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	<title>Culinary Life &#8211; Spitalfields Life</title>
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		<title>Thomas Newington&#8217;s Recipes</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/25/thomas-newingtons-recipes-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/25/thomas-newingtons-recipes-iii/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 24 Apr 2026 23:01:32 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Past Life]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[In the first week of our crowdfund, 56 people have contributed £4,945 Click here to support publication of Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK &#160; Today I thought you might take inspiration from these recipes &#8211; culinary and medicinal &#8211; from Thomas Newington&#8216;s book that he wrote in 1715 while in domestic service in Brighton, illustrated [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3><img data-recalc-dims="1" fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-206642" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="652" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=276%2C300&amp;ssl=1 276w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=768%2C835&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?w=1394&amp;ssl=1 1394w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></h3>
<p>In the first week of our crowdfund, 56 people have contributed £4,945</p>
<p><em><strong><a href="https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/sarah-ainslies-women-at-work-book" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Click here to support publication of Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK</a></strong></em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Today I thought you might take inspiration from these recipes &#8211; culinary and medicinal &#8211; from <strong>Thomas Newington</strong>&#8216;s book that he wrote in 1715 while in domestic service in Brighton, illustrated with wood engravings by <strong>Reynolds Stone</strong>. Do let me know how you get on.</em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150103" title="butler_0001" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_00011.jpg?resize=600%2C403" alt="" width="600" height="403" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_00011.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_00011.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>Madam</strong>, Perhaps you may wonder to see your Receipts thus increased in Bulk and Number, Especily when you consider that they come from me who cannot make pretentions to things of thy nature, but haveing in my hands some Excelent Manuscripts of Phisick, Cookery, Preserves &amp;c which were the Palladium of Many Noble Familyes, I did imagine that by blending them together, which in themselves were so choice and valuable, they woud magnifie and Illustrate each other.</p>
<p><strong>Madam</strong>, I might well fear lest these rude and unpolished lines should offend you but that I hope your goodness will rather smile at the faults commited than censure them.</p>
<p>However I desire your Ladyships pardon for presenting things so unworthy to your View and except the goodwill of him who in all Duty is bound to be.</p>
<p>Your Ladyships Most Humble &amp; most Obeiant Sarvant,</p>
<p><strong>Thomas Newington</strong></p>
<p>Brighthelmstone, May the 20: 1719</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150104" title="butler_0002" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0002.jpg?resize=600%2C491" alt="" width="600" height="491" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0002.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0002.jpg?resize=300%2C245&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>HOW TO KILL &amp; ROAST A PIGG</strong></p>
<p>Take your Pigg and hold the head down in a Payle of cold Watter untill strangeled, then hang him up buy the heals and fley him, then open him, then chine him down the back as you doe a porker first cuting of his head, then cut him in fower quarters, then lard two of the quarters with lemon peele and other two with tops of Time, then spit and roast them. The head requeares more roasting than the braines with a little Sage and grave for sauce.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150105" title="butler_0003" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0003.jpg?resize=600%2C216" alt="" width="600" height="216" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0003.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0003.jpg?resize=300%2C108&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>TO SPITCHCOCK EELS</strong></p>
<p>Pull of the skins to the taile, then strow on them a little cloves, Mace, peper &amp; salt, a little time and savory and parsly shred very fine. Then draw up the skinn and turn them up in the shape of S, and some round. Run a skure through them, then frye or boyle them and lay them round other fish.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150106" title="butler_0004" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0004.jpg?resize=600%2C670" alt="" width="600" height="670" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0004.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0004.jpg?resize=268%2C300&amp;ssl=1 268w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>TO PRESERVE GREENE WALNUTS</strong></p>
<p>Take your wallnuts when they be so young that a pin will go through them, then set them on fire and let them boyle in fair Watter till the bitterness go out, shifting it once or twice. Then take to every pound of Walnuts a pound of lofe sugar, half a pint of watter, boyleing till they be tender in this surrupe. Then let them stand to soak in this surrupe 3 or 4 dayes, then take them out and prick 3 or 4 holes in each sticking half a Clove and a little Cynament in each, but if you fear it will be to strong of the spice omit some of them. Then set on your surrupe and skim it, adding a pound more of sugar. Boyle them therein to thick syrrupe and let them stand for a fortnight or three Weekes, then boyle them up and add more sugar if you see Occasion. They are Cordial to take in a Morning, good for the stomach and Loosen the Body.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150107" title="butler_0005" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0005.jpg?resize=600%2C440" alt="" width="600" height="440" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0005.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0005.jpg?resize=300%2C220&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>A REMEDY FOR THE PLAGUE</strong></p>
<p>Among the excelent and aproved medecines for the Pestilence, there is none worthy and avaylable when the sore appeareth. Then take a Cock Pullet and pluck of the fethers of the taile or hinderpart till the rump be bare, then hold the bare of the said Pullet to the sore and the pullet will gape and labour for life and in the end he will dye. Then take another Pullet and doe the like and so another as the Pullets do dye, for when the Poyson is Drawn out the last Pullet that is offered therto will live. The sore Presently is assuaged and the party recovereth.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150109" title="butler_0006" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0006.jpg?resize=600%2C276" alt="" width="600" height="276" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0006.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0006.jpg?resize=300%2C138&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>A SURRUP FOR THE PRESERVATION OF LONG LIFE RECOMMENDD TO THE RIGHT HONBLE MARY COUNTESS OF FEVERSHAM BY DR PETER DUMOULIN OF CANTERBURY JUNE YE 2, 1682</strong></p>
<p>An Eminent Officer in the great Army with the Emperour Charles the 5th sent into Barbary had his quarters there Assigned him in an Old Gentlemans House with whom by mutall offices of Humanity he soone contracted a singular Freindship. Seeing him looke very Old yet very Fresh and Vigourous he asked him how old he was &#8211; he answerd he was 132 years old, that till Sixty Yeares of Age he had been a good Fellow takeing little care of his health but that then he had begun to take a spoonfull of surrup every morning fasting, which ever since has keept him in health. Being Desired to impart that receipt to his Guest he freely granted it and the Officer being returned to his Cuntry made use of that surrup and with it Preserved himself and many more, yet kept the Receipt secret till haveing attained by this surrupe ninety two years of Age, he made a scruple to keep it secret any longer and publisht for the Common good.</p>
<p>Take of the juices of mercurial eight pounds, of the juice of Burridg two pounds, of the juice of Buglosse two pounds. Mingle these with twelve pounds of clarrified Honey, the whitest you can gett, let them boyle together aboyling and paas them through a Hypocras Bag of new flannell. Infuse in three pints of White Wine, a quarter of a pound Gentian Root and half a pound of Irish root or blew Flower de Lis. Let them be infused twenty fower houers then straind without squeezing, put the liquor to that of the herbs and Hony, boyle them well together to constistence of a surrup. You must order the matter so that one thing stays not for the other but that all be ready together. A spoonfull of this surrup is to be taken every morning Fasting.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150108" title="butler_0007" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0007.jpg?resize=600%2C365" alt="" width="600" height="365" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0007.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0007.jpg?resize=300%2C182&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>TO MAKE SURRUPE OF CLOVE GILY FLOWERS</strong></p>
<p>Take a pound of the flowers when they are cleane cut from their white bottom and beat them into a stone Mortar till they be very fine all. Then haveing Fair watter very well boyled, take a quart of it boyling hott and pour it to them in the Mortar, then cover it close and let it stand all night, and the next dat streyne them out and to every pint of this Liquor take a pound and a half of Duble Refine Lofe Sugar beaten, then put your sugar and set it on the fire and boyle it and, when it is clean scimed, take it of and pour it into a silver or Earthen Bason and so let it stand uncovered till the next day, then glass it up and stop it close and set it not but where it may stand coole &amp; it will keep the better.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-150126" title="butler_0008" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0008.jpg?resize=600%2C502" alt="" width="600" height="502" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0008.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/butler_0008.jpg?resize=300%2C251&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong>A SNAYLE WATTER IS GOOD IN A CONSUMPTION OR JAUNDICE TO CLEAR THE SKIN OR REVIVE YE SPIRRITS</strong></p>
<p>Take a Peck of Garden Snayles in their Shells. Gather them as near as you can out of lavender or Rosemary and not in trees or grass. Wash them in a Tubb three times in Beere, then make your Chimney very clean and power out a bushall of charcole and, when they are well kindled, make a great hole with a fire shovell and put in your Snayles and Put in some of your cleane burnt coals among them and let roast till they leave makeing a noise. Then you must take them forth with a knife and clean them with a cleane Cloathpick and wipe away the coales and green froth that will be upon them. Then beat them in a mortar shells and all.</p>
<p>Take also a Quart of Earthworms, slitt and scower them with salt, then wash them in whitewine till you have taken away all the filth from them, and put them into a stone Mortar and beat them to peices. Then take a sweet, clean Iron pott which you will sett your limbeck on, then take 2 Ms. of Angellica and lay it in the bottome of your Pott and 2 Ms. of Sallendine, on the top of that putt in 2 quarts of Rosemary Flowers, Bearsfoot, Egrimony, the redest Dock roots you can get, the barbery bark, Wood Sorrell, bettony, of each three handfulls, 1 handfull of Rue, of Flengreek and Turmerick, of each one ounce well beaten.</p>
<p>Then lay your Snayles and wormes on top of your herbs and flowers and power upon them the strongest Ale you can gett fower gallons, and two gallons of the best sack and let it stand all night or longer, stirring Divers times. In the morning put in two ounces of Cloves, twelve ounces of hartshorne, six ounces of ivory, the waight of two shillings of Saffron. The Cloves must be bruised. You must not stir it after these last things are in.</p>
<p>Then set it on your limbeck and close it fast with Rye Past and receive your water in Pintes. The first is the strongest and so smaller, the smallest may be mended by puting in some of the strongest. When you use it, take three spoonfulls of beere or Ale to two spoonfulls of the strongest and to this three quarts of cowslips flowers, one quart of Buglose and buridg flowers and 3 Ms. of liverworth.</p>
<p>If you will, you should feed your Snayles with sallendine and barbery leaves and bough, and the wash them in new milk fower times and then in a Tubb of strong Ale so that they may be very cleane, and then burn them.</p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/04/24/strange-terrible-news-from-spittle-fields/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Strange &amp; Terrible News From Spittle-fields</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2015/05/20/in-search-of-culpepers-spitalfields/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Nicholas Culpeper&#8217;s Herbs</a></em></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206714</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>At Paul Rothe &#038; Sons</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/23/at-paul-rothe-sons/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/23/at-paul-rothe-sons/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2026 23:01:42 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Market Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206685</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Five days ago, we launched our crowdfund and have raised £4,264 towards our target so far. Click here to support our crowdfund to publish Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK It is my pleasure publish this piece by Julia Harrison, author of the fascinating literary blog THE SILVER LOCKET. Portrait of Paul Rothe by Sarah Ainslie . [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-206642" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="652" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=276%2C300&amp;ssl=1 276w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=768%2C835&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?w=1394&amp;ssl=1 1394w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></h3>
<p>Five days ago, we launched our crowdfund and have raised £4,264 towards our target so far.</p>
<p><em><strong><a href="https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/sarah-ainslies-women-at-work-book" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Click here to support our crowdfund to publish Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK</a></strong></em></p>
<p><em>It is my pleasure publish this piece by<strong> Julia Harrison</strong>, author of the fascinating literary blog <a href="https://silverlocketblog.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">THE SILVER LOCKET</a>. </em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194829" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1462-1.jpg?resize=600%2C903&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="903" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1462-1.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1462-1.jpg?resize=199%2C300&amp;ssl=1 199w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Portrait of Paul Rothe by Sarah Ainslie</em></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p>I have known Paul Rothe&#8217;s Delicatessen &amp; Cafe in Marylebone Lane for as long as I can remember. Back in the late sixties and early seventies, my mother used to travel up to town from Putney with me and my sister for a lunchtime treat at Paul Rothe&#8217;s before having our haircut by Mr John of ‘Charles, Bruno and John’ in their salon round the corner in Hinde St. I still have my hair cut by Andrew, who was a young apprentice in those days and now has his own salon, ‘Andrew K’, nearby on Marylebone St. He told me on my recent visit that during the salon’s heyday they used to cater for their clients and would often order sandwiches from Paul Rothe. I think it is these connections and the continuity they represent which make Paul Rothe so special to me.</p>
<p>Today, I work at Daunt Books on Marylebone High St and often, seeking a moment to myself at lunchtime, my footsteps lead me in Paul Rothe’s direction. Whether I am having a good day or a bad one, I know when I walk through the door a sense of inner peace will descend. Paul and his son Stephen will be there in their smart white grocer’s coats, lively smiles combined with looks of concentration on their faces as they deal expertly with the lunchtime rush. Office workers will be ordering take-aways, together with locals settling down for a bowl of homemade soup, while a happy customer chooses their favourite jam, chutney or sauce from the colourful range lining the shelves.</p>
<p>In the summer, snatches of music and occasionally operatic voices drift over from the rehearsal rooms across the road. Then I am drawn back to those innocent days long ago when my sister and I would look forward to window shopping at the Button Queen opposite, before ordering our homemade Liptauer and cucumber sandwiches at Paul Rothe, eating at the iconic fifties flip up seats and Formica tables where I sit today.</p>
<p>On a recent visit, in the company of Spitalfields Life Contributing Photographer <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sarah Ainslie</a>, I sat down with Paul to learn the story of his shop.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">&#8220;Rothe is a German name.  I am named after my grandfather who came from Saxony and worked his way over on a coal barge in 1898. Most German people at the end of the nineteenth century thought that the streets of London were paved with gold. My father didn&#8217;t know a lot about his father&#8217;s early life in Germany, except he met my grandmother in London. There was a flower shop in Jason&#8217;s Court called Schillers, they were German, and they introduced my grandmother and grandfather to each other. They got married and my father was born in 1915.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">Paul started in partnership in Soho. The reason he opened there was that the man he was in partnership with was meant to open early, then they overlapped in the middle of the day and my grandfather would stay open late. But a lot of the customers were saying that his partner wasn&#8217;t in the store until about two hours after he should have been, so my grandfather decided to come here to Marylebone Lane and open on his own instead.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">In my grandfather’s day, it was purely a retail shop, much smaller than you see now. There was a parlour at the back with a fireplace. My grandmother didn’t want the shop made bigger but my dad was always moaning that it was too small. After my grandfather had passed away, when his mother was on holiday, my father knocked the wall down and made that area part of the shop.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">The shop opened on August 2nd 1900. We traded as a German deli. In one of the old photographs of the shop, you can see the words &#8216;Deutsche Delicatessen.&#8217; We still make Liptauer, which is an Austrian cheese, and my dad made a cheese of his own invention with caraway seeds called &#8216;Kummelkase.&#8217; A lot was imported from Germany and most of the staff spoke German. My grandfather was in the German army before he came over here and then he served in the British army. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">In the Second World War, my father was a conscientious objector, he worked in the Middlesex Hospital on Mortimer St. He never heard his parents speak to each other in German, they only spoke in English. There was quite a German community round here then and we used to get a lot of customers coming to us because they felt at home. Until the First World War, we had ‘Deutche Delicatessen’ on the windows but they took that off. Now we have evolved and trade as an ordinary deli but at Christmas time we still have <em>stollen</em> and <em>lebkuchen</em>. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We lived in Harrow when I was a child and I will always remember coming in to the shop. We had the freestanding tables in those days. Dad had a pole attached to the ceiling which is still there, hidden behind the wooden beam where customers hang their coats, and we used to play &#8216;Here we go round the mulberry bush.&#8217; I had a great time with my sisters dancing round the shop. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">After the Second World War, we started becoming what you see today. A lot of other food stores opened up nearby and we had to change the way we operate. There was a Europa food store in Marylebone High St and, in recent years, Waitrose. Rather than having a general store where you could buy cornflakes and self-raising flour, we reduced our stock but specialised a lot more, so now we do every single jam and marmalade that Tiptree makes, for example, and all the sauces too. The brands that we stock, we have every option available. &#8216;Cottage Delight&#8217; from Staffordshire is another one and &#8216;Thursday Cottage,&#8217; which is a separate entity within Tiptree. They’ve got their own little factory and their own manufacturing process.  We do well with Regent’s Park honey when it is in season in the summer. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">The biggest change in how we operate was when we had parking restrictions imposed. In my dad&#8217;s day, anyone could pull up their car and do a week’s grocery shop but, because of the lack of parking, we don’t have that trade now. At Christmas time, we provide stocking fillers, little gifts that people will take home on the train. We don’t do a vast range, we specialise in particular things. My son is very artistic and he gets the aesthetics of the displays just right. He is computer literate too, which I am not, and looks after the social media side of things, putting the soup of the day up so people know what it is.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">My father was very fortunate to buy the freehold of the shop when it came up for sale.There was an auction and no one else was bidding that day. Apparently, someone else had been interested but they got caught in traffic!”</span></p>
<p>Quite reluctantly, I leave Paul and his son Stephen to go back to my late shift at the bookshop. I am captivated by the stories he has shared. In his breezy, good-natured way, he brought to life not just the history of his family but a century of shopkeeping. Our bookshop has been in existence since 1910 and still has its original fittings, so I like to imagine book lovers of the Edwardian era choosing the latest volume, before walking down Marylebone Lane to buy their groceries at the Deutsche Delicatessen.</p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194875" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/image0-1.jpg?resize=600%2C373&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="373" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/image0-1.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/image0-1.jpg?resize=300%2C187&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>A photograph from 1914 showing ‘Deutsche Delicatessen&#8217; on the windows. The girls were from the newsagents next door.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194834" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1539.jpg?resize=600%2C395&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="395" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1539.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1539.jpg?resize=300%2C198&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Paul Rothe’s grandfather in the early twenties, with his assistant Ernie</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194835" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1534.jpg?resize=600%2C403&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="403" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1534.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1534.jpg?resize=300%2C202&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /><br />
Robert, Karoline, Helmut and Thomas, c.1956</p>
<p><em>&#8216;We stayed open during the war &#8211; my aunt ran the shop with one other member of staff called Thomas.</em> <span class="s1"><i>As a young boy I remember we had Helmut who was a German prisoner of war who stayed over here &#8211; he always wore a little bow tie and we had a German student here. I would have been about ten and my grandmother was serving behind the counter.&#8217;</i></span></p>
<p><span class="s1"><i><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194839" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1528-2.jpg?resize=600%2C389&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="389" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1528-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1528-2.jpg?resize=300%2C195&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></i></span></p>
<p>Robert Rothe, 1961</p>
<p><em>&#8216;My dad was full of adrenaline, trying to serve quickly at lunchtime, he didn&#8217;t like anything that slows things down, so he didn&#8217;t do toast, wouldn&#8217;t do lettuce, he wanted everyone served quickly, he didn&#8217;t want a long queue.&#8217;</em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194840" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1583-3.jpg?resize=600%2C809&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="809" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1583-3.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1583-3.jpg?resize=222%2C300&amp;ssl=1 222w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Three generations of the Rothe family on the shop&#8217;s hundredth anniversary</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194860" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1448-2.jpg?resize=600%2C435&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="435" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1448-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1448-2.jpg?resize=300%2C218&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Stephen &amp; Paul Rothe today</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194842" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1491.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1491.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1491.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Stephen &amp; Paul Rothe</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194843" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1503.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1503.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1503.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Stephen demonstrates the fine art of a pastrami sandwich</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194844" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1506.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1506.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1506.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Adding the pickles</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194845" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1514.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1514.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1514.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>The complete sandwich</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194846" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1517.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1517.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1517.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Wrapping the sandwich expertly</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194848" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1524-2.jpg?resize=600%2C516&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="516" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1524-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1524-2.jpg?resize=300%2C258&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>A magnificent sandwich</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194852" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1578.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1578.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1578.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>David prepares the soup of the day freshly in the kitchen</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194856" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1556-2.jpg?resize=600%2C492&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="492" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1556-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1556-2.jpg?resize=300%2C246&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><em>&#8216;At some point after the Second World War, my father started doing catering on the premises and we had freestanding tables with four chairs round each table, but you would get a group of six in and they would move the chairs around. We were already getting long queues and dad would have to stop serving and put it all back to where they belonged. So he ordered these that were screwed down to the floor so that people couldn&#8217;t move them. They are very fifties with their Formica tops. We had two more put in in 1964 and they&#8217;ve been here ever since.&#8217;</em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194851" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1438.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1438.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1438.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-194857" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1458-2.jpg?resize=600%2C660&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="660" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1458-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/DSC_1458-2.jpg?resize=273%2C300&amp;ssl=1 273w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Stephen &amp; Paul Rothe</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Sarah Ainslie</a></p>
<p><strong>PAUL ROTHE &amp; SON, 35 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2NN</strong></p>
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<p><a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/2021/04/16/barry-rogg-of-roggs-delicatessen/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>At Rogg&#8217;s Delicatessen</em></a></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206685</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>At Oitij-jo Kitchen</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/21/at-oitij-jo-kitchen-ii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/21/at-oitij-jo-kitchen-ii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Apr 2026 23:01:47 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206653</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Last weekend we launched our crowdfund and have raised £3,814 towards our target so far. Click here to support our crowdfund to publish Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK &#8216;We want to celebrate the work that the women do&#8217; . People often ask where they can find authentic Bengali food in Spitalfields and I have found [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-206642" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="652" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=600%2C652&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=276%2C300&amp;ssl=1 276w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?resize=768%2C835&amp;ssl=1 768w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/Women-at-Work-cover-1.jpg?w=1394&amp;ssl=1 1394w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></h3>
<p>Last weekend we launched our crowdfund and have raised £3,814 towards our target so far.</p>
<p><em><strong><a href="https://www.crowdfunder.co.uk/p/sarah-ainslies-women-at-work-book" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Click here to support our crowdfund to publish Sarah Ainslie&#8217;s WOMEN AT WORK</a></strong></em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199384" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7551.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7551.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7551.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>&#8216;We want to celebrate the work that the women do&#8217;</em></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;"><em>.</em></div>
<p>People often ask where they can find authentic Bengali food in Spitalfields and I have found the answer in<a href="https://oitij-jo.org/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"> Oitij-jo Kitchen</a>, a women&#8217;s collective who run the catering operation at Rich Mix Arts Centre in the Bethnal Green Rd.</p>
<p>Contributing Photographer <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sarah Ainslie</a> spent a morning recording the activity in the kitchen while I sat down with co-founder Maher Anjum who explained to me what it is all about, before we all reconvened for a taste test.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">&#8220;Four of us set up the Oitij-jo collective in 2013 straight after the 2012 London Olympics. We had Akram Khan in the opening ceremony but nothing else. We were all creatives, so we asked ourselves &#8216;Where are we in this scenario?&#8217;</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We set up Oitij-jo to be a platform for creative practitioners from the Bangladeshi disapora, representing them, supporting them, especially emerging artists, but also showcasing our rich cultural heritage and translating it into what is happening now. <em>Oitij-jo</em> in bangla means heritage. It was important to us to take it to the future, so that the next generation have an understanding and can interpret it in their own way, because it is only at that point that it is alive.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">In 2016, we did a year&#8217;s residency at the Gram Bangla restaurant in Brick Lane displaying art works with a new exhibition every three months.  It was the first restaurant which served traditional Bengali food, and that was when food became part of our project. We had a lot of conversations with the restauranteurs about the nature of our food. And we realised that food was such an important part our cultural identity, it was something we wanted to work with. There was a visible lack of women in the restaurant sector and in catering in general, so we decided to focus on bringing in Bangladeshi women. It&#8217;s culture that people carry, even if may not pay attention to it, we simply say &#8216;Have some food.&#8217;</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">One of the things that women who work with us tell us is, &#8216;People say &#8216;thank you&#8217; for the food I prepare for them. That&#8217;s really nice because at home it&#8217;s taken for granted. No-one&#8217;s going to thank you for the food you put on the table, it&#8217;s come-eat-go.&#8217; For a lot of these women, the recognition of what they are doing is a recognition of themselves and food becomes an intrinsic part of who they are, part of their identity.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">British Bangladeshi women are some of the least economically active of the population this country, three times less likely to be paid the same wages as anyone else. What are we doing about it? The creative sector is one of the most productive, but the involvement of black, Asian and people from other ethnic minorities is one of the least.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We see Otijo-jo kitchen as the means of giving women the pathway to self-discovery and self-esteem, while exploring the question of what is food for the British Bangladeshi community.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">The so-called colonial curry &#8211; and what is seen to be &#8216;curry&#8217; &#8211; has a complicated lineage, but there is a place for it and it has made a huge contribution to the community where employment was not available. It was a way for people to establish themselves and be their own bosses, rather than waiting for a job that might never come. We need to acknowledge that but it gets complicated when we ask, &#8216;What is the food? Who does it? And how does it happen?&#8217;</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">What we want to do is something quite different. We want to celebrate the work that the women do and the food which we consider is traditional Bengali food that people eat at home.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We could not get any funding, so we did a crowdfund in 2018 and raised a tiny amount of money, and started in 2019. Since then we have worked with about sixty women. We do not expect them to stay with us because we want them to gain the ability and self-confidence, get the skills and experience, and move on to do what they want to do.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">Many women who come to us have never been in paid employment, they have very little experience of being outside the home or being in a working environment. We want them to build up the confidence to say &#8216;I can be here&#8217; and be able to talk to people.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We have around a dozen women working with us at present. Once the women have finished their training period, they can stay on working with us and earn the London Living Wage. While they are training with us, they get a daily bursary.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We are a charity and a social enterprise, so we have to make sure we earn money to continue this work. Over the years, we have developed menus and recipes that are our style of cooking. The women who join us learn to cook our recipes the way we cook them.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">We serve food at Rich Mix each Thursday to Sunday from 3pm to 9pm. The rest of the time, we use the kitchen here to do catering. We do conferences, seminars, weddings, any kind of occasion. We provide a hundred student lunches for a university twice a week, that&#8217;s a very different kind of catering. We did a conference for the Serpentine Gallery at Somerset House for one hundred and twenty people, breakfast, tea, lunch and something in the afternoon too.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">Most of the women find us through word of mouth and we are having people contacting us all the time. We have a wide range of ages from around twenty to over sixty and we feel that&#8217;s really important because they brings different skills, experiences and abilities. Women come from across Tower Hamlets and the East End.</span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">When we first started, someone asked, &#8216;If people want vegan food, what shall we give?&#8217; If you have plain rice and dhal which is a standard Bengali meal, that is vegan. Bangladesh is a nation of rivers, so our heritage is that we eat vegetarian and vegan food all the time. You could say that we are going with the trend, except that is normal traditional food for us.&#8221;</span></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199411" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7601.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7601.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7601.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199412" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7499.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7499.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7499.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199413" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7540.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7540.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7540.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199414" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7692.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7692.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7692.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199415" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7489.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7489.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7489.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199416" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7595.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7595.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7595.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199417" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7618.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7618.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7618.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199418" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7788.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7788.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7788.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199419" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7735.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7735.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7735.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199420" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_4147.jpg?resize=600%2C600&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="600" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_4147.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_4147.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_4147.jpg?resize=200%2C200&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199421" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7777.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7777.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7777.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199422" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7677.jpg?resize=600%2C899&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="899" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7677.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7677.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199424" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7718.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7718.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7718.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199425" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7630.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7630.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7630.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199426" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7808-2.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7808-2.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7808-2.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199427" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7851.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7851.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7851.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199428" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7920.jpg?resize=600%2C336&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="336" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7920.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7920.jpg?resize=300%2C168&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-199429" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7883.jpg?resize=600%2C401&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7883.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/DSC_7883.jpg?resize=300%2C201&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Surma Khanom, Maher Anjum, Hajira Bibi &amp; Rohema Begum</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © <a href="http://www.sarahainslie.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sarah Ainslie</a></p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/2021/03/28/how-to-make-a-chapati-x/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>How To Make A Chapati</em></a></p>
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		<title>The Ceremony Of The Widow&#8217;s Buns</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/03/the-ceremony-of-the-widows-buns-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/04/03/the-ceremony-of-the-widows-buns-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Apr 2026 23:01:34 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cultural Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206538</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The Gentle Author’s Tour of the City of London: Meet me at 2pm on EASTER MONDAY on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral for a tour of sightseeing and storytelling, rambling through the alleys and byways of the Square Mile in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City. (Also booking for Spring Bank [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-206539" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?resize=600%2C729&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="729" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A153.jpeg?resize=247%2C300&amp;ssl=1 247w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><span style="color: #800000;"><em><strong>The Gentle Author’s Tour of the City of London:</strong> Meet me at 2pm on EASTER MONDAY on the steps of St Paul’s Cathedral for a tour of sightseeing and storytelling, rambling through the alleys and byways of the Square Mile in search of the wonders and the wickedness of the City. (Also booking for Spring Bank Holiday Monday 4th May)</em></span></p>
<p><a href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>CLICK HERE TO BOOK</strong></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>Fifteen years ago on a cold Good Friday, I attended the ceremony of the widow&#8217;s buns at Bow. The ceremony will taking place at 2pm today.</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1507/" rel="attachment wp-att-30392"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30392" title="IMG_1507" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?resize=600%2C793" alt="" width="600" height="793" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1507.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Baked by Mr Bunn&#8217;s Bakery in Chadwell Heath</em></p>
<p>On Good Friday, what could be more appropriate to the equivocal nature of the day than an event which involves both celebration of Hot Cross Buns and the remembrance of the departed in a single custom &#8211; such is the ceremony of the Widow&#8217;s Buns at Bow.</p>
<p>A net of Hot Cross Buns hangs above the bar at The Widow&#8217;s Son in Bromley by Bow, and each year a sailor comes to add another bun to the collection. And this year I was there to witness it for myself, though &#8211; before you make any assumption based on your knowledge of my passion for buns  &#8211; I must clarify that no Hot Cross Buns are eaten in the ceremony, they are purely for symbolic purposes. Left to dry out and gather dust and hang in the net for eternity, London&#8217;s oldest buns exist as metaphors to represent the passing years and talismans to bring good luck but, more than this, they tell a story.</p>
<p>The Widow&#8217;s Son was built in 1848 upon the former site of an old widow&#8217;s cottage, so the tale goes. When her only son left to be a sailor, she promised to bake him a Hot Cross Bun and keep it for his return. But although he drowned at sea, the widow refused to give up hope, preserving the bun upon his return and making a fresh one each year to add to the collection. This annual tradition has been continued in the pub as a remembrance of the widow and her son, and of the bond between all those on land and sea, with sailors of the Royal Navy coming to place the bun in the net every year.</p>
<p>Behind this custom lies the belief that Hot Cross Buns baked on Good Friday will never decay, reflected in the tradition of nailing a Hot Cross Bun to the wall so that the cross may bring good luck to the household &#8211; though what appeals to me about the story of the widow is the notion of baking as an act of faith, incarnating a mother&#8217;s hope that her son lives. I interpret the widow&#8217;s persistence in making the bun each year as a beautiful gesture, not of self-deception but of longing for wish-fulfilment, manifesting her love for her son. So I especially like the clever image upon the inn sign outside the Widow&#8217;s Son, illustrating an apocryphal scene in the story when the son returns from the sea many years later to discover a huge net of buns hanging behind the door, demonstrating that his mother always expected him back.</p>
<p>When I arrived at the Widow&#8217;s Son, I had the good fortune to meet Frederick Beckett who first came here for the ceremony in 1958 when his brother Alan placed the Hot Cross Bun in the net, and he had the treasured photo in his hand to show me. Frederick moved out from Bow to Dagenham fifteen years ago, but he still comes back each year to visit the Widow&#8217;s Son, one of many in this community and further afield who delight to converge here on Good Friday for old times&#8217; sake. Already, there was a tangible sense of anticipation, with spirits uplifted by the sunshine and the flags hung outside, ready to celebrate St George next day.</p>
<p>The landlady proudly showed me the handsome fresh 2011 Hot Cross Bun, baked by Mr Bunn of Mr Bunn&#8217;s Bakery in Chadwell Heath who always makes the special bun each year  <em>-&#8221; fabulous buns!&#8221; </em>declared Kathy, almost succumbing to a swoon, as he she held up her newest sweetest darling that would shortly join its fellows in the net over the bar. There were many more ancient buns, she explained, until a fire destroyed most of them fifteen years ago, and those burnt ones in the net today are merely those few which were salvaged by the firemen from the wreckage of the pub. Remarkably, having opened their hearts to the emotional poetry of Hot Cross Buns, at the Widow&#8217;s Son they even cherish those cinders which the rest of the world would consign to a bin.</p>
<p>The effect of the beer and the unseasonal warm temperatures upon a pub full of sailors and thirsty locals rapidly induced a pervasive atmosphere of collective euphoria, heightened by a soundtrack of pounding rock, and, in the thick of it, I was delighted to meet my old pal Lenny Hamilton, the jewel thief. <em>&#8220;I&#8217;m not here for the buns, I&#8217;m here for the bums!&#8221; </em>he confided to me with a sip of his Corvoisier and lemonade, making a lewd gesture and breaking in to a wide grin of salacious enjoyment as various Bow belles, in off-the-shoulder dresses, with flowing locks and wearing festive corsages, came over enthusiastically to shower this legendary rascal with kisses.</p>
<p>I stood beside Lenny as three o&#8217; clock approached, enjoying the high-spirited gathering as the sailors came together in front of the bar. The landlord handed over the Hot Cross Bun to widespread applause and the sailors lifted up their smallest recruit. Then, with a mighty cheer from the crowd and multiple camera flashes, the recruit placed the bun in the net.  Once this heroic task was accomplished, and the landlady had removed the tinfoil covers from the dishes of food laid out upon the billiard table, all the elements were in place for a knees-up to last the rest of the day. As they like to say in Bromley by Bow, it was <em>&#8220;Another year, another Good Friday, another bun.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1491/" rel="attachment wp-att-30390"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30390" title="IMG_1491" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1491.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Peter Gracey, Nick Edelshain and Roddy Urquhart raise a pint to the Widow&#8217;s Buns.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1484/" rel="attachment wp-att-30388"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30388" title="IMG_1484" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?resize=600%2C455" alt="" width="600" height="455" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1484.jpg?resize=300%2C227&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Tony Scott and Debbie Willis of HMS President with Frederick Beckett holding the photograph of his brother placing the bun in the net in 1958.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1488/" rel="attachment wp-att-30389"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30389" title="IMG_1488" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?resize=600%2C820" alt="" width="600" height="820" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1488.jpg?resize=219%2C300&amp;ssl=1 219w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Alan Beckett places the bun on Good Friday, 4th April 1958.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1503/" rel="attachment wp-att-30391"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30391" title="IMG_1503" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=600%2C598" alt="" width="600" height="598" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=200%2C200&amp;ssl=1 200w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1503.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_4439/" rel="attachment wp-att-30396"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30396" title="IMG_4439" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?resize=600%2C513" alt="" width="600" height="513" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4439.jpg?resize=300%2C256&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>3 pm, Good Friday, 22nd April 2011.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1551/" rel="attachment wp-att-30394"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30394" title="IMG_1551" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1551.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>The Widow&#8217;s Son was the local for my pal Lenny Hamilton, the jewel thief.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_4428/" rel="attachment wp-att-30395"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30395" title="IMG_4428" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?resize=600%2C450" alt="" width="600" height="450" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_4428.jpg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/23/the-widows-buns-at-bow/img_1516/" rel="attachment wp-att-30393"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-30393" title="IMG_1516" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?resize=600%2C745" alt="" width="600" height="745" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/IMG_1516.jpg?resize=241%2C300&amp;ssl=1 241w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A Widow&#8217;s Son of Bromley by Bow</strong></p>
<p>by Harold Adshead</p>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A widow had an only son,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The sea was his concern,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">His parting wish an Easter Bun</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Be kept for his return.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">But when it came to Eastertide</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">No sailor came her way</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">To claim the bun she set aside</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Against the happy day.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">They say the ship was lost at sea,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The son came home no more</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">But still with humble piety</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The widow kept her store.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">So year by year a humble bun</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Was charm against despair,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A loving task that once began</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Became her livelong care.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The Widow&#8217;s Son is now an inn</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">That stands upon the site</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">And signifies its origin</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Each year by Easter rite</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address> </address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">The buns hang up for all to see,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A blackened mass above,</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">A truly strange epitome</span></address>
<address><span style="font-style: normal;">Of patient mother love.</span></address>
<address> </address>
<address><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-206546" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?resize=600%2C739&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="739" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/04/A186.jpeg?resize=244%2C300&amp;ssl=1 244w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></address>
<address> </address>
<address>London’s oldest buns photographed by London &amp; Middlesex Archaeological Society in the 1940s</address>
]]></content:encoded>
					
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206538</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>The Bakers Of Widegate St</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/06/the-bakers-of-widegate-st-iiii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/06/the-bakers-of-widegate-st-iiii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Mar 2026 00:01:31 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spiritual Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206312</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[CLICK HERE TO BOOK &#160; Next time you pass through Widegate St, walking from Bishopsgate towards Artillery Passage on your way to Spitalfields, lift up your eyes to see the four splendid sculptures of bakers by Philip Lindsey Clark (1889 &#8211; 1977) upon the former premises of Nordheim Model Bakery at numbers twelve and thirteen. [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0045-9/" rel="attachment wp-att-58534"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205815" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?w=672&amp;ssl=1 672w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener">CLICK HERE TO BOOK</a></strong></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58534" title="IMG_0045" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00455.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Next time you pass through Widegate St, walking from Bishopsgate towards Artillery Passage on your way to Spitalfields, lift up your eyes to see the four splendid sculptures of bakers by Philip Lindsey Clark (1889 &#8211; 1977) upon the former premises of Nordheim Model Bakery at numbers twelve and thirteen. Pause to take in the subtle proportions of this appealing yet modest building of 1926 by George Val Myers, the architect of Broadcasting House.</p>
<p>Born in Brixton, son of Scots architectural sculptor Robert Lindsey Clark, Philip trained in his father&#8217;s studio in Cheltenham and then returned to London to study at the City &amp; Guilds School in Kennington. Enlisted in 1914, he was severely wounded in action and received a Distinguished Service Order for conspicuous gallantry. Then, after completing his training at the Royal Academy Schools, he designed a number of war memorials including those in Southwark and in Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow.</p>
<p>The form of these ceramic reliefs of bakers &#8211; with their white glaze and sparing use of blue as a background &#8211; recalls religious sculpture, especially stations of the cross, and there is something deeply engaging about such handsome, austerely-modelled figures with their self-absorbed presence, preoccupied by their work. The dignity of labour and the poetic narrative of transformation in the baking of bread is made tangible by these finely judged sculptures. My own favourite is the figure of the baker with his tray of loaves upon his shoulder in triumph, a satisfaction which anyone who makes anything will recognise, borne of the work, skill and application that is entailed in creation.</p>
<p>These reliefs were fired by Carters of Poole, the company that became Poole Pottery, notable for their luminous white glazes, elegant sculptural forms and spare decoration using clear natural colours. They created many of the tiles for the London Underground and their relief tiles from the 1930s can still be seen on Bethnal Green Station.</p>
<p>Philip Lindsey Clark&#8217;s sculptures are those of a man who grew up in the artists&#8217; studio, yet witnessed the carnage of First World War at first hand, carrying on fighting for two days even with a piece of shrapnel buried in his head, and then turned his talents to memorialise those of his generation that were gone. After that, it is no wonder that he saw the sublime in the commonplace activity of bakers yet, from 1930 onwards, his sculpture was exclusively of religious subjects. Eventually Lindsey Clark entered a Carmelite order, leaving London and retiring to the West Country where he lived until the age of eighty-eight.</p>
<p>So take a moment next time you pass through Widegate St &#8211; named after the wide gate leading to the &#8216;spital fields that once were there &#8211; and contemplate the sculptures by Philip Lindsey Clark, embodying his vision of the holiness of bakers.</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0047-6/" rel="attachment wp-att-58535"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58535" title="IMG_0047" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00472.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0049-4/" rel="attachment wp-att-58536"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58536" title="IMG_0049" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00492.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0050-11/" rel="attachment wp-att-58537"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58537" title="IMG_0050" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00504.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/03/23/philip-lindsey-clarks-sculptures-in-widegate-st/img_0061-4/" rel="attachment wp-att-58538"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-58538" title="IMG_0061" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612-600x799.jpg?resize=600%2C799" alt="" width="600" height="799" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?resize=600%2C799&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/IMG_00612.jpg?w=1000&amp;ssl=1 1000w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>George Val Myer&#8217;s former Nordheim Model Bakery with sculptures by Philip Lindsey Clark</p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/04/26/a-night-in-the-bakery-at-st-john/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>A Night in the Bakery at St John</em></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/11/19/dorothy-annans-murals-in-farringdon-st/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>Dorothy Annan&#8217;s Murals in Farringdon St</em></a></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/05/19/margaret-ropes-east-end-saints/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Margaret Rope&#8217;s East End Saints</a></em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/06/24/a-door-in-cornhill/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>A Door in Cornhill</em></a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
					
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206312</post-id>	</item>
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		<title>At The Pellicci Museum</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/01/at-the-pellicci-museum/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/03/01/at-the-pellicci-museum/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Mar 2026 00:01:55 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Cultural Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206295</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[&#160; This is Lucinda Rogers&#8216; drawing of E.Pellicci in the Bethnal Green Rd, London&#8217;s most celebrated family-run cafe, into the third generation now and in business for over a century &#8211; and continuing to welcome East Enders who have been coming for generations to sit in the cosy marquetry-lined interior and enjoy the honest, keenly-priced meals [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0001/" rel="attachment wp-att-26445"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26445" title="pellicci_0001" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?resize=600%2C355" alt="" width="600" height="355" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0001.jpg?resize=300%2C177&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>This is <a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/11/10/lucinda-rogers-east-end/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lucinda Rogers</a>&#8216; drawing of E.Pellicci in the Bethnal Green Rd, London&#8217;s most celebrated family-run cafe, into the third generation now and in business for over a century &#8211; and continuing to welcome East Enders who have been coming for generations to sit in the cosy marquetry-lined interior and enjoy the honest, keenly-priced meals prepared every day from fresh ingredients.</p>
<p>E.Pellicci is a marvel. It is so beautiful it is listed, the food is always exemplary and I every time I come here I leave heartened to have met someone new.</p>
<p>I found Lucinda Rogers&#8217; drawing on the wall in one of the small upper rooms that now serves as an informal museum of the history of the cafe, curated by Maria Pellicci&#8217;s nephew &#8211; Toni, a bright-eyed Neapolitan, who has been working here since he left school in Lucca in Tuscany and came to London in 1970. He led me up the narrow staircase, opened the door of the low-ceilinged room and with a single shy gesture of his arm indicated the family museum. Toni has lined the walls with press cuttings, photographs and all kinds of memorabilia, which tell the story of the ascendancy of Pellicci&#8217;s, attended by a few statues of saints to give the pleasing aura of a shrine to this cherished collection.</p>
<p>Primo Pellici began working in the cafe in 1900 and it was here in these two rooms that his wife Elide brought up his seven children single-handedly, whilst running the cafe below to keep the family after her husband&#8217;s death in 1931. Elide is the E.Pellicci whose initial is still emblazoned in chrome upon the primrose-hued vitroglass fascia and her portrait remains, she and her husband counterbalance each other eternally on either side of the serving hatch in the cafe. In 1921, Nevio senior was born in the front room here. He ran the cafe until his death in 2008, superceded as head of the family business today by his wife Maria who possesses a natural authority and charisma that makes her a worthy successor to Elide.</p>
<p>As I sat alone in the quiet of the room, leafing through the albums, surrounded by the walls of press coverage, Maria came upstairs from the kitchen to join me. She pointed out the flat roof at the rear where her former husband Nevio played as a child. <em>&#8220;He was very happy here,&#8221;</em> she assured me with a tender smile, standing silently and casting her eyes between the two empty rooms &#8211; sensing the emotional presence of the crowded family life that once filled in this space that is now a modest store room and an office. Maria and Nevio brought up their children in a terraced house around the corner in Derbyshire St, and these days Toni goes round each morning early to pick her up from there, before they start work around six at the cafe she runs with her son Nevio and daughter Anna.</p>
<p>Pellicci&#8217;s collection tells a very particular history of the twentieth century and beyond &#8211; of immigration, of wars, of coronations and gangsters too. But, more than this, it is a history of wonderful meals, a history of very hard work, a history of great family pride, and a history of happiness and love.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8462/" rel="attachment wp-att-26435"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26435" title="IMG_8462" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?resize=600%2C800" alt="" width="600" height="800" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8462.jpg?resize=225%2C300&amp;ssl=1 225w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Primo Pellicci still presides upon the cafe where he started work in 1900</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive10/" rel="attachment wp-att-26442"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26442" title="pell_archive10" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?resize=600%2C910" alt="" width="600" height="910" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?w=495&amp;ssl=1 495w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive10.jpg?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Primo&#8217;s children, Nevio and Mary Pellicci, 1930</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0002/" rel="attachment wp-att-26446"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26446" title="pellicci_0002" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?resize=600%2C890" alt="" width="600" height="890" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0002.jpg?resize=202%2C300&amp;ssl=1 202w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s wartime licence issued to Elide Pellicci in 1939 by the Ministry of Food</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0011/" rel="attachment wp-att-26451"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26451" title="pellicci_0011" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?resize=600%2C636" alt="" width="600" height="636" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0011.jpg?resize=283%2C300&amp;ssl=1 283w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s paper bag issued to celebrate the Coronation of Elizabeth II  in 1953 &#8211; note the phone number, Bishopsgate 1542</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive11-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26460"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26460" title="pell_archive11" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?resize=600%2C911" alt="" width="600" height="911" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?w=527&amp;ssl=1 527w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive111.jpg?resize=197%2C300&amp;ssl=1 197w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Mary and Maria Pellicci, Trafalgar Sq, 1963</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26461"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26461" title="pellicci" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?resize=600%2C625" alt="" width="600" height="625" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci1.jpg?resize=288%2C300&amp;ssl=1 288w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0003/" rel="attachment wp-att-26447"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26447" title="pellicci_0003" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?resize=600%2C806" alt="" width="600" height="806" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0003.jpg?resize=223%2C300&amp;ssl=1 223w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio junior, aged seven, skylarking outside the house in Derbyshire St with pals Claudio and Alfie</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive4-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26462"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26462" title="pell_archive4" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?resize=600%2C401" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?w=528&amp;ssl=1 528w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive41.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio senior and Toni, 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive3-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26463"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26463" title="pell_archive3" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?resize=600%2C384" alt="" width="600" height="384" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?w=536&amp;ssl=1 536w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive31.jpg?resize=300%2C191&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Pellicci&#8217;s customers in 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive6/" rel="attachment wp-att-26441"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26441" title="pell_archive6" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?resize=600%2C397" alt="" width="600" height="397" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?w=539&amp;ssl=1 539w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive6.jpg?resize=300%2C198&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio senior, 1980</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0005/" rel="attachment wp-att-26449"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26449" title="pellicci_0005" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?resize=600%2C476" alt="" width="600" height="476" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0005.jpg?resize=300%2C238&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Nevio and Toni</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellicci_0007/" rel="attachment wp-att-26450"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26450" title="pellicci_0007" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?resize=600%2C883" alt="" width="600" height="883" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellicci_0007.jpg?resize=203%2C300&amp;ssl=1 203w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pell_archive14/" rel="attachment wp-att-26444"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26444" title="pell_archive14" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?resize=600%2C765" alt="" width="600" height="765" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?w=439&amp;ssl=1 439w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pell_archive14.jpg?resize=235%2C300&amp;ssl=1 235w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Christmas card from Charlie Kray, 1980</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8455-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-26434"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26434" title="IMG_8455" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?resize=600%2C415" alt="" width="600" height="415" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8455.jpg?resize=300%2C207&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Nevio junior and Nevio senior</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8467/" rel="attachment wp-att-26436"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26436" title="IMG_8467" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?resize=600%2C417" alt="" width="600" height="417" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8467.jpg?resize=300%2C208&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">George Flay&#8217;s montage of the world of Pellicci&#8217;s</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/nevio_tel/" rel="attachment wp-att-26438"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26438" title="nevio_tel" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?resize=600%2C361" alt="" width="600" height="361" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?w=450&amp;ssl=1 450w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/nevio_tel.jpg?resize=300%2C180&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Nevio Senior, 2005</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8479/" rel="attachment wp-att-26437"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26437" title="IMG_8479" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?resize=600%2C470" alt="" width="600" height="470" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8479.jpg?resize=300%2C235&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/pellici/" rel="attachment wp-att-26453"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26453" title="pellici" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?resize=600%2C412" alt="" width="600" height="412" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/pellici.jpg?resize=300%2C206&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/03/17/pelliccis-collection/img_8449/" rel="attachment wp-att-26433"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-26433" title="IMG_8449" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?resize=600%2C521" alt="" width="600" height="521" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/IMG_8449.jpg?resize=300%2C260&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Salvatore Zaccaria, known as Toni, curator of the Pellicci Museum</p>
<p><em>You may also enjoy reading</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/02/13/maria-pellicci-cook/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Maria Pellicci, Cook</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/03/05/pellicis-celebrity-album/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Pellicci&#8217;s Celebrity Album</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/10/21/maria-pellicci-the-meatball-queen-of-bethnal-green/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Meatball Queen of Bethnal Green</a></em></p>
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		<title>At The Jewish Soup Kitchen</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/02/28/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen-iii/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/02/28/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen-iii/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2026 00:01:28 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Past Life]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photo Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=206285</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Click here to book your spring walk through Spitalfields Click here to book your walk through the City of London . Originally established in 1854 in Leman St, the Jewish Soup Kitchen opened in Brune St in 1902 and, even though it closed in 1992, the building in Spitalfields still proclaims its purpose to the [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205815" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/nyd.1-2.jpeg?w=672&amp;ssl=1 672w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0000ff;"><a style="color: #0000ff;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em><strong>Click here to book your spring walk through Spitalfields</strong></em></a></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #339966;"><strong><a style="color: #339966;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>Click here to book your walk through the City of London</em></a></strong></span></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_005/" rel="attachment wp-att-107790"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107790" title="SFE_900201_005" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?resize=600%2C392" alt="" width="600" height="392" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_005.jpg?resize=300%2C196&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Originally established in 1854 in Leman St, the Jewish Soup Kitchen opened in Brune St in 1902 and, even though it closed in 1992, the building in Spitalfields still proclaims its purpose to the world in bold ceramic lettering across the fascia. These days few remember when it was supplying groceries to fifteen hundred people weekly, which makes Photographer <a href="http://www.stuartfreedman.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stuart Freedman&#8217;s</a> pictures especially interesting as a glimpse of one of the last vestiges of the Jewish East End.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;After I finished studying Politics at university, I decided I wanted to be a photographer but I didn&#8217;t know how to do it,&#8221; </em>Stuart recalled, contemplating these pictures taken in 1990 at the very beginning of his career. &#8220;<em>Although I was brought up in Dalston, my father had grown up in Stepney in the thirties and, invariably, when we used to go walking together we always ended up in Petticoat Lane, which seemed to have a talismanic quality for him. So I think I was following in his footsteps.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><em>&#8220;I used to wander with my camera and, one day, I was just walking around taking pictures, when I moseyed in to the Soup Kitchen and said &#8216;Can I take photographs?&#8217; and they said, &#8216;Yes.&#8217; &#8220;</em><em>I didn&#8217;t realise what I was doing because now they seem to be the only pictures of this place in existence. You could smell that area then &#8211; the smell of damp in old men&#8217;s coats and the poverty.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>For the past twenty-five years Stuart Freedman has worked internationally as a photojournalist, yet he was surprised to come upon new soup kitchens recently while on assignment in the north of England.<em> &#8220;The poverty is back,&#8221;</em> he revealed to me in regret,<em>&#8220;which makes these pictures relevant all over again.&#8221;</em></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_009/" rel="attachment wp-att-107791"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107791" title="SFE_900201_009" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?resize=600%2C845" alt="" width="600" height="845" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_009.jpg?resize=213%2C300&amp;ssl=1 213w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>Groceries awaiting collection</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_003/" rel="attachment wp-att-107792"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107792" title="SFE_900201_003" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?resize=600%2C404" alt="" width="600" height="404" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_003.jpg?resize=300%2C202&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A volunteer offers a second hand coat to an old lady</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_007/" rel="attachment wp-att-107793"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107793" title="SFE_900201_007" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?resize=600%2C394" alt="" width="600" height="394" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_007.jpg?resize=300%2C197&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An old woman collects her grocery allowance</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_015/" rel="attachment wp-att-107794"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107794" title="SFE_900201_015" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?resize=600%2C395" alt="" width="600" height="395" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_015.jpg?resize=300%2C197&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A volunteer distributes donated groceries</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_013/" rel="attachment wp-att-107795"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107795" title="SFE_900201_013" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?resize=600%2C401" alt="" width="600" height="401" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_013.jpg?resize=300%2C200&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>View from behind the hatch</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_021/" rel="attachment wp-att-107796"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107796" title="SFE_900201_021" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?resize=600%2C897" alt="" width="600" height="897" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_021.jpg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>A couple await their food parcel</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_017-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-107798"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107798" title="SFE_900201_017" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?resize=600%2C396" alt="" width="600" height="396" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_0171.jpg?resize=300%2C198&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An ex-boxer arrives to collect his weekly rations</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_019/" rel="attachment wp-att-107799"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107799" title="SFE_900201_019" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?resize=600%2C915" alt="" width="600" height="915" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_019.jpg?resize=196%2C300&amp;ssl=1 196w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An old boxer&#8217;s portrait, taken while waiting to collect his groceries</p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/02/16/at-the-jewish-soup-kitchen/sfe_900201_023/" rel="attachment wp-att-107800"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-107800" title="SFE_900201_023" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?resize=600%2C411" alt="" width="600" height="411" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/SFE_900201_023.jpg?resize=300%2C205&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>An elderly man leaves the soup kitchen with his supplies</p>
<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright ©<a href="http://www.stuartfreedman.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"> Stuart Freedman</a></p>
<p><em>You can read more about the Soup Kitchen here</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2011/04/12/harry-landis-actor/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Harry Landis, Actor</a></em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2010/03/19/linda-carney-machinist/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Linda Carney, Machinist</a></em></p>
<p><em>You may also like to take a look at</em></p>
<p><em><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2014/01/17/stuart-freemans-pie-mash-eels/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Stuart Freedman&#8217;s Pie &amp; Mash &amp; Eels</a></em></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">206285</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>The Triumph Of Populations Bakery</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/01/19/the-triumph-of-populations-bakery/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2026/01/19/the-triumph-of-populations-bakery/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 19 Jan 2026 00:01:51 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205924</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[It is my pleasure to publish these edited excerpts from this piece by Julia Harrison, author of the fascinating literary blog THE SILVER LOCKET. I am proud that Julia is a graduate of my blog-writing course. There are only a few places available now on my course HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><em>It is my pleasure to publish these edited excerpts from this piece by<strong> Julia Harrison</strong>, author of the fascinating literary blog <a href="https://silverlocketblog.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">THE SILVER LOCKET</a>. I am proud that Julia is a graduate of my blog-writing course.</em></p>
<p><em>There are only a few places available now on my course <a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ</a> on 7th &amp; 8th February. Email spitalfieldslife@gmail.com to enrol.</em></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205944" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C761&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="761" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7614-1.jpeg?resize=237%2C300&amp;ssl=1 237w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>George&#8217;s Galette des Rois</em></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Spitalfields Life readers will already know about George Fuest’s <a href="https://www.instagram.com/populations.bakery/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Populations Bakery</a>. In the past, I have collected pastries from George’s home on Fournier St but the discovery that he was offering Galettes des Rois at his new bakery at <a href="https://cornershoplondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Corner Shop</a> in Arundel St was just too tempting. On Saturday, I made my way down to the Embankment, almost next door to Temple Place, to collect one.</p>
<p>I was met with apologies from one of George&#8217;s team of bakers, Huey. My galette was still in the oven: would I sit down, have a cup of coffee and taste a slice? I eagerly agreed and when there was a pause in the morning rush, Huey took a few moments to talk to me. He started by explaining the reason for the name ‘Populations Bakery’.</p>
<p>‘<em>George uses heritage wheat populations which are mainly ancient heritage grains, Populations-diverse wheat is where you have got lots of different species of wheat, meaning that the soil is in far better condition. If you go to these fields you can see it clearly because rather than weeds being around knee height the crop is up to waist height</em><em>: so much healthier for you but also for the soil and the landscape. </em></p>
<p><em>He uses a lot of stone-milled flour in his pastries: stone-milled flour keeps all the properties of the wheat as opposed to regular sifted milled flour. It means that the pastries have a darker colour because there are more sugars, more nutrients to caramelise, which means more flavour.’</em></p>
<p>Then Huey handed me a box containing a delicate pastry that would not look out of place in a patisserie in Paris.</p>
<p>‘<em>This is the perfect example of what he does: unbelievable technique as well as the provenance of the ingredients. The technique is cross lamination: if you are making a dough for pastries you laminate butter and then the dough. Once that is all done you slice it very thinly and then twist the segments ninety degrees, and then re-laminate it which means you have more texture and better flavour as well.</em></p>
<p><em>Then the clementine: you have candied clementine on top and then clementine creme inside with creme fraiche. The clementine comes from Vincente Todoli,  grown just outside Valencia which has a long history of citrus farms.  He moved away, became an art dealer, travelled the world, fell back in love with citrus and now has created this citrus sanctuary in Valencia. It has the biggest collection of citrus trees from around the world and they have all started cross breeding with each other and making new varieties.  It is like a museum, but for citrus.’</em></p>
<p>I look up Vincente Todoli and discover that he was not just any old art dealer, but one-time director of Tate Modern. His <a href="https://todolicitrusfundacio.org/en/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Todoli Citrus Fondacio</a> preserves rare citrus varieties for future generations.</p>
<p>When I remark on George achievement in scaling up his bakery from his garden shed in Fournier St, Huey says <em>‘I try and get the message through to as many guests as I can, such a variety of people come through these doors.</em>’ The fact that my galette was still in the oven turned out to be a moment of serendipity. I am indebted to Huey for taking the time to share the philosophy which brings producer and baker together in such fine style.</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205945" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C674&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="674" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7618-2-1.jpeg?resize=267%2C300&amp;ssl=1 267w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>George&#8217;s Clementine Creme Fraiche Croissant</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205946" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C536&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="536" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7611-1.jpeg?resize=300%2C268&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>Populations Bakery goods on display at Corner Shop</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205947" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C385&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="385" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/IMG_7612-1.jpeg?resize=300%2C193&amp;ssl=1 300w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205937" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?resize=600%2C900&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="900" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/01/20231025_Populations_Bakery_Spitalfields_Life_380_Patricia_Niven-1.jpeg?resize=200%2C300&amp;ssl=1 200w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><a href="https://www.patricianiven.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Patricia Niven</a>&#8216;s portrait of George Fuest from 2023 in Fournier St</p>
<p><em>You may also like to read about</em></p>
<p><a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/2023/12/01/george-fuest-baker/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><em>George Fuest, Baker</em></a></p>
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		<post-id xmlns="com-wordpress:feed-additions:1">205924</post-id>	</item>
		<item>
		<title>The Smithfield Meat Auction</title>
		<link>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/23/the-smithfield-meat-auction/</link>
					<comments>https://spitalfieldslife.com/2025/12/23/the-smithfield-meat-auction/#comments</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Dec 2025 00:01:47 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://spitalfieldslife.com/?p=205715</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[If you fancy a bracing walk, tickets are available for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on New Year&#8217;s Day. Click here to buy GIFT VOUCHERS for The Gentle Author&#8217;s Tours &#8211; the ideal present for friends and family &#8211; and I will send a handwritten greetings card to the recipients . &#160; Vegetarians look [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205692" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?w=512&amp;ssl=1 512w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/JAN-1.1.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;"><a style="color: #ff0000;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>If you fancy a bracing walk, tickets are available for THE GENTLE AUTHOR’S TOUR OF SPITALFIELDS on New Year&#8217;s Day.</em></a></span></strong></p>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;"><strong><span style="color: #008000;"><a style="color: #008000;" href="https://www.thegentleauthorstours.com/p/booking" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer"><em>Click here to buy GIFT VOUCHERS for The Gentle Author&#8217;s Tours &#8211; the ideal present for friends and family &#8211; and I will send a handwritten greetings card to the recipients</em></a></span></strong></div>
<div id="_mcePaste" style="color: #ffffff;">.</div>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><i>Vegetarians look away now, but carnivorous readers will be delighting to learn that the traditional Smithfield Christmas Eve meat auction takes place again this year, hosted by <a href="https://www.glawrencemeat.co.uk/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">G Lawrence &amp; Co</a> on Grand Avenue in the Central Market from 10am. Below you can read my account of a visit there with the late photographer Colin O&#8217;Brien.</i></p>
<p><a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2012/12/25/at-the-smithfield-christmas-eve-auction/_mg_6209-2/" rel="attachment wp-att-77487"><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-77487" title="_MG_6209" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?resize=600%2C923" alt="" width="600" height="923" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?w=600&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MG_62091.jpg?resize=195%2C300&amp;ssl=1 195w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>The carnivores of London converged upon Smithfield Market, as they do every year for the annual Christmas Eve auction. At ten in the morning, the rainy streets were almost empty yet, as I came through Smithfield, butchers in white overalls were wheeling precarious trolleys top-heavy with meat and fowls over to the site of the auction where an expectant crowd of around a hundred had gathered, anxiously clutching wads of banknotes in one hand and bags to carry off their prospective haul in the other.</p>
<p>Photographer Colin O&#8217;Brien met me there. He grew up half a mile away in Clerkenwell during the nineteen fifties and, although it was his first time at the auction, he remembered his father walking down to Smithfield to get a cheap turkey on Christmas Eve more than sixty years ago. Overhearing this reminiscence, a robust woman standing next to us in the crowd struck up a conversation as a means to relieve the growing tension before the start of the auction which is the highlight of the entire year for many of stalwarts that have been coming for decades.</p>
<p><em>&#8220;You can almost guarantee getting a turkey,&#8221;</em> she reassured us with the authority of experience, revealing she had been in attendance for fifteen successive years. Then, growing visibly excited as a thought came into her mind, <em>&#8220;Last year, I got thirty kilos of sirloin steak for free &#8211; I tossed for it!&#8221;</em>, she confided to us, turning unexpectedly flirtatious. Colin and I stood in silent wonder at her good fortune with meat.<em>&#8220;We start preparing in October by eating all the meat in the freezer,&#8221; </em>she explained, to clarify the situation. <em>&#8220;Last night we had steak,&#8221;</em> she continued, rubbing her hands in gleeful anticipation, <em>&#8220;and steak again tonight.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>Yet our acquaintance was terminated as quickly as it began when the caller appeared in a blood-stained white coat and red tie to introduce the auction. A stubby bullet-headed man, he raised his hands graciously to quell the crowd. <em>&#8220;This is a proper English tradition,&#8221; </em>he announced, <em>&#8220;it has been going on for the last five hundred years. And I&#8217;m going to make sure everybody goes away with something and I&#8217;m here to take your money.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>His words drew an appreciative roar from the crowd as dozens of eager hands were thrust in the air waving banknotes, indicative of the collective blood lust that gripped the assembly. Standing there in the midst of the excitement, I realised that the sound I could hear was an echo. It was a reverberation of the famously uproarious Bartholomew Fair which flourished upon this site from the twelfth century until it was suppressed for public disorder in 1855. Yesterday, the simple word <em>&#8220;Hush!&#8221;</em> from the caller was enough to suppress the mob as he queried, <em>&#8220;What are we going to start with?&#8221;</em></p>
<p>The answer to his question became manifest when several bright pink loins of pork appeared as if by magic in the hatch beside him, held by butchers beneath, and dancing jauntily above the heads of the delighted audience like hand puppets. These English loins of pork were soon dispatched into the crowd at twenty pounds each as the curtain warmer to the pantomime that was to come, followed by joints of beef for a tenner preceding the star attraction of day &#8211; the turkeys! &#8211; greeted with festive cheers by the hungry revellers. <em>&#8220;Mind your heads, turkeys coming over&#8230;&#8221; </em>warned the butcher as the turkeys in their red wrappers set out crowd-surfing to their grateful prospective owners as the cash was passed hand to hand back to the stand.</p>
<p>It would not be an understatement to say that mass hysteria had overtaken the crowd, yet there was another element to add to the chaos of the day. As the crowd had enlarged, it spilled over into the road with cars and vans weaving their through the overwrought gathering. <em>&#8220;I love coming for the adventure of it,&#8221; </em>declared one gentleman with hair awry, embracing a side of beef protectively as if it was the love of his life, <em>&#8220;Everyone helps one another out here. You pass the money over and there&#8217;s no pickpockets.&#8221;</em></p>
<p>After the turkeys came the geese, the loins of lamb, the ribs of beef, the pork bellies, the racks of lamb, the fillet steaks and the green gammon to complete the bill of fare. As the energy rose, butchers began to throw pieces of red meat into the crowd to be caught by their purchasers and it was surreal to watch legs of lamb and even suckling pigs go flying into the tumultuous mass of people. Finally, came tossing for meat where customers had the chance of getting their steaks for free if they guessed the toss correctly, and each winning guess was greeted with an exultant cheer because by then the butchers and the crowd were as one, fellow participants in a boisterous party game.</p>
<p>Just ninety minutes after it began, the auction wrapped up, leaving the crowd to consolidate their proud purchases, tucking the meat and fowls up snugly in suitcases and backpacks to keep them safe until they could be stowed away in the freezer at home. In the disorder, I saw piles of bloody meat stacked on the muddy pavement where people were tripping over them. Yet a sense of fulfilment prevailed, everyone had stocked up for another year &#8211; their carnivorous appetites satiated &#8211; and they were going home to eat meat.</p>
<p>As I walked back through the narrow City streets, I contemplated the spectacle of the morning. It resembled a Bacchanale or some ancient pagan celebration in which people  were liberated to pursue their animal instincts. But then I realised that my thinking was too complicated &#8211; it was Christmas I had witnessed.</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p>&nbsp;</p>
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<p style="text-align: right;">Photographs copyright © Estate of Colin O&#8217;Brien</p>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[the gentle author]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Dec 2025 00:01:25 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary Life]]></category>
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					<description><![CDATA[&#160; I am delighted to publish these extracts from BUG WOMAN LONDON – a graduate of my blog writing course who has been publishing posts online for over ten years now. The author set out to explore our relationship with the natural world in the urban environment, yet her subject matter has expanded in all [&#8230;]]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-205526" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?resize=600%2C750&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="750" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?w=486&amp;ssl=1 486w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/BLOG-1.1-3.jpeg?resize=240%2C300&amp;ssl=1 240w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">I am delighted to publish these extracts from <a style="color: #000080;" href="https://bugwomanlondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">BUG WOMAN LONDON</a> – a graduate of my blog writing course who has been publishing posts online for over ten years now. The author set out to explore our relationship with the natural world in the urban environment, yet her subject matter has expanded in all kinds of ways. <em><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://bugwomanlondon.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Follow BUG WOMAN LONDON, because a community is more than just people</a></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">I am now taking bookings for the next writing course, <strong><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">HOW TO WRITE A BLOG THAT PEOPLE WILL WANT TO READ</a></strong> on February 7th &amp; 8th. </span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;">Come to Spitalfields and spend a weekend with me in an eighteenth century weaver’s house in Fournier St, enjoy delicious lunches and eat cakes baked to historic recipes, and learn how to write your own blog. <em><a style="color: #000080;" href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/the-course-2/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Click here for details</a></em></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000080;"><em>If you are graduate of my course and you would like me to feature your blog, please drop me a line.</em></span></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205535" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=600%2C397&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="397" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=600%2C397&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?resize=300%2C199&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Brussels_Sprouts_ready_for_harvest.jpeg?w=625&amp;ssl=1 625w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
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<p><strong>UPON THE NATURE OF BRUSSEL SPROUTS</strong></p>
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<p>After my mother died, I found her hairbrush with some of her long, silver hair still in it and I found myself thinking ‘maybe someone could clone Mum from the DNA in her hair’. I know that this is ridiculous but the thought was there. And I have her hairbrush, just in case.</p>
<p>More helpful was what happened to me earlier that morning. I was getting ready to go out and telling my husband that I probably would not write a blog this week because, after all, my mother had just died, and everyone would understand. Then I heard her voice in my head, as clearly as if she was standing next to me. ‘Don’t you dare not do the blog! Tell them about the Brussels sprouts’.</p>
<p>And so, here is my take on that most divisive of vegetables the Brussels sprout, courtesy of my mother.  Every Christmas we had Brussels sprouts with our turkey. I quite liked those sulphurous, squidgy little crucifers, and Dad positively loved them. They were usually a little watery and yellow, and I maintained that this was because Mum insisted on making a cross in the bottom of each one which allowed the cooking water to penetrate right into the heart of the vegetable. I declared that this was not necessary but somehow, even when I hosted Christmas in my own house, Mum managed to get hold of the Brussels and a sharp knife and the rest was history.</p>
<p>In fact last year, when we had Christmas in Dorset because Mum and Dad were getting over a chest infection and were too sick to travel, the only thing that Mum had the energy to do was to sabotage the Brussels sprouts. By this point I was only too happy to let Mum have her way.</p>
<p>When we eat sprouts, we are actually eating the buds of the plant. The plant is, of course, a member of the cabbage family (<em>Brassicaceae</em>) which accounts for those hints of sulphur if the sprouts are overcooked. It probably originally came from the Mediterranean and forerunners of our sprouts may well have been grown in Ancient Rome. The plant was known in Northern Europe from about the fifth century and was said to have been grown in Belgium from about the thirteenth century, hence the name.</p>
<p>Each stalk can bear a harvest of up to 3lbs of sprouts, which can be picked all at the same time or over a period of weeks. The sprouts are normally ready for harvesting between ninety and one hundred and eighty days after planting, and are considered sweetest after a frost. They are a traditional winter vegetable, though I would be willing to bet that a lot of people have them with their Christmas dinner and at no other time. Personally, my winter crucifer of choice would be a fine green cabbage but that is an absolute no-no in our household.</p>
<p>There are some new varieties of Brussels sprout about, including a rather neat looking red and green flouncy variety that cropped up last year, and red Brussel sprouts have been around for a while . The red ones are a hybrid between red cabbage and the traditional Brussels sprout. Most eaten in this country are home grown, with the ones in my local grocer coming from Lincolnshire. Sprouts need temperatures no higher than seventy-five degrees and are also fairly thirsty plants, so the climate in East Anglia is ideal. Like all members of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts are very good for you, packed full of vitamins and minerals and fibre.</p>
<p>Of course, the Brussels sprout lends itself to all sorts of other shenanigans not related to its health-giving  properties. In 2014, adventurer Stuart Kettell pushed a Brussels sprout all the way to the top of Mount Snowdon with his nose to raise money for MacMillan Cancer Support. He needed twenty-two sprouts, it took him four days, and he lost all the skin on his knees but he raised £5000. He had previously practiced by pushing a Brussels sprout around his garden and chose large sprouts so that they would not get stuck in any crevices on Snowdon. Apparently he had previously raised money by walking every street in Coventry on stilts and by running in a giant hamster wheel. Linus Urbanec from Sweden holds the world Brussels sprout consumption record, eating thirty-one sprouts in a minute in November 2008. I assume they were cooked.</p>
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<p><img data-recalc-dims="1" loading="lazy" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-205536" src="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=600%2C450&#038;ssl=1" alt="" width="600" height="450" srcset="https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=600%2C450&amp;ssl=1 600w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?resize=300%2C225&amp;ssl=1 300w, https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/IMG_6246.jpeg?w=625&amp;ssl=1 625w" sizes="auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px" /></p>
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