600%2C470" alt="" width="600" height="470" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?resize=300%2C235&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellici/" rel="attachment wp-att-26453"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26453" title="pellici" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?resize=600%2C412" alt="" width="600" height="412" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?resize=300%2C206&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8449/" rel="attachment wp-att-26433"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26433" title="IMG_8449" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?resize=600%2C521" alt="" width="600" height="521" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?resize=300%2C260&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Salvatore Zaccaria, known as Toni, curator of the Pellicci Museum</p>
<p><em>You may also enjoy reading</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/02/13/maria-pellicci-cook/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Maria Pellicci, Cook</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/03/05/pellicis-celebrity-album/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Pellicci&#8217;s Celebrity Album</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/10/21/maria-pellicci-the-meatball-queen-of-bethnal-green/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Meatball Queen of Bethnal Green</a></em></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206295</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>At The Jewish Soup Kitchen</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/02/28/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/02/28/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2026 00:01:28 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Past Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photo Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206285</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Click here to book your spring walk through Spitalfields Click here to book your walk through the City of London . Originally established in 1854 in Leman St, the Jewish Soup Kitchen opened in Brune St in 1902 and, even though it closed in 1992, the building in Spitalfields still proclaims its purpose to the [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205815" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?w=672&amp;ssl=1 672w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0000ff;"><a style="color: #0000ff;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em><strong>Click here to book your spring walk through Spitalfields</strong></em></a></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #339966;"><strong><a style="color: #339966;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>Click here to book your walk through the City of London</em></a></strong></span></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_005/" rel="attachment wp-att-107790"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107790" title="SFE_900201_005" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?resize=600%2C392" alt="" width="600" height="392" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?resize=300%2C196&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Originally established in 1854 in Leman St, the Jewish Soup Kitchen opened in Brune St in 1902 and, even though it closed in 1992, the building in Spitalfields still proclaims its purpose to the world in bold ceramic lettering across the fascia. These days few remember when it was supplying groceries to fifteen hundred people weekly, which makes Photographer <a href="http://www.stuartfreedman.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stuart Freedman&#8217;s</a> pictures especially interesting as a glimpse of one of the last vestiges of the Jewish East End.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;After I finished studying Politics at university, I decided I wanted to be a photographer but I didn&#8217;t know how to do it,&#8221; </em>Stuart recalled, contemplating these pictures taken in 1990 at the very beginning of his career. &#8220;<em>Although I was brought up in Dalston, my father had grown up in Stepney in the thirties and, invariably, when we used to go walking together we always ended up in Petticoat Lane, which seemed to have a talismanic quality for him. So I think I was following in his footsteps.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><em>&#8220;I used to wander with my camera and, one day, I was just walking around taking pictures, when I moseyed in to the Soup Kitchen and said &#8216;Can I take photographs?&#8217; and they said, &#8216;Yes.&#8217; &#8220;</em><em>I didn&#8217;t realise what I was doing because now they seem to be the only pictures of this place in existence. You could smell that area then &#8211; the smell of damp in old men&#8217;s coats and the poverty.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>For the past twenty-five years Stuart Freedman has worked internationally as a photojournalist, yet he was surprised to come upon new soup kitchens recently while on assignment in the north of England.<em> &#8220;The poverty is back,&#8221;</em> he revealed to me in regret,<em>&#8220;which makes these pictures relevant all over again.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_009/" rel="attachment wp-att-107791"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107791" title="SFE_900201_009" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?resize=600%2C845" alt="" width="600" height="845" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?resize=213%2C300&amp;ssl=1 213w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Groceries awaiting collection</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_003/" rel="attachment wp-att-107792"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107792" title="SFE_900201_003" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?resize=600%2C404" alt="" width="600" height="404" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?resize=300%2C202&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A volunteer offers a second hand coat to an old lady</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_007/" rel="attachment wp-att-107793"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107793" title="SFE_900201_007" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?resize=600%2C394" alt="" width="600" height="394" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?resize=300%2C197&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An old woman collects her grocery allowance</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_015/" rel="attachment wp-att-107794"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107794" title="SFE_900201_015" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?resize=600%2C395" alt="" width="600" height="395" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?resize=300%2C197&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A volunteer distributes donated groceries</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_013/" rel="attachment wp-att-107795"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107795" title="SFE_900201_013" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?resize=600%2C401" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>View from behind the hatch</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_021/" rel="attachment wp-att-107796"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107796" title="SFE_900201_021" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?resize=600%2C897" alt="" width="600" height="897" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A couple await their food parcel</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_017-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-107798"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107798" title="SFE_900201_017" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?resize=600%2C396" alt="" width="600" height="396" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?resize=300%2C198&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An ex-boxer arrives to collect his weekly rations</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_019/" rel="attachment wp-att-107799"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107799" title="SFE_900201_019" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?resize=600%2C915" alt="" width="600" height="915" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?resize=196%2C300&amp;ssl=1 196w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An old boxer&#8217;s portrait, taken while waiting to collect his groceries</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_023/" rel="attachment wp-att-107800"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107800" title="SFE_900201_023" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?resize=600%2C411" alt="" width="600" height="411" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?resize=300%2C205&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An elderly man leaves the soup kitchen with his supplies</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright ©<a href="http://www.stuartfreedman.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> Stuart Freedman</a></p>
<p><em>You can read more about the Soup Kitchen here</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/12/harry-landis-actor/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Harry Landis, Actor</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/03/19/linda-carney-machinist/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Linda Carney, Machinist</a></em></p>
<p><em>You may also like to take a look at</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/01/17/stuart-freemans-pie-mash-eels/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stuart Freedman&#8217;s Pie &amp; Mash &amp; Eels</a></em></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206285</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>The Triumph Of Populations Bakery</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/01/19/the-triumph-of-populations-bakery/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/01/19/the-triumph-of-populations-bakery/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jan 2026 00:01:51 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205924</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[It is my pleasure to publish these edited excerpts from this piece by Julia Harrison, author of the fascinating literary blog THE SILVER LOCKET. I am proud that Julia is a graduate of my blog-writing course. There are only a few places available now on my course HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>It is my pleasure to publish these edited excerpts from this piece by<strong> Julia Harrison</strong>, author of the fascinating literary blog <a href="https://silverlocketblog.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">THE SILVER LOCKET</a>. I am proud that Julia is a graduate of my blog-writing course.</em></p>
<p><em>There are only a few places available now on my course <a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ</a> on 7th &amp; 8th February. Email spitalfieldslife@gmail.com to enrol.</em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205944" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C761&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="761" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?resize=237%2C300&amp;ssl=1 237w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>George&#8217;s Galette des Rois</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Spitalfields Life readers will already know about George Fuest’s <a href="https://www.instagram.com/populations.bakery/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Populations Bakery</a>. In the past, I have collected pastries from George’s home on Fournier St but the discovery that he was offering Galettes des Rois at his new bakery at <a href="https://cornershoplondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Corner Shop</a> in Arundel St was just too tempting. On Saturday, I made my way down to the Embankment, almost next door to Temple Place, to collect one.</p>
<p>I was met with apologies from one of George&#8217;s team of bakers, Huey. My galette was still in the oven: would I sit down, have a cup of coffee and taste a slice? I eagerly agreed and when there was a pause in the morning rush, Huey took a few moments to talk to me. He started by explaining the reason for the name ‘Populations Bakery’.</p>
<p>‘<em>George uses heritage wheat populations which are mainly ancient heritage grains, Populations-diverse wheat is where you have got lots of different species of wheat, meaning that the soil is in far better condition. If you go to these fields you can see it clearly because rather than weeds being around knee height the crop is up to waist height</em><em>: so much healthier for you but also for the soil and the landscape. </em></p>
<p><em>He uses a lot of stone-milled flour in his pastries: stone-milled flour keeps all the properties of the wheat as opposed to regular sifted milled flour. It means that the pastries have a darker colour because there are more sugars, more nutrients to caramelise, which means more flavour.’</em></p>
<p>Then Huey handed me a box containing a delicate pastry that would not look out of place in a patisserie in Paris.</p>
<p>‘<em>This is the perfect example of what he does: unbelievable technique as well as the provenance of the ingredients. The technique is cross lamination: if you are making a dough for pastries you laminate butter and then the dough. Once that is all done you slice it very thinly and then twist the segments ninety degrees, and then re-laminate it which means you have more texture and better flavour as well.</em></p>
<p><em>Then the clementine: you have candied clementine on top and then clementine creme inside with creme fraiche. The clementine comes from Vincente Todoli,  grown just outside Valencia which has a long history of citrus farms.  He moved away, became an art dealer, travelled the world, fell back in love with citrus and now has created this citrus sanctuary in Valencia. It has the biggest collection of citrus trees from around the world and they have all started cross breeding with each other and making new varieties.  It is like a museum, but for citrus.’</em></p>
<p>I look up Vincente Todoli and discover that he was not just any old art dealer, but one-time director of Tate Modern. His <a href="https://todolicitrusfundacio.org/en/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Todoli Citrus Fondacio</a> preserves rare citrus varieties for future generations.</p>
<p>When I remark on George achievement in scaling up his bakery from his garden shed in Fournier St, Huey says <em>‘I try and get the message through to as many guests as I can, such a variety of people come through these doors.</em>’ The fact that my galette was still in the oven turned out to be a moment of serendipity. I am indebted to Huey for taking the time to share the philosophy which brings producer and baker together in such fine style.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205945" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C674&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="674" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?resize=267%2C300&amp;ssl=1 267w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>George&#8217;s Clementine Creme Fraiche Croissant</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205946" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C536&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="536" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?resize=300%2C268&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Populations Bakery goods on display at Corner Shop</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205947" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C385&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="385" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?resize=300%2C193&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205937" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C900&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><a href="https://www.patricianiven.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patricia Niven</a>&#8216;s portrait of George Fuest from 2023 in Fournier St</p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/2023/12/01/george-fuest-baker/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>George Fuest, Baker</em></a></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">205924</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>The Smithfield Meat Auction</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/23/the-smithfield-meat-auction/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/23/the-smithfield-meat-auction/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Dec 2025 00:01:47 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205715</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[If you fancy a bracing walk, tickets are available for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on New Year&#8217;s Day. Click here to buy GIFT VOUCHERS for The Gentle Author&#8217;s Tours &#8211; the ideal present for friends and family &#8211; and I will send a handwritten greetings card to the recipients . &#160; Vegetarians look [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205692" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?w=512&amp;ssl=1 512w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;"><a style="color: #ff0000;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>If you fancy a bracing walk, tickets are available for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on New Year&#8217;s Day.</em></a></span></strong></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;"><strong><span style="color: #008000;"><a style="color: #008000;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>Click here to buy GIFT VOUCHERS for The Gentle Author&#8217;s Tours &#8211; the ideal present for friends and family &#8211; and I will send a handwritten greetings card to the recipients</em></a></span></strong></div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i>Vegetarians look away now, but carnivorous readers will be delighting to learn that the traditional Smithfield Christmas Eve meat auction takes place again this year, hosted by <a href="https://www.glawrencemeat.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">G Lawrence &amp; Co</a> on Grand Avenue in the Central Market from 10am. Below you can read my account of a visit there with the late photographer Colin O&#8217;Brien.</i></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6209-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-77487"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77487" title="_MG_6209" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?resize=600%2C923" alt="" width="600" height="923" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The carnivores of London converged upon Smithfield Market, as they do every year for the annual Christmas Eve auction. At ten in the morning, the rainy streets were almost empty yet, as I came through Smithfield, butchers in white overalls were wheeling precarious trolleys top-heavy with meat and fowls over to the site of the auction where an expectant crowd of around a hundred had gathered, anxiously clutching wads of banknotes in one hand and bags to carry off their prospective haul in the other.</p>
<p>Photographer Colin O&#8217;Brien met me there. He grew up half a mile away in Clerkenwell during the nineteen fifties and, although it was his first time at the auction, he remembered his father walking down to Smithfield to get a cheap turkey on Christmas Eve more than sixty years ago. Overhearing this reminiscence, a robust woman standing next to us in the crowd struck up a conversation as a means to relieve the growing tension before the start of the auction which is the highlight of the entire year for many of stalwarts that have been coming for decades.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;You can almost guarantee getting a turkey,&#8221;</em> she reassured us with the authority of experience, revealing she had been in attendance for fifteen successive years. Then, growing visibly excited as a thought came into her mind, <em>&#8220;Last year, I got thirty kilos of sirloin steak for free &#8211; I tossed for it!&#8221;</em>, she confided to us, turning unexpectedly flirtatious. Colin and I stood in silent wonder at her good fortune with meat.<em>&#8220;We start preparing in October by eating all the meat in the freezer,&#8221; </em>she explained, to clarify the situation. <em>&#8220;Last night we had steak,&#8221;</em> she continued, rubbing her hands in gleeful anticipation, <em>&#8220;and steak again tonight.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>Yet our acquaintance was terminated as quickly as it began when the caller appeared in a blood-stained white coat and red tie to introduce the auction. A stubby bullet-headed man, he raised his hands graciously to quell the crowd. <em>&#8220;This is a proper English tradition,&#8221; </em>he announced, <em>&#8220;it has been going on for the last five hundred years. And I&#8217;m going to make sure everybody goes away with something and I&#8217;m here to take your money.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>His words drew an appreciative roar from the crowd as dozens of eager hands were thrust in the air waving banknotes, indicative of the collective blood lust that gripped the assembly. Standing there in the midst of the excitement, I realised that the sound I could hear was an echo. It was a reverberation of the famously uproarious Bartholomew Fair which flourished upon this site from the twelfth century until it was suppressed for public disorder in 1855. Yesterday, the simple word <em>&#8220;Hush!&#8221;</em> from the caller was enough to suppress the mob as he queried, <em>&#8220;What are we going to start with?&#8221;</em></p>
<p>The answer to his question became manifest when several bright pink loins of pork appeared as if by magic in the hatch beside him, held by butchers beneath, and dancing jauntily above the heads of the delighted audience like hand puppets. These English loins of pork were soon dispatched into the crowd at twenty pounds each as the curtain warmer to the pantomime that was to come, followed by joints of beef for a tenner preceding the star attraction of day &#8211; the turkeys! &#8211; greeted with festive cheers by the hungry revellers. <em>&#8220;Mind your heads, turkeys coming over&#8230;&#8221; </em>warned the butcher as the turkeys in their red wrappers set out crowd-surfing to their grateful prospective owners as the cash was passed hand to hand back to the stand.</p>
<p>It would not be an understatement to say that mass hysteria had overtaken the crowd, yet there was another element to add to the chaos of the day. As the crowd had enlarged, it spilled over into the road with cars and vans weaving their through the overwrought gathering. <em>&#8220;I love coming for the adventure of it,&#8221; </em>declared one gentleman with hair awry, embracing a side of beef protectively as if it was the love of his life, <em>&#8220;Everyone helps one another out here. You pass the money over and there&#8217;s no pickpockets.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>After the turkeys came the geese, the loins of lamb, the ribs of beef, the pork bellies, the racks of lamb, the fillet steaks and the green gammon to complete the bill of fare. As the energy rose, butchers began to throw pieces of red meat into the crowd to be caught by their purchasers and it was surreal to watch legs of lamb and even suckling pigs go flying into the tumultuous mass of people. Finally, came tossing for meat where customers had the chance of getting their steaks for free if they guessed the toss correctly, and each winning guess was greeted with an exultant cheer because by then the butchers and the crowd were as one, fellow participants in a boisterous party game.</p>
<p>Just ninety minutes after it began, the auction wrapped up, leaving the crowd to consolidate their proud purchases, tucking the meat and fowls up snugly in suitcases and backpacks to keep them safe until they could be stowed away in the freezer at home. In the disorder, I saw piles of bloody meat stacked on the muddy pavement where people were tripping over them. Yet a sense of fulfilment prevailed, everyone had stocked up for another year &#8211; their carnivorous appetites satiated &#8211; and they were going home to eat meat.</p>
<p>As I walked back through the narrow City streets, I contemplated the spectacle of the morning. It resembled a Bacchanale or some ancient pagan celebration in which people  were liberated to pursue their animal instincts. But then I realised that my thinking was too complicated &#8211; it was Christmas I had witnessed.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6309-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-77477"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77477" title="_MG_6309" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_63091.jpg?resize=600%2C400" alt="" width="600" height="400" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_63091.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_63091.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
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<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6275/" rel="attachment wp-att-77454"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77454" title="_MG_6275" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6275.jpg?resize=600%2C910" alt="" width="600" height="910" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6275.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6275.jpg?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6213/" rel="attachment wp-att-77456"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77456" title="_MG_6213" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6213.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6213.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6213.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
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<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6238/" rel="attachment wp-att-77458"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77458" title="_MG_6238" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6238.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6238.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6238.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6278/" rel="attachment wp-att-77459"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77459" title="_MG_6278" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6278.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6278.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6278.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6279/" rel="attachment wp-att-77460"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77460" title="_MG_6279" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6279.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6279.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6279.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6282/" rel="attachment wp-att-77461"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77461" title="_MG_6282" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6282.jpg?resize=600%2C620" alt="" width="600" height="620" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6282.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6282.jpg?resize=290%2C300&amp;ssl=1 290w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6284/" rel="attachment wp-att-77462"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77462" title="_MG_6284" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6284.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6284.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6284.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6291/" rel="attachment wp-att-77463"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77463" title="_MG_6291" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6291.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6291.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6291.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6295/" rel="attachment wp-att-77465"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77465" title="_MG_6295" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6295.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6295.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6295.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6331/" rel="attachment wp-att-77466"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77466" title="_MG_6331" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6331.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6331.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6331.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6271-3/" rel="attachment wp-att-77488"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77488" title="_MG_6271" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62712.jpg?resize=600%2C822" alt="" width="600" height="822" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62712.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62712.jpg?resize=218%2C300&amp;ssl=1 218w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6317/" rel="attachment wp-att-77468"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77468" title="_MG_6317" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6317.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6317.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6317.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6348/" rel="attachment wp-att-77470"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77470" title="_MG_6348" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6348.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6348.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6348.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6378/" rel="attachment wp-att-77471"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77471" title="_MG_6378" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6378.jpg?resize=600%2C900" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6378.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6378.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6321/" rel="attachment wp-att-77472"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77472" title="_MG_6321" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6321.jpg?resize=600%2C400" alt="" width="600" height="400" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6321.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_6321.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © Estate of Colin O&#8217;Brien</p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>You might also like to read about</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/12/09/joan-brown-secretary-at-smithfield-market/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Joan Brown, Secretary at Smithfield Market</a></em></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">205715</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>Bug Woman London</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/10/bug-woman-london-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/10/bug-woman-london-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2025 00:01:25 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Human Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Plant Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205525</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[&#160; I am delighted to publish these extracts from BUG WOMAN LONDON – a graduate of my blog writing course who has been publishing posts online for over ten years now. The author set out to explore our relationship with the natural world in the urban environment, yet her subject matter has expanded in all [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205526" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?w=486&amp;ssl=1 486w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">I am delighted to publish these extracts from <a style="color: #000080;" href="https://bugwomanlondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">BUG WOMAN LONDON</a> – a graduate of my blog writing course who has been publishing posts online for over ten years now. The author set out to explore our relationship with the natural world in the urban environment, yet her subject matter has expanded in all kinds of ways. <em><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://bugwomanlondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Follow BUG WOMAN LONDON, because a community is more than just people</a></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">I am now taking bookings for the next writing course, <strong><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ</a></strong> on February 7th &amp; 8th. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">Come to Spitalfields and spend a weekend with me in an eighteenth century weaver’s house in Fournier St, enjoy delicious lunches and eat cakes baked to historic recipes, and learn how to write your own blog. <em><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Click here for details</a></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;"><em>If you are graduate of my course and you would like me to feature your blog, please drop me a line.</em></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205535" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=600%2C397&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="397" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=600%2C397&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=300%2C199&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?w=625&amp;ssl=1 625w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
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<article id="post-72835" class="post-72835 post type-post status-publish format-standard hentry category-london-people category-london-plants">
<div class="entry-content">
<p><strong>UPON THE NATURE OF BRUSSEL SPROUTS</strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>After my mother died, I found her hairbrush with some of her long, silver hair still in it and I found myself thinking ‘maybe someone could clone Mum from the DNA in her hair’. I know that this is ridiculous but the thought was there. And I have her hairbrush, just in case.</p>
<p>More helpful was what happened to me earlier that morning. I was getting ready to go out and telling my husband that I probably would not write a blog this week because, after all, my mother had just died, and everyone would understand. Then I heard her voice in my head, as clearly as if she was standing next to me. ‘Don’t you dare not do the blog! Tell them about the Brussels sprouts’.</p>
<p>And so, here is my take on that most divisive of vegetables the Brussels sprout, courtesy of my mother.  Every Christmas we had Brussels sprouts with our turkey. I quite liked those sulphurous, squidgy little crucifers, and Dad positively loved them. They were usually a little watery and yellow, and I maintained that this was because Mum insisted on making a cross in the bottom of each one which allowed the cooking water to penetrate right into the heart of the vegetable. I declared that this was not necessary but somehow, even when I hosted Christmas in my own house, Mum managed to get hold of the Brussels and a sharp knife and the rest was history.</p>
<p>In fact last year, when we had Christmas in Dorset because Mum and Dad were getting over a chest infection and were too sick to travel, the only thing that Mum had the energy to do was to sabotage the Brussels sprouts. By this point I was only too happy to let Mum have her way.</p>
<p>When we eat sprouts, we are actually eating the buds of the plant. The plant is, of course, a member of the cabbage family (<em>Brassicaceae</em>) which accounts for those hints of sulphur if the sprouts are overcooked. It probably originally came from the Mediterranean and forerunners of our sprouts may well have been grown in Ancient Rome. The plant was known in Northern Europe from about the fifth century and was said to have been grown in Belgium from about the thirteenth century, hence the name.</p>
<p>Each stalk can bear a harvest of up to 3lbs of sprouts, which can be picked all at the same time or over a period of weeks. The sprouts are normally ready for harvesting between ninety and one hundred and eighty days after planting, and are considered sweetest after a frost. They are a traditional winter vegetable, though I would be willing to bet that a lot of people have them with their Christmas dinner and at no other time. Personally, my winter crucifer of choice would be a fine green cabbage but that is an absolute no-no in our household.</p>
<p>There are some new varieties of Brussels sprout about, including a rather neat looking red and green flouncy variety that cropped up last year, and red Brussel sprouts have been around for a while . The red ones are a hybrid between red cabbage and the traditional Brussels sprout. Most eaten in this country are home grown, with the ones in my local grocer coming from Lincolnshire. Sprouts need temperatures no higher than seventy-five degrees and are also fairly thirsty plants, so the climate in East Anglia is ideal. Like all members of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts are very good for you, packed full of vitamins and minerals and fibre.</p>
<p>Of course, the Brussels sprout lends itself to all sorts of other shenanigans not related to its health-giving  properties. In 2014, adventurer Stuart Kettell pushed a Brussels sprout all the way to the top of Mount Snowdon with his nose to raise money for MacMillan Cancer Support. He needed twenty-two sprouts, it took him four days, and he lost all the skin on his knees but he raised £5000. He had previously practiced by pushing a Brussels sprout around his garden and chose large sprouts so that they would not get stuck in any crevices on Snowdon. Apparently he had previously raised money by walking every street in Coventry on stilts and by running in a giant hamster wheel. Linus Urbanec from Sweden holds the world Brussels sprout consumption record, eating thirty-one sprouts in a minute in November 2008. I assume they were cooked.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205536" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=600%2C450&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="450" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=600%2C450&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?w=625&amp;ssl=1 625w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">205525</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>William Oglethorpe, Cheesemaker</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/08/william-oglethorpe-cheesemaker-xxxx/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/08/william-oglethorpe-cheesemaker-xxxx/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 08 Dec 2025 00:01:35 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Human Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205504</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[CLICK HERE TO BUY GIFT VOUCHERS I will send a personal, handwritten Christmas card hand to the lucky recipient to inform them of their good fortune. Booking is already open for 2026 tours. . William Oglethorpe, Cheese Maker of Bermondsey &#160; Everyone knows Cheddar, Stilton, Wensleydale and Caerphilly, but there is an unexpected new location [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-195576" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?resize=600%2C421&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="421" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?resize=600%2C421&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?resize=300%2C211&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?resize=768%2C539&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?resize=1536%2C1078&amp;ssl=1 1536w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/DEST3332_RT.jpg?w=2000&amp;ssl=1 2000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><span style="color: #0000ff;"><em><a style="color: #0000ff;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/the-tour" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">CLICK HERE TO BUY GIFT VOUCHERS </a></em></span>I will send a personal, handwritten Christmas card hand to the lucky recipient to inform them of their good fortune. Booking is already open for 2026 tours.</p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140074" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0093" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0093.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0093.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0093.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>William Oglethorpe, Cheese Maker of Bermondsey</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Everyone knows Cheddar, Stilton, Wensleydale and Caerphilly, but there is an unexpected new location on the cheese map of Great Britain. It is Bermondsey and the man responsible is William Oglethorpe &#8211; seen here bearing his curd cutter as a proud symbol of his domain, like a medieval king wielding a mace of divine authority.</p>
<p>When photographer <a href="http://www.tombunning.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Bunning</a> &amp; I went along to <a href="http://www.kappacasein.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Kappacasein Dairy</a> under the railway arches beneath the main line out of London Bridge in the early morning to investigate this astonishing phenomenon, we entered the humid warmth of the dairy in eager anticipation and encountered an expectant line of empty milk churns.</p>
<p>Already Bill had been awake since quarter to four. He had woken in Streatham then driven to Chiddingstone in Kent and collected six hundred litres of milk. Beyond us, in a separate room with a red floor and a large glass window sat a hundred-year-old copper vat containing that morning&#8217;s delivery of milk, which was still warm. Bill with his fellow cheesemakers Jem and Agustin, dressed all in white, worked purposefully in this chamber, officiating like priests over the holy process of conjuring cheese into existence. I stood mesmerised by the sight of the pale buttery liquid swirling against the gleaming copper as Bill employed his curd cutter, manoeuvring it through the milk as you might turn an oar in a river.</p>
<p>Taking a narrow flexible strip of metal, he wrapped a cloth around it so that the rest extended behind like a flag. Holding each end of the strip and grasping the corners of the cloth, Bill leaned over the vat plunging his arms deep down into the whey. When he lifted the cloth again, Agustin reached over with practised ease to take two corners of the cloth as Bill removed the sliver of metal and &#8211; hey presto! &#8211; they were holding a bundle of cheese, dredged from the mysterious depth of the vat. It was as spellbinding as any piece of magic I have ever seen.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;Cheesemaking is easy, it&#8217;s life that is hard,&#8221;</em> Bill admitted to me with a disarming grin, when I joined the cheesemakers for their breakfast at a long table and he revealed the long journey he had travelled to arrive in Bermondsey. <em>&#8220;I grew up in Zambia,&#8221;</em> he explained,<em> &#8220;And one day a Swiss missionary came to see my father and asked if I&#8217;d like to go to agricultural school in Switzerland.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><em>&#8220;I earned a certificate of competence,&#8221;</em> he added proudly, assuring me with a wink, <em>&#8220;I&#8217;m a qualified peasant.&#8221; </em>Bill learnt to make cheese while working on a farm in Provence with a friend from agricultural college. <em>&#8220;It was simply a way to sell all the milk from the goats, we made a cheese the same way the other farmers did,&#8221; </em>he informed me, <em>&#8220;We didn&#8217;t know what we were doing.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>Bill took me through to the next railway arch where his cheeses are stored while they mature for up to a year. He cast his eyes lovingly over the neat flat cylinders each impressed with word &#8216;Bermondsey&#8217; on the side. Every Wednesday, the cheeses are attended to. According to their type, they are either washed or stroked, to spread the mould evenly, and they are all turned before being left to slumber in the chilly darkness for another week.</p>
<p>It was while working for Neal&#8217;s Yard Dairy that Bill decided to set up on his own as cheese maker. Today, Kappacasein is one of handful of newly-established dairies in London producing distinctive cheeses and bypassing the chain of mass production and supermarkets to distribute on their own terms and sell direct to customers. Yet Bill chooses to be self-deprecating in his explanation of why he is making cheese in London. <em>&#8220;It&#8217;s just because I can&#8217;t buy a farm,&#8221;</em> he claims, shrugging in enactment of his role of the peasant in exile, cast out from the rural into the urban environment.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;I&#8217;m interested in transformation,&#8221; </em>Bill confided to me, turning serious as he reached his hand gently down into the vat and lifted up a handful of curds, squeezing out the whey. These would form the second cheese to come from the vat that morning, a ricotta. All across the surface, nodules of cheese were forming, coming into existence as if from primordial matter. <em>&#8220;I don&#8217;t want to interfere,&#8221;</em> Bill continued, thinking out loud and growing philosophical as he became absorbed in observing the cheese form,<em> &#8220;Nature&#8217;s that much more complicated &#8211; if you let it do its own thing that&#8217;s much interesting to me than trying to impose anything. It&#8217;s about finding an equilibrium with Nature.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>Let me confess I had an ulterior motive for being there. One day, I ate a slice of Bill&#8217;s Bermondsey cheese and became hooked. It was a flavour that was tangy and complex. One piece was not enough for me. Two pieces were not enough for me. Eventually, I had to seek the source of this wonder and there it was in front of me at last &#8211; the Holy Grail of London cheese in Bermondsey.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140075" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0053" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0053.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0053.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0053.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Cutting the curd</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140076" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0142" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0142.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0142.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0142.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140077" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0059" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0059.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0059.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0059.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The curds</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140078" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0302" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0302.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0302.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0302.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Squeezing the curds</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140079" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0436" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0436.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0436.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0436.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Scooping out the cheese</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140080" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0407" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0407.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0407.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0407.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140081" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0431" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0431.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0431.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0431.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140082" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0450" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0450.jpg?resize=600%2C429" alt="" width="600" height="429" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0450.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0450.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140084" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0067" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0067.jpg?resize=600%2C429" alt="" width="600" height="429" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0067.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0067.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The second batch of cheese from the whey is ricotta</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140085" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0062" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0062.jpg?resize=600%2C429" alt="" width="600" height="429" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0062.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0062.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140086" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0477" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0477.jpg?resize=600%2C429" alt="" width="600" height="429" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0477.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0477.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140087" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0551" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0551.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0551.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0551.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140089" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0749" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0749.jpg?resize=600%2C429" alt="" width="600" height="429" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0749.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0749.jpg?resize=300%2C214&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Jem Kast, Cheese Maker</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140088" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0685" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0685.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0685.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0685.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Ana Rojas, Yoghurt Maker</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140090" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0702" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0702.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0702.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0702.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Agustin Cobo, Cheese Maker</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140091" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0771" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0771.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0771.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0771.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140092" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0636" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0636.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0636.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0636.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The story of cheese</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140093" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0123" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0123.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0123.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0123.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-140094" title="The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0733" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0733.jpg?resize=600%2C840" alt="" width="600" height="840" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0733.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/The_Gentle_Author_Kappacasein_271015_0733.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">William Oglethorpe, Cheese Maker of Bermondsey</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © <a href="http://www.tombunning.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Tom Bunning</a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><strong>Visit <a href="http://www.kappacasein.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">KAPPACASEIN DAIRY</a>, 1 Voyager Industrial Estate, Bermondsey, SE16 4RP</strong></p>
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		<title>Dennis &#038; Christine Reeve, Walnut Farmers</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/03/dennis-christine-reeve-walnut-farmers-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/03/dennis-christine-reeve-walnut-farmers-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 03 Dec 2025 00:01:13 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Human Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205445</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[CLICK HERE TO BOOK &#160; The Romans introduced walnut trees into this country and they have been cultivated here ever since, but you would have to go a long way these days to find anyone farming walnuts. Contributing Photographer Sarah Ainslie &#38; I travelled to the tiny village of West Row in East Anglia &#8211; [&#8230;]]]></description>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152680" title="DSC_7102" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7102.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7102.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7102.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The Romans introduced walnut trees into this country and they have been cultivated here ever since, but you would have to go a long way these days to find anyone farming walnuts. Contributing Photographer <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sarah Ainslie</a> &amp; I travelled to the tiny village of West Row in East Anglia &#8211; where walnuts have been grown as long as anyone can remember &#8211; to meet Dennis &amp; Christine Reeve, the last walnut farmers in their neck of the woods.</p>
<p>Dennis&#8217; grandfather Frank planted the trees a century ago which were passed into the care of his father Cecil, who supplemented the grove of around thirty, that today are managed by Dennis and his wife Christine &#8211; who originates from the next village and married into the walnut dynasty. Dennis has only planted one walnut tree himself, to commemorate the hundredth birthday of his mother Maggie Reeve who subsequently lived to one hundred and five, offering a shining example of the benefits to longevity which may be obtained by eating copious amounts of walnuts.</p>
<p>I was curious to understand the job of a walnut farmer beyond planting the trees and Dennis was candid in his admission that it was a two-months-a-year occupation. &#8220;You just wait until they fall off the trees and then go out and pick &#8217;em up,&#8221; he confessed to me with a chuckle of alacrity that concealed three generations of experience in cultivating walnuts.</p>
<p>Perhaps no-one alive possesses greater eloquence upon the subject of walnuts than Dennis Reeve? He loves walnuts &#8211; as a delicacy, as a source of income and as a phenomenon &#8211; and he can tell you which of his thirty trees a walnut came from by its taste alone. He is in thrall to the mystery of this enigmatic species that originates far from these shores. Even after all these years, Dennis cannot explain why some trees give double walnuts when others give none, or why particular trees night be loaded one season and not the next. &#8220;There&#8217;s one tree that&#8217;s smaller than the rest yet always produces a lot of nuts while there&#8217;s nothing on the trees around it,&#8221; he confessed, his brow furrowed with incomprehension.</p>
<p>Yet these insoluble enigmas make the walnut compelling to Dennis. The possibility of &#8216;a sharp frost at the wrong time of the year&#8217; is the enemy of the walnut but Dennis has an answer to this. &#8220;They say &#8216;keep your grass long in the orchard and the frost won&#8217;t affect them,'&#8221; he admitted to me, raising a sly finger to his nose in confidence.</p>
<p>&#8220;Walnuts are the last tree to come into leaf in the orchard, in Maytime, and you start to harvest them at the end of the September right through to November. I used to climb into the tree with a bamboo pole about twenty foot long and I thrashed them because walnuts are sold by weight and the longer you leave them the more they dry out. We call it &#8216;brushing.&#8217; Nowadays, I am a bit long in the tooth to get up into the trees, so I have to wait until the walnuts drop and I walk round every day from the end of September picking them up. They get dirty when they fall on the ground so I put them in my old tin bath and clean them up with water and a broom, and then I put them on a run to dry.&#8221;</p>
<p>You would be mistaken if you assumed the life of a walnut farmer was one of rural obscurity, celebrity has intruded into Dennis &amp; Christine&#8217;s existence with requests to supply their produce to the great and the good. &#8220;One year in the seventies, my father had a call in the summer from a salesman in London saying they needed about eight pounds of walnuts urgently,&#8221; Dennis revealed to me, arching his brows to illustrate the seriousness of the request as a matter of national importance.</p>
<p>&#8220;&#8216;I don&#8217;t care how you get them here, but we&#8217;ve got to have them,&#8217; they said. They were for Buckingham Palace, but the walnuts on the tree were still green with the green husk around them. We told them, &#8216;They&#8217;re not ready yet and there&#8217;s nothing we can do about it.&#8217; They said, &#8216;We don&#8217;t care, we&#8217;ve got to have them.&#8217; Now we kept pigs at the time and there was a muck dump where we put all the waste, so we put the walnuts in the muck dump for them to heat, just like in a cooker. After about two days the husks started to crack, and that&#8217;s how we ripened the nuts for the Queen, in our muck dump!'&#8221;</p>
<p>Christine recounted a comparable story about how their walnuts went to Westminster. &#8220;There was a dinner in the Houses of Parliament to celebrate British produce and our walnuts were served,&#8221; she explained to me with a thin smile, &#8220;and they sent us the printed menu which listed the provenance of all the ingredients, including &#8216;walnuts from Norfolk,&#8217; which was a bit of a let down &#8211; because we are in Suffolk here.&#8221; Yet I did not feel Christine was unduly troubled by this careless error. Both stories served to confirm the delight that she and Dennis share &#8211; of living at the centre of their own world secluded from the urban madness, in a house they built on land bought by Dennis&#8217; grandfather and surrounded by their beloved walnut trees.</p>
<p>Too few are aware of the special qualities of English walnuts, especially the distinctive flavour of wet walnuts early in the season when they possess an appealing sharpness that complements cheese well. &#8220;Sometimes people want them earlier before they are ripe if they are going to pickle them,&#8221; Dennis told me, &#8220;if you can stick a match right through from one side to the other, that is the ideal time to pickle walnuts.&#8221; Over the years, those who know about walnuts have sought out Dennis &amp; Christine for their produce. &#8220;We have a regular customer in Kent who found our nuts in Harrods,&#8221; Christine informed me proudly, &#8220;she rang us and now we send her our wet walnuts every year. She peels them and eats them with a glass of sherry and that&#8217;s the highlight of her Christmas.&#8221;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152681" title="DSC_7084" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7084.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7084.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7084.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The walnut grove</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152682" title="_DSC7360" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC7360.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC7360.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC7360.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Dennis &amp; Christine Reeve</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152683" title="DSC_7120" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7120.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7120.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7120.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Dennis with the tin bath and brush that he uses for washing his walnuts</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152684" title="DSC_7133" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7133.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7133.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7133.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Dennis with his scoop for walnuts</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152685" title="DSC_7186" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7186.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7186.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7186.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Dennis outside his father&#8217;s cottage</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-152686" title="DSC_7105" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7105.jpg?resize=600%2C899" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7105.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/DSC_7105.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Dennis Reeve, third generation walnut farmer</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sarah Ainslie</a></p>
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		<title>The Bread, Cake &#038; Biscuit Walk</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/10/21/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/10/21/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Oct 2025 23:01:34 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Past Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Street Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=204817</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS FOR THIS SATURDAY &#160; This biscuit was sent home in the mail during World War I As regular readers will already know, I have a passion for all the good things that come from the bakery. So I decided to take advantage of a fine afternoon recently to take [&#8230;]]]></description>
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<p><span style="color: #ff0000;"><strong><a style="color: #ff0000;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener">CLICK HERE TO BOOK YOUR TICKETS FOR THIS SATURDAY</a></strong></span></p>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/sanyo-digital-camera-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-27842"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27842" title="SANYO DIGITAL CAMERA" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/SANY05491.jpg?resize=600%2C479" alt="" width="600" height="479" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/SANY05491.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/SANY05491.jpg?resize=300%2C239&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>This biscuit was sent home in the mail during World War I</em></p>
<p>As regular readers will already know, I have a passion for all the good things that come from the bakery. So I decided to take advantage of a fine afternoon recently to take a walk through the City of London in search of some historic bakery products to feed my obsession, and thereby extend my appreciation of the poetry and significance of this sometimes undervalued area of human endeavour.</p>
<p>Leaving Spitalfields, I turned left and walked straight down Bishopsgate to the river, passing Pudding Lane where the Fire of London started at the King&#8217;s Bakery, reminding me that a bakery was instrumental in the very creation of the City we know today.</p>
<p>My destination was the noble church of St Magnus the Martyr, which boasts London&#8217;s stalest loaves of bread. Stored upon high shelves beyond the reach of vermin, beside the West door, these loaves were once placed here each Saturday for the sustenance of the poor and distributed after the service on Sunday morning. Although in the forgiving gloom of the porch it is not immediately apparent, these particular specimens have been there so many years they are now mere emblems of this bygone charitable endeavour. Surpassing any conceivable shelf life, these crusty bloomers are consumed by mould and covered with a thick layer of dust &#8211; indigestible in reality, they are metaphors of God&#8217;s bounty that would cause any shortsighted, light-fingered passing hobo to gag.</p>
<p>Close by in this appealingly shadowy incense-filled Wren church which was once upon the approach to London Bridge, are the tall black boards tabulating the donors who gave their legacies for bread throughout the centuries, commencing in 1674 with Owen Waller. If you are a connoisseur of the melancholy and the forgotten, this a good place to come on a mid-week afternoon to linger and admire the shrine of St Magnus with his fearsome horned helmet and fully rigged model sailing ship &#8211; once you have inspected the bread, of course.</p>
<p>I walked West along the river until I came to St Bride&#8217;s Church off Fleet St, as the next destination on my bakery products tour. Another Wren church, this possesses a tiered spire that became the inspiration for the universally familiar wedding cake design in the eighteenth century, after Fleet St baker William Rich created a three-tiered cake based upon the great architect&#8217;s design, for his daughter&#8217;s marriage. Dedicated today to printers and those who work in the former print trades, this is a church of manifold wonders including the pavement of Roman London in the crypt, an iron anti-resurrectionist coffin of 1820 &#8211; and most touching of all, an altar dedicated to journalists killed recently whilst pursuing their work in dangerous places around the globe.</p>
<p>From here, I walked up to St John&#8217;s Gate where a biscuit is preserved that was sent home from the trenches in World War I by Henry Charles Barefield. Surrounded by the priceless treasures of the Knights of St John magnificently displayed in the new museum, this old dry biscuit  has become an object of universal fascination both for its longevity and its ability to survive the rigours of the mail. Even the Queen wanted to know why the owner had sent his biscuit home in the post, when she came to open the museum. But no-one knows for sure, and this enigma is the source of the power of this surreal biscuit.</p>
<p>Pamela Willis, curator of the collection, speculates it was a comment on the quality of the rations &#8211; <em>&#8220;Our biscuits are so hard we can send them home in the mail!&#8221; </em>Yet while I credit Pamela&#8217;s notion, I find the biscuit both humorous and defiant, and I have my own theory of a different nuance. In the midst of the carnage of the Somme, Henry Barefield was lost for words &#8211; so he sent a biscuit home in the mail to prove he was still alive and had not lost his sense of humour either.</p>
<p>We do not know if he sent it to his mother or his wife, but I think we can be assured that it was an emotional moment for Mrs Barefield when the biscuit came through her letterbox &#8211; to my mind, this an heroic biscuit, a triumphant symbol of the human spirit, that manifests the comfort of modest necessity in the face of the horror of war.</p>
<p>I had a memorable afternoon filled with thoughts of bread, cake and biscuits, and their potential meanings and histories which span all areas of human experience. And unsurprisingly, as I came back through Spitalfields, I found that my walk had left me more than a little hungry. After several hours contemplating baked goods, it was only natural that I should seek out a cake for my tea, and in St John Bread &amp; Wine, to my delight, there was one fresh Eccles Cake left on the plate waiting for me to carry it away.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/img_9700/" rel="attachment wp-att-27750"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27750" title="IMG_9700" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9700.jpg?resize=600%2C733" alt="" width="600" height="733" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9700.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9700.jpg?resize=245%2C300&amp;ssl=1 245w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Loaves of bread at St Magnus the Martyr</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/img_9655/" rel="attachment wp-att-27749"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27749" title="IMG_9655" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9655.jpg?resize=600%2C445" alt="" width="600" height="445" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9655.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9655.jpg?resize=300%2C222&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Is this London&#8217;s stalest loaf?</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/img_9609/" rel="attachment wp-att-27746"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27746" title="IMG_9609" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9609.jpg?resize=600%2C749" alt="" width="600" height="749" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9609.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9609.jpg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The spire of Wren&#8217;s church of St Bride&#8217;s which was the inspiration for the tiered design of the wedding cake first baked by Fleet St baker William Rich in the eighteenth century</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/img_9627-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-27778"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27778" title="IMG_9627" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_96271.jpg?resize=600%2C484" alt="" width="600" height="484" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_96271.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_96271.jpg?resize=300%2C242&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The biscuit in the museum in Clerkenwell</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/barefield/" rel="attachment wp-att-27777"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27777" title="barefield" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/barefield.jpg?resize=600%2C1005" alt="" width="600" height="1005" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/barefield.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/barefield.jpg?resize=179%2C300&amp;ssl=1 179w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The inscrutable Henry Charles Barefield of Tunbridge Wells who sent his biscuit home in the mail during World War I</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/30/the-bread-cake-biscuit-walk/img_9737/" rel="attachment wp-att-27751"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-27751" title="IMG_9737" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9737.jpg?resize=600%2C450" alt="" width="600" height="450" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9737.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_9737.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The freshly baked Eccles Cake that I ate for my tea</p>
<p><em>You may like to read these other bakery related stories</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2016/01/22/melis-marziano-pizza-chef/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>Melis Marzanio, Pizza Chef</em></a></p>
<p><em><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/12/31/night-at-the-brick-lane-beigel-bakery/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Night at Brick Lane Beigel Bakery</a></em></em></p>
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